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Title: Harness making
Author: Hasluck, Paul N. (Paul Nooncree)
Language: English
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_WORK” HANDBOOKS_
HARNESS MAKING
HARNESS
MAKING
_WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS_
EDITED BY
PAUL N. HASLUCK
EDITOR OF “WORK” AND “BUILDING WORLD,”
AUTHOR OF “HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS,” ETC. ETC.
[Illustration: Decoration]
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED
_LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE. MCMIV_
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
PREFACE.
This Handbook contains, in form convenient for everyday use, a
comprehensive digest of the knowledge of harness making, scattered
over more than twenty thousand columns of WORK—one of the weekly
journals it is my fortune to edit—and supplies concise information on
the details of the subjects of which it treats.
In preparing for publication in book form the mass of relevant matter
contained in the volumes of WORK, much had to be arranged anew.
However, it may be stated that the greater part of the contents of
this Handbook consists substantially of matter contributed by a
working harness maker.
Readers who may desire additional information respecting special
details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions
on kindred subjects, should address a question to WORK, so that it
may be answered in the columns of that journal.
P. N. HASLUCK.
_La Belle Sauvage, London,
May, 1904._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I.—Harness-makers’ Tools 9
II.—Harness-makers’ Materials 30
III.—Strap Making and Stitching 49
IV.—Looping 57
V.—Cart Harness 62
VI.—Cart Collars 75
VII.—Cart Saddles, Reins, etc. 86
VIII.—Fore Gear and Leader Harness 101
IX.—Plough Harness 107
X.—Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture 111
XI.—Van and Cab Harness 127
Index 157
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FIG. PAGE
1.—Paring Knife 10
2.—Hand Knife 10
3.—Round Knife 11
4.—Head Knife 11
5.—Cutting Gauge 11
6.—Plough or Plough Gauge 12
7.—Side Elevation of Plough Gauge 12
8.—End Elevation of Plough Gauge 13
9.—Slitting Machine 13
10.—Spokeshave 13
11.—Edge Trimmer 14
12.—Washer Cutter 14
13.—Round Punch 15
14.—Oval Punch 15
15.—Buckle Tongue, or Crew, Punch 15
16.—Girth Chape Punch 15
17.—Brace End Punch 15
18.—Forepart of Brace End Punch 16
19.—Hand Punch 16
20.—Hand Punch Nipple 16
21 to 24.—Scalloping Irons 16
25, 26.—Rosette Punches 17
27.—Lead Piece 17
28.—Wooden Mallet 17
29, 30.—Useful Wooden Mallets 17
31.—Saddlers’ Hammer 18
32.—Pricking-iron 18
33, 34.—Wheel Prickers 18
35.—Screw-race 19
36.—Single Crease 19
37.—Screw-crease 19
38.—Checker 20
39.—Beveller 20
40.—Compasses 20
41.—Race Compasses 20
42, 43.—Awl Blades 21
44.—Sewing Awl 22
45.—Bent Awl 22
46, 47.—Harness Needles 23
48, 49.—Seat Awls 23
50, 51.—Hand-irons or Palm-irons 24
52.—Clamp or Clams 24
53.—Clamp for Sewing Shaft-tugs 25
54.—Home-made Clamp Holding Work 25
55.—Jaws of Clamp 25
56.—Nail-claw 26
57.—Cutting Pliers 26
58.—Iron Collar Rod 27
59.—Steel Seat-iron 27
60.—Loop-stick 28
61.—Rubber 28
62.—Straining Fork 29
63.—Cutting up Hide 39
64.—Plain Waist Belt 53
65.—Fancy Waist Belt 54
66.—Waist Belt with Pockets 55
67.—Box Creased Loop 58
68.—Box Creased Loop 59
69, 70.—Box Creased Loops 60
71.—Horse in Cart Gear 62
72 to 75.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles 63
76, 77.—Brass Face-pieces 64
78.—Brass Face-piece 65
79.—Bells and Brush 65
80, 81.—Brass Hame Plates 65
82.—Brass Oval 66
82 to 85.—Brass Octagons 66
86.—Brass Heart 66
87, 88.—Brass Stars 66
89, 90.—Brass Hame Knobs 67
91, 92.—Brass Swing 67
93.—Ear-piece 67
94.—Corner-piece 67
95.—Cart Collar without Side-piece 75
96.—Cart Collar Lining 79
97.—Cart Collar Side-piece 83
98.—Cart Saddle Tree 87
99.—Cart Saddle Panel 89
100.—Cart Saddle Hind Housing 93
101.—Cart Saddle Front Housing 95
102.—Set of Leader Gear 103
103, 104.—Hip-strap Chains 105
105.—Plough Back-band Hook 109
106 to 108.—Pelham Bits 111
109.—Hackney Bit 111
110.—Bridoon 111
111, 112.—Ladies’ Horse Bits 112
113.—Pelham Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth 112
114.—Hackney Bit with Indiarubber Mouth 112
115.—Gig Snaffle 113
116.—Wilson Snaffle 113
117.—Liverpool Bit 113
118.—Globe Check Curb Bit 113
119.—One-horn Bridoon Bit 113
120.—One-horned Bridoon with Indiarubber Mouth 114
121.—Gig Curb Bit 114
122.—Buxton Bit 114
123.—Swivelled Bridoon Bit 114
124, 125.—Breaking Bits 114
126.—Breaking Bit 115
127.—Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth 115
128, 129.—Exercising Bits 115
130.—Show or Stallion Bit 115
131.—Double-mouthed Snaffle 116
132.—Ordinary Spur 116
133.—Officer’s Regulation Spur 116
134.—Dress Spur 116
135.—Lady’s Spur 117
136.—Trousers Spur 117
137.—Solid Stirrup 117
138.—Open Button Stirrup 117
139.—Waving Bar Stirrup 117
140.—Lady’s Stirrup 117
141.—Stirrup Slipper 118
142.—Safety Stirrup 118
143.—Flat Side Wire Front Buckle 118
144.—Front Bevelled Buckle 118
145.—Bevelled Flat Top Buckle 118
146.—West End Bevelled Flat Top Buckle 118
147.—Spade Buckle 119
148.—Square Wire Buckle 119
149.—Chatham Buckle 119
150.—Flat Top Turned-up Buckle 119
151.—Fluted Buckle 119
152.—Swelled Front Bent-leg Buckle 119
153.—Flat Top Cab Buckle 119
154.—West End Whole Buckle 119
155.—Chased Buckle 120
156.—Melbourne Buckle 120
157.—Square Buckle 120
158, 159.—Covered Buckles 120
160, 161.—Part-covered Buckles 120
162.—Shaft Tug Buckle 121
163.—Burgess’s Buckle 121
164.—Ball Terret 121
165.—Plain Terret 121
166 to 168.—Ball Terrets 122
169 to 172.—Hames 123
173, 174.—Bearing-rein Swivels 123
175, 176.—Roller Buckles 124
177.—Hame Clip 125
178, 179.—Breeching Dees 125
180, 181.—Winkers 129
182.—Van Saddle 131
183.—Van Saddle Flap 131
184.—Van Saddle Panel 131
185.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 140
186.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 141
187.—Chain and Leather Gig Front 143
188.—Crupper Dock 147
189.—Breeching, etc. 147
190.—Back-band 147
191.—Shaft Tugs 147
192.—Four-wheeled Cab Saddle 153
193.—Cab Saddle Tree 153
194.—Hansom Cab Saddle 154
195, 196.—Rein Stops 154
197.—Hansom Cab Harness 155
HARNESS MAKING.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS-MAKERS’ TOOLS.
Harness making and repairing is a branch of leather work that can
often be undertaken profitably by many persons, and the information
given in the following pages has been adapted specially to the
amateur’s requirements. Doubtless the readers of a companion
handbook on “Boot Making and Mending” have wished to pursue further
the subject of leather working, and will take up the making and
repairing of harness with pleasure. Aspirants to more highly skilled
work will find “Practical Saddlery” of the greatest possible use to
them, whilst readers less ambitious may look to “Leather Working”
for instructions on making a number of articles, such as bags,
portmanteaus, and cases, for which there is general employment and a
consequently great demand. The two books just mentioned are issued
uniform in style and price with the present work.
In this handbook it is proposed to treat the subject of harness
making so fully that anyone possessing tact and sense can make a set
of harness from the instructions given, or, at any rate, keep harness
in good repair. A start will be made by describing the tools that
will be necessary. In the list given below, every essential tool is
specified and its uses explained. The tools are very numerous, but
the amateur may dispense with many of them; for though all of them
may have to be employed by a tradesman in turning out finished work,
an amateur may be content with a much smaller outfit. The tools are
not bulky, however, and all that are necessary for making a double
set of harness could be carried in a small handbag, excepting, of
course, the mallet and collar-iron.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Paring Knife.]
The tools are here classified as (_a_) cutting tools, (_b_) punches
and tools of percussion, (_c_) tools for setting out, marking, and
ornamenting, (_d_) awls and needles for perforating, (_e_) tools for
gripping and holding work, (_f_) tools used in stuffing collars and
saddles, and (_g_) miscellaneous. It may be remarked that saddlers’
tools, as well as harness-makers’, are included in this chapter.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.—Hand Knife.]
With regard to cutting tools, a paring knife (Fig. 1) and a hand
knife (Fig. 2) are used for cutting thread, paring down, and
splicing, and are otherwise generally useful. The round knife (Fig.
3) is used by saddlers instead of the hand knife for cutting,
splicing, and thinning leather; they can be had in different sizes,
suited to light and heavy work; their chief use is in thinning the
edges of leather, and for giving a rounded appearance to lined
straps, such as nosebands, traces, breeching straps, etc. The head
knife (Fig. 4) is used for cutting the holes for buckle tongues and
cutting any circular shapes or holes in leather.
Fig. 5 is a cutting gauge made in iron or wood. A knife passes
through the ruled stem, and is held firmly by a screw. It is adjusted
by shifting the block, which is also held by a screw.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Round Knife.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.—Head Knife.]
A plough or plough gauge (Fig. 6) is very useful when much strap or
belt cutting has to be done. By means of it, straps can be cut from ¾
in. to 4 in. wide, by sliding the knife backwards or forwards along
the marked gauge. Straps can be cut much more quickly by this machine
than by hand, and it quite dispenses with the use of the round knife
and compasses. A slightly different plough is illustrated by Figs. 7
and 8.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.—Cutting Gauge.]
The slitting machine (Fig. 9) is useful for thinning straps which
are to be drawn down to half or one-third their thickness. A
saddler’s spokeshave (Fig. 10) may be used for the same purpose as
the slitting machine. It is suitable for thinning light straps, and
not only takes less time to adjust, but does the work more quickly
than the slitter. The chief use of the spokeshave, however, is to
trim and finish traces, backbands, etc. After a trace or backband or
other lined strap is stitched, the uneven edges require to be rounded
and smoothed; this is done by clamping the strap between the knees,
holding the clamp a little straighter than when stitching, and using
the spokeshave.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.—Plough, or Plough Gauge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.—Side Elevation of Plough Gauge.]
Edge trimmers (Fig. 11) are for running along the edges of straps
of all kinds to take off the sharp edge and sides before dyeing. It
is made in sizes 1 to 8. Sharp and strong scissors are necessary for
cutting linings, basil, and other kinds of thin leather. The washer
cutter (Fig. 12) is used for cutting round pieces of leather by rule;
the knife can be set at all sizes up to 6 in.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.—End Elevation of Plough Gauge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9.—Slitting Machine.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10.—Spokeshave]
[Illustration: Fig. 11.—Edge Trimmer.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12.—Washer Cutter.]
Punches are indispensable, and half a dozen different sizes each of
round (Fig. 13) and oval (Fig. 14) tools should be obtained. Round
punches are made in sizes from No. 1, suitable only for very narrow
straps, to No. 16, which make a hole ⅝ in. in diameter. Oval punches
are numbered, according to size, from 17 to 32, and make a hole of
similar dimensions to the round punches just mentioned. Punches of
intermediate sizes, Nos. 3 to 13 or Nos. 19 to 29, will, however,
answer for most repairing jobs. The ovals are preferable in most
cases, as they make holes in the straps large enough for the purpose
without impairing the strength so much as the round ones do. Buckle
tongue punches, or crew punches (Fig. 15) are handy; these are made
in three or four sizes, and they run from No. 33 to No. 43, and are
used for making the holes that take the heel of the buckle tongue
when the buckle is placed in its chape. This hole may also be made
by punching two holes at a suitable distance from each other, and
cutting between them, thus [Illustration: symbol for cutting between
two holes] The strap has to be bent and a hole cut through the bent
end, the piece between the holes for the tongue of the buckle being
afterwards cut out. The punches shown by Figs. 16 to 18 may be used
to cut saddle girth chapes, brace ends, etc.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.—Round Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 14.—Oval Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15.—Buckle Tongue or Crew, Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.—Girth Chape Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 17.—Brace End Punch.]
A hand punch (Fig. 19) is useful for punching holes in small straps,
or for making holes in harness whilst it is worn by a horse. Saddlers
are sometimes called upon to do this, and without a hand punch the
work is awkward, necessitating the use of mallet, punch, and lead.
Fig. 20 shows a loose nipple which can be obtained in various sizes
to screw in the handle.
[Illustration: Fig. 18.—Forepart of Brace End Punch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 19.—Hand Punch.]
Scalloping irons (Figs. 21 to 24), vandyke, round, straight, and
half-moon are used for cutting any fancy or ornamental designs in
American cloth or fancy leather. Rosette punches (Figs. 25 and 26) in
sets of three or four, are useful for making rosettes in patent fancy
coloured leather or for cutting out round scalloped edge pieces.
[Illustration: Fig. 20.—Hand Punch Nipple.]
[Illustration: Figs. 21 to 24.—Scalloping Irons.]
A lead piece (Fig. 27) for punching on should be from 6 in. to 8 in.
square, and about 1½ in. thick. Lead is used because, being soft, it
does not damage the points of the punches; but if lead is not handy,
a block of wood 5 in. or 6 in. thick will do, if set up on end so
that the punch does not cut across the grain.
[Illustration:
Fig. 25.
Fig. 26.
Figs. 25 and 26.—Rosette Punches.]
[Illustration: Fig. 27.—Lead Piece.]
[Illustration: Fig. 28.—Wooden Mallet.]
A wooden mallet (Fig. 28) for punching is also required, and a
lignum-vitæ round mallet to work the forewales and shape the stuffed
bodies of collars. Other useful mallets are shown by Figs. 29 and
30. Two hammers are necessary, one fairly light—the proper saddler’s
hammer (Fig. 31)—and the other a heavy one for heavy work.
[Illustration: Figs. 29 and 30.—Useful Wooden Mallets.]
Tools for marking and ornamenting leather may now be mentioned. Fig.
32 shows a tool used in stamping the lines preparatory to stitching.
These tools vary in width from three teeth, which are used only for
round points and scalloped work, to twenty-four teeth for straight
lines. The teeth on each iron are cut to mark a certain number of
stitches per inch, from six to sixteen, and these teeth are not at
right angles to the flat part of the iron, but are cut on the slant
as at B, thus making an impression on the leather which acts as a
guide in forming a stitch perfect in shape as well as in length.
[Illustration:
Fig. 31.
Fig. 32.
Fig. 33.
Fig. 34.
Fig. 31.—Saddlers’ Hammer. Fig. 32.—Pricking-iron.
Figs. 33 and 34.—Wheel Prickers.]
Wheel prickers (Figs. 33 and 34) are used in sizes from seven or
eight to sixteen teeth to the inch. They are round pieces of steel,
having serrated edges and a hole in the centre, and are provided with
a handle in which they are adjusted with a pin and nut. A change of
stitch, say from fine to coarse, necessitates a change of wheel. The
wheel is run along the stitching line, and in the holes made by the
pricks the stitches are run.
The screw-race (Fig. 35) is a tool for grooving lines in any part
where it is desired to sink the stitches below the surface. It is
easily adjustable.
[Illustration: Fig. 35.
Fig. 35.—Screw-race.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36.
Fig. 36.—Single Crease.]
[Illustration: Fig. 37.
Fig. 37.—Screw-crease.]
Single creases (Fig. 36) are for marking in places where neither the
screw-crease nor the compasses can go, as for instance, in the centre
of a large piece of leather or wide strap. They are also used to mark
thick and heavy loops, for which purpose they are heated before using.
Two screw-creases must be obtained, one light and the other heavy
(Fig. 37); one is used for light lines and the other for heavy
lines along the edge of the leather, and for marking the lines for
stitching. By means of the screw, the points are closed or opened,
thus bringing the line nearer to the edge of the work or taking it
farther away.
[Illustration: Fig. 38.—Checker.]
[Illustration: Fig. 39.—Beveller.]
[Illustration: Fig. 40.—Compasses.]
[Illustration: Fig. 41.—Race Compasses.]
Checkers (Fig. 38) are small double creases with two parallel edges,
one of which marks the small ornamental checked lines on loops; one
edge is run along the last line done, which thus serves as a guide
for keeping the lines parallel. Sizes 1, 2, and 3 will be sufficient.
A brass foot-rule, of course, must be obtained.
[Illustration: Fig. 42.—Awl Blade.]
Bevellers (Fig. 39) resemble the single creases, but are much thicker
and bevelled; they are used for the sole purpose of creasing or
marking loops on portions that require ornamenting. In use, they are
heated and then made to form a deep, wide groove on the loop, such as
the straight cross lines on the front, and any fancy shapes worked on
the outside of the loop.
Compasses (Fig. 40) should have a screw and regulator so that they
may be set at different widths. They are used for marking the widths
of straps to be cut and for marking distances, etc.
Race compasses (Fig. 41) are for the purpose of cutting a slight
groove or line along the edges; they just take off a narrow strip of
the grain and leave a faint line, which is blacked with the edges.
It answers the same purpose as the line cut with the screw-crease,
either ornamenting the straps or marking the line for the stitches.
[Illustration: Fig. 43.—Awl Blade.]
With regard to perforating tools, a few awl blades (Figs. 42 and 43)
and hafts may be obtained. Stitching blades vary in sizes from 1¼ in.
to 3 in. long. Hold the blade fast in the vice, and with a few sharp
blows of a light hammer drive the haft or handle on the awl, which
is then ready for use. Fig. 44 shows a sewing awl. Strong thick awls
will be required for coarse work, to stitch, say, a thread of seven,
eight, or even more cords of hemp in one thread, and the thickness of
the awl should diminish until the fine awl for stitching fine silk
and cotton threads is obtained. Bent awls (Fig. 45) in one or two
sizes, such as shoemakers use, are employed for putting in wire in
saddle flabs for fastening the panel; they have other uses also.
[Illustration: Fig. 44.—Sewing Awl.]
Half a dozen packets of harness needles (Figs. 46 and 47), varying in
size from No. 2 to No. 6, will be necessary; the lowest number is the
coarsest. These needles are for wax thread and all other stitching
threads. Needles will also be required as follows:—2-in. or 3-in.
needles for quilting saddle panels, etc.; pointed needles for thimble
work in stitching linings to saddle panels, etc.; collar needles of
different sizes, half-moon shape and straight with bent points; these
are from 3 in. to 6 in. long, the longest being for heavy cart collar
work and the lightest for patent and light harness collars.
[Illustration: Fig. 45.—Bent Awl.]
The seat-awl (two shapes are shown by Figs. 48 and 49) is for easing
and levelling stuffing in collars, saddles, and other stuffed or
padded articles. It is also useful for levelling thread; this is
turned once around the round awl, which is then drawn sharply
backwards and forwards, the lumps thus being taken out of the thread.
[Illustration:
Fig. 46. Fig. 47. Fig. 48. Fig. 49.
Figs. 46 and 47.—Harness Needles. Figs. 48 and 49.—Seat Awls.]
The hand-or palm-iron (Figs. 50 and 51) is a kind of thimble used on
the palm of the hand when driving collar needles through leather. A
shallow honeycombed well is formed in the hand part, which prevents
the needle from slipping, however great the pressure may be; and at
the end or point a hole is bored lengthwise, about ⅛ in. deep, to
take the eve end of the needle and force it closer to the leather
when the broad part of the iron is not available.
[Illustration:
Fig. 50. Fig. 51.
Figs. 50 and 51.—Hand-irons or Palm-irons.]
[Illustration: Fig. 52.—Clamp or Clams.]
[Illustration: Fig. 53.—Clamp for Sewing Shaft-tugs.]
[Illustration: Fig. 54.—Home-made Clamp Holding Work.]
[Illustration: Fig. 55.—Jaws of Clamp.]
Holding and gripping tools include the clamp, known also as the pair
of clams. Fig. 52 shows the ordinary type, while Fig. 53 is the kind
used in sewing shaft-tugs. Held between the knees in a slightly
slanting position, the clamp keeps the work firmly in position while
the stitching is being done; it lies against the left knee, and by
throwing the right leg over it the work is held fast between the
gripping points. Note that the saddler has the clamp between his
legs in a slanting direction, and not as the shoemaker, who has them
straight up, almost against his nose, when bending over the work. One
reason for this is that the work done by the saddler with the clamp
requires more force to press the awl through than the work done by
the shoemaker; consequently the saddler must set his clamp against
some firm object (his left knee) so that it will not yield under the
pressure. Another reason is that the saddler stitches with needles,
while the shoemaker uses bristles, and must see the hole made by the
awl, as the bristles cannot force their way, as the needles, to some
slight extent, are able to do. The saddler feels for the hole with
his needle and thus becomes accustomed to finding the hole without
looking, and to getting his needle to follow the awl as the latter is
drawn back; in fact, the needle is inserted in the unseen lower side
with more accuracy than on the top side, which is in view.
[Illustration: Fig. 56.—Nail-claw.]
[Illustration: Fig. 57.—Cutting Pliers.]
A clamp can be made easily by the worker at home. The parts A and
B (Fig. 54) are made from two oak cask or barrel staves. The lower
portion C may be a sound piece of white deal, 20 in. by 3 in. by 3
in., and the only other requisites will be eight stout 2¼ in. screws.
The staves should be cut 2 ft. long by at least 3 in. wide, the
points of greatest convexity being in the centre; the more bent the
staves are the more useful the clamp will be. Clean up the outside
with a spokeshave, leaving one end the full thickness of the staves,
or about 1 in., and thinning off gradually to about ¾ in. towards
the upper ends, which are to form the jaws of the clamp (Fig. 55).
Round off the outer corners, and clean up the inside surface flat,
smoothing both sides with glass-paper. The dovetail-shaped tenon
in the lower part C, should be at least 6 in. in length, and will
require careful cutting, the depth of the shoulders and the width
of the upper end depending upon the amount of curve in the staves
which are to be attached to it. It should be borne in mind that the
object is to embed the staves so firmly that their upper ends, or
the jaws of the tool, press tightly together. With this object the
tenon should be cut, so that energetic screwing will be required to
bring the staves home into their final position. The screws should be
countersunk flush with the surface of the staves.
[Illustration: Fig. 58.—Iron Collar Rod.]
A small wrench and a medium-sized vice will often be found useful.
A nail-claw (Fig. 56) is required for pulling out the nails used to
keep the work together. Pincers, nippers, and cutting pliers (Fig.
57) will be found useful as occasion demands.
An iron collar rod (Fig. 58) for stuffing the forewale must be
obtained, as well as a hardwood stick, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, and
having a =V=-shaped point, for filling the body of collars with
straw; the stick is flat towards the =V=-shaped end, and round at the
other end, the corners being rounded off smooth.
[Illustration: Fig. 59.—Steel Seat-iron.]
A steel seat-iron (Fig. 59) is used in putting flock into cart-saddle
panels, but chiefly for stuffing the peak of riding saddles, as the
tool bends nicely with the shape of the saddle without tearing the
cover or stretching it immoderately.
Loop-sticks (Fig. 60) are made of hardwood in various sizes to suit
the width and thickness of the straps. A set made of hard boxwood or
iron, varying in width from ½ in. to 2 in., and in thickness from ⅛
in. to ½ in., should be obtained. Less room is wanted in shaping a
loop for a single strap than when a strap of two or three thicknesses
is required to go through a loop. (A loop is the piece of leather
placed crosswise on straps having buckles, and it keeps the point
of the strap in its proper position.) A loop stick must be obtained
that is thick enough and wide enough for a trace 1¾ in. wide and
proportionately thick; there must also be one sufficiently thin and
narrow for a ½-in. strap; loop sticks for intermediate sizes are
also necessary, and it is as well to get two each of some of the
sizes. For instance, those things that are done in pairs, such as
bridle-cheeks, shaft-tugs, etc., will require the use of two loop
sticks of the same size. Good loop sticks are essential to turning
out good work.
[Illustration: Fig. 60.—Loop-stick.]
[Illustration: Fig. 61.—Rubber.]
A rubber (Fig. 61) made of a piece of hard, close-grained wood or
of thick glass about 6 in. square and =V=-shaped on one edge is
used to smooth down two edges whipped together, or for flattening
and levelling any two thin substances, such as leather and linen
pasted or stitched together; it is also used to rub stitching on
the underside of traces or any double straps, and for rubbing or
stretching damped leather.
The straining fork (Fig. 62) is sometimes employed for stretching wet
webbing or leather, one end of which is nailed down and the other end
strained with the fork and secured until dry.
[Illustration: Fig. 62.—Straining Fork.]
A coarse file or rasp may be necessary to file down wooden and cane
driving whip-stocks, etc., when putting on thongs and in splicing
whip-sticks to level the splice so that both of the parts may lie
flat against each other. A small round file and a small square one,
as well as two or three coarser ones, are sure to come in handy.
Amongst their uses will be the filing down of the brass or ironwork
of saddles, and the making of holes in saddle trees, etc.
CHAPTER II.
HARNESS-MAKERS’ MATERIALS.
It is now proposed to give some particulars of the materials used in
saddle and harness making.
The threads used in the trade are many, but the principal is waxed
thread, made by the saddler himself, and used to stitch harness and
straps together. By waxed thread is generally meant thread dressed
with black or cobbler’s wax, but the saddler also uses thread dressed
with beeswax and sometimes with white wax. The linen thread used is
in various colours, yellow, red, black, white, etc., and is on reels
or in hanks. Silk threads of the same colours are used for best work,
such as stitching best brown saddlery, riding bridles, martingales,
etc. The white and black linen thread is used for whippingin lining
in panels of both gig and riding saddles, and for stitching saving
pads in any thin material for light work, and also in stitching
along with the red and yellow thread in making riding bridles, and
all kinds of brown light work. The hemp for wax threads, of various
strengths, is to be had in black, yellow, green, and white. The white
hemp is considered the best and toughest, though the coloured perhaps
is a little cheaper. Fine No. 15 and coarse No. 3 will probably meet
all requirements.
Beeswax, as already hinted, is used to make threads for work that is
light as regards both colour and substance. Single linen threads of
all colours are, before using, rubbed with beeswax, which does not
deaden the colour. White wax is sometimes made for brown harness by
melting together white-lead and white wax; instead of the latter,
the wax from best white wax candles may be used. If the wax when
cold is too soft, add more white wax; if too hard, add a little more
white-lead.
Black cobbler’s wax is made by melting together ½ lb. each of resin
and pitch. When thoroughly mixed, remove the pan from the fire, and
add one pennyworth of boiled linseed oil, or less, according to the
weather. Thoroughly mix this with the other ingredients and then
pour a little into cold water to test it. Let it remain for a minute
and then remove it from the water, taking care to well wet the hands
in doing so, or in the subsequent working it will stick to them.
If it cracks when working it in the hands, it is too hard; if it
pulls out properly and sticks well together, it is all right. Put
it back into the water, and pour in the rest of the stuff after it.
It is important that the piece tested be not put back into the pan
containing the rest of the wax, as the water absorbed will evaporate
and make the hot wax frothy and spongy. Gather the wax together in
the water without loss of time, remove it with wet hands, and pull it
fast hand over hand as quickly as possible till it attains a light
golden colour. Pull off a small piece with the hands, or cut it off
with wet scissors, and throw it into the water. If it floats on the
surface it has been pulled enough; if it sinks, the wax requires
more working. If not pulled enough, the wax is brittle, becoming
tougher and better the more it is pulled. In making the wax it must
be remembered that only half as much oil is required in summer as in
winter. The colder the atmosphere the more oil will be required.
The quantities of ingredients mentioned will make about thirty handy
lumps of wax, and as a rule a pennyworth of oil is enough in the
coldest weather. If, after working it, the wax is too hard, melt it
again and add more oil; if too soft, add more pitch and resin. Hard
wax may be used in a way that avoids re-melting. The thread, previous
to being dressed with the wax, is rubbed with tallow, over which
the wax will run smooth. Cut the wax into lumps the size of a large
pigeon’s egg and keep it in water.
Directions will now be given for making wax threads. So that the hemp
may be kept tidy and not mixed up with the tools on the bench, place
the ball of hemp in a wooden or tin box having a small hole in the
centre of its lid, through which the hemp can pass. Take hold of the
end of the hemp with the left hand, twist it once around the fingers,
and draw it through the right hand. When a sufficient quantity has
been drawn out, break the thread by rubbing it on the knee to take
out the twist, at the same time giving it a sharp pull; the strands
thus loosen and break in a ragged end. Throw the hemp over a nail or
hook in the bench, pull it until the sides are each about 2 ft. 9 in.
long, keep the hemp tight with the end in the left hand, and with
the right hand spin or rub it on the knee as before to untwist the
strands; then pull it sharply to break it. The more ragged the broken
end is the better will be the point on the finished thread. There
is now one strand 2 ft. 9 in. long and pointed; with the right hand
put the points together in the left hand, and draw the hemp again
over the hook, spinning and cutting it as before, and repeating the
operation till the required number of strands is obtained. The number
varies with the required strength, from three to sixteen.
In putting the ends of the cut hemp together, do not leave them
exactly the same length; by leaving some shorter than others a
nice pointed thread is obtained at the finish, fine enough to go
into the eye of a needle. When the required number of strands is
obtained, take a ball of wax in the right hand, and hold both ends
of the thread separately in the left; draw the wax over the points
two or three times to keep the ends together, taking care to keep
the ends on the left of the hook twisted round the left hand, and
holding them tight with the third and fourth fingers, leaving the
thumb and forefinger loose to manipulate the other end in the process
of twisting; the wax on the ends or points is a great help at this
stage. Having an end between the thumb and finger of the left hand,
set it on the knee, and spin or twist it as when cutting the hemp.
The knee should be raised about 12 in. from the floor by placing the
foot on a support. Continue spinning with the palm of the right hand
until the thread is twisted enough. If twisted too much, it will work
into knots when used in stitching. Then put the twisted side round
the left hand, kept firm by the third and fourth fingers as before;
and take the other side between the thumb and forefinger of the left
hand, and spin it to the proper twist with the palm of the right hand
as the other side was done. If the thread is required very smooth,
twist both of the sides of the thread once round the seat-awl and
draw the latter sharply backwards and forwards along the thread, all
unevenness being thus smoothed away. For coarse work and repairs this
is not necessary, but for best and new work the thread should always
be smoothed.
To wax the thread, hold the two ends of the thread firmly in the left
hand, and with the ball of wax held in the palm of the right hand,
rub all along the thread, pulling the thread from around the hook
into the open to enable that portion to be waxed also. Pull back the
thread into its former position, and, with a piece of soft leather or
the bare hand, rub the thread sharply from end to end to smooth the
wax and make it even all along. The thread is then ready for use.
Yellow or white hemp thread is made with either beeswax or white
wax in exactly the same manner, but the point of the thread is not
dressed with white wax, being left unwaxed until the rest of the
thread is finished. The end has to be pointed with black wax, which
will not stick over beeswax or white wax. Black wax is the only kind
that will keep the thread fast to the needles.
Nails are extensively used both in putting materials together for
working and as ornaments. The nails used in putting work together are
generally cut tacks, ranging in length from ⅝ in. to 1 in. Neat wire
nails can now be had, however, much cheaper than the tacks, and are
to be preferred, as they are of uniform size and leave a much smaller
hole when withdrawn. Clumsy nails spoil good work, as the holes made
by them are larger than the awl used in stitching. Very fine nails do
not spoil the work, and can be obtained in sizes suitable for heavier
and clumsier work; and they may be used over and over again if care
is taken in pulling them out with the nail-claw. Cut tacks are used
in putting gig saddles together, in nailing the leather to the tree,
in adjusting panels in the gullet and behind, between the two prongs
of the crupper staples, for nailing seats in riding saddles, etc. Cut
tacks can be obtained as small as ⅜ in. in length.
Saddlers’ tacks of different sizes from ½ in. to ¾ in. long are
used in putting in cart-saddle and riding-saddle panels and flaps,
and for many other purposes. Clout nails are used now and then in
putting houses on cart saddles, and for nailing on straps and girths,
etc. Clout nails and saddlers’ tacks are made of wrought iron.
Round-headed and japanned nails may be used for nailing cart-saddle
housings, and have a neater appearance than common iron clouts. Tough
nails are used in making all kinds of saddles; they sometimes have
heads covered with black patent leather, and sometimes japanned heads
only. Others have heads of silver, nickel, or brass. They are used
partly as ornaments and partly to hold the work together, and are
in two sizes, cab and gig. There are usually four in a gig or cab
saddle, one in each corner of the skirt in front and one on each side
behind, holding down the binding that comes over the cantle of the
saddle. The front ones are driven through, bent, and beaten close to
the tree backwards, whilst the hind ones are cut to taper for about
half their lengths to a point; they are driven into the tree.
In a riding saddle there is one nail in the front, one in each of the
sides, one in the corner of the skirts driven through and bent, and
one on each side just at the thin end of the skirt, driven inwards
so as to catch the tree and be flattened close to it. There is also
one in each flap under the skirt in a line with the stirrup fastener,
driven through the tree on the outside of the plate running along
the points from the gullet; these are bent and flattened underneath.
Sometimes brass nails are used as ornaments, but brass beading has
done away with their use to a great extent. Formerly country cart
saddles were ornamented by nailing the housing to the tree with brass
nails; the covers of van saddles, as well as the opening over the
boards, were also fastened down with these nails.
Such pieces as loop leather, the edges of black straps, etc., often
have to be dyed. The dye or stain is made by boiling together for
half an hour 1 lb. logwood chips, 4 oz. crushed nutgalls, ½ lb.
copperas, a little gum arabic, and 5 qt. of water. Keep a little in
an old bottle hung in a handy position near the bench. The dye is
applied by a stick having a piece of felt attached to its end. The
ink can be thinned by the addition of water. In dyeing brown leather,
it must first be coated with soda solution to kill the grease. The
solution is made by dissolving a piece of washing soda the size of
a pigeon’s egg in a quart of hot water. The black dye may then be
applied. If it does not strike well, rub over it a coarse brush and
again coat with dye. Rub it well and dry with a rag, afterwards well
rubbing in a little tallow with either a rag or the bare hand. The
tallow gives a finish and counteracts any injury the dye might do the
hand, there being in the copperas a tendency to burn.
Flocks, both white and coloured, are extensively used in the trade,
and can be bought at from 20s. to 50s. per hundredweight; the
material can also be had in small quantities—even as low as a pound.
Best white flock should be free from cotton, and should be tested by
putting a small quantity in a candle flame; if cotton is present, it
burns fiercely and with a big flame, but fine wool burns slowly and
smoulders. The best flock is used for stuffing riding-saddle panels,
etc., and the best drummed flock is used for collars, being put near
the horse’s breast under the lining to make the collars easy for the
shoulder.
The drummed flocks are in large sheets, and these are cut to the size
and shape required, and, being of even thickness, will not be lumpy,
an important consideration in making a collar. Coarser flock of a
white, brown, or any dark colour will do for stuffing and restuffing
gig-saddle panels. Curled horsehair is sometimes used for stuffing
panels, and is found very cool for an animal with a tender back or
shoulder; goat hair is very suitable for stuffing. Neither this nor
horsehair is so liable to be clogged by sweating as sheep’s wool,
though the latter, when dry, containing but very little oil and being
well carded, is used extensively in country places.
All these materials before use should be put through the flock
machine once or twice to loosen the fibre, and care should be taken
when stuffing with a rod that the flock or wool is not put in lumpy
or uneven. After stuffing, the work should be levelled with the
seat-awl until it is as smooth as a board. The drummed flock, of
course, is already level and even; it is not stuffed in, but laid on
the inside of the collar lining before stuffing the collar with straw.
Thick felt is a good substitute for pads to ease collars and saddles,
and can be bought in various thicknesses by the pound. Large
cuttings and waste pieces can also be bought very cheaply, and two
thicknesses can be put together if necessary, a strap and a buckle
being on one side with a strap on the other to fasten to a saddle or
collar. Felt is useful to put under cruppers and to line breechings
when chafing, or under any strappings that chafe the horse’s skin.
They can be fastened to the above by stitching them with a spot
stitch, thus - - - - -, about ¾ in. apart, and slanting the awl
underneath to make the stitch small there as well as on the top; or
nails may be used when the felt is sufficiently thick. False collars,
pads to be used like saddle cloths under gig or cab saddles and under
cart-saddle panels, riding-saddle cloths, and many other articles are
made of felt.
The harness maker and saddler uses many different kinds of leather,
and, unless the worker possesses some knowledge of the particular
purpose of each variety, much waste is likely to result. Stuff too
light or too heavy, too thick or too thin, spoils a job, and of
course entails loss.
In Fig. 63, which is a diagram showing a cut hide, A A show the sides
of a harness hide with belly on; C C, backs of harness hide with
belly off; B B B B, bellies of hide; D D, middlings; E, shoulder; and
F, uncut middling.
Harness leather can be bought in hides (A A) cut only along the back,
having the belly part attached, at the rate of from 1s. 2d. to 1s.
11d. per lb. The best part can be used for harness and cart gear; the
belly will come in well for repairs, linings, and fillings. Harness
backs (C C) are half hides from which the belly (B B) has been cut
off; these have all pure firm leather suitable for making all kinds
of harness. The price is from 1s. 9d. to 2s. 5d. per pound.
Trace backs (C C) resemble the above, but are picked and more
carefully dressed, and are made of the finest and best grown hides.
They cost from 1s. l0d. to 2s. 7d. per pound.
Rein hides have the bellies attached but are dressed and of picked
quality and thickness and uniform strength; they are suitable for
making into driving reins. For the best part can also be made any
good light single straps, where strength and durability are required.
The best part of the belly can be cut up into small straps of any
kind and into linings. These hides cost from 56s. to 72s. each. Rein
backs resemble the above, but have the belly cut off; the price is
from 40s. to 70s. each.
Black strap butts (D D) are the best part of the hide from which the
belly and shoulder have been cut. They are from 4 ft. 6 in. to 4 ft.
9 in. long, and are suitable for any kind of good single strap. The
price is from 56s. to 72s. a pair.
Black spur shoulders (E) are light shoulders dressed and flattened;
from them are made spur and similar straps, garters, wrist straps,
etc. The price is from 8s. 6d. to 10s. each. Japanned horse hides
for patent harness collars cost from 40s. to 46s. each. Cow hides,
japanned for the same purpose, cost from 38s. to 44s. each. Japanned
cow-backs for collars, etc., cost from 30s. to 39s. per pair.
Japanned flap hides for making gig, cab, or brougham harness saddle
flaps are priced at from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per pound. The middlings
cost from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound.
Winker hides, japanned for making bridle winkers, cost 54s. to 56s.
each, and the middlings (F) for the same purpose cost from 32s.
to 36s. per pair. Japanned welting seals for making welts for gig
saddles, etc., are priced at from 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. each. Japanned
and enamelled hides for making military belts, etc., cost from 54s.
to 60s. each, and middlings for the same purpose from 40s. to 42s.
per pair.
There is great variety in brown or stained leather. Bridle hides for
all sorts of riding bridles cost from 50s. to 56s. each. Backs (C C)
from the above cost 45s. to 50s. each, whilst the butts cost 32s. to
40s.; these are in varying qualities and prices.
Brown shoulders (E) dressed for coat straps, garters, braces, or
small straps in general can be bought at from 6s. 6d. to 10s. each,
and driving-rein brown hides at from 56s. to 72s. each. The backs
cost from 56s. to 66s. a pair, and the butts for handparts of reins
38s. to 42s. a pair.
[Illustration: Fig. 63.—Cutting up Hide.]
Double-rein hides—that is, brown leather specially selected and
dressed for making reins of double thickness stitched together, cost
from 44s. to 50s. each. The backs cost from 40s. to 48s. per pair.
Head-collar rein backs for making head-collars, stallion bridles,
etc., can be bought at from 2s. 6d. to 2s. 11d. per pound.
Stirrup hides for making stirrup straps cost from 2s. 6d. to 2s.
9d. per pound; there are also inferior qualities. Butts for stirrup
straps cost from 3s. 6d. to 4s. per pound. Brown harness hides cost
from 1s. 6d. to 1s. 11d. per pound. The backs cost from 1s. 8d. to
2s. 2d. per pound. Skirt hides for making ladies’ and gents’ saddle
skirts and flaps are priced at from 1s. 10d. to 2s. 2d. per pound.
Skirt backs are from 2s. to 2s. 4d. per pound, and shoulders, 1s. 5d.
to 1s. 10d. per pound.
Hog-skins suitable for all purposes, but chiefly used for saddles,
can be bought at from £9 to £12 per dozen; they can be bought singly,
and there are also inferior qualities.
Sheep-skins in imitation of hog-skins can be bought at from 30s. to
60s. per dozen, or copper plates for printing basils and a printing
press for the purpose can be bought instead. Basils for gig-saddle
panel pads and repairing collars, and cart-saddle cheek pads, etc.,
can be bought at from 10s. to 30s. per dozen. The common ones are
good enough for repairs and cheap work.
Specially dressed hides for making braces or any light straps can be
bought at from 36s. to 40s. each; the shoulders (E) or bellies (B)
dressed for the same purpose can be had apart from the hide. Purse
and pocket-book hides are also specially dressed, and cost from 30s.
to 40s. each. Calf-skins dressed for the same purpose cost from 9s.
to 10s. 6d. each. The brace and pocket-book and purse leather can be
obtained stained in various colours, red, brown, yellow, orange, etc.
The brown harness leather also can be had natural or tallow colour or
stained fawn, nut brown, yellow, or orange. Brown gear hides for cart
work are from 1s. 3d. to 2s. per pound, the backs from 1s. 7d. to 2s.
3d. per pound, and bellies from 10d. to 1s. 4d. per pound.
Mill bands for making driving belts cost from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 2d. per
pound. Engine butts for making strong engine belts, either single or
double, cost from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per pound.
Fancy coloured leather for bridle fronts and rosettes cost from 40s.
to 42s. each middling. Striped patent frontings leather costs from
1s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. per square foot. White buff hides for hunting-crop
keepers, razor strops, belts, etc., cost about 5s. per pound. White
bleached buff middling is about 5s. per pound.
A country saddler is often called upon to work in coach-builders’
leather; leathers for this purpose are not included in the above
list, but, as a rule, they can be obtained at the same place as
harness leather.
Enamelled cow, ox, and bull hides for carriage tops, etc., are sold
whole, and not slit along the middle, at from 40s. to 70s. each.
Coach hides and backs for dashes and wings cost from 26s. to 40s.
each. Seal-skins for the same purpose cost from 7s. 6d. to 12s. each.
Hides for window straps, enamelled and prepared, cost from 56s. to
60s. each. All coloured carriage cushion hides for making carriage
cushions cost from 40s. to 60s. each. Dyed and enamelled leather for
cushions is sold by the square foot.
It is scarcely necessary to state that all the above prices fluctuate
with the market. A great quantity of harness leather, nowadays, is
prepared by the quick tanning process, but it is inferior stuff. The
best leather is that which has been through a pure oak tan. It is
very hard, however, to tell when the inferior process has been used,
but as a rule the colour, smell, and even taste of the leather decide
the question; soft, mellow leather that has not a hard feeling to the
touch is as a rule good leather, especially if it has a close grain
and a light yellow colour when cut. The inferior quality feels and
looks dry and hard: it has a dull grey colour and an uneven grain
facing. A good test is to bend it, poor and badly dressed leather
cracking in the bend, and the grain giving way; these defects show
that either chemicals or excessive heats have been used in the
finishing and tanning. Well tanned and dressed leather stands the
bending test well.
A few rules on cutting up hides may now be given. When cutting a
strap from a hide, do not cut down lower than the width of the strap
required, so as not to interfere with the next cut into the hide.
All possible care should be taken to prevent waste, and pieces of
particular shape should be cut from a pattern. It is sheer waste to
cut off a piece of stuff larger than is required and then to trim it
down. In cutting up a hide, lay it on the bench with the back part
against the worker; use a straightedge at least 8 ft. long, and mark
with a blunt-pointed awl or the seat-awl, using the straightedge
as a guide. Take care not to cut the grain of the leather with the
point of the awl, as in the case of the straightedge being shifted an
indelible mark may be left.
If the strap is to be cut with the round knife, set the compass to
the right width, and put one point in position to run along the edge
of the leather, and the other on the leather so that it marks the
width to be cut; pull the compass towards the worker, pressing it so
that it leaves a plain line. With the round knife begin cutting at
the right-hand end, keeping the leather steady in its place on the
cutting-board with the left hand. A cutting-board ought always to be
employed, as nails on the top of the bench would interfere with the
work. Push the knife along the marked line steadily, taking care that
the knife does not slip; if it does, it may make a bad slit and spoil
the work. Straps are always cut along the hide and not across it, the
hide being much stronger lengthways.
The first cutting from the hide is suitable for reins, and then
in order come traces, back-bands, bridging-straps, hip-straps,
and hip-strap tugs; then crupper billet, shaft tugs, name tugs,
bellyband, bridle head-strap, cheeks, etc.; and from the belly part
or third quality in side of hide may be cut linings and layers
for folds. In making cart harness, cut bridge-band, crupper, and
bridge-band carrier or hip-straps and bearers, and then cart-saddle
bellybands and bridle; the best part of the belly, with the top well
lined, will do for side pieces of collar, unless this can be cut from
a specially dressed piece.
Specially curried leather must be obtained for cart-saddle housings
and winkers, as the harness leather is not firm enough and contains
too much oil. The special leather also must be got for the saddle
flaps, the pieces lying against the ribs of the horse under the
ridgworth.
A leather that is cheapest in first cost is not always the cheapest
to use. That leather is the best from which the greatest weight
of firm straps can be made, and which will continue firm for the
greatest length down towards the belly part.
The compass and round knife only were mentioned in the description
of cutting straps, but the plough is very useful for cutting straps
varying from ½ in. to 5½ in. in width. The plough does away with the
use of both compass and round knife, and cuts much more evenly and
straight than it is possible to do by hand. Its use effects a great
saving of time, the knife merely requiring to be adjusted on the
gauge and made fast by the thumb-screw. Hold the leather firm and
flat on the board with the left hand, and press it forward to the
plough, keeping the guard close and tight to the edge all along. The
uses of the head knife in cutting will be fully explained later.
Brown harness work, as small straps, traces, back-band, and
breechings, may be finished with a thin solution of gum and water,
and should be well rubbed with a smooth bone until polished.
Machines for trimming the edges are made, but their work is
incomplete, because all lengthy straps have parts in which the fibres
are less close than at others. A good method is to knock the edges
all along, consolidate them as much as possible, and then trim them
round and level with the spokeshave; afterwards run a glass scraper
over them and sandpaper. Finally, a good rubbing with brown paper and
bone, after gumming, will give a fine polished edge to all brown work.
Black straps and harness are prepared in the same way for polishing;
black dye them, then rub dry with a rag, and polish with brown paper
and bone. Sometimes, after blacking and rubbing, a coat of liquid
blacking is applied, and rubbed until dry. Again, some harness-makers
employ black-ball and a burnisher to finish after blacking, rubbing
down well; this is recommended for the best harness. It should be
understood that whenever the word finishing used here in connection
with best harness this process is referred to for black and brown
harness and single straps.
Common harness and cart gear, especially in country places, are
usually finished by levelling the edges, scraping with glass,
blacking, rubbing with a rag, and finally, after passing a ball of
hard tallow along the edges, rubbing with a bone or hard knife handle.
Webs are used for a variety of purposes by saddlers. Girth web for
making saddle girths is sold in 15-yd. pieces. It can be had in
cotton, union, or worsted. Race girth is a superior material for
racing saddles; it is about 5 in. wide. Web for roller girth is from
4 in. to 6 in. wide and in 12½-yd. pieces; it is of cotton, union, or
worsted. In the same material is made trace web in 18½-yd. pieces, 1½
in. to 2½ in. wide. Game-bag web is sometimes required, and is bought
by the yard in different colours. Men’s body-belt web is to be had
in 18-yd. pieces from 4 in. to 8 in. wide, and in seven or eight
colours. Straining-web for saddle seats can be bought by the yard or
in the piece. A country saddler finds diaper-web very useful; this is
bought in 15-yd. pieces.
Other requisites, such as bits, spurs, stirrups, and harness
furniture are described in Chapter X.
A few reliable recipes for some of the most necessary articles
employed in harness making will now be given.
_Iron Liquor for Dyeing._—(_a_) Green copperas, 2 lb.; vinegar, 2
qt.; pulverised nutgall, ¼ lb.; and water, 4 qt. Two weeks after
mixing add another 2 qt. of water. (_b_) Bichromate of potash, ½ lb.;
logwood extract, 1 lb.; copperas, 1 oz.; and water, 1 gal.
_Saddlers’ Black Wax._—(_a_) Pitch, 2 lb.; resin, 2½ lb.; seal oil,
one pennyworth. In winter add 2 lb. of resin instead of 2½ lb., and
never more than ⅔ of the oil until the stiffness of the wax has
been tested. (_b_) Pitch, 1 lb.; resin, 1 lb.; and linseed oil, one
pennyworth.
The exact amount of oil to be used in both of the above recipes
depends on the season and the weather. A little lampblack may be
well mixed in when the wax is required very black. Always melt the
pitch and resin together, and then add the oil. Afterwards pour the
mixture into cold water, and knead and pull it until it floats. Try a
small piece first to ascertain whether there is sufficient oil, and
likewise after pulling to see whether it floats.
_Brown Wax._—Beeswax, 1 lb.; pale resin, 3 oz.; and white-lead, 3 oz.
The wax can be softened or hardened by adding more or less beeswax.
Melt the mixture, stirring it, and then pour it into water and pull
until it floats.
_Flour Paste._—Water, 1 qt., and alum 3 oz. Heat until the alum has
melted, and when cold add flour to the consistency of cream; then let
the mixture boil, stirring it at the same time. By adding a little
powdered resin and a clove or two before boiling, the paste will keep
for a year and can be softened with water when dry.
_Brown Stain._—Boil equal parts of pine and alder bark in six times
their bulk of water until the colour is extracted, and when cold add
a little alcohol.
_Yellow Stain._—Boil some fustic berries in alum water and darken
the shade by adding powdered brazil, which must be boiled with the
berries.
_Brown, Russet, and Yellow Stain._—Boil a given amount of saffron
in water until the colour is extracted, cut a quantity of annatto,
putting it into urine, and mix the urine and extract, the proportion
of each determining the shade; the greater the amount of annatto the
darker the colour.
_Stain for Riding Saddles, etc._—Saffron, three pennyworth; annatto,
one pennyworth; soft soap, one pennyworth; and boiling water, 1 qt.
Mix and let the whole stand until ready.
_Reviver for Patent Leather._—Mix warm linseed oil 1 pt., and cream 1
pt. Apply with a sponge and polish with a soft flannel or rag.
_Harness Composition._—(_a_) Glue, 4 oz.; gum arabic, 3 oz.; water,
¾ pt. Dissolve all by heat and add 6 oz. of treacle and 5 oz. of
very finely powdered ivory black, and slowly evaporate with constant
trituration until the composition is of the proper consistency when
cold. When nearly cold, bottle and cork; if necessary the bottle can
be warmed before use. (_b_) Mutton suet 2 oz., and pure beeswax 6 oz.
Melt this mixture and then add finely powdered sugar candy, 6 oz.;
soft soap, 2 oz.; lampblack, 2 oz.; and finely powdered indigo, ½ oz.
When perfectly incorporated add ¼ pt. of oil of turpentine. Keep the
composition in pots or tins, (_c_) Beeswax, 1 lb.; soft soap, 6 oz.;
ivory black, ¼ lb.; Prussian blue (ground in), 1 oz.; linseed oil, 2
oz.; and oil of turpentine, ½ pt. Mix well together and pot. Put a
thin layer of one of the above on the leather and polish gently with
a brush or rubber.
_Harness Jet._—Molasses, 8 parts; lampblack, 1 part; sweet oil, 1
part; gum arabic, 1 part; isinglass, 1 part; and water, 32 parts. Mix
well together and add 1 pt. of turpentine. Apply the mixture with a
sponge. If it is hard, place the bottle in hot water to soften the
mixture. One ounce of spirit of wine can also be added when cool.
_Waterproof Paste for Carriage Harness._—(_a_) Dissolve three sticks
of black sealing wax in ½ pt. of alcohol, or dissolve lac in alcohol
and colour with sufficient lampblack. (_b_) Melt 2 oz. of black resin
in a glazed vessel over the fire, and then add 3 oz. of beeswax, and
as soon as all is melted remove from the fire and add ½ oz. of fine
lampblack and ½ oz. of Prussian blue in powder. Stir all well and add
enough turpentine to form a thin paste. Cool and apply with a sponge;
polish with a soft brush.
_Oil for Farm and Team Harness._—Melt 3 lb. of pure tallow without
letting it boil, and gently add 1 lb. of pure neatsfoot oil. Stir
continually until cold, so that it will be perfectly mixed, otherwise
the tallow will harden in lumps. To colour, add a little bone black
or lampblack.
_Brass Polishing Paste._—(_a_) Dissolve 3 parts of oxalic acid in 40
of water, with 100 of pumicestone powdered, 2 of oil of turpentine,
12 of soft soap, and 12 of any fat oil. (_b_) Beat equal weights of
soft soap and rottenstone into a paste.
_Plate Powder._—Take as much sulphate of iron as will fill a clay
pipe, keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, and mix with
powdered chalk.
_Leather Preserver._—To preserve harness from the effect of ammonia
in stables add a little glycerine to the oil employed.
_Leather Cement._—(_a_) Dissolve guttapercha in bisulphate of carbon
until of the consistency of treacle. Shave well the parts to be
cemented and then spread a little cement evenly over them. Warm them
for about half a minute, apply one against the other quickly, and
press hard. Keep the bottle well corked and in a cool place. (_b_)
Melt guttapercha, 16 parts; pure rubber, 4 parts; yellow pitch, 2
parts; shellac, 1 part; and linseed oil, 2 parts, and apply as above.
(_c_) Guttapercha, 1 lb.; indiarubber, 4 oz.; pitch, 1 oz.; shellac,
1 oz.; and linseed oil, 2 oz. Melt all together. The composition will
harden when kept, and must be melted for use.
_Bronzing for Leather._—A small amount of so-called insoluble aniline
violet is dissolved in a little water and the solution brushed over
the article; it will dry quickly. If the result is not satisfactory,
repeat the process.
_To Gild Calf- or Sheepskin._—Wet the leather with some egg albumen,
and, when dry, rub it with the hands damped with a little olive oil.
Then apply the gold leaf, and pass a hot iron over it.
CHAPTER III.
STRAP MAKING AND STITCHING.
Instructions have been given on making threads and cutting leather,
and now a simple exercise in stitching may be given in the putting
together of small straps.
In making a box strap, cut with the round knife or plough from the
back of the hide a good piece of leather, which should be 6 ft. long,
and 1½ in. wide. Turn down about 2 in. of one end, cut a hole within
about ¼ in. of the bend, and slit the part out with two cuts. Neatly
shave down the point of the under piece with the round knife, and
slant the other end a bit at each side to make a neat point to enter
the buckle easily. Run the No. 1 edge tool along the sharp edges of
the two sides and of the top and bottom; this takes a small strip
off, rounds the edges, and produces a better finish. If brown leather
is used, wipe the edges with a damp sponge; instead of pure water, a
very thin solution of gum may be used. Then rub the edges with a rag
or with a piece of brown paper until they are smooth and polished.
Adjust the screw-crease so that it marks a line about ⅛ in. inside
the edges, warm the crease in a gas or candle flame, and rub it
sharply all along the edge, guiding the crease mark on the strap
by keeping the other side of the crease close up to the strap. Rub
backwards and forwards until there is a deep polished mark on the
strap, then mark across the point in the same way. This operation is
known as creasing.
Two crease marks instead of one may be made after turning the
thumb-screw to widen the points of the tool. Then cut a piece to form
a loop about ¾ in. wide and long enough to go round any part of the
strap and make the ends meet. Edge this in the same way as the strap,
polish with dye or water according to colour, and then crease.
For a running loop—one that runs loosely along the strap—the leather
about ½ in. longer than twice the width of the strap so as to
overlap; shave one end on the top or grain side, and the other on
the bottom or flesh side, so that when jointed the pieces will make
an even thickness. Allow sufficient length for the two thicknesses
of strap to go through, and mark where it is to overlap. Put one
side of the doubled part in the clamp and stitch the side opposite,
then reverse it and stitch the other; all running loops are made in
this way except for very common straps, when the strips are simply
brought end to end and a stitch or two is made from side of the
doubled part in the clamp and stitch the buckle, put the tongue point
of the latter through the hole made for it in the strap, and having
marked the stitches eight or ten to the inch with the wheel-pricker
on the short underpart, put the loop in between the two leathers
deep enough for the stitches to hold firmly. Begin stitching by the
buckle, putting a cross stitch downwards close to it. Stitch the
straight row along the line of marks close to the buckle end, and
have a stitch over; do not pull the thread up at the last stitch,
but have both the ends underneath. Put two or three stitches in the
centre at the point; here also the last stitch is downwards. Then
begin stitching the other side. With the awl put the first hole close
to the point and pull the thread through; make the next hole and put
the other thread up and the top one down, and so on until the loop
is reached. See that the loop is of the right length; if too long,
cut a bit off. Put the point in between the two leathers, deep enough
to catch the stitches, and put one or two stitches in the side next
to the thread, slanting the awl a little outwards at the point. Put
the upper needle through the loop so that the stitching will not be
over it, and have a stitch or two in the side of the loop next to the
worker; finish it up to the buckle. Put a cross stitch at the finish,
the same as on the other side, and cut the thread. Put a loop stick
of the same width and thickness as the strap through both loops,
hammer them lightly to shape, and run the warm single crease along
the edges. With a punch of the right size cut the required number of
buckle holes, beginning about 5 in. from the point; make the distance
between the holes a little more than the width of the strap. This is
always the rule in punching single straps, such as garters, cart hame
straps, dog muzzle straps, luggage straps, etc.
With regard to threading the needles, a properly made thread will
have a nice point, which must be well waxed, and pulled between the
finger and thumb two or three times to warm the wax so that it will
stick. Pass the end through the eye of the needle for from 1 in. to 2
in., according to the fineness of the point, and holding the thread
between the finger and the thumb of the left hand, spin it from you
with the finger and thumb of the right hand. Afterwards draw the
thread from the needle downwards at the point between the fingers
so as to stick the point together well and make it smooth. Take
care not to put it too far through the eye, or it will be too thick
to go through the holes in the leather, while if it is not pulled
through far enough the thread is liable to break. Be careful also to
get needles of proper size; light thread for light work and strong
thread for thick and heavy work; and a fine awl for fine thread, and
a coarse and strong one for coarser thread, and so on.
In making the first hole in stitching, put the needle and thread up
from underneath, and draw exactly half of the thread through. Put
both needles together and adjust the lengths of the two portions of
threads, and with the awl cut the second hole, and stitch on. Always
put the lower thread in each hole first and draw it up about 3 in.,
then put the other needle in and pull, always keeping the thread from
below lowest in the hole and the top thread above. This is managed
by pulling with the upper hand a bit downwards, and with the hand
at the back of the work a bit upwards, thus tending to keep the
stitches in position. It may be noticed that the hole is not round,
but square and elongated, and tends to help the manipulation of the
thread. Do not make a practice of pushing the awl through the work
at right angles to the face, but on the slant; the holes made by the
wheel-pricker are all on the slant. The above instructions also apply
to double-thread stitching, the kind mostly used in harness making,
though many things, such as the straps, described above, are stitched
with single thread.
In back stitching, use one thread only; begin by putting it up from
below; put it down backwards in the next hole to the one last made,
and then pull it tightly from below. There is not much difference on
the top side, but the stitches on the underside are twice as long
and cross each other in chain fashion. Sometimes it is convenient
to adopt this method to use up waste points, etc., but such things
as traces, surcingles, waist-belts of web, saddle girths, etc., are
always stitched with single thread. When repairing inferior harness,
single thread can sometimes be used without stitching backwards, by
doing what is called spotting, that is, always going forward thus / /
/, and only up and down forward, the stitching appearing like spots,
and not as an unbroken chain.
Stitching with white lace in cart work is done in this manner:—Put
the holes on the upper side very close together, but underneath; the
distance apart may vary with the fineness of the work. This kind
of lace stitching is not much in vogue now, but it looks well when
across the end of breechings for cart purposes, across the openings
in cart cruppers, etc. Lace needles and white skin will be necessary
for this work.
Riding bridles and almost all light brown work are stitched single
thread and backwards, with either white linen, cotton, or silk
beeswaxed, or sometimes with yellow fine hemp thread beeswaxed.
Dog-collars are made in a similar way to the straps previously
mentioned, only the bend is made a little longer underneath to allow
sufficient lining under the D to which the chain may be fastened.
[Illustration: Fig. 64.—Plain Waist Belt.]
Now that an insight into stitching has been obtained, the making of a
waist-belt, Figs. 64 to 66, may be described. Cut the web so that its
ends meet together round the waist, and also cut pieces of very thin
belly brown leather or basil, for binding the ends; the latter should
be about 1¼ in. wide, and as long as the webbing is wide. Turn down
the binding along the centre lengthways, hammer it lightly, and with
the screw-crease mark along one side; then slip it in both sides of
the ends of the web, and either put a tack or two in it, to keep it
in place, or paste it down. Allow the paste to dry before proceeding
further. With the wheel-pricker along the crease mark the stitches,
about ten to the inch, then put the web in the clamp, the latter
being between the knees, and begin stitching at the end farthest
from the worker. Use one yellow or white linen thread dressed with
beeswax. On coming to the end, cut the thread; also cut the binding
square with the edge of the web and stitch both ends across at some
distance from the edge.
Prepare the pieces to be put over the straps and chapes; cut them
about 3 in. wide, and straight on one side, making any fancy cut on
the other; two of these pieces are wanted, one at each end. Then cut
the straps and chapes, and use light tinned bridle buckles or brown
covered buckles ⅞ in. wide. With the compasses set to the right
width, mark out the straps on a close piece of brown shoulder or
belly leather. Cut the straps about 6 in. long and the chapes about
2½ in. long. They may be cut in long strips, being afterwards divided
into the required lengths. Form the strap, point one end a little,
and shave the other end to go under the pieces above mentioned; rub
the edges either with water or solution, and crease them about 1/16
in. from the edge. Then turn down the chapes for the buckles, shave
down both ends thin, and let the lower one be a little shorter than
the other. Punch a small hole about ¼ in. from the end, cut the hole
clean out at the bend, and the piece is then ready for the buckle.
[Illustration: Fig. 65.—Fancy Waist Belt.]
Use thin brown waste to make the loops; with the compasses mark a
width of this about ⅜ in., cut to the right length; then rub and
crease the chapes. Place the buckles in the leather, put in the loops
about half the width of the chape between the two points of the
chape, and close to the buckle, and put two or three stitches in each
end. The pieces to hold up the belt firmly at the small of the back
should be about 1 in. wide. Rub the edges and crease them as well as
the two pieces for the front, and mark stitches with the pricker in
all of them. Three of these back supports will be needed, one right
across the centre of the belt and one on each side, 3 in. from the
centre at the top and slanting inwards to within 1½ in. from the
centre at the bottom.
[Illustration: Fig. 66.—Waist Belt with Pockets.]
To determine which is the lower and which is the upper side of the
belt, bear in mind that, when being worn, the buckles will be on the
left-hand side and the straps on the right. Put one of the 3-in.
wide pieces flat on the belt, within about 3 in. of the end, and
either paste or tack it in its place from the lower side. Put the
straps in about ¾ in., all three exactly alike, one in the centre,
and the others one on each side within ⅛ in. of the edge. Place the
other piece in the other end so near the edge that, in putting the
buckle chapes up to the loops under the edge of the piece, the outer
edge of the buckle is flush with the end of the belt. Fasten the
chapes in position exactly opposite the straps in the other end. Then
backstitch the pieces in each end all round, in the same way as the
binding was treated. Put a second row of stitches farther in than
the first, through the strap ends and through the end of the chapes;
leave about ½ in. between two rows, and then lay on the back straps.
Having pricked them, stitch them in the same way as the others. If
pasted on, they can be kept more easily in their place; if pasting is
not convenient, pencil on their positions and keep them to the mark
in stitching.
It is usual to put a piece of whalebone or good hard cane inside
these to keep them up; thin the bone or cane and push it in between
the leather and webbing from one end, and then stitch both ends
across. Put four or six holes in the straps and see that they work
easily in the loops, when the belt is finished.
CHAPTER IV.
LOOPING.
Some hints on looping will be given in this chapter. The loops are
pieces of leather placed crosswise on all straps, which have buckles,
to keep the point of the strap in its proper position. Sometimes also
loops are employed merely to hold the straps in place, as for example
in the case of shaft tugs. Loops are common to all kinds of straps in
general and to harness and cart gear in particular.
Straps made to exact length with only one hole are cut long enough
beyond the hole to go through the loop, and so give the work a neat
finish. When the unused part of the strap varies considerably in
length, the part run through the buckle being sometimes 6 in. long
and sometimes 3 ft. long, a runner loop must be made to hold the
point of the strap.
A runner is a loop which runs loosely along the strap to any required
part. To make it, one end is laid on the other, overlapping it more
or less according to the size of the loop, and the material is then
stitched; it must be made loose enough for two thicknesses of the
strap to pass easily.
The width of the loops, except in the case of pipe or box loops
(defined later) must always be in proportion with that of the strap;
the broader the strap, the broader is the loop. Taste and a due sense
of proportion are necessary here as elsewhere. The loop must never
be placed too near the buckle, particularly when the strap running
through is stiff. Both ends of the loop should be placed so that they
can be firmly stitched; the first end is stitched easily, but the
second requires more practice. The ends of the loop should be made
to meet in the centre of the strap, care being taken to catch it at
the first stitch, for then it will not easily slip from its place.
Two stitches on each side may suffice, but a very wide loop will need
four or five on both sides of the ends. Slant the awl with every
stitch, using the end of the awl to drive the loop a little out of
the way.
It must not be taken for granted that a firm hold of the loop has
been obtained until it is completely stitched; but make sure of
the work at the first stitch, as otherwise it may be necessary
to unstitch the work and do it again. Care must be taken also to
ascertain that the loop is straight in its place at the first stitch,
and that one side of the same end is not farther in than the other. A
crooked loop spoils the appearance of the whole of the work.
[Illustration: Fig. 67.—Box Creased Loop.]
Box loops (Figs. 67 to 70) or, as they are styled, pipe loops, are
long loops like those on bridle cheeks, bearers of gig breechings,
hame tugs, etc. To make them, measure the length and width of the
loop required; for example, a bridle cheek ¾ in. wide and 8 in. long
will need a loop 1⅜ in. wide and 7¼ in. long.
Before making the loop, crease a line along the place to be stitched,
about ⅛ in. from the edge, and cut a groove along the line to about
half the depth; then open the groove well with the blunt point of a
compass, passing it backwards and forwards. The stitching is done
along this groove, which is finally closed.
[Illustration: Fig. 68.—Box Creased Loops.]
The groove is necessary on account of the coarse stitches, about four
to the inch, which are thus kept out of sight and prevented from
being worn away by friction. Another method is to slit the leather
about 3/16 in. from the side; then to raise it and stitch under it.
When finished, apply a little paste or gum to hold it firm, and
smooth it down over the stitches.
Mark a line on the loop at about half the width of the strap and run
a writing pen along it to keep the mark visible; the loop, being of
brown leather, will retain the mark of the ink, whereas the compass
mark alone would be obliterated by damping. This mark is essential
as a guide in fixing the loop and stitching. Mark the inside of the
loop first time and the outer side the second. Damp the loop well
first. Stitch the first side with black wax three-cord thread about
¼ in. apart; this is an easy job, the difficult point being the
blind-stitching. Put the loop between the winker and the cheek as far
as the mark and put a tack in each end and one in the centre.
[Illustration:
Fig. 69. Fig. 70.
Figs. 69 and 70.—Box Creased Loops.]
The first stitches are simple enough, but when it becomes impossible
to see and reach the hole the awl must be put right through the
loop to the other thread about ¼ in. apart; this is an easy job, the
side, the needle and thread being passed afterwards. Take the needles
off both threads, and by means of a wire hook pull the inside thread
out through the loop until it is 3 in. from the hole it entered. Now
put the awl through the thread close to the loop, run the end of the
other thread through for about 2 in., and pull it through the hole
by the aid of the first thread to the side being stitched. Take out
the end of the thread, put through and pull both extremities until
tight, one in the groove and the other inside the loop. Repeat this
operation with every stitch, but when about half-way through the
loop, the thread inside must be run through to the other end, the
work being continued from that end until finished.
Another method of making box loops, though it is not recommended, is
as follows: Put an iron loop-stick inside and fasten the loop down by
driving small tacks into the groove, this groove being then closed
by rubbing the edges well. A third method consists in running the
threads through with a bristle, or twisting the threads together and
thus running them through.
CHAPTER V.
CART HARNESS.
The make and pattern of cart gear are very varied in all parts of the
kingdom, and there is often a local name for each particular style;
but the only gear which can claim special favour is one that combines
proper strength with minimum weight.
[Illustration: Fig. 71.—Horse in Cart Gear.]
A typical shaft gear is shown by Fig. 71, in which A is the bit ring,
B the noseband, C winkers, D cheeks, E ear-pieces, F throat-lash,
G head-strap, H forehead band, I reins, K collar forewale, K’ hame
straps, L hame or jambles, M collar body and side-piece, N collar
draught, O forecart saddle housing, P back housing, R cart saddle
skirt, S girth and girth straps, T crupper, U and V hip and loin
straps, W and X fore and aft breeching tugs, and Y breeching.
[Illustration:
Fig. 72. Fig. 73.
Figs. 72 and 73.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 74. Fig. 75.
Figs. 74 and 75.—Scotch Brass Gear Buckles.]
The ornaments used are brass buckles (Figs. 72 to 75) instead of
tinned or japanned buckles, with brass face-pieces (Figs. 76 to 78)
on the bridle to hang on the horse’s forehead, brass bells for the
bridle (Fig. 79), hame plates (Figs. 80 and 81) at the top of the
collar between the two points of the hames or jambles, with a strap
across from one hame point to the other to hold it in position, brass
squares, ovals (Fig. 82), octagons (Figs. 83 to 85), hearts (Fig. 86)
on bridle winker or saddle housing corners, and brass beading instead
of nails over the top of the housing where attached to the tree.
When making gears this must be remembered. Other details of cart
ornaments are shown in Figs. 87 to 92.
Cart and leading gear made according to the following directions will
be useful anywhere, and when this method has been learned any other
style can be made.
The winkers C (Fig. 71) must be prepared first; blocked winkers with
fancy pattern raised against the eye are little used nowadays. Main
winkers are just as safe for the eyes if well made. Special winker
leather must be obtained either from a middling in stock, or, cut to
pattern, from any currier or leather-seller.
[Illustration:
Fig. 76. Fig. 77.
Figs. 76 and 77.—Brass Face-pieces.]
Cut the pieces straight 7 in. by 7½ in., and mark three rows all
round the long side and across one of the shorter sides with the race
compass or racer, making the groove deep; edge them above and below
with the edge tool and black the edges. After soaking them well in
water, bend them along the centre of the longer width into something
that is nearly, though not quite, a semicircle. Nail them down in any
convenient way, with the raised part above, on a flat board and let
them dry in this shape; drive in the nails near the edges only at
the side that will be covered and stitched over with the cheek. They
can be put to dry near a stove or fire.
[Illustration:
Fig. 78. Fig. 79. Fig. 80. Fig. 81.
Fig. 78.—Brass Face-piece. Fig. 79.—Bells and Brush. Figs. 80 and
81.—Brass Hame Plates.]
Then run a big hot beveller round the edges and along the lines made
until the groove looks deep and polished. Having two ¾-in. roller
tinned buckles, or brass Scotch buckles, cut two chapes to the same
width. Chapes are pieces to hold on the buckles; the name is also
applied to the part going round buckles on any length of strap. The
chapes are made 3½ in. long and turned down 2 in. from one end; make
the short end very thin and the other end slightly so, then point the
piece. Cut a buckle hole at the bend, edge, crease, and prick for
stitching; then put the chapes in the buckles and make the tops of
these last flush with edge and front of winkers, working as follows:—
[Illustration:
Fig. 82. Fig. 83. Fig. 84. Fig. 85.
Fig. 82.—Brass Oval. Figs. 83 to 85.—Brass Octagons.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 86. Fig. 87. Fig. 88.
Fig. 86.—Brass Heart. Figs. 87 and 88.—Brass Stars.]
Tack the chape down in its place in the front corner where the
creasing on the edges meets, and stitch. With tinned buckles put on a
loop; Scotch buckles, as Figs. 72 to 75, do not need any; place the
other chape and buckle on the corner of the other winker and stitch
likewise, taking care to put it on the reverse corner to the other
to make the winkers pair.
[Illustration:
Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.
Figs. 89 and 90.—Brass Hame Knobs. Fig. 91.—Brass Swing.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 92. Fig. 93. Fig. 94.
Fig. 92.—Brass Swing. Fig. 93.—Ear-piece. Fig. 94.—Corner-piece.]
Now cut the cheeks D, or the pieces that run down the side of the
head, making them 2 ft. 2 in. by 1¼ in.; turn them down so as to
make both ends meet underneath in the centre, and give the bends in
each end a slight tap with the hammer. It is better to draw in the
underpart a little so as to have the top somewhat longer, because
as there is a bend in the winker outwards the lower side should be
a little shorter. Cut a hole for the buckle in one end and another
in the centre of the bend, which is also the centre of the strap, at
the other end; from this hole cut straight out to each side and shave
the edges of the cut. Edge the cheek on the outside only and race it
along the top part with the race compass; the second race must be
made close to the other, care being taken not to run them into one
another. Make another line a little more than ⅛ in. from the last,
blacken the edges and lines with black dye, and rub them with a rag;
then prick the two inner rows with the pricker, eight per inch, put
the buckle in its place and the bit ring A in the other end, and
stitch both ends of the cheek together. There are two bit rings on
each side, fastened together by a small link; one ring, that placed
in the cheek, is larger than the other. The smaller ring must be kept
for the bit after the completion of the bridle. Both cheeks are made
in the same way, but the slit from the centre hole in the bend must
be reversed, otherwise the cheeks will not pair.
The winkers C and cheeks D (Fig. 71) being ready, cut the nose-band B
about 2 ft. long and 2 in. wide; turn in both ends equally, leaving
about 1 ft. 4 in. for the noseband; shave the ends rather thin,
and make a punch-hole in the centre of the bend, then slit it out
straight from both holes on the same side, and shave the sides of the
slit.
Edge both sides of the nose-band where it is not double, and make two
rows along it with the race compass, deepening and polishing them
with the hot beveller, after which prick the double row on both sides
from the bend to the lined part.
The nose-band is now ready for adjustment at the proper time. The
forehead band H (Fig. 71), or front, must be cut about 2 ft. 3 in.
long and 1½ in. wide. Edge, crease, black, and rub it and pass a hot
beveller over the grooves. Cut the ear-pieces E (see also Fig. 93) 1½
in. wide and 9 in. long, and double and flatten the bend, shaving one
end well. Take a piece of any strap 1¼ in. wide, and put it in the
bend, close up; mark how far the inner side runs in the ear-piece,
the 1¼ in. strap being allowed to run smooth in the opening between
the line and the bend. Mark two rows of pricking, eight per inch, on
each side from the cross-mark to the point or end, having previously
made a double row of creasing all along. Stitch from the cross line
to the point with three-cord thread; stitch the cross line coarse,
about two stitches for one of the other stitches. Rub the edges,
making them even by cutting if necessary, then black and rub. Place
the forehead band H in position, and stitch it end to end with the
ear-pieces, and cut a small =V=-nick in the joint of each end on the
same side.
The object of the nick is to provide space for the small projection
in the tongue of the buckle when put into position. Some
harness-makers cut the end of the ear-pieces, before joining them to
the forehead, in a slightly slanting way in such a manner that the
end with the opening will turn up a little when in place, but this
is not essential. Moreover, if the forehead band is to be covered
with any kind of fancy cloth or leather, this covering had better be
done before the ear-pieces are stitched, because the work will be
much easier than when the bridle is completed. Cut the material, red
American cloth, leather, etc., double the width of the forehead, and
allow ½ in. more to go round the edges; finally, herring-bone-stitch
underneath along the centre, and stitch on the ear-pieces.
Corner-pieces (Fig. 94) are now required to support the nose-band
and to join it and the cheek well together when complete. They are
in one single piece near the bit ring corner, descending from cheek
to nose-band. To make the chin strap, cut it 1½ in. wide, one piece
being made 6 in. long, leaving 2 in. of the original width, and then
narrowing the rest to ¾ in. with a rounded point. The other part is
made 12 in. long, and 2 in. of the original width is preserved, the
rest being narrowed to ¾ in.; then turn down a chape and make a hole
for the buckle in the narrow end, after which edge, crease, and black
both, then adjust buckle and loop.
To put the bridle together ready for stitching, work as follows: With
a ring at one end and a buckle at the other, place the forehead band
between the cheeks in such a way that the centre where the forehead
band and ear-pieces join may be right under the centre of the buckle
with the nick against the tongue. Drive a tack on the inner side, and
put the nose-band in the same ring as the cheek at the other end,
with the slits made in the bends upwards; fix the corner-pieces one
part in the cheek and the other in the nose-band, sufficiently low
to catch when stitching the nose-band. The corner-pieces must, of
course, be placed between the two leathers, both in the cheeks and
nose-band: the inner side of the corner-piece must follow the ring in
the cheek like a half-circle.
The outer part is supposed to have been previously edged and creased.
The point of the slits in the nose-band comes underneath the slits in
the cheeks on both sides in such a way that the edges in the cheeks
may cover and neatly overlap the edges of the slit in the nose-band
and catch them during work of stitching the cheek. Both winkers
are now adjusted with buckles in the front corners, turned upwards
to meet each other; place the winkers close to the ear-pieces and
forehead, making the outside flush with the outer edge of the cheek.
Tack down the winkers, keeping the bend in shape as set after drying;
thus there is an opening between the two sides of the cheek from the
end of the corner-piece to the bottom of the winker.
Cut a piece of leather as near as possible of the same thickness as
the winkers and of the same width as the cheeks. Place it between the
two sides of the cheek to fill the hollow, and so have a firm cheek
all along; tack the piece down and see that it fits tight; there must
be no looseness where it joins the winker and corner-piece.
The chin strap is now adjusted, the wide end of the short piece being
placed inside the cheek under the centre filling for a distance
of about ¾ in. and about 1½ in. from the bottom ring. This is the
right-hand side, taking a front view of the bridle. The other piece,
with buckle, goes on the other side, and both are tacked down. When
two small loops are to be placed on each side near the buckle at
the top of the cheek they should be tacked down so that they may be
stitched in with the cheek; but for a long loop, adjust beforehand
on the cheek, by stitching the ends loosely together. Nail the
first side of the long loop and clinch the nails underneath over
a loop-stick, leaving this inside while nailing the other side in
the same manner, partly running over the ear-piece E (Fig. 71) and
forehead band H and partly over the winker.
Stitching may be begun on the near side at the ring, and continued
up to the loop on the outside; then begin at the loop on the outside
of the other cheek and stitch down to the ring. The outer row on
the inner side of the first cheek and of the second check is now
stitched. When stitching opposite the winkers on the inner line two
stitches may be made instead of one by slipping a stitch between
each; fine stitching is apt to cut the winkers, and they often fall
off before being worn out; consequently slipping a stitch is a good
method. A row must now be stitched on each side of the nose-piece in
each end, then the inner rows of the cheek, and finally the inner
rows of the nose-band. Level the edges of the cheeks and nose-band,
scrape them, and black the edges; then rub them with tallow and bone.
Having creased and finished the loops, make two basil pads as long
as the distance from the buckle to the bottom of the winkers. For a
cheek of 1¼ in., cut the pads 1 in. wider than twice the width; fold
them lengthwise so that the edges will meet in the centre, and stitch
the ends together with the basil inside out. Now, after turning them
inside out, stitch the edges together like the ends with pointed
needle, thimble, and white linen thread. Run the stitches from both
ends and leave an opening about 1 in. long in the middle, through
which ram in the flock stuffing, but not too hard. Having stitched
the opening, place this side against the cheek of the bridle under
the winker, and as far as the buckle; choose three nails having large
heads, run small tufts of flock to the heads of the nails, and fasten
the pads down firmly to the cheek by driving a nail in each end and
one in the centre, taking care that the points do not appear on the
other side; trim the flock on the nails with the scissors.
The winker straps are made as follows: Cut a strap 24 in. long and
1½ in. wide, then slit it exactly in the centre for 13 in., making a
punch hole at the end of the slit; shape the points of each slit to
go through the buckles on each winker, and make a cross line 1½ in.
from the end of the slit, marking it deeply. At a distance of 1½ in.
from this line make a second line, and a third 1⅝ in., making them
all deep; turn down the strap so that the centre of the bend will
be exactly at the last mark. Knock the bend flat if the point runs
beyond the end of the slit after turning down; cut some off and shave
it down; edge it on both sides except where the parts overlap. Crease
all along the edges, and make one or two rows with the screw-race;
then black, rub, and finish the creases. Leave an opening from the
bend to the next cross line, then put a piece of leather to fill the
space between the cross line and the next to it and wide enough to be
stitched through in working across; then leave the space between the
next two lines open, and stitch down the point of the bend from the
end to the cross line. Stitch along the pricked part and along the
cross lines, the stitches on the latter being twice as coarse as the
straight lines.
There should now be two openings, one at the end and the other beyond
the next stitched part; that at the end is for the throat lash F
(Fig. 71), and the other for the head strap G. Having rubbed the
edges and finished, cut the head strap 1 ft. 10 in. long and 1¼ in.
wide; narrow the ends for the passage of the buckle, crease, black,
and finish. Now cut the throat lash 3 ft. 8 in. long and 1¼ in. wide;
turn in 2 in. for the buckle at the best end and narrow the point to
enter the buckle at the other end; crease, black, finish, stitch on
the buckle and loop, and then finish the loop.
A rein is now cut 5 ft. long and 1¼ in. wide for the off side, and
another 2 ft. 4 in. long for the near side. Turn down the chape for
the buckle in the weakest end of the short rein, and 3 in. at the
best end of each to fasten to the ring at the bit; then edge crease,
finish, and stitch in the buckle and loop, also making a running loop
on the short rein. Now mark four rows of stitching on the double part
about to be stitched to the rings; stitch the shortest part of the
rein with the buckle to the ring hanging by a link from the cheek
ring on the right hand when looking at the front of the bridle, then
stitch the long rein to the ring on the other side. Make three punch
holes on each side of the head strap, equidistant from the point and
from each other, and then six holes in the throat lash, three in the
slits of each winker strap, and nine in the long rein.
The bridle being ready for adjusting, place the head strap up to
its centre in the opening next to the slit in the winker strap;
then fasten each end of the head strap to the cheek buckles through
the second holes. Now place the throat lash in the opening in the
ear-piece on the off side, running it through the outer opening in
the winker strap, down the opening in the other ear-piece, and then
through the buckle at the other end.
Buckle the winker strap slits to the winker buckles, pass them
through the loop, and buckle the rein in the sixth hole; this
completes the bridle. If it is to be polished, coated with jet, or
ornamented, this must be done before putting the parts together.
Cut out all parts according to the dimensions given before beginning
to stitch; this is more workmanlike than cutting the parts as the
work proceeds.
CHAPTER VI.
CART COLLARS.
In making a cart collar (see Fig. 95) the first part to take in hand
is the forewale A; the material for this must always be cut 8 in.
longer than double the length of the collar when finished, to allow
for shrinkage. Supposing the collar is to be 20 in., the leather must
be cut 48 in. long. The leather can be cut from the bellies of gear
hides, which come in handy when proper hide is not available. Cut it
7½ in. wide and make the length to meet requirements, and then damp
it thoroughly. Stretch it on a flat board by holding one edge with
the hand and pulling the other edge with the pincers. Fold it over 2¾
in. all along; adjust the compass by rule to 2¼ in., and mark from
the turned side, so that there will be ¼ in. of leather outside the
mark on which to stitch the lining. On the opposite side there will
be about 2 in. to draw in the body B and stitch the side-pieces. Tack
along the mark here and there to keep it in its place.
[Illustration: Fig. 95.—Cart Collar without Side-piece.]
Make a ten-strand thread, waxing it before and after twisting. This
thread must be long enough to stitch all the length, and at least
twice as long as ordinary thread. Use strong needles, making about
three stitches to the inch; always leave the stitches slack, merely
drawing them home, especially for about a foot on each side of the
centre. Thus the forewale will bend easier in working round, and
the stitches will tighten enough in stuffing. If the leather has an
uneven grain, close here and open there, a piece of calico slack may
be put inside the forewale A; take care that both sides of it are
caught in stitching. This will help to keep it straight even when
being stuffed.
The forewale is now ready for stuffing. Having a bundle of rye
straw at hand, pull a few handfuls across the knee until the straw
is straight; cut the ears off, and then cut the handful of straw
in half, and again divide it with the collar knife until about 9
in. long. Place it neatly in a heap near the working-seat on the
right-hand side, with the collar rod and mallet lying close by; there
must also be a thick, solid block of wood placed on the firm ground
in front of the worker’s seat.
The collar-maker must now sit down and mark the centre of the leather
with a nick or stitch. The forewale is now placed on the block, and
the left foot laid on it, about 2½ in. from the centre, the folded
part of the forewale being furthest. Put the other end on the right
knee, and, holding the collar rod in the left hand point upwards
with the head against the knee, take about half a dozen cut straws,
and give them a half twist with both hands. Place the centre of the
wisp in the nick of the collar rod and hold it firm with the right
hand, the forewale being handled with the left. Put the straw in
the forewale and press it down to where the foot is on the block,
2½ in. from the centre; beat the wisp well on the block with the
mallet, leather as well, and then put another wisp in from the other
end, taking care, when putting in the wisps, that they do not catch
those already inside and drive them back; to avoid this, beat well
after each wisp has been put in, and when the iron reaches them raise
the point a little. Continue to work in this way, putting in wisps
alternately at each end until the forewale is as hard as it can be
made. When the straw seems firm enough not to move, the wisps can be
knocked in instead of being pushed by hand. See that they go into the
centre of the straw. Push the straw and rod down the centre as far
as possible; turn the forewale and the rod with the point upwards,
knocking the wisp in firmly against the collar block in front.
Repeat the process from the other side, and so on until all is as
hard as a piece of wood. To shape and round the collar it must be
continually turned round the knee, turning one side to the right and
the other to the left hand. This operation is repeated after every
one or two wisps are put inside; take care that the forewale does not
get straight. When turned enough, three or four wisps may be put into
each side before changing; but both sides must be shaped alike.
When approaching the top, shape it inwards a little in the same way
as it was turned; fill with straw until the top is quite firm, and
then place it flat on the block, beating it well into shape with the
round mallet, and holding it down with both knees at one end while
shaping the other. Now damp it, and turn it backwards a little at
the top on both sides; stitch both points firmly together with waxed
twine and collar needle and hand iron, cutting a little off when
necessary to bring it to the right length.
To make a pipe collar, follow all the above directions and proceed
as below. Obtain a piece of iron 9 in. long, ½ in. in diameter, and
having a sharp point; in the middle it must be shaped half-round,
with the points turning a little outwards and upwards. Put straw
around it, tying it as tightly as possible to within 2 in. from each
point, and let the straw at each end be of different lengths, a few
inches longer than the points of the iron, so that it will splice
well when stuffing is commenced. Add straw, and tie again until the
straw around the iron is the right size, then place it in the centre
of the forewale, and stitch as tightly as possible, pulling the
stitches well; make sure that it fills the forewale well, but having
passed this part, leave the stitches slack. Now stitch from end to
end, and stuff from each end as in the other case, remembering to
splice them well where the iron ends; the sharp point will not be
much of a hindrance. Finish as with the other collar.
In making the body of the collar, cut the lining to Fig. 96, and in
any required size; 14 in. is about the average at the draught when
the strain of pulling is on the collar. Cut a leather throat-piece
about 2 in. wide at the base, and widening out to 3½ in. in a sweep
to the top. Stitch the narrowest end of the lining, which is about 4½
in. deep, to the sweep of the throat-piece, turning in a little of
the linen or woollen check to make the part under the stitches strong.
The narrowest part of the centre of the throat-piece must now be
tacked to the exact centre of the collar by the stitches, putting the
edge even with the rim of leather running inside from the stitches.
Add another tack without pulling at the lining, but leaving it rather
slack from the centre, just at the part where the forewale begins to
run straight upwards. Another tack is now placed within 5 in. from
the top on both sides, and the lining pulled tightly to there from
the bottom, the edges being turned in all round.
Basil is employed for part of the lining in some localities; about 6
in. is measured from the top of the collar. A pattern of the lining
must be cut out of brown paper, and then the basil can easily be
made to fit the shape of the linen lining; the basil must be whipped
in with white linen thread and the linen turned in a little under the
stitch, being rubbed flat afterwards. The lining being ready, make a
four-cord thread of black-wax, cut it in two, and thread a harness
needle with half. Having a suitable awl, whip the lining in all round
through the leather rim above the stitches inside the forewale;
the stitches of course must be inside, and should be well rubbed.
Everything is now ready for making the body. Wax some strong twine or
make a long beeswax thread, with four or five strands, 3½ yds. long,
and have another about 1½ yd. long with six or seven strands.
[Illustration: Fig. 96.—Cart Collar Lining.]
Now a strong old strap, 1 ft. long, with a buckle is wanted; this is
called the throat strap. The hand-iron, a medium-sized collar needle,
seat-awl, scissors, and collar knife being placed near at hand, get a
bundle of rye or wheat straw, preferably rye, and place it straight
together by the side of the stool, with a sheet of drummed flock or
basket of carded flock all within reach. As during work the legs are
placed inside the collar, making it awkward for the operator to move,
it is well to have handy a flat-headed mallet besides the collar
mallet. Thread the collar needle with the shortest thread and hang it
close by, and having pulled a big handful of straw from the bundle,
sit down and put the right leg through the collar lining, the throat
being placed upwards.
Place the middle of the handful of straw exactly in the centre of
the throat-piece, between it and the forewale; then take the needle
and thread it, the hand-iron being in the right hand. Make a stitch
from the centre of the throat over the straw to the big margin of
leather on the other side; make another stitch at the same place to
keep the throat in the centre, and more stitches, about 1½ in. apart,
for about 6 in. up one side from the middle towards the left. Fasten
the thread and cut it, turn the collar with the other side facing
you, and stitch it again on this side exactly like the first, taking
great care to make both sides similar in shape and size.
Take the stuffing-stick and fix a wisp of straw on the point, beating
it along to the centre of the straw and a little beyond the centre of
the throat. Place a similar one on the opposite side, and so continue
until the bottom part is firm and hard. Now lay it on the block,
with the lining on the top, and pull the lining outwards as much
as possible. Hold it by the knees, one on each side, and beat the
throat outwards as far as possible with the round collar mallet. Put
the throat strap round it and the forewale, pulling it as tightly as
possible to keep it in position while making the other part. Now take
a wisp of straw, large enough to fill the body of the collar pretty
well, cut it square at one end, so as to get almost the full bulk at
the section, and see that it is long enough to go the full length of
the collar body.
Wrap a piece of hemp five or six times round the part just cut,
making it firm for about 6 in. along, and somewhat pointed. Run the
long thread through the needle, and put both knees through the collar
with the lining towards you. Open the lining flat as it lies on the
knee and raise the straw issuing from the throat so as not to be in
the way; then cut a piece of drummed flock to the same size as the
lining, to come within an inch or so of the edge. Take care to place
it level in all parts, reaching well down towards the throat and
forewale. Cut another handful of straw and put it over the flock
opposite the draught and as near as possible to the forewale.
Open the straw running from the throat in the centre, and put the
long tied wisp inside, ramming it as near as possible to the throat;
pull the lining over the straw from the top to the bottom, and then
pass the seat-awl through the lining and leather to fasten the top.
Turn the collar the other way about, put both legs in again, and
begin to draw in the lining where the bottom stitching left off.
Now lace it from bottom to top, running the needle from lining to
leather and leather to lining till finished. Draw the stitches as
tightly as possible, pulling each to tighten the other, as in lacing
a boot. So far, the collar is neither hard enough nor shapely enough;
the straw must therefore be beaten down between the lacing. To do
this, the mallet must be grasped round the handle close to the head,
and the straw struck as hard as possible with the handle.
Having improved the shape of the collar, begin to tighten the lacing
again from end to end, keeping the desired shape constantly in mind.
If the collar is not firm enough, begin work at the bottom, ramming
down some wisps towards the throat from between the stitches, and
continue this until the draught is reached, shaping as well as
stuffing. It may be hardened, from the draught up to the top, by
driving some wisps from the extreme top, and shaped by tightening or
slackening the lacing, as the work demands.
Great attention must be given to shaping, for a well-shaped body is
very important from the point of view of both utility and appearance;
it should be graceful and rounded at the bottom and somewhat flat at
the draught, gradually growing narrow towards the top. At the extreme
tip, however, the collar should be rather full, with extra flock to
ease the neck. Work in the same manner with the other side, using as
nearly as possible the same amount of flock and straw; take care to
obtain the same shape and size.
If any lumps can be felt in the flock, loosen and level it with the
seat-awl by stuffing it off or on as required; beat it slightly all
round to give it a smooth appearance. Cut the straw at the top,
turning the lining down out of the way; beginning close to the
forewale, cut it slanting upwards a little towards the back. Make two
or three long stitches in each side through the lining on both sides
and the straw to pull the linings together. Then stitch together the
two sides, drawing the lining over the outer side; run the stitches
through from side to side and cut the spare lining at the top; this
completes the work. Trim the points of the forewale previously
stitched, and cut them into a neat point, which should be neither
long nor sharp.
Having cut a piece of soft leather, form it into a cap reaching low
enough to cover the stitches that join the point on each side; stitch
the front with a welt between the edges long enough to reach the back
under the forewale, so that a stitch can be put through it there when
stitching the cap. This last must be long enough to come over the
point of the body behind; damp the cap and put it in its place. Take
a lace and the collar needle, draw it down tightly into the hollow
between the body and the forewale, then stitch through it, burying
the welt underneath to fasten the cap in front by a stitch.
The other part must be stitched with a lace all round over the top of
the body; make the point of the forewale very prominent to hold the
hame strap.
Two 1½-in. straps, 18 in. long, must now be cut; race the edges and
blacken them, point them for the buckle, and punch four holes in
each, and another hole in each corner at the opposite end and one in
the centre 2½ in. from the end. The four holes in the forepart are
to fasten the buckles to the crupper or cart-saddle and the others to
stitch to the collar. Place one on each side of the collar down to
the forewale 5 in. from the top. Fasten them with lace by stitching
through the hollow between the forewale and collar body, putting two
stitches through and through to the other side; then send the collar
needle in the direction of the other hole in the centre of the strap,
and make one stitch from each side of the strap through this hole;
fasten the lace well and cut it.
[Illustration: Fig. 97.—Cart Collar Side-piece.]
Pieces of leather of the shape shown by Fig. 97 are now required
to cover the side of the body. The pattern can be cut out of brown
paper according to the made body and kept for other work. Cut the
paper close to the rim all round to cover the body full in all parts
outside, but a little wider and pointed at the top to keep rain-water
off and give a good appearance. Cut one side only at a time, and,
as the two sides join in the centre at the top and bottom, cut the
top slanting downwards towards the forewale to the same shape as the
body, and line the top for about 1 ft. downwards on each side with
firm leather; shave it on the inner side and bottom.
The pieces need not be so wide as the side-piece; half its width or
a little more will do. Make three rows of stitching, and join them
together at the lower part along the lined part; the distance between
the rows should be about 1 in., with nine stitches per inch. Rub the
side-pieces and blacken them; crease two rows with a screw-crease all
round the outer side not stitched. When cutting, take care to have
the best part under draught. Join the two sides together at the top
with stitch after stitch from one to the other, thus drawing them
close end to end.
Crease and prick a 1¼-in. piece of leather, cutting it to the same
length as the joint, and thinning it towards the collar end; the
other outer end must be shaped to the point of the joint. Now tack
the piece and stitch, keeping it quite over the centre of the joint,
and making the stitches exactly at the same distance on both sides;
it is well to put a bit of thin lining underneath the stitches. Damp
the side-pieces well in water, and have a long lace ready to run the
side-piece in; damp and grease it, and have it long enough to go all
round the collar if possible, with sufficient to spare for fastening.
Take out the side-pieces, beat the water from the leather, and fasten
the pieces to the centre on top with a big strong awl or seat-awl.
Pull them together as tightly as possible from top to bottom; let
them overlap about 3 in. at the bottom, shave the leather down a
little here, and fix the pieces in place with the awl. Then see that
they are in the right position, not too near nor too far from the
forewale; put an awl on each side near the draught to keep them in
position there.
Begin lacing them in at the throat-piece, making the stitches 2 in.
or 2½ in. apart, at about the same distance from the edge all round;
be sure to catch the lining underneath with each stitch. Then take
another long lace and pull it in at the throat; draw it close to the
forewale all round till the point of commencement is reached, running
a stitch over the edge of the side-piece, and catching the leather
everywhere by the forewale; the stitches should be about 1½ in.
apart.
Some harness makers run a piece of leather about 13 in. under the
draught, fasten it with a few stitches to the collar body in the
lower part, and spot with lace to the side-piece all round the top
part; coarse flock, or anything which will keep the chains from the
horse’s shoulder when pulling, being employed for stuffing; but this
will not be necessary if the body of the collar is well made. Others
make the side-piece without lining, using instead a round piece of
leather with canes round the rim, covering them with leather stitched
on both sides to protect the shoulders and collar from wet. They are
stitched with lace to the collar.
Experience, however, has demonstrated that neither the horse nor the
collar is any the worse without such a device. In other localities
the housing and side-piece are cut in one piece—a poor imitation of
a Scotch collar—and stiffened all round with cane; this involves a
great waste of leather, and is unnecessary.
CHAPTER VII.
CART SADDLES, REINS, ETC.
The saddle is another important part of cart harness. To make a
saddle for a horse about 15½ hands high will need a tree (Fig. 98)
measuring 14 in. across the board right through the centre. It may
have an iron plate for the back chain covering entirely the top of
the tree, or only partially covering it, but with plates at the
point and one in the centre of the groove. The plate can be removed
from the first kind of tree when making the saddle, but the partial
plates are permanently riveted with an iron pin. If the board across
the tree is very long it may be sawn off at each end, but never at
one end only. Saw off the same length at each end; a 1-ft. board is
always long enough.
The tree can be obtained also in the pattern required for nailing
housings (leather covers) on the bridge of the tree at the top, or
with a projection running along both sides lower down for nailing. If
the housings are nailed at the side, the width need not be so great
as when nailed on the top; the part of the tree above must be covered
with thin leather, nailed under the housing at the lower edge, damped
and rubbed down close to the tree and nailed at the very top.
The panel (Fig. 99) can be made when the tree is ready. From the
middle of each side cut the panel-back about ½ in. longer than the
boards and 2 in. wider than the central width of the board. Leave the
space between the middle lines of stitches about 2 in. wider in front
than at the back to prevent the shoulder-bone of the horse being
caught when carrying a weight. Cut both sides alike, reversing the
pattern to pair them. Then whip them together along the centre and
shorten the panel-back in front by cutting from the point, slanting
inwards and upwards in the fore part.
When the sides are joined, rub the stitches flat and put pieces of
leather, about 3 in. square, at each end at the positions of the
boards when the panel is in position; mark the back of the panel on
the spot to which the boards reach and then adjust the pieces of
leather, stitching them across, the marks being nailed as nearly as
possible in the centre of the board. These pieces are for nailing the
panel in place when completed.
[Illustration: Fig. 98.—Cart Saddle Tree.]
The panel must now be laid flat on the flannel check or linen lining,
which is cut about ½ in. larger than the back. As the panel is wider
in front, the lining must be slit in the centre of the front as far
as the point where the panel begins to widen; then cut a piece of the
same material of the necessary width in front and narrowing towards
the back. Whip this piece to the lining, turning down the edges of
both while stitching. The extra ½ in. beyond the size of the back is
now turned in, and a coarse stitch run all round.
The leather basil facing for the panel is now cut about 2¾ in. wide,
then whipped in all round the lining, being joined and stitched in
the centre of each side. Rub the stitches flat, and cut the lining
down round the back to about 2 in. wide, from the centre on each
side. Then, when stuffed, the panel will be somewhat thicker in the
front than at the back, and will not sink down and press on the
shoulder-bones under a load. Now cut about 1¼ in. from the front
part of the facing opposite the widening piece stitched to the
lining; cut it about 4½ in. long, gradually slanting it out towards
the ends, and cut about 2 in. at the back in a similar style. Tack
the facing round the back, centre to centre, and both inside out; run
it with coarse stitches, about three to the inch, keeping the edges
together; it can be either spotted or stitched double. Now well damp
the back of the panel and the basil facing with sponge and water.
With scissors cut an opening in the lining exactly in the centre of
the panel and just large enough to allow it to be turned inside out;
the cut must run along the panel, not across. This opening can be
utilised for stuffing, but if it is necessary to make the cut longer
than is required for this, let the opening be made a little shorter
at each end so that the slit will be in the centre of the length.
Put a line on each side of the stitches in the joining of the back,
about 1½ in. on each side at the back, and then gradually widen
from halfway to the front until it is about 2¼ in. on each side of
the stitches. Tack the lining underneath, making it tight and flat
between the two lines and keep the slit in the centre, so as to have
the lining distributed equally on both sides of the centre of the
joining in the back.
Now take a wisp of straw, about 9 in. long, and wrap it round with
hemp, making it firm and slightly thicker than a finger; tie the
centre of the wisp for about 5 in. and place its centre against that
of the panel in the gullet at the front, and draw the facing tight
for the distance between the two lines just made. Stitch it from
above tightly round the wisp with a spot stitch to keep the gullet
open and from the shoulder.
The lining must now be spot-stitched on the back along the two lines
which have been marked, the needle being passed up and down through
both. Leave an opening of the same length as the slit, and carry the
thread on the leather side from end to end of the slit so that the
panel can be stuffed through.
To stuff the panel, place it on the bench in front, with the lining
uppermost. Drive a stout clout nail with a head into each corner,
and one into each end of the stitches in the side opposite the outer
corners, the other side of the panel being allowed to hang over the
bench, and the slit in the lining running along the edge of the
bench. Having a heap of straw cut to the same length as the panel
close by, and grasping the stuffing stick in the right hand, lay a
wisp across the front and push it to its position with the stick.
Lay another across the back, and work it through the hole with the
fingers; then use the stick to drive it against the facing inside.
[Illustration: Fig. 99.—Cart Saddle Panel.]
A third wisp must now be placed in the side farthest from the
operator, and worked into place with the right hand and stick, the
left hand being employed to keep the straw in position. Wisp after
wisp can now be added along the front until the side is filled, but
no more straw is put in the ends after the first wisp.
Beat the panel level and flat with the collar mallet, and run a piece
of leather of the same width as the opening and about 9 in. long
inside the slit for about half the length between the straw and the
lining; this will clear the opening for the flock. Have a hamper full
of carded flock, and put a thick, even layer over the straw, and
press it down with a stick or seat iron to the edges and corners,
making it as smooth as possible; then beat it again with the mallet,
and use a seat awl to level the surface, feeling for lumps with the
left hand. Work in the same way on the other side to complete the
panel.
A dock to fasten the crupper to the saddle is placed across from
board to board at the back. Two 1¾ in. tinned rings are needed, and
the leather must be cut 1½ in. wide, and doubled to reach on each
side as far as half the width of the board. It is better to make the
dock in four thicknesses, running double through the rings. Insert
these, one at each end, and drive a clout nail through each extremity
and clinch it on a piece of iron; put one or two nails in the centre,
the points being shaved to make a good joint in the leather. Spot it
with white lace, or stitch it coarse with strong thread, a row on
each side. Trim the edges, and black and rub it with tallow.
Take two fine-pointed staples, and, with the dock in its place, mark
the position with the points of the staples. Make holes for these
with a gimlet half-way between the tree and the end of the board.
Run the staples through the ring and knock them down in the holes
until about ¾ in. shows on the other side; turn the points and knock
them against the iron level with the board, turning in the tips a
little to enter the board. The dock must be slack, with at least the
same sweep from board to board as there is in the tree. Some harness
makers nail to the centre of the tree a 2-in. strap, about 10 in.
long, for fastening the crupper. This device can be adopted instead
of the dock, and a buckle put on the crupper; with a dock the crupper
goes round it.
The flaps to protect the horse’s side from the back trace reach from
end to end of the boards on each side of the saddle. Cut them 9 in.
deep more or less, according to needs, making them ½ in. longer at
each end at the top than the boards. Swell them out at the sides
from the top and round the corners at the bottom, and cut a fancy
point in the centre of the lower side.
Now hold them against the board with the same length exactly over
each end, and mark the width of the tree on both sides on the flaps.
At the marks cut a slit about ¾ in. deep towards the near edge, and
turn the leather inwards between the cuts in the centre. Knock it
down between the slits, and cut a hole to admit the 1½-in. girth or
strap at about the middle of the flap on each side just opposite the
junction of the boards and the tree; as there will be two girths, a
strap will run from each end of the board. Edge the flaps and holes
all round on both sides, and make two or three rows round them with
the race compass; finish them with a hot iron after having blacked
the edges. Reverse the cuts in cutting the flap to catch at the top
on the boards, as these may not be the same length, back and front,
over the trees, and there may be a difference in the positions of the
holes for the girth.
The girths and straps must be made from good leather, the fore girth
being 4 ft. 10 in. and the hind 5 ft. 2 in. long, an allowance of 2
in. being made to turn down for the chape. The fore strap must be
1 ft. 6 in. long and the hind 1 ft. 8 in.; the width of girth and
straps is 1¼ in. to 1¾ in. Edge the girths along both sides, and turn
down the chapes and shape the points of the straps. Leave the best
end of each girth and strap for nailing to the tree; put two rows
along the edge with a race compass and bevel with a hot iron. Stitch
the buckles and make the loops, adding two running loops; finish the
loops with a loop-stick, and then crease them. Black the edges before
using a hot beveller and cut four or five holes in the straps.
Now take the flaps and place the slit in the centre opposite the
tree, and turn down the part below, thus having about an inch of
leather on the board under the slit. Drive a saddler’s tack in each
end of the board; do this gently to avoid splitting. Put the shorter
strap in front and the longer behind into the flap hole from above so
as to bring the square end out at the top between the flap and the
board. Adjust both in the same manner, and put four or five nails
along the edge of the flap and board, taking care to drive two of
them through the straps and flap; finally put another nail in the
centre of the strap above the edge of the flap. Add the girths on the
other side in the same way, and see that the straps are on the near
side and the girths on the off, and that the longer of each set is
behind.
It is not difficult to determine which is the front of the tree
because in this part the boards rise a little and converge towards
each other. Sometimes, instead of cutting a hole, a leather loop is
stitched on the flap with an opening wide enough to admit straps and
girths.
The girths, flaps, and dock are now put in position. Then place
the front of the panel against that of the tree, and press it in
the centre just against the top of the tree. Having the pieces to
be nailed on the centre of the board stitched to the panel, fasten
them to this part with four or five small tacks, making sure that
the panel lies close. Deal with the hind part of the panel in the
same manner. Some harness makers always run a piece of lace from the
centre of the panel to the centre of the tree in front, where it is
nailed close to the tree.
The next operation is to cut the housings (Figs. 100 and 101) or
cover for the saddle top; the width must be 5 in. to 7 in., and the
length sufficient to reach from end to end over the tree by the side
of the groove on each side. The length can be measured with string.
Do not cut the ends square to the measurement, but bulge and round
them so that they are 3 in. more along the centre. Narrow the front
housing (Fig. 101) slightly for about 10 in. in the centre so
that it will rise there, and cut the part to be nailed at the back
as before, namely about 6 in. wide on each side from the centre,
narrowing to a sharp point at the lower end. The back housing (Fig.
100) being straight on the outside, begin to cut on the side about to
be nailed from the corners upwards, narrowing an inch from the corner
until it comes to a point in the middle. This improves the appearance
and lifts the front from the shoulder, the back being thus made to
match the entire piece. Make three rows around the edges with a race
compass and run the lines deep with a beveller.
[Illustration: Fig. 100.—Cart Saddle Hind Housing.]
A brass oval or octagon may be placed on each corner of the housings
at equal distances from the edge and end. Put these pieces in
position and nail them to the tree through the centre; then tighten
them at each end with the seat awl or other strong awl, pulling
down hard from the centre and driving in a nail on each side while
tightening. Drive nails all along about 2 in. apart, being careful to
make the edge of the housing quite flush with the edge of the tree
so as to obtain the proper shape. The nails can then be covered with
brass beading ⅞ in. wide, or a welt of the same width may be nailed
down with brass or japanned head nails. Seven or eight stitches, nine
per inch, must now be put in the lower part of the housing at the
four ends through the flap, and will thus bind all neatly and firmly.
For the cart-saddle crupper, the body must be cut 2 ft. 6 in. or 2
ft. 8 in. long and 3½ in. to 4 in. wide; cut a semicircle in the
centre from the weak end, a point about ¾ in. wide being left at
each side of the semicircle, and then cut an 8-in. piece to line
with this end. Next cut a piece of leather ⅞ in. wide and 8½ in.
long, shaving the ends thin. Stitch it with the edges together so as
to make it round to within 1½ in. from each end. A cord or bit of
leather may be placed in the centre to reinforce this; then rub it
round and blacken it, and flatten both ends out with a hammer; this
is for hanging the saddle on a peg.
The body that was cut first must now be pointed at the square end,
the width being reduced to about 2 in., the same cut being made on
each side. Race it along the sides and ends, then edge, black, and
run a hot iron over the creases. Now prick it, about nine per inch,
as far as the termination of the lining from the semicircle.
The ends of the round piece lately made are brought together and put
under the points, one on each side; place the lining under them, and
stitch it all round and across the points from side to side with a
three-cord black wax thread, and trim, black, and rub the edges. Cut
the lay 1 in. narrower than the body and 3 ft. long; turn it in 10
in. at the strong end and beat it flat. Turn it down 2 in. at the
other end, and cut it slanting down to 1½ in. wide for a buckle of
the same width; cut a hole for the buckle and run a line across the
broad end 2 in. from the point, another in the same direction ¼ in.
from the end of the bend underneath, and a third 2½ in. from this
part towards the buckle. Edge only the top, just reaching over the
end of the broad bend; then make two lines of creasing and run a hot
iron over them.
Inner lines are made about ¼ in. from the innermost line, from the
first cross line to the second, and from the third to the buckle.
Two spaces are left for openings for the hip straps, one in the
bend and the other in the middle; black and prick the parts to be
stitched, four lines between the two openings and four lines from
the other side of the second opening in the direction of the buckle.
Fix the buckle in place and lay it flat in the centre of the body,
the extremity of the broad end of the lay reaching the edge of the
semicircle; tack it down and stitch, keeping it well in position
while working. Stitch coarse or spot along the three marked lines
near the openings. The body is now finished.
[Illustration: Fig. 101.—Cart Saddle Front Housing.]
A pad or panel is next needed. Cut some thick felt to the same
width as the body, and long enough to reach from the point of the
semicircle to 2 in. beyond the cross line near the buckle; cover it
with basil, and coarse-stitch it with a pointed needle along the
centre. Turn the ends neatly over the felt and fasten; then with
stitches put it in place next the crupper body. Tack down each end,
and run four or five stitches here and there through the body and
panel; make sure that the work is well secured at each corner. Cut
a hole through the body exactly opposite the buckle 1½ in. wide and
broad enough to pass the strap; this is made 9 in. long, pointing one
end and shaving the other. Crease and black it, and stitch the shaved
end against the narrowed end of the body. When finished and punched,
this will go round the dock in the saddle and fasten to the buckle on
the lay, running down through the hole made in the body.
Sometimes, instead of the opening in the bend, an iron dee is
employed for the crupper, and the hip straps are fastened thereto, a
strap about 20 in. long being used on each side of the dee. This is
a matter of taste, but care must be taken that the measurement from
the second cross line to the extreme end of the dee, when the lay is
turned down, equals what it would be to the extreme end of the bend.
To make the breeching, cut the body, if possible, 7 ft. 4 in. long
and about 4 in. wide. Turn it down to 4 ft. 10 in. long, the strong
end less than the weak; edge and black, and crease two rows along the
edges. Shave the ends, and mark a cross line about 1½ in. from the
centre of the bend on both sides and at each end of the body.
Now cut some pieces 1 ft. long for lining between the two marks in
the bend and shave their ends; bend them flesh outwards, leaving one
end about 1 in. shorter than the other; otherwise it will be bulky
when inside the breeching. Put it inside the bend after pricking the
second row along the part having the leather doubled, and across the
bend from one cross line to the other. When this lining has been
tacked in the bend, stitch from row to row; this is the eye for the
bridgeband pin used for fastening the chain. Trim the edges of the
bend, blacken, and rub them with tallow and a bone; then tack down
the double part as far as it goes. If, after being lined, the bend is
rather hard, beat it with a wooden mallet and stitch the double part
along both the ends and sides; then trim, black, and rub the edges.
The body is now ready for the lay, which must be of the same length
and 1 in. narrower; edge, crease, and black it all along, and make
another line with the compass ¼ in. from the inner line of the
crease. Prick the two innermost lines nine to the inch, and turn down
the lay at both ends to the same extent as the body. Shave the ends
and tack the lay in the centre of the body, the light end of the lay
being placed against the heavy end of the body and inversely; pull it
down close over the ends of the body and tack it in place.
Stitch all along the pricked part from end to end to the cross
lines, and spot or stitch cross lines, making the stitching bulge
inwards at the middle to the extent of about 1 in. Make a hole
with a large punch exactly in the centre where the stitches bulge
inwards, and then, holding the round knife firmly in the hand, cut
out straight at each side to remove a piece that allows the chain to
enter and catch the pin. Cut another hole in the centre 1 ft. 4 in.
from the ends by punching a hole 1½ in. farther on; then remove the
part between the holes by two cuts, allowing space for the 1½-in. tug
to go through.
Prepare the two bridgeband pins and four 1½-in. buckles to match
those on the saddle and crupper. The pins have a dee at one end, and
at the other a screw-thread with nut and washer to fix it in place.
Two hind tugs 1 ft. 8 in. long must be cut from the leather, 6 in.
being turned down at each end to meet the point; make a buckle hole
in the weak end of each, and black, crease, and rub them. Prick the
tugs from where the chapes leave the bridgeband to the loop or to the
part which will have the loop. Place the strong end in the hole in
the centre of the bridgeband from underneath, so that the joint will
be in the front under the loop, and put a buckle on the other end.
Make a loop about 2½ in. long and sufficiently wide to go round the
two thicknesses of the strap. Make two rows of creasing, one at each
end, and stitch the sides loosely together; then put the loop on the
tug and stitch the end of the tug. Pull the loop over the joint and
keep this and the stitches out of sight in the centre of the strap.
A safe must now be cut sufficiently long to run from the body of
the bridgeband to an inch beyond the end of the buckle at the top
and ½ in. wider on each side of the tug. Narrow the bottom to the
width of the tug and shave it; round the other end, putting a loop
on its extreme point in the centre, both the ends meeting. Stitch it
for about 1½ in. along both sides through the safe; put the 1½-in.
loop-stick in it, and black, crease, and finish. In the next place
put the 1½-in. iron loop-stick in the long loop on the tug and beat
it gently until it is quite flat and square. Fasten it securely from
underneath with about five nails on each side, clinching them against
the iron loop-stick inside. Crease this again with a hot iron and put
a fancy stamp with the maker’s name or a neat creasing in the centre.
Then put the safes in their places, fixing the loops on their ends
just against the buckle at the top, and stitch the safe along the
part pricked from the loop to the body of the bridgeband. Make two
or four rows and strong cross-stitch the tug at the bottom. Now run
a row of stitches across the top of the tug through the safe between
the buckle and the loop.
Make both the tugs alike, and to prepare the tugs for the pins
the loop is made as before, but it must be shorter because the
tug with the dee-pin should have the same length from the body of
the bridgeband as the hind tugs. Join the ends and make the safes
similar, creasing the loops to a similar pattern; in fastening the
safe to the tug, however, stitch a row only across the bottom and top
of the tug, as it will be too short for more. Two loin straps 3 ft.
8 in. long by 1½ in. wide must be cut to fasten to the tugs and pass
through openings in the crupper; point at each end, crease double at
each side, edge, black, pass a hot iron along the creases, and make
six or seven holes in each end to complete them.
The parts next to be made are a leading rein, a 1-in. strap with a
billet and buckle at one end and a chain with a spring hook, called
a cheek, at the other. Black and crease the rein, and then stitch on
the buckles, billet, and chain.
The billet is the piece of leather stitched under or behind the
buckle for fastening this particular end to any object. Make the
billet 1 ft. long. The full length of the rein must be about 8 ft. 6
in.; the chain by which it is fastened to the horse’s mouth is put
through the near ring and secured with a spring hook to the opposite
ring. The billet end is fastened to the crupper of the leader or the
shaft horse. This is very useful when horses take fright, as the
driver may then be able to catch the rein and pull them in, though
unable to reach their heads.
The 1¼-in. hame straps are simple straps with a buckle and loop at
one extremity, the other end being pointed with holes. Their length
is about 1 ft. 8 in.; they are employed to secure the hames at the
top.
Some harness-makers, for the purpose of ornament, make, for cart
horses, a breast-plate which extends from the bottom of the hames
and collar to the fore girth of the saddle or to the belly-band of
a leader. It is made of leather, bound with red or yellow leather
or American cloth, and the sides are scalloped, and have two or
three face-pieces placed opposite the swell in the scallop, these
face-pieces being a little narrower than the leather. A narrow strap
runs from underneath through a hole, catching a loop at the top of
the face-piece, and then down through another hole, and so on to the
next.
When the strap is run all along, fasten the end at the bottom, the
other extremity being secured by the billet, and buckle to the hames
at the top. Run a strap about 2 ft. long from the base of this
scalloped part, and furnish it with a buckle. Put it on the reverse
way and bring the other end through the buckle, fastening it thereto;
stitch the end to the bottom of the scalloped part, the other end
being furnished with a loop through which the girth may pass. The
part underneath the face-pieces may, before being bound, be covered
with coloured leather to give it a good appearance.
Now cut the cart belly-band 3 in. wide and 3 ft. 8 in. long; narrow
it down to 2 in. along a length of 6 in. at both ends, and, without
bending the band, cut a buckle hole about 3 in. from the point.
Make two billets 2 ft. 2 in. long and 2 in. wide, and edge, crease,
and black everything. Two loops must also be made about 1¾ in. wide.
Prick the billet, six per inch, for about 6 in. from the shaved end,
and adjust the buckle and billet, making the latter lap over the
buckle for 3 in. lower down. Place the loop about 1 in. from the
buckle, tack all down, and stitch with a six-cord black wax thread,
twice waxed; then make two or three stitches in the centre of each
end. Having opened and creased the loops, make four holes in the
billets; finally, give them a coat of Harris’s liquid or composition.
CHAPTER VIII.
FORE GEAR OR LEADER HARNESS.
The bridle and collar for a fore gear or leader harness must be made
in the way described in the previous chapters, and will require no
further explanation here.
The back-band A (Fig. 102), long crupper F, and belly-band D, still
need description, however. Cut the crupper from good leather 3 ft.
8 in. long and 5 in. wide, and make a split 9 in. long at the light
end and another, 7 in. long, at the tail end, leaving the points of
the slits in front of the full width, merely cutting a little out of
the corners. Narrow the points at the tail end gradually to about 1⅛
in., and cut a little from the sides of each slit. A piece of leather
must be cut to line a foot or so of the tail end, and a piece of soft
leather 16 in. by 3½ in. for a dock. Damp the dock well and turn down
both edges in such a manner as to overlap deeply along the centre,
the ends having been previously shaved thin.
Now bring both ends together, making both sides meet flat, but not
with the flat sides together; then, taking hold of the piece on the
flat in the centre, turn the lower edge inwards and upwards, still
keeping the points together with the other hand. Nail each point to
a board and keep all parts in shape until dry, when the dock will be
firm. Edge, crease, and black the body, making two rows all round,
rubbing the edges well and hot-creasing the lines. At the tail end
prick the second line as far as the double runs; if the dock is dry,
put it between the lining and body at each end of the slit. Tack it
down around the lining, and stitch.
A few egg-shaped stitches can be put inside the outer stitches
through the body and points of the dock to keep the last in place;
trim the edges, and black, rub, and tallow them, and do the same
inside the edges of the slits.
Cut two chapes to hold the buckles in front for fastening the crupper
to the collar straps; bend the chapes down about 4 in., shave one end
and point the other. Cut a hole for the buckle and prepare the chapes
for stitching; then, having two loops ready, about 1½ in. wide, tack
them in their places, keeping the outside of the buckle exactly level
with the end of each slit and the chapes right in the centre. Stitch
them down, put a cross stitch on each side of the buckle, and shape
and crease the loops. Now cut the crupper lay 1 ft. 3 in. by 3 in.,
and turn it down for about 1 ft. at the good end; shave the end of
the short turn thin, and round the other end; then edge, crease, and
black the lay.
Cut two hip straps H (Fig. 102) 2 ft. by 1½ in., and turn them down
for 3 in. at the heavy end; then shave the turn down, point the
buckle end, and crease and black the straps. Attach them to a 3-in.
japanned or tinned dee, one strap on each side; stitch four rows in
the double of each, and rub and finish the edge. Prepare two more
straps in the same manner, each 2 ft. 10 in. by 1¼ in., and stitch
them in the middle round part of the dee between the two other
straps. These are the carrier straps L (Fig. 102) for the stretcher;
the hip straps are for carrying the traces.
The straight part of the dee is now put in the bend of the lay and
placed on the centre of the crupper body at the same distance from
each side, the extreme point of the dee being within 8 in. from the
points of the tail slits. Tack down and stitch two rows ¼ in. apart
all round, eight per inch, with three-cord thread; then stitch the
lay coarse, or spot it across just to the dee. Some makers put a pad
under the crupper as with the cart-saddle crupper, running it from
the end of the tail slit to 1 in. beyond the point of the lay.
Hip-strap tugs K, must be made to buckle to the hip straps running
from the dee, and for hooking in the traces. Having a pair of 1½-in.
hip-strap chains (Figs. 103 and 104), cut the tugs 10 in. by 1½ in.;
bend them so that the points meet in the centre, and cut a hole for
the buckle in one end. Stitch the points together and put in two
narrow loops, one to be used to hide the joint, or have one single
broad loop for the same purpose. Place a safe underneath the same as
on the bridgeband fore tugs, but stitch it instead of nailing.
[Illustration: Fig. 102.—Set of Leader Gear.]
In the next place make the tugs for the stretcher carrier strap M
(Fig. 102), and a strap 1¼ in. by 1 ft. 2 in., and in the last bend
a chape, and cut a hole for the buckle. Stitch the buckle on with a
loop and make a running loop and a hole 1 in. from the point of the
strap.
When placing the carrier straps in position, fix a loop on each end
of the stretcher and nail the ends of the latter, leaving space for
the strap to pass. Run the strap down through this loop, the runner
loop having previously been put on the strap; then pass it through
the runner loop to the buckle, where it is fastened. Secure the
carrier straps to the same buckle over the carrier straps, bringing
their points down into the loop. Keep the runner loop down by the
stretcher to tighten the tug and to produce a neat finish.
The hip straps must now be buckled in the tug buckles, the hook
fastened to chain traces, and the collar straps buckled in the
fore-slit buckles. Whether the dock is put under the tail is
optional, because the hip straps, when fastened in the dee, suffice
to keep the crupper in place.
The back-band A, to carry the traces, is the next part of the harness
to be made. It must measure about 4 ft. 4 in. from tip to tip,
including the terminal chains or the eye, to which the traces are
hooked. If pipe, the leather must be made 6 ft. 4 in. by 5 in. Mark
a cross-line 1 ft. from each extremity, and another 6 in. from each
line, so that there will be 3 ft. 4 in. between the two middle marks.
A piece of lining is required for the part between the two lines at
each end; this should be of the same width as the back-band and 1 ft.
3 in. long. Shave thin both tips of the lining and also the ends of
the turn-in of the back-band; crease, black, and rub the back-band,
the crease being made from the extreme lines right along. Prick the
piece from the outer cross-line at each end as far as the double will
run, making five rows with two on each side; then put the lining
under the space between the two lines so that it is 6 in. over one
and 3 in. over the other.
A narrow piece, shaved at the inner edge and about 6 in. long, is now
placed on both ends at each side of the 6-in. space to strengthen
the eye. Stitch the four rows in the 6-in. space, between the two
lines, with three-cord thread, eight per inch; turn the edges of this
part and black and rub them. Now turn down the ends, bringing the
cross-lines dividing the eye exactly opposite each other; flatten
the eye so as to bring the parts with the lines close together, and
tack it in this position. Take two 1-in. dees and place a piece of
leather inside them, on the flat side, for about half their width.
Put both on each side of the back-band, one in each end between the
double close to the eye and low enough to stitch through the piece of
leather inside, when stitching the outer row.
[Illustration:
Fig. 103. Fig. 104.
Figs. 103 and 104.—Hip-strap Chains.]
The dees must be tacked down as well as the double; fasten it right
along both sides. The four rows at both ends and sides are stitched
to the top of the double from the cross rows. If desired, a fancy
wave or pattern can be made instead of the two inner lines of
stitching. Then stitch or spot with lace across the back-band along
the cross-lines near the eye; open out the last by placing a thick
piece of wood, etc., inside.
Two straps must be cut 10 in. by ¾ in., a buckle and loop being
adjusted to one end, and four or five punch holes made at the other
for the dee fixed at the side of the back-band to pass through a
link in the trace, and thus secure the back-band.
Some harness-makers line back-bands from one end to the other and
stitch them; others line the inner part of the eye with sole leather,
and place a safe under the eye. This safe is about 1 in. wider at the
bottom, and narrows down to the same width as the back-band at the
top; the lower corners are rounded, and then it is stitched in from
the eye upwards.
For the belly-band D, a pair of 3-in. chains is required, and the
leather must be cut 3 ft. 4 in. by 3 in. Turn in 4 in. at the ends,
and shave, edge, black, and crease them; then put the leather into
the openings in the chains, stitch four rows along the double part,
and spot or stitch across near the chain.
The set of shaft and chain gear, as described in Chapters V. to
VIII., is now complete. The chains are attached to the shaft harness
or jambles to pull from the shaft, while the leader harness has only
a hook for hitching the chain traces.
CHAPTER IX.
PLOUGH HARNESS.
In plough gears the ordinary bridle and collar are employed. The
back-band is made in various ways. The method with hooks is taken
first. The eye of the hook (Fig. 105, p. 109) is 4 in. wide. Cut the
leather 3 ft. 9 in. long and 4 in. wide; turn down 3 in. at each
end, and beat the bend slightly with the hammer to keep it down, and
crease it with the screw-race, making two rows on each side; mark the
centre from each end, and draw a line straight across at this point,
then two lines each 5 in. from the centre, so that the distance
between them will be 10 in.
Cut two pieces of leather 10½ in. long and ¾ in. wide; dye and crease
one side of each piece, having previously cut a small piece out of
each corner of the side being worked. A line must then be drawn with
the compasses along the centre of this narrow piece. Make a mark
across the centre, and place it underneath the back-band, centre to
centre, as far as the line just drawn; tack it down for stitching,
and place the other piece in the same manner on the other side, so
that the pieces may be a little over both lower lines at each end.
This piece is called the facing; the place on the back-band where the
pieces are to be stitched is pricked out before tacking them down.
The work of stitching is now commenced, care being taken to keep the
line close to the edge of the back-band; make the thread of three or
four cords of coarse hemp.
Having a 1½-in. tinned dee at hand, cut a piece of leather 1½ in.
by 4 in.; shave and point both ends, then crease, black, and prick
them like the side, with eight or ten marks per inch. Place the dee
in the centre of this piece, and lay it flat on the back-band in
the centre, measured from both sides, or from the top line to either
of the lines below, and then stitch, having tacked it down. When
ploughing is being done, the rein is run through this dee, and there
must be one dee on each back-band on the opposite side when the
horses work in pairs, but for a single horse there is one on each
side of the same back-band.
The next part to be made is the panel, used for preventing soreness
of the back of the animal when ploughing, brought about by the
constant pressure in one place. Take a piece of linen, or basil
leather, 14 in. by 7 in., and lay the back-band on it centre to
centre, and evenly over both sides; make the spot stitch thus // //
// across the back-band, and through the linen along the middle line.
Then the partition between the two sides will show the object of
these facings, which make the pad slightly wider than the back-band,
and so ease the horse’s back.
Having stitched across the centre, turn in the lining all round
about ½ in.; if, however, the material employed is basil, no turning
is required. Make a pleat at each corner of the end of the facing,
making both exactly the same length; put another pleat opposite the
first, so that the width may be the same as that of the back-band and
facing combined.
If the panel is basil, the corner is cut off to obtain the true
length, and then stitched together where the cut was made instead
of making a pleat. Now begin to stitch all round, commencing about
1½ in. from the centre on one side so as to have an opening for
stuffing. Work round along the cross lines at the bottom until within
1½ in. of the centre of the other side in a direct line from the
starting point. Spot-stitching is executed in the usual style.
Stuffing is the next operation, the flock being put through the
opening left on each side of the centre line. Lay the back-band flat
on the bench and stuff each side rather tightly by the aid of the
stuffing-stick; the leather side of the back-band is underneath,
whilst the openings are near the edge of the bench. Smooth well
towards the sides, and flatten with a mallet, and continue the
stitching along the opening to the starting-point; this completes the
top.
The hooks must now be put in, an operation which is performed as
follows: Cut two saving pieces from a thick, firm face of hide;
good, close-grained stuff is wasted on such work as this, the best
material, as a rule, being that from the face of a gear hide. Cut the
pieces 7 in. long, and if the back-band is to be 4 in. wide, make the
pieces 5 in wide. Cut one end slanting to 4 in., of the same width as
the back-band, and shave it. Round off the corners of the other end,
leaving it the full width; black and crease the edges.
[Illustration: Fig. 105.—Plough Back-band Hook.]
Put the hooks in their places and the saving pieces under them about
1½ in. lower down than the extremity of the hook; tack them down
exactly in the centre. Having marked and pricked the back-band with
four rows running from the hook upwards to the end of the saving
pieces, stitch with a four-cord thread, nine or ten stitches per
inch, and then stitch a line across close to the hook to bind all
together. Now the back-band is in working order.
The plough back-band, with chains instead of hooks, is made in
exactly the same manner, but when there is only one chain and a bar
across in the bend to hold it, a hole must be cut in the centre of
the bend for the passage of the chain. For two chains and a bar
make two holes; the saving pieces can be made a little narrower
with chains, and the body of the back-band need not be so long in
proportion to the length of the chains. As a guide in determining
the length of the body, whatever may be the length of the chains or
hooks, it should be remembered that the length of the back-band over
all must be about 4 ft. 4 in.
Couplings are also a necessary part of plough gear. In some
localities only cross-straps are employed from mouth to mouth when
ploughing in pairs. Cut the strap 1 in. wide and 28 in. to 30 in.
long, turn it in about 1 in. at each end, and make a hole for the
buckle, and shave the points. Take two billets of the same width, 1
ft. long, and trim them to a point at one end, shaving the other;
then edge back, and crease them; place the buckle in, and then the
thin end, 2 in. down at the back of the buckle. Put a loop between
the chape by the buckle and stitch one billet and buckle at each end;
punch two holes in each billet.
Sometimes two coupling straps are employed for a pair: the straps
cross each other from the hames of each horse to the mouth of the
other. They are made to the first style, but longer, being 38 in. in
length, each with 12-in. billets; in some cases they are made a foot
longer than this, the coupling being cut into two, one end 15 in.
long with a buckle and loop, and the other made to buckle on, with
numerous holes for adjusting the length. This is a very convenient
method, for when a young horse is coupled with an old one, the
coupling must be shortened on the side of the former animal to keep
it back until it has learned the ordinary working pace.
CHAPTER X.
BITS, SPURS, STIRRUPS, AND HARNESS FURNITURE.
Bits, their patterns and materials, will now be considered. Bits are
made in polished iron, tinned iron, in steel of various qualities,
and in nickel. Nickel is as expensive as good steel, but does not
tarnish so soon, and when worn still continues to take a good polish.
[Illustration:
Fig. 106. Fig. 107.
Figs. 106 and 107.—Pelham Bits.]
Some of the more expensive kinds of bits have ornamented and
silver-plated cheeks; this is especially the case with carriage,
military, and riding bits.
[Illustration:
Fig. 108. Fig. 109. Fig. 110.
Fig. 108.—Pelham Bit. Fig. 109.—Hackney Bit. Fig. 110.—Bridoon.]
Riding bits are snaffles for a single head bridle and rein, hence
their name snaffle bridles. Pelham bits (Figs. 106 to 108) are used
for single head bridle and double rein, this bridle being known as
the Pelham. The Hackney bit (Fig. 109) has a bridoon (Fig. 110),
that is, the bit has only a mouthpiece and a ring at each end with a
jointed bar. This bit is used for the Weymouth bridle, which has a
double head and a double rein. Curbs are used with the two bits last
mentioned.
[Illustration:
Fig. 111. Fig. 112.
Figs. 111 and 112.—Ladies’ Horse Bits.]
[Illustration: Fig. 113.
Fig. 113.—Pelham Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth.]
[Illustration: Fig. 114.
Fig. 114.—Hackney Bit with Indiarubber Mouth.]
Bits for horses to be ridden by ladies are shown by Figs. 111 and
112. They are on the same principle as those previously mentioned,
but are lighter and more fanciful, many of them being ornamented
about the cheeks. The Pelham snaffle (Fig. 113) and the Hackney bit
(Fig. 114), with indiarubber mouths, can be had for tender-mouthed
horses, and double or twisted or smooth-mouthed bits can be had for
vicious or quiet horses as required.
[Illustration: Fig. 115.
Fig. 115.—Gig Snaffle.]
[Illustration: Fig. 116.
Fig. 116.—Wilson Snaffle.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 117. Fig. 118. Fig. 119.
Fig. 117.—Liverpool Bit. Fig. 118.—Globe Cheek Curb Bit. Fig.
119.—One-horn Bridoon Bit.]
[Illustration: Fig. 120.—One-horned Bridoon with Indiarubber Mouth.]
[Illustration: Fig. 121.—Gig Curb Bit.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 122. Fig. 123.
Fig. 124. Fig. 125.
Fig. 122.—Buxton Bit. Fig. 123.—Swivelled Bridoon Bit. Figs. 124 and
125.—Breaking Bits.]
Driving bits are commonly gig snaffles (Fig. 115); Wilson snaffles
(Fig. 116) have rings at each end and two loose rings on the
mouthpiece, one of which is buckled to the bridle cheek; the outer
ring on each side is for the driving rein, but sometimes the rein
billet is put through both rings at the same time. Wilson snaffles
can be obtained bar jointed, twisted, or smooth-mouth. The Liverpool
bit (Fig. 117) has a curb cheek, and a straight or solid bar mouth
with the mouth bar loose on the cheek. The Globe cheek curb bit (Fig.
118) has a ring at the bottom of the cheek to which the mouthpiece is
attached instead of being loose as in the Liverpool bit. A “one-horn
bridoon” (Fig. 119), with one ring at each side and either a solid or
a jointed mouth, sometimes has a leather or indiarubber mouth (see
Fig. 120).
[Illustration: Fig. 126.—Breaking Bit.]
[Illustration: Fig. 127.—Snaffle with Indiarubber Mouth.]
Gig curb bits (Fig. 121) have the billet of the bridle fastened to
the top of the cheek, with cheeks on the lower side to which the
reins are fastened.
[Illustration:
Fig. 128. Fig. 129.
Figs. 128 and 129.—Exercising Bits.]
[Illustration: Fig. 130.—Show or Stallion Bit.]
The carriage bit most in use is the Buxton bit (Fig. 122), which has
a bend in the cheek below the mouthpiece, and a bar across at the
bottom from one side of the cheek to the other, the solid mouthpiece
having a port in the centre; this is a smart and very powerful curb
bit, but it is being superseded by the Liverpool bit. A swivelled
bridoon (Fig. 123), as sometimes used with the ordinary driving
bit, has the bearing rein running from the hames down through the
swivel and up to a strap stitched between the two slit straps of the
head-strap. Breaking bits (Figs. 124 to 126) are special kinds of
patent bits. Fig. 127 is an indiarubber mouth snaffle; Figs. 128 and
129 are exercising bits; Fig. 130 is a show or stallion bit; and Fig.
131 is a double-mouthed snaffle.
[Illustration: Fig. 131.—Double-mouthed Snaffle.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 132. Fig. 133. Fig. 134.
Fig. 132.—Ordinary Spur. Fig. 133.—Officer’s Regulation Spur. Fig.
134.—Dress Spur.]
On the subject of spurs, very little need be said. Besides ordinary
pattern spurs (Fig. 132), there are officers’ regulation spurs (Fig.
133), dress spurs (Fig. 134), ladies’ spurs (Fig. 135), trousers
spurs (Fig. 136), and box spurs. The last-named are fastened to the
heel of the boot by a spring inserted in a steel box inside the heel.
Like screw spurs, which screw into a hole in the heel, they may be
taken off at will. Spurs are made in polished steel and brass, some
being silver-plated. The saddler must have a supply of spur rowels
for repairing spurs.
[Illustration:
Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137.
Fig. 135.—Lady’s Spur. Fig. 136.—Trousers Spur. Fig. 137.—Solid
Stirrup.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 138. Fig. 139. Fig. 140.
Fig. 138.—Open Bottom Stirrup. Fig. 139.—Waving Bar Stirrup. Fig.
140.—Lady’s Stirrup.]
Stirrups may be solid (Fig. 137), three bar or open bottom (Fig.
138), or they may be of the waving bar pattern (Fig. 139). They
vary greatly in weight according to the purpose for which they are
required, and are made of polished steel and of plated brass or
silver. Ladies’ stirrups (Fig. 140) are of various patterns, some
having pads to protect the foot, others having foot plates of the
same shape as the foot; others, again, have slippers (Fig. 141).
Safety stirrups (Fig. 142) both for ladies and gentlemen are made
so that if the rider falls or is thrown off the horse the stirrups
spring open and release the rider’s feet. Thus the danger of being
dragged along the ground by the horse is obviated.
[Illustration: Fig. 141.—Stirrup Slipper.]
[Illustration: Fig. 142.—Safety Stirrup.]
Some particulars will now be given of harness furniture. First the
material will be touched upon.
Japanned iron furniture is strong and durable, and has a fairly good
appearance when new, but the japan soon wears off and allows the iron
to get rusty. Common iron buckles, covered with leather, are also
used, but not so extensively as they were formerly. The iron soon
rusts, and the rust affects the leather and causes it to crumble off,
giving a very shabby appearance to the rest of the set of harness.
[Illustration:
Fig. 143. Fig. 144. Fig. 145. Fig. 146.
Fig. 143.—Flat Side Wire Front Buckle. Fig. 144.—Wire Front
Bevelled Buckle. Fig. 145.—Bevelled Flat Top Buckle. Fig. 146.—West
End Bevelled Flat Top Buckle.
]
Brass furniture is largely used, and it is got up in many qualities
and styles of finish. The best brass does not tarnish nearly so
soon as common brass, and, of course, has a good appearance when
clean. Partly covered brass or plated furniture is also sometimes
used, the buckles being covered with leather about half-way up the
sides, leaving the top and a little of the side bare. This looks very
well, and is more durable than iron-covered buckles, as the brass-
or silver-plate does not destroy the leather so soon as iron; partly
covered furniture is, however, very awkward to clean.
[Illustration:
Fig. 147. Fig. 148. Fig. 149. Fig. 150.
Fig. 147.—Spade Buckle. Fig. 148.—Square Wire Buckle. Fig.
149.—Chatham Buckle. Fig. 150.—Flat Top Turned-up Buckle.
]
[Illustration:
Fig. 151. Fig. 152. Fig. 153. Fig. 154.
Fig. 151.—Fluted Buckle. Fig. 152.—Swelled Front Bent-leg Buckle.
Fig. 153.—Flat Top Cab Buckle. Fig. 154.—West End Whole Buckle.
]
Buckles are occasionally covered with celluloid; sometimes this
only partly covers the brass, aluminium, or gold-plated buckle, and
it then looks very rich. The celluloid-covered article is made in
imitation of the leather-covered buckle; it is durable, and does not
require much cleaning, the occasional application of a wet sponge
being sufficient. Celluloid is more commonly used in America than in
this country. It is a very inflammable material, and will break if
given a hard knock or if allowed to fall.
[Illustration:
Fig. 155. Fig. 156. Fig. 157.
Fig. 155.—Chased Buckle. Fig. 156.—Melbourne Buckle. Fig. 157.—West
End Square Buckle.]
Nickel furniture looks well, but costs a little more than brass.
Nickoline, white metal, or Victoria metal furniture costs about the
same as brass; all three look well when cleaned, but quickly tarnish.
Plated furniture is used on superior harness; it can be bought in
different qualities, being plated with silver, white metal, German
silver, or nickel.
[Illustration:
Fig. 158. Fig. 159. Fig. 160. Fig. 161.
Figs. 158 and 159.—Covered Buckles. Figs. 160 and 161.—Part-covered
Buckles.]
Of course, the hames and the buckle tongues are of iron, plated in
whatever metal the rest of the furniture is made; they have to be
of iron to withstand the strain to which they are subjected. In
ordering, it is necessary to state whether plated hames are required
of the same material as the furniture, and whether the latter is
brass, silver-plated, etc. The pattern of buckle required will make
a little difference in the price; the wire-shaped pattern is the one
mostly used.
[Illustration:
Fig. 162. Fig. 163.
Fig. 164. Fig. 165.
Fig. 162.—Shaft Tug Buckle. Fig. 163.—Burgess’s Buckle. Fig.
164.—Ball Terret. Fig. 165.—Plain Terret.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 166. Fig. 167.
Figs. 166 and 167.—Ball Terrets.]
[Illustration: Fig. 168.—Ball Terret.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 169. Fig. 170. Fig. 171. Fig. 172.
Figs. 169 to 172.—Hames.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 173. Fig. 174.
Figs. 173 and 174.—Bearing-rein Swivels.]
There are so many patterns in gig and carriage furniture that it is
impossible to mention them all. Attention will be directed, however,
to some of the most useful patterns of buckles. The flat side wire
front (Fig. 143, p. 118), the wire front bevelled (Fig. 144), the
bevelled flat top (Fig. 145), the West End flat top wire (Fig. 146),
and the spade pattern (Fig. 147, p. 119) are all very neat buckles.
Square wire buckles (Fig. 148) on light gig harness look very well.
The Chatham (Fig. 149), flat top turned up (Fig. 150), and fluted
(Fig. 151), are very strong buckles for cab harness, as are also the
swelled front bent leg (Fig. 152), and side and flat top cab (Fig.
153) buckles. The West End whole buckle is shown by Fig. 154; it
looks very neat for any fancy harness. “Chased” (Fig. 155, p. 120),
“Melbourne” (Fig. 156), or “West End square,” or “square wire”
(Fig. 157) whole buckles, are all very showy and smart when worked
up. Figs. 158 and 159 are covered buckles, and Figs. 160 and 161
part-covered buckles.
There are many different kinds of shaft tug buckles; that shown by
Fig. 162 (p. 121) is a good pattern, as is also Burgess’s patent
buckle (Fig. 163).
The terrets (Figs. 164 to 168) for the reins to run through on the
saddle and hames (Figs. 169 to 172), as well as the bearing-rein
swivels (Figs. 173 and 174) and all parts of the set of furniture,
are of a pattern conforming with that of the buckles.
[Illustration: Fig. 175.]
[Illustration: Fig. 176.
Figs. 175 and 176.—Roller Buckles.]
Cart-harness furniture may be of galvanised or japanned iron, with
buckles of brass or white metal. All the brass patterns illustrated
are known as Scotch gear buckles. Cart fancy-brass breeching loops
may be used instead of leather ones for bridgeband carriers and
bridle cheeks.
Fly-terrets are much used as ornaments on the top of the bridle
between the ears of the horse, being either screwed down into a
socket or riveted in place. Brass face-pieces for the front of the
bridles on the forehead can be obtained in numerous patterns.
Hame plates, to be put between the two points of the hames or jambles
above the collar, look very well with a strap across from side to
side as a fastening.
Cart hames are either wholly or partly covered with iron, and
generally take their names from the district in which the particular
pattern is mostly used. Thus there are the Manchester, Lancashire,
Irish, and Yorkshire hames. Cart bits, together with their fittings,
are always firmly attached to the bridle, and are made either of
tinned or japanned iron. They may be straight and jointed, or twisted.
[Illustration: Fig. 177.]
[Illustration: Fig. 178.]
[Illustration: Fig. 179.
Fig. 177.—Hame Clip. Figs. 178 and 179.—Breeching Dees.]
Chains, such as backband, crupper, or hip strap chains, and watering
chains for bridle reins, and plough backband hooks or chains, are
all wanted in making up a set. Others necessary are:—Leader backband
chains, cheek chains for the end of leading rein, bridgeband chains,
and chains for the bellyband, instead of billets, to go round the
shafts.
Riding bridle buckles range in width from ⅜ in. to 1 in. Stirrup
leather buckles are also a special line, being from 1¼ in. to 1½ in.
in width. Saddle girth buckles are 1 in. wide. Roller buckles (Figs.
175 and 176, p. 124) vary in size from ⅝ in. to 1¾ in., and are
largely used on all kinds of leather work. Head-stall or head-collar
buckles range in size from 1¼ in. to 1½ in.; some have the collar
attached, to which is fastened the throat lash.
The following buckles must also be kept ready to hand:—D-buckles
for use on small straps; and japanned legging buckles, in sizes
ranging from ½ in. to ¾ in. Head-collar stop squares, for making
and repairing head-collars, must also be stocked, as well as tinned
and brass rings of different sizes, for making head-collars and for
miscellaneous repairs. Brass, tin, and plated dees will be necessary
for making and repairing dog collars, and for holding coat straps on
riding saddles, etc. They range in size from ⅝ in. to 1½ in.
Belt, brace, and garter buckles may often be wanted, and 2 lb. or
3 lb. of buckle tongues for repairing old buckles should also be
obtained in all sizes and strengths. Strong double-pronged buckles
may be wanted from 1½ in. to 2 in. There may also be occasion to
use harness buckles of all sizes, patterns, and material, saddle
terrets, hame clips (Fig. 177), various kinds of nails, breeching and
bearing-rein rings, breeching dees (Figs. 178 and 179), and rivets
for clips, etc.
CHAPTER XI.
VAN AND CAB HARNESS.
The making of a set of gig harness is described in the companion
volume “Saddlery.” Van harness for heavy work requires a set
of furniture, including buckles, hames, and chains, and a van
saddle-tree. The furniture should be of brass, nickel, or silver.
Burgess’s patent tug buckles (Fig. 163, p. 121) can be recommended
for shaft tugs.
A pair of winker plates of any pattern (see Figs. 180 and 181) are
necessary to make the winkers. Beginning with the winkers, cut the
leather about ¼ in. wider than the plate all round, except at the
back, where it must be ⅞ in. wider. If patent leather is used, make
a line all round the edge, and another about ½ in. from it, and race
a line across, 1½ in. from the back part, from one end of the inner
line to the end of the other; of course, the other lines must not be
brought nearer than this to the back. Prick along the lines, about
eleven per inch, and single stitch the inner line all round the four
sides, through the leather, employing black linen thread double, with
two needles.
Cut the lining to the same size as the top, but lightly stuffed and
with little oil in; put the top on it and stitch all round three
sides, leaving the back open. Put the leather in water and wet it
thoroughly, and then, having opened out the two leathers with the
hand, put a good coat of paste on both of the inner sides by the aid
of a spoon or other convenient implement.
Push in the winker plate front to front; but if the front is round
cornered, it must, of course, be put in first. Push in the pieces
until they lie square in the leather and close to the front stitches;
then rub the top and the lining down to the sheet iron, being careful
to make the lining stick well to the sheet.
Place the winker on a board, lining underneath, and tack down each of
the hind corners, and if necessary, the middle; then put some paper
or rags between the winker and the board so as to keep the lining up
to the sheet. When quite dry and perfectly adhering, remove them from
the board, trim the edges, finish and polish well.
The collar is made practically in the same way as a cart collar. The
forewale must be turned down 2 in., that is 4 in. altogether, and
instead of whipping the basil lining in as previously described,
cut it a little smaller, and stitch it in at the same time as the
forewale; tack it down in such a manner that when the lining is
turned over to stuff the body, the stitches will not be visible. Take
a pattern (see Fig. 96, p. 79) and let the lining overlap in the
centre of the forewale for quite 2 in. Stitching is done as for a
cart collar, both for the forewale and the drawing in the body, but
the last must not be so big and clumsy.
In making and setting the top piece, no stitches should appear in
front other than the cross row; the top piece must not be joined
downwards as in the other. Turn in the bottom of the top piece for ½
in. across, and stitch a line with black linen thread ¼ in. from the
edge to keep the turn in its place. Damp the top piece, put it across
the front, and draw it tight, putting a tack in both sides; then make
it overlap at the top centre of the back so as to obtain a good point
to hold the hame strap in place; then stitch all round the hollow.
Cut the side piece close along the sides of the body to fit tight by
the forewale. Then take a piece of soft thin leather binding 1¼ in.
wide, damp it, and place it edge to edge with the outside of the
side piece, tacking it down. Having stitched the side piece, putting
a small welt at the joint at the bottom, and shaving a little round
the edges, stitch the binding and side piece together around the edge
with black linen thread, about seven stitches per inch. Run a piece
of twine along the stitches round the rim, and turn down the binding
over the twine towards the inside, being careful to keep the twine in
place. Mark a line and prick it, about eight per inch, and ⅜ in. from
the edge; then stitch the binding down below the twine. The last must
be in one piece with 4 in. or 5 in. to spare at each end.
[Illustration: Fig. 180.]
[Illustration: Fig. 181.]
Figs. 180 and 181.—Winkers.
Damp the side piece and adjust it; tack it with an awl at the bottom
and draw it tight at the top. Now wax a piece of collar twine, about
18 in. longer than is necessary to pass round the collar, and begin
to stitch the side piece in at the top on the off side, running the
stitches through the binding close to the stitching and through the
lining at every other stitch. The stitches may be about 2 in. long;
draw them tight while working, and be careful that the side piece
is in its proper position, with both sides equally level. Fasten
the thread after stitching the side piece all round. Take hold of
the hanging ends of the twine which has been run along the binding
inside, and pull them well to draw down the edges of the side-piece
along the side of the body; then knot and fasten them together. Draw
in the side piece at the forewale as with the cart collar, using only
thread or very fine white lace.
A layer of old carpet may be placed on the stitches next to the body
under the side piece to give the sides smoothness and roundness.
Fasten the two side pieces together at the top by stitching over from
one to the other with the collar needle.
A small housing to cover the top of the collar must be cut, almost
half-round in shape, but with slightly widening points and a V-shaped
notch on the side next the collar for the points to pass, one on each
side of the top piece; bring it down close to the forewale. It may be
bound in the same style as the side piece, stitched fast edge to edge
with the binding, the latter being then turned and a line stitched
round a short distance from the edges; about ¾ in. below that another
row of stitches is made all round. The point on the outside of the
body must not project more than about ¼ in.
Plain or patent leather can be employed to make the collar and
winkers; patent leather must always be marked for stitching with the
race compass, and a groove cut so that the patent will be raced off
and the line quite visible. This kind of leather, when used to make
the collar forewale, must be lined with calico to prevent it cracking.
The van saddle (Fig. 182) is the next part to be made. The tree is
a miniature cart-saddle tree, with similar boards and groove. The
plates to be put in the point of the groove where the backband runs
through may be nickel or brass to match the furniture. Begin work by
fixing the terrets and bearing-rein stand hook on the tree. Take off
the sockets which are attached to the screws, and see that they are
of the proper length to reach over the groove of the tree from side
to side; file them down to the width of the tree if they are too
long. Place the stand-hook socket exactly in the centre at the top,
and mark its position on each side and end.
Cut out a hollow at the mark deep enough for the socket to enter
and lie flush with the surface, and drive a small screw through
each socket into the tree. The terret sockets are fixed in the same
manner, being sunk level and screwed down, about 3½ in. lower than
the stand hook on each side.
[Illustration: Fig. 182.]
[Illustration: Fig. 183.]
[Illustration: Fig. 184.
Fig. 182.—Van Saddle. Fig. 183.—Van Saddle Flap. Fig. 184.—Van Saddle
Panel.]
Cut two pieces of thin leather, either plain or patent, to the same
shape as each side of the tree and about 1 in. larger each way. Damp
them and make a nick at the top of the boards in the leather so that
the centre of the piece will turn down underneath. Tack each end of
the leather to the board close to the tree, then pull it tightly
along the entire surface of the side over the top, nailing it here
and there. Level it down on the surface of the tree, and tack the
centre part between the boards underneath the tree, pulling it tight
and flat over all parts.
To make the flaps, cut out a paper pattern as a guide (see Fig. 183),
making it wider at the top than at the other parts and slightly
raised in front. The flaps must reach down from the lower part of the
groove in the centre for about 15 in., swelling slightly at the sides
and gradually narrowing to about 2 in. at the bottom. The patterns
may also be cut straight without the swelling sides, but in both
styles they must rise in front more than at the back; as they are cut
in two pieces, one for each side, this can easily be managed, because
when they are joined at the top this part will stand out prominently
in front.
Some flaps are made with stout firm leather, others are lined. In the
first case, make two rows along the sides with the race compass and
bevel deep with a hot bevel; but patent leather, instead of needing
the race compass, has tallow rubbed along the part to be creased and
the lines are marked with the compass; then run a warm beveller deep
along the marks, being careful that it does not cut the leather.
When patent or plain leather is lined, use the race compass and prick
the grooves for stitching. When stitched (or made without lining),
cut and polish the edges well and join them with a stitch at the
top; place a piece of leather over the joint at the front about 1¼
in. wide, and stitch it on both sides of the joint and across the
front; then shave it thin at the side next the tree. A dee, of brass
or other metal, is placed on the outside for fastening the crupper.
Cover the joint at the back with another piece of leather, turning
it down on the outside and shaving the other end thin. These pieces
should be long enough on both sides to pass under the tree when the
flaps are nailed. On these the tree is placed centre to centre and
front to front, and a line is marked along the sides of the tree from
board to board on the leather.
Make a mark at the lower side of the board to indicate the width
of the tree there, and the width of the wood on both sides of the
groove. Note that this must be marked at the bottom side of the
boards, four marks being made at each end of the tree, outside and
inside the wood on each side of the groove.
At this point take away the tree, and cut a slit from the outer
lower mark to the point of the one running along the side of the
tree; there will then be two slits of the width of the board, one on
each side of the tree. Now cut upwards from each of the two inner
marks at the bottom, for the length of the other cuts and equal in
width to the wood, on both sides of the groove. Then cut across the
top of each incision from side to side; there will now be one cross
cut and four cuts upward, and a portion along the centre. Cut the
middle piece between the four slits at each end about 1½ in. from the
bottom, and shave the points; now cut the two narrow strips at each
end to the same length.
The middle piece, unless there are plates, is nailed along the groove
with the narrow cuts underneath. Place flaps over the top and make
the edges of the centre slit meet at the centre of the tree below.
Nail the flaps down along the edge of the tree, putting four or five
extra nails opposite the crupper loop in its chape. When there is no
plate, nail the centre piece in the bottom along the groove; put the
narrow pieces down and nail them with the brass beading, making sure
that the part of the flaps over the boards runs close to the tree;
fasten it to the boards with four or five tacks. Turn the centre
piece down like the narrow ones, and nail it to the board at each end.
Cut a top cover of strong leather of the same width as the tree and
to reach to within 2½ in. from the bottom, so that there will be an
opening for the backband; crease it across both ends and bevel the
creases with a hot iron, or line both ends for about 2 in. and shave
the inner side; then make two rows of stitching across the points.
Place it on the tree in its proper position, and give two or three
light taps with a hammer opposite the three openings for the terrets
and stand hooks in the sockets; thus the size and position of the
holes is marked on the cover.
Holes, of the same dimensions as the socket holes, must now be cut in
the cover, and this nailed down on both sides of the tree, keeping
the holes in the leather exactly opposite those for the sockets. A
strong nail must be driven into each corner so that it will not be
prized up by the backband. Take a piece of beading long enough to run
along the top on each side and go down underneath through the opening
opposite the narrow cuts in the bottom; nail the beading on the side
of the boards or under them, securing in the same way the narrow
turned-down strip. The beading should lie close to the leather along
the top of the tree; drive the nails for the beading with a wooden
mallet.
The saddle is now ready for the panel (Fig. 184, p. 131), the back of
which must be cut to the same size as the flaps; it must not reach
quite to the bottom; let it end, say, 2 in. from it. Basil can be
employed as material, and if this is light, a piece of linen can be
pasted inside, or a narrow slip may be pasted along the edges. When
dry, see again that it is of the same size and shape. The facing must
be cut about 1⅛ in. wide, and of the same length as the sides of the
panel; it may be in patent or plain leather to match the flaps.
When the material is not long enough it may be cut into two parts and
joined at the centre; it is then tacked along the edges and stitched
for about six inches. Rub the joint down as flat as possible. Take
some blue serge lining or collar lining and lay it out smooth on the
bench, and place the panel back on it inside out; with hemp, tack
it along the sides to the lining, cutting the latter to the same
shape as the back, but wider by 1¾ in. or more on both sides at the
top. The lining then tapers to exactly the same width as the base at
the extreme point. Narrow the lining at the gullet and, just at the
back in the centre opposite the opening to be left, turn it in about
¼ in.; run a stitch to keep it down, and then whip it in with the
facing from end to end and across the bottom, employing black linen
thread and a pointed needle and thimble. No facing is placed across
the bottom.
Now turn the panel inside out through the opening at the top; the
joint is not stitched right across, only two or three stitches being
used at each end. Some piping is now needed to run round the facing
to make both sides of the panel front stand out round and straight.
Sometimes the facing is made of straw whipped round with hemp until
it is hard and round; sometimes with damp brown paper rolled with
both hands on the bench; or a simple cord of light twist may be
employed, and, in America, cane. In harness of this description,
cord will suffice; it may be covered with brown paper to about ⅝ in.
in diameter. Place it in the facing through the opening at the top,
making it reach to the bottom at each side but not across. Turn the
facing tightly over it and begin to spot from the back, the stitches
being small and even on the lined side.
While working, the panel should be kept flat on the bench, the
lining being uppermost and being stitched close to the facing with a
quilting needle and thimble. Then place the lining flat and even at
the top, parting it alike on both sides and running a line of cross
stitches from side to side on both sides of the joining at the back,
to about 1½ in. apart at the back and about 4 in. in the front.
The panel is now in two compartments. Cut two openings across it, one
on each side, below the line of stitches just made, and one to cross
them; then stuff the panel with carded flock through these openings,
the stuffing-stick being employed for the purpose. Fill it level from
top to bottom, but not too full.
Next mark, say, six cross lines, about 1½ in. apart, from the bottom
of the panel towards the top, a rule being used as a guide. Take a
long three-cord black hemp thread made with beeswax and quilt it,
making four stitches or so in each line; use a thimble and quilting
needle. Keep the stitches in a straight line both downwards and
crosswise, and when the last line is reached, make two stitches from
back to front, thus leaving the last line half finished. Now flatten
it over the stitches and stuff the top to the requisite thickness,
taking care to make it firm, though not hard, otherwise it will
become very thin when pressure bears on it. Place the panel to the
centre of the tree and flaps, and put a tack on each side at the top
to retain it in this position. Some harness makers run five or six
stitches through the flap and panel here and there, others spot them
all the way along; but the best method is to put the panel in with
copper wire.
Stitching or spotting might do for common work, small stitches being
put in spotting on the flap side and about 1¼ in. apart below. The
stitches, whether spotting or stitching double-handed, should run
out in the hollow between the facing and stuffing below. Keep the
facing even along the edge of the flap a little outside rather than
underneath.
To fasten a panel, cut the wire into pieces about 5 in. long, and
with a bent awl cut holes underneath the flaps close by the outer row
of stitches, all at the same distance from the outside. Then place
a piece of wire in each, and, if for a gig or cab saddle, nail the
panel in the centre on both sides; but in the case of a van saddle,
nails need not be employed; simply wire it all round. Keep the panel
right in the centre and fasten a wire in the top, on each side, by
cutting a hole with the bent awl for each point of the wire just
below the facing. Put one wire in each hole and push the panel close
to the flap; then twist the wire on the panel side with a pair of
pincers till the panel is pulled tight to the flap. Give the wire a
sharp twist with its points together, and cut them within ¼ in. of
the panel; turn down the points and press them out of sight into the
hollow between the panel and the facing, repeating the process along
both sides with the wire about 2½ in. apart.
A strap and a girth are needed to fasten to the bottom of the flaps.
Cut the girth 2 ft. long and 2 in. wide, and have a lay to put on
about 9 in. by 1¼ in. Make a buckle hole in the lay so that the edge
of the buckle will be level with the end of the girth, as the chape
is not to be turned down, but is stitched on the flat.
A strong strap must now be cut 18 in. by 1¼ in., rounded at one end
and shaved at the other, and another piece of leather 2 in. by 4½
in., with one end shaved and the other narrowed to 1¼ in.; edge,
black, and crease both. Tack the lay on the girth with the buckle
level to the end, and narrow the girth to the width of the lay at the
point; then place two loops beyond the buckle and stitch the lay. In
the next place, the shaved end of the strap must be stitched to the
4½ in. piece, the strap being placed within 1 in. of the broad end.
Finish the loops, punch the straps, and stitch them, the strap on the
near side and the girth on the off side at the base of the flaps, the
stitches running across and in a half circle from corner to corner.
The winkers by this time will be dry and fit to work as part of the
bridle. Straighten the outside—that is, the part to be stitched—if it
has got a little out of shape in wetting and nailing. Rub the other
edges with sandpaper and give them a fine polish; then shave the side
for the cheek.
Having got four ¾-in. buckles ready for the cheeks, cut the latter 2
ft. 9 in. by ¾ in. and measure 1 ft. from the better end, marking it
across for a billet. Now round its point and measure 8 in. from the
first mark; turn it down there, and again turn it down 8 in. from the
bend. Make a buckle hole in each bend, and edge, black, and crease
along the billet part. Make a groove with a round knife or grooving
tool underneath on the billet side from the cross mark to within ¼
in. of the top bend, the depth of the groove being about half the
thickness of the leather; open it out with the point of a blunt
compass or anything suitable.
The buckles can now be fixed, one in each bend, and the winkers
can also be placed between the cheek up to the buckles at the top
bend and level with the outside. Cut a small nick just opposite the
projection of the buckle tongue so that the winker will ascend on
the top end close to the buckle. See that the point of the turn-down
running from the base bend is cut level with the bottom of the
winker, and run a stitch through both, making the point fit tightly
in the hollow between the lower buckle and the winker.
Place three tacks on the outer side to keep the edges together in
their places. Make one loop for each from medium heavy winker brown
loop leather about 7 in. by 1⅜ in.; damp it well and place it in half
the width of the cheek on the inner side and stitch along the groove.
Adjust the two sides in the same manner, reversing the winker to pair
them.
The loops having been damped before being attached, place a
loop-stick ¾ in. wide in each loop; then knock them square and level
to shape. Black them with soda and dye, dry partially with rag, and
rub and polish well with a bone, making them shine brightly. Now
trim the underside of the cheek, round the square edges, and polish.
Apply a coat of Harris’s harness liquid both to the loops and to the
edges; rub them well with the palm of the hand and then with a little
tallow, after which they must be again rubbed with a rag.
The loops are now ready for creasing and checking, but in the first
place make sure that the loops are in condition; if too dry, they
cannot be creased deeply enough, and if too wet the bevels and marks
cannot be polished. Test with a hot crease and then hold them near
the fire a little while; finally rub with the hand until they are dry
enough. Attention must also be given to the temperature of the tools
when heated in the fire, candle, or gas. Therefore, keep on the bench
a small quantity of water into which to dip the heated tools; if the
beveller or checker hisses in the water it must be kept there until
this ceases.
Now with the screw crease or compass make two or three lines across
each end of the loop, and two rows near each other along the edges
on the face. Trace out the design on the surface between the outer
lines, namely diamonds, single arrow point, or double arrow points,
etc. Having warmed the beveller, mark deeply the cross and outside
lines, polish them, and then mark the outer lines of the design with
the beveller on the surface of the loop.
The space between the outer lines of the design and the straight
lines at the edge and sides must now be marked with the warm checker,
which may be fine or coarse, according to the style of work; the
design also will vary with the fineness or coarseness of the work.
The checking being finished, run the beveller along all the outer
lines in the design and the straight line, to smooth down the checker
marks running to the bevelled lines and to give boldness to the work.
The noseband is made by cutting the leather 2 ft. 8 in. long by 1
in.; it must then be marked 5 in. from the point and again at a
distance of ⅞ in. from this mark; then a third mark is made 13 in.
farther on, and a fourth ⅞ in. from the last mark. Turn down 2 in. of
the end marked last for the buckle; take ⅛ in. from each end and each
side as far as the cross mark nearest the ends. Make a buckle hole
and shave, bend, and round the other end for the point. Cut another
piece for a lining, taking the first as a pattern, and then thin the
edges of both, slanting from the middle of the strap on both sides,
but do not thin the ⅞-in. space in either piece.
[Illustration: Fig. 185.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
The first piece of leather that was cut with a buckle hole can now
be damped; then with a grooving board and hammer handle a groove is
made along the full length, not including the two ⅞-in. spaces. Now
cut a hole in the outer side of each of the cross lines, marking two
spaces, and cut two loops about ⅜ in. by 2 in. Shave the points,
damp, and put one end in each hole over the ⅞-in. space; beat the
points a little to flatten them to the leather, and leave sufficient
space for the billet to pass between the loops and the noseband.
Crease the noseband on both sides from end to end, ⅛ in. from the
edge, and, if required, another line can be made at the same distance
farther in from opening to opening in the centre only. Prick the
lines all along except opposite the openings, fine or coarse,
according to the style of work, and then put the lining underneath
and the buckle in its place. Tack it here and there with fine tacks
and with three-cord fine hemp stitch from end to end, around the
point, and across at the end of the centre loops to fasten the loops
near the openings.
Stitch a second line if needed, and then the buckle chape from
underneath, and put in one or two loops. Trim the edges, sandpaper,
black them, and polish; then place sticks in the loops and finish,
making four holes in the short end.
The next part of the harness to be described is the front or forehead
band. Begin work by cutting it 21 in. by 1 in., bend it down to pass
easily round a 1½ in. strap, and then mark it across the length of
the required opening. See that there are 13 in. between the two cross
marks in the centre and sufficient to stitch down the ends beyond the
openings; shave the points and stitch down the ends from the cross
lines to the points.
[Illustration: Fig. 186.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
It can be covered with fancy coloured or striped cloth or leather and
herring-bone stitched along the centre underneath, making a cross
at each end; or a chain front (Figs. 185 to 187) can be employed.
In the last case a piece of patent leather must be cut of the same
length as the front from one cross line to the other and of the same
width as the forehead band; adjust the chain and stitch along its
centre, taking the thread out at one side of the chain, and running
it through the link and down on the other side close by the chain,
and so on through every link; at each end through the link joint make
a little chape and stitch double through it when the patent leather
is being adjusted to the forehead band.
Now mark a line along the edges of the patent leather outside the
chain and prick it fine, laying on the patent leather from opening to
opening, and stitching double with beeswaxed linen thread and a fine
awl. Stitch the patent leather across also at the ends, catching the
above-mentioned little chapes. Then pare, sandpaper, black, and well
polish the edges.
To make the head-piece, cut the leather 1½ in. wide and 1 ft. 10 in.
long; slit it 6 in. at each end, and edge, black, and rub it well,
and then crease it with a hot creaser close to the edge and at both
sides of the slits. Now cut a ¾-in. chape, long enough to clasp the
buckle and the head-piece and to reach no farther than the far side.
Make a buckle hole in it, and edge, black, crease, and finally prick
it.
Cut a loop ½ in. wide, trim it and place the chape in the buckle,
tacking it exactly in the centre of the head-piece, after having
cut a small nick exactly in the centre for the projecting tongue to
enter. Stitch it in place, running a line across at the end opposite
the buckle; then make four holes in each of the slits.
The winker strap is made as follows: Cut it from stiff leather 1½
in. by 13 in. long and remove the centre piece with a punch at the
top of the slit, the last being 7½ in. by ½ in. Beginning at the
slit, gradually narrow the other part to ¾ in. wide to run to the
head-piece buckle at the top. Crease, black, and rub well with a hot
iron and make three punch holes at the pointed end. Take the winkers
and open a small slit by cutting the stitches between the leather at
the top corner in the front; put a ½-in. length of the slit in each
winker and stitch the points there firmly.
All that is now required to complete the bridle is the throat lash;
make it 2 ft. 3 in. by ¾ in. and turn it down at each end to 1 ft. 8
in.; then make buckle holes in the bend and shave the points. Edge,
black, crease and rub well, prick the bend, and put in the buckles
with the bearing-rein swivels, one at each extremity. Having made a
loop or two between the buckles and swivels, stitch down the chapes,
going below the swivel sufficiently to keep it in place.
Put the bridle together by passing the ends of the front piece into
the rosette loops, and placing one slit of the head strap on each
side of the rosette loops at both ends of the front piece, the centre
buckle at the top pointing in the same direction as the front. Secure
the winker strap at the top buckle, and both inner slits of the head
strap in the top buckle of the cheeks; then pass the billet through
the noseband opening. Make sure that the noseband is buckled on the
near side, and then put the billets through the cheek of the bit and
up again through the loops on the outside of the noseband and cheek
buckle.
[Illustration: Fig. 187.—Chain and Leather Gig Front.]
The throat lash must now be buckled on the off side and the strap
passed through the loop on the near side; the noseband being buckled,
the bridle is finished. It may be coated with liquid blacking or
composition before it is put together, and the buckles and rosettes
can be cleaned with paste and washleather or a clean soft rag.
To make a bearing rein a middle piece must be cut 6 ft. by ¾ in.;
finish it and bend 2 in., making it ready for a buckle. Shave the end
thin and cut it to a point; if two buckles are employed both ends
must be prepared alike, but with only one buckle one end must be
pricked for stitching to the ring of the round part. Cut the round
parts 1⅜ in. wide and 2 ft. long; turn them down and narrow them to
¾ in. at one end, the turned-down part being 2 in. long. Turn down
about 1 in. at the other end and prepare it for a buckle, shaving
the point thin; then damp round the central part, bring the edges
together, and cut a groove on each side to sink the stitches.
With a blunt point, open the groove before stitching and have a piece
of cord thick enough to fill the inside and 1 in. longer at each
end; unravel it at the ends and thin the strands by pulling off some
of the material with an awl. Run one end of the cord through the
bearing-rein ring for an inch and whip it round with waxed hemp so
that it will be secured there.
Open the strands at the other end and put half of them on each side
of the buckle tongue at the part which will be in the leather; whip
this again fast to the buckle and see that it is of the right length
inside the round to reach tightly from the buckle to the ring when in
its place. It is now necessary to put the ring in the long bend and
the buckle in the short one.
Now cut a billet 9 in. by ¾ in., and after shaving one end thin,
round the other and prepare and crease it. Put it in the billet and
a loop, and stitch the other end fine in the ring; stitch the round
along the groove, being careful to have the thread in the centre of
the groove at both sides and to catch the points of the turn-down at
the ring and the point of the billet in the other end, between the
edges of the round part, making two or three stitches in each, thus
joining them firmly with the round part. Then with the spokeshave
trim them round and neat, rub with coarse glasspaper, and finish with
fine; close the edges of the groove well over the stitches and try to
make it look as much as possible like one round, solid piece.
After well blacking and polishing the bearing rein, give it a coat of
liquid blacking, polishing by sharp rubbing; finish neatly around the
ring and buckle, crease the loops, and make one or two holes in the
billets.
Now prepare the middle part. When there are two buckles, begin by
punching a dozen holes within 9 in. of each end; with one buckle of
course only one end is punched. Five running loops large enough to
pass over the strap double must now be made, as explained. When they
are finished and polished, put the two points together through one
of the loops and pull that loop to within 2 in. from the top; fix a
buckle on each side and two loops after each buckle with the right
side out. Now run the points through the rings to the buckle and put
a chape in place, fastening the buckle in about the sixth hole from
the end and leaving the chape unstitched. Then pull one loop over the
chape close to the buckle and the other loop down to the ring on each
side.
To make the crupper, cut out the body 2 ft. by 1¾ in. and slit it
for 8 in. at the strongest end; taper the other end to 1¼ in. wide
and cut a 1¼-in. billet 3 ft. 9 in. long. Shave the strong end thin
and round the other; cut the lay 16 in. by 1¼ in. and shave one end,
rounding the other. The points of the slits and the end of the body
must also be shaved, the slit points being tapered. Black and crease
them all, only the top of the lay being edged.
Place the round end of the lay close to the slit end, in the centre
of the body, and 4 in. from the round end make a deep cross line
followed by three other lines at intervals of 2 in., and at the same
distance from the fourth line cut a hole for the buckle; then put an
awl at each corner formed by the cross lines into both lay and body
so as to make a mark visible below; there will thus be a guide for
use when stitching underneath to indicate where to begin and end.
Cut a groove from the shaved end of the body as far as the first awl
mark below, then from the second to the third, and finally from the
fourth to a distance of about 1 in. towards the point of the lay;
this groove must be made on the underside. Cut through one half the
thickness of the leather at a sufficient distance from the edge to
catch the lay on both sides in stitching. Now adjust the buckle and
lay once again, and then trim four loops about ⅝ in. wide and place
one before the buckle, a second on the other side before reaching the
first opening, another between the two openings, and, finally, the
fourth beyond the lash.
The lay must be stitched in from the underside with double waxed
thread, a cross stitch being made at the corners of each opening and
the thread being brought straight over the opening to the opposite
corner without cutting. Stitch over the loop at the slit end, but no
farther, the remainder being stitched fine round the end from above.
It is better to stitch the crupper lay from below because it will
then be smoother and the stitches will not be so likely to rub the
hair off as when they are on the surface, there being much friction
at this part. Having placed the stick in the loops, finish with the
hot iron, making a running loop for the billet.
The dock (Fig. 188) that is placed under the tail is made of soft
close-grained leather, 1 ft. 3 in. in length, and tapered from the
centre on each side to about ⅞ in. when doubled over at the points.
Groove it carefully along the edges at a slight distance therefrom,
and stitch it loosely with three-cord fine hemp, about six per inch,
merely pulling the stitches home; then damp it well.
[Illustration: Fig. 188.]
[Illustration: Fig. 189.]
[Illustration: Fig. 190.]
[Illustration: Fig. 191.
Fig. 188.—Crupper Dock.
Fig. 189.—Breeching, etc.
Fig. 190.—Back-band.
Fig. 191.—Shaft Tugs.
]
Having a pint of whole linseed near at hand, drive a nail through
one end to close the opening, and then, placing the linseed on the
apron, scoop it in with the open end and ram the dock tight from
end to end with a stick or iron rod till it is filled. Take one end
in each hand and twist the piece to a round shape, endeavouring to
bring the stitches on the lower side. Knock the two ends with nails
in them into a flat board, and keeping the centre on the board, raise
both sides and draw them as close together as possible with a piece
of soft leather tied around them. Then allow them to dry and trim the
stitched part and sand it, rounding it with the other parts; polish
well, thin the top sides of the points, and knock them flat with the
hammer. Stitch one to each slit of the crupper body for about ¾ in.,
finish the edges, and put about a dozen holes in the billet.
To make the breeching (Fig. 189), cut the leather 7 ft. 6 in. by 1¾
in., and turn it in 4 in. at the better end, so that it will be 3 ft.
8 in. long when double. If the lower part is too long, cut it off,
allowing about 2 in. for splicing, and shave both ends. Both edges
must now be shaved on the inside of the top and bottom so as to slant
outwards; damp the top from one bend to the other. Round it on the
large groove of the grooving board, crease it along both edges, and
prick it eight per inch. If the bend seems too weak for the rings
these can be lined. Cut a strip of leather or an old rein, 1 in.
wide, and shave it round along the edges and at the ends; it must be
long enough to run from ring to ring.
Having prepared the rings and breeching dees (Fig. 178 and 179, p.
125), cut the bearers from good leather, 10 in. by ¾ in.; turn them
down so that the points will meet, and flatten the bends. Prepare one
end of each for the buckle, and cut a groove along the lower side,
where there is no joint, and open it. Place the buckles and dees in
two bearers and the rings and buckle in the two remaining, joining
them on the side under the loop. Stitch the ends together, making
them meet exactly in the centre of the bearer.
After edging the end bends, black them, because this would be
troublesome work later; then cut four loops, 3½ in. by 1⅜ in.,
blind-stitch them, and finish them like the others. Make the pattern
match, finish the back of the bearer, and close the groove well. A
ring must now be put in each end of the breeching, which is then
tacked in place for stitching. Place the lining lately cut in the
centre to raise and strengthen it, and then stitch along both the
sides with three-cord coarse hemp; reserve an opening about 6 in.
from the ring for the bearers, but do not fix these in it until the
body has been stitched and trimmed.
Some fancy style of stitching can be run along each end from the
ring about 6 in. when the straight lines have been stitched along
the sides, or have two extra straight lines instead of fancy work,
bringing the lines to a point at 6 in. from the ring, or again make
four rows all along the breeching.
The body being well trimmed and finished, put both bearers in on the
same side, one at each end where the opening was left. Before this,
however, put a small piece of leather inside to fill the hollow
square in the breeching dees; stitch this firmly in place.
For a hip-strap to match the breeching, cut a strap 4 ft. long and a
little more than double the width of the buckles on the bearers; slit
it for 16 in. at each end, each slit being the width of the bearer
buckles, and if it is altogether too wide, the waste should come off
the centre. Then edge, black, and crease it neatly and put eight
holes in each end.
The breeching straps to go round the shafts must be cut 3 ft. 3 in.
by 1¼ in., and when the light ends are turned down, are 2 ft. 6 in.
long. Round the point, and shave that of the turn over; then prepare
the bend for the buckle, and edge, black, and crease.
Cut four strong loops about ⅞ in. wide, and having neatly finished
them, prick along about 3 in. from the buckle on the lower side. Tack
on the two loops, one near the buckle in the usual position, and
the other close to it but in the reverse position to turn under the
strap. Stitch them with strong thread, and, having finished them,
bend the strap from the loop to the end of the underpiece and run a
dozen stitches on each side at the point. Bend it so that when in
position in the ring the parts will be even; if stitched without
bending, the lower part will pucker. Finish the loops and put six
holes in each strap.
The back-band (Fig. 190, p. 147) may now be cut out, its complete
length being 8 ft. The centre piece passing through the saddle is 3
ft. 3 in. long, the strap or buckling end measuring 1 ft. 6 in., and
the remainder being for girth. If it is for a van harness it must
be in three thicknesses along the centre, but the strap end will be
strong enough in two thicknesses; when the belly-band part is very
light it may also be thickened a little. Place the belly-band buckle
in the belly-band end, and if necessary line the chape; then round
the point at the strap end. Crease all along and make two rows on
each side of the centre, bringing them together in a point at the
extremities. Strictly speaking, one row on each side of the belly
band and strap will suffice, but four rows are better; in the last
case, crossing the two middle centre lines at the end of the centre
part will improve the appearance.
An opening must be left in the stitching about 1½ in. from the
buckle, and two openings lower down, 2 in. apart, to receive three
loops when the back-band has been completed. Stitch it about eight
per inch, with four-cord thread.
For finishing, use a spokeshave, and rub the stitches underneath to
level them well; round the edges well towards the stitches, making
the edges neat in appearance. Scrape it with glasspaper, place the
buckle on the hook, and black the edges and stitches; rub vigorously
with the rag in the right hand, holding each side of the back-band
with the other. The hand should be moved briskly backwards and
forwards so as to dry and polish the edges well. Now pass a ball of
tallow along the edges and again rub well with the rag, after which
the three loops may be placed on the belly band and stitched from
below, the reverse side to the other stitches. Then punch eight
or nine holes in the strap and three in the centre part at equal
distances from each crossing of the middle row of stitches, or from
the point of the inner rows if the centre only has four rows of
stitching. Leave about 1 ft. 6 in. in the centre without holes.
The shaft tugs (Fig. 191, p. 147) are made by cutting a 1 ft. 7¾ in.
length of leather to the same width as the buckles and back-band—that
is, 1¾ in. Overlap this piece 4½ in., the overlap then being bent
together and knocked flat in the centre. Through both leathers cut a
hole for a buckle in the bend, and shave a little on the sides of the
hole underneath where the tongue enters, so that the buckle will run
close to the leather.
Shave both ends, the inner very thin and the outer or top one
moderately, cutting a little off each corner. Crease two rows on
each side as on the back-band, and, having pricked the rows seven
per inch, place the brass or nickel loop loose on the strap and
adjust the buckle therein. Draw the two holes in the centre, where
the buckle is placed, exactly opposite each other, and stitch the
top point of the overlap along the two inner lines for about 2 in.
through the two leathers.
The shape being now obtained, the tug must be filled and thickened.
This is done by cutting a piece of leather to fit the inside tight
from one side of the buckle to the other, keeping the buckle in
position while working. Cut a nick in the centre of each end of this
piece so that the tongue and sides may fit close to the buckle, and
then cut another good piece of leather to go round inside tight and
to overlap at the top for about 1½ in. Now shave each end and cut
a groove on each side for about the length of the loop on the part
intended for it, and overlap it on the side opposite the loop just
below the buckle, with the outer point of the overlap on the top
pointing towards the buckle and not downwards.
If the tug needs more thickening, place another piece under the
inside lining to reach from the metal loop (placed below the leather
loop) round the bottom and about halfway up the other side, leaving
it with its thickness at the end near the metal loop; shave the other
end thin.
The metal loop must fit tight between the end of the piece and the
leather loop. It must now be tacked together from the inside, the
joint at the overlap being made firm. The lining should be of sole
leather; damp it well so that it will fit into its place and be
easier to stitch. Begin stitching at the buckle with four-cord thread
and work round to the metal loop; then begin at this part on the
other side and stitch to the buckle. Continue to work in this way
until four rows are stitched.
Trim the edges, and black and polish them, paying particular
attention to the part about the buckle.
There is an opening from the metal loop to the buckle remaining
unstitched; this, with a groove cut underneath on the lower side, is
for the loop, which must be about 2 in. wide. Having inserted one
side for about half the width of the tug, stitch it with six-cord
double waxed thread from the buckle to the metal loop, being careful
to bring the awl out with each stitch in the centre of the groove.
Stitch the other side as far as the buckle and make two or three
cross stitches on each side of the buckle.
If there is much unevenness on the part from the end of the loop to
the buckle, a little filling may be put in the space. The loop must
be longer than usual because the back-band is extra thick. Shape the
loop with a thick bent loop-stick big enough to make plenty of room
for a back-band. Black and finish the loop, make a pattern or check
it if necessary, and then remove all unevenness, close the grooves,
and trim neatly about the loop and buckle. Repeat the operation with
the second tug, and then all will be ready.
The big loops for a shaft and the hame tugs, etc., must always be
made of firm loop leather, which will grow hard in finishing and
retain its firmness and shape in spite of rain and weather.
[Illustration: Fig. 192.—Four-wheeled Cab Saddle.]
[Illustration: Fig. 193.—Cab Saddle Tree.]
For the traces, trace end chains will be needed; van and cab traces
are stitched to the hames, being shortened by having ten or twelve
links of a chain at the other end. The traces may be 4 ft. 9 in. long
by 1¾ in., being 1 ft. 1 in. longer with a chain. They must be in
three thicknesses, but with two thicknesses to go through the chain
dee and hame ring (Fig. 171, p. 123).
In putting the upper and lower part together, place the light end
of one against the heavy end of the other, thus levelling the trace
and making it of equal strength. Shave the points well where one
ends and another begins—for example, the lining in the hame ring
and chain dee. Having turned the leathers down to the right length,
crease and prick them, seven or eight per inch. Tack down with only
the chain on and stitch the four rows, but not so far in the hame end
as to prevent the hame ring being placed in position when they are
finished. When both are stitched, trim, black, and polish them; then
rub down the stitches underneath, and having fixed them to the hame
ring, stitch them to it, and finish that end like the other parts.
[Illustration: Fig. 194.]
[Illustration: Fig. 195.]
[Illustration: Fig. 196.
Fig. 194.—Hansom Cab Saddle. Figs. 195 and 196.—Rein Stops.]
Make two hame straps ⅞ in. wide, the top strap 1 ft. 10 in. long, and
the lower 1 ft. 4 in. Adjust the buckles at the strong ends and make
two loops, reversing them as on the breeching straps; have seven or
eight holes in each.
The driving reins are 1 in. wide, and the forepart near the horse’s
head is 6 ft. long on each side. Turn down the chapes at the strong
ends for the buckles, and shave the point thin; then cut two billets,
1 ft. long, from a firm piece of leather. Shave one end and round the
other, and, having cut two loops, edge and finish them; then rub all
and crease them close to the edge with a hot creaser.
Adjust the buckles, prick the part of the billet to be stitched a
little inside the outer crease, and stitch the billets in with the
loop. When the loops are finished, make a hole in each billet far
enough from the point to allow what is over to come through the loop,
and cover the stitches on the front.
[Illustration: Fig. 197.—Hansom Cab Harness.]
Make the brown hand parts 5 ft. 6 in. long, and narrow the light end
of one part to pass through into a ¾-in. covered buckle; then turn
down the other point and narrow it for the buckle chape. Finally,
prepare a narrow brown loop. Shave and taper the other end of the
hand parts to a point, edge both sides below and under, and damp the
edges with gum and water, or with water only. Polish them well by
rubbing, making them even everywhere; brown paper is excellent for
polishing either black or brown edges.
After creasing them very near the edge with a screw crease, place the
buckle and loop on the end and mark a line a little inside the outer
one, about 2½ in. or 3 in. long, on the end to be spliced on the
fore-part. Prick it fine and stitch with a fine thread, pointing the
stitches in the upper end to the same shape as the others. The hand
parts can be obtained ready cut with buckles, and then all that has
to be done is to shave the ends and stitch them to the fore-parts.
Four-wheel cab harness can be made in the same way as van harness,
except the saddle (Fig. 192), which is made exactly like a gig
saddle, but is heavier and has brass or nickel screw studs in each
corner of the skirts; Fig. 193 shows the top or tree.
Hansom cab harness is not much different, though the saddle (Fig.
194) is lighter, and some have rollers inside the saddle so that the
back-band may run smoothly backwards and forwards through the tree;
these trees are made to order. In Fig. 197, A indicates the noseband,
B winker, C forehead band, E throatlash, F cheek, G rein, H collar,
I trace, J saddle, K shaft tug, L cantle of saddle, M crupper, N tug
strap, O bearer, P breeching, and R shaft strap.
The hansom reins must be about 20 ft. long on each side, each
brown hand part being about 7 ft. long. They are generally showy
and ornamental. Winkers and saddle, hip straps, martingale, and
breastplate have ornaments, the reins have ivory rings and stops
(Figs. 195 and 196), and there is a face piece ornament on the bridle.
Both four-wheeler and hansom harness (Fig. 197) are larger and
heavier than gig harness, except at the saddle.
INDEX.
Awls, 21, 22
Back Stitching, 52
Backband Hook, Plough, 107
——, Van Harness, 150
Backs, Hide, 37, 39, 40
Ball Terret, 124
Band, Forehead, 68
Bands, Mill, 40
——, Nose, 68
Basils, 40
Beeswax, 30
Bells and Brush, Bridle, 63
Belly Band, Cart, 99
Belt, Waist, 49
Bent Awl, 21
Bevellers, 21
Billet, 93
Bits, 111-116
Black Wax, 31, 33, 45
Black-ball, 44
Board, Cutting, 42
Body-belt Webs, 45
Box Creased Loop, 57
—— Loop, 57
—— Strap, 49
—— Spurs, 116
Brace End Punch, 15
Brass Face-pieces, 63
—— Gear Buckles, Scotch, 63
—— Hame Plates, 63
—— Nails, 35
—— Ornaments, 63
—— Polishing Paste, 47
—— Squares, 63
—— Swing, 63
Breaking Bit, 116
Breeching, Cart Harness, 96
——, Van Harness, 149
Bridle, 70
—— Hides, 38
Bridoon Bits, 112, 114, 115
Bronzing for Leather, 48
Brown Gear Hides, 40
—— Harness Hides, 40
—— Shoulders, 39
—— Stain, 46
—— Wax, 45
Brush and Bells for Bridle, 63
Buckle Tongue Punch, 14
Buckles, 63, 118-126
Buff Hides, White, 41
Buff Middling, White Bleached, 41
Bull Hides, Enamelled, 41
Burgess’s Buckles, 124
Burnisher, 44
Butts, Black Strap, 38
Buxton Bit, 115
Cab, Hansom, Harness for, 156
—— Harness, 156
—— Saddle, 156
—— Tree, 156
Calf-skins, 40
Cart Belly Band, 99
—— Collars, 75-85
—— Harness, 62-74
—— Saddles, 86-100
—— ——, Panel of, 86
—— ——, Tree for, 86
Cement, Leather, 47
Chain Front, 141
Chains, 125
——, Hip-strap, 103
Chapes, 66
Chased Buckles, 123
Chatham Buckles, 123
Checkers, 20
Cheek Curb Bit, Globe, 114
Chin Strap, 71
Clamp or Clams, 24
Clip, Hame, 123
Clout Nails, 34
Coach Hides, 41
Collar, Cart, 75-85
——, Lining, 78
——, Pipe, 77
—— Rod, Iron, 27
—— Side-piece, 83
——, Van, 128
Coloured Flocks, 36
Couplings for Plough Gear, 110
Compasses, 21
——, Race, 21
Composition, Harness, 46
Corner-piece, Nose-band, 69
Cow-backs, Japanned, 38
Cow-hides, Enamelled, 41
Creased Loop, Box, 57
Creases, 19
Crew Punch, 14
Crupper, Cart Harness, 93
—— Dock, 146
Crupper, Van Harness, 145
Curb Bit, 115
—— ——, Globe Cheek, 114
Cut Tacks, 34
Cutter, Washer, 13
Cutting Board, 42
—— Gauge, 10, 11
—— Pliers, 27
Cutting up Hides, 42
Dees, Breeching, 148
Diaper Webs, 45
Dock, 146
Double-rein Hides, 39
Dress Spurs, 116
Drummed Flocks, 36
Dye, 35
Dyeing, Iron Liquor for, 45
Ear-piece, 69
Edge Trimmers, 12
Enamelled Hides, 41
Exercising Bit, 116
Face-pieces, Brass, 63
Farm Harness, Oil for, 47
Felt, 36
Files, 29
Flap Hides, Japanned, 38
Flocks, 36
Flour Paste, 45
Fly-terrets, 124
Foot-rule, 21
Fore Gear and Leader Harness, 101-106
Forehead Band, 68
—— ——, Van Harness, 141
Forewale, 76
Fork, Straining, 29
Four-wheel Cab Harness, 156
Gauge, Cutting, 10, 11
——, Plough, 11
Gear Buckles, Scotch, 63
—— Hides, Brown, 40
——, Plough, 107-110
——, Shaft, 62
Gig Curb Bit, 115
—— Harness, 127
—— Snaffle, 113
Gilding Leather, 48
Girth, Cart Saddle, 91
—— Chape Punch, 15
——, Van Harness, 137
—— Webs, 44
Globe Cheek Curb Bit, 114
Hackney Bits, 112, 113
Half-moon Scalloping Irons, 16
Hame Clip, 125
—— Knobs, Brass, 63
—— Plates, Brass, 63
—— Straps, 99
—— Tug Loops, 153
Hames, 124-125
Hammer, 17
Hand Knife, 10
—— Punch, 15
Hand-iron, 23
Hansom Cab Harness, 156
—— —— Saddle, 156
Hard Wax, 31
Harness, Cab, 127-156
——, Cart, 62-74
—— Composition, 46
——, Fore Gear and Leader, 101-106
——, Gig, 127
—— Jet, 47
—— Oil, 47
——, Plough, 107-110
——, Van, 127-156
—— Waterproof Paste, 47
Head Knife, 10
—— Strap, 73
Head-collar Rein Backs, 39
Hearts, Brass, 63
Hemp, 30, 33
Hides, 37-42
——, Cutting up, 42
Hind Tugs, 97
Hip-strap Chains, 103
Hog-skins, 40
Hook, Plough Back-band, 107
——, Wire, 61
Horse Hides, Japanned, 38
Horsehair, Curled, 36
Housing, Cart Saddle, 92
Iron Collar Rod, 27
——, Hand, 23
—— Liquor for Dyeing, 45
——, Palm, 23
——, Pricking, 18
——, Scalloping, 16
—— Seat, 27
Jambles Plates, 63
Japanned Hides, 38
—— Nails, 34
—— Welting Seals, 38
—— Winker Hides, 38
Jet, Harness, 47
Knives, 10
Lace Needles, 53
Ladies’ Horse Bits, 112
—— Spurs, 116
—— Stirrups, 117
Lash, Throat, 73
Lead Piece for Punching, 16
Leader Harness, Fore Gear and, 101-106
Leather, 37-42
——, Bronzing, 48
—— Cement, 47
——, Fancy, 41
Leather Preserver, 47
——, Patent, Reviver for, 46
——, Testing Quality of, 41
Lignum-vitæ Round Mallet, 17
Linen Threads, 30
Lining Cart Saddle Panel, 87
—— Collar, 78
—— Winkers, 127
Liverpool Bits, 114
Loin Straps, 98
Loop, Box, 57
——, Creasing, 59
—— Leather, Dyeing, 35
——, Pipe, 57
——, Running, 49, 57
Looping, 57-61
Loop-sticks, 28
Machine, Slitting, 11
Mallets, 17
Materials, 30-48
Melbourne Buckles, 124
Middling, White Bleached Buff, 41
Mill Bands, 40
Nail-claw, 27
Nails, 34, 35
Needles, 22
——, Threading, 51
Nipple, Hand Punch, 16
Nose-band, 63
——, Van Harness, 140
Octagons, Brass, 63
Officers’ Spurs, 116
Oil, Harness, 47
Oval Punch, 13, 14
Ovals, Brass, 63
Ox Hides, Enamelled, 41
Palm-iron, 23
Panel, Cart Saddle, 86
——, Van Saddle, 134
Paring Knife, 10
Paste, 45, 127
——, Brass Polishing, 47
——, Harness, 47
Patent Leather Reviver, 46
Pelham Bits, 112
—— Snaffles, 113
Pincers, 27
Pipe Collar, 77
—— Loop, 57
Plate Powder, 47
Pliers, 27
Plough Back-band Hook, 107
—— Gear Couplings, 110
—— Harness, 107-110
Plough-gauge, 11
Pocket-book or Purse Hides, 40
Polishing Paste, Brass, 47
Powder, Plate, 47
Preserver, Leather, 47
Prickers, Wheel, 19
Pricking-iron, 18
Punches, 13-16
Punching, Lead Piece for, 16
Purse or Pocket-book Hides, 40
Race Compasses, 21
—— Girth Webs, 44
Rasps, 29
Rein, 73
—— Backs, Head-collar, 39
—— Hides and Backs, 38
—— Stops, 156
Reins, Van Harness, 154
Reviver, Patent Leather, 46
Riding Bits, 112
—— Saddles, Stain for, 46
Rivets, 126
Roller Buckles, 126
—— Girth Webs, 44
Rosette Punches, 16
Round Awl, 22
—— File, 29
—— Knife, 10
—— Punch, 13, 14
Round-headed Nails, 34
Rubber, 28
Running Loop, 50, 57
Russet Brown Stain, 46
Saddle, Cab, 156
——, Cart, 86-100
—— Girths, 91
——, Hansom Cab, 156
—— Stain, 46
—— Straps, 91
——, Van, 130
Safety Slipper Stirrup, 117
Scalloping Irons, 16
Scotch Brass Gear Buckles, 63
Screw Crease, 19
—— Race, 19
—— Spurs, 116
Seals, Japanned Welting, 38
Seal-skins, 41
Seat Awl, 22
—— Iron, 27
Sewing Awl, 21
Shaft Gear, 62
—— Tug Buckles, 124
—— Tugs, Clamp for Sewing, 24
—— ——, Van, 151
Sheep-skins, 40
Sheep’s Wool, 36
Shoulders, Hide, 38-40
Show or Stallion Bit, 116
Silk Threads, 30
Single Crease, 19
Skins, Calf, 40
——, Hog, 40
——, Seal, 41
——, Sheep, 40
——, White, 53
Skirt Hides and Backs, 40
Slipper Stirrups, 117
Slitting Machine, 11
Snaffles, 113, 116
Spokeshave, 11
Spur Shoulders, Black, 38
Spurs, 116
Square File, 29
Squares, Brass, 63
Stain, 35
Stains, Various, 46
Stallion or Show Bit, 116
Stars, Brass, 63
Steel Seat-iron, 27
Stirrup Hides, 40
Stirrups, 117
Stitching Awls, 21
——, Back, 52
——, Simple Exercises in, 49-56
—— with White Lace, 52
Straight Scalloping Irons, 16
Straining Fork, 29
—— Webs, 45
Strap, Box, 49
—— Butts, Black, 38
—— for Cart Saddle, 91
——, Chin, 71
——, Hame, 99
——, Head, 73
——, Loin, 98
——, Winker, 72
Swing, Brass, 63
Swivelled Bridoon Bit, 115
Swivels, 124
Tacks, Cut, 34
Tallow, 31
Team Harness, Oil for, 47
Terrets, 124
Threads, 30, 33, 75
Throat Lash, 73
Tools, 10-29
Trace Backs, 37
——, Van Harness, 153
Tree, Cab Saddle, 156
Tree, Cart Saddle, 86
——, Van Saddle, 132
Trimmers, Edge, 12
Trousers Spurs, 116
Tugs, Hind, 97
Van Collar, 123
—— Harness, 127-155
—— Saddle, 130
Vandyke Scalloping Irons, 16
Vice, 27
Waist-belt, 49-56
Washer Cutter, 13
Waterproof Harness Paste, 47
Wax, Black, 31, 33, 45
——, Brown, 45
——, Hard, 31
——, White, 30
Waxed Threads, 30
Webs, 44, 45
Welting Seals, Japanned, 38
West End Buckles, 122-124
Weymouth Bits, 112
Wheel Prickers, 19
White Bleached Buff Middling, 41
—— Buff Hides, 41
—— Flocks, 36
—— Hemp Thread, 33
—— Lace, Stitching with, 52
—— Skin, 53
—— Wax, 30
Wilson Snaffle, 113
Winker Hides, 38
—— ——, Japanned, 38
—— Straps, 72
—— ——, Van Harness, 142
Winkers, 64, 127
Wire Hook, 61
—— Nails, 34
Wrench, 27
Yellow Hemp Thread, 33
—— Stain, 46
PRINTED BY CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, E.C.
Transcriber’s Notes
pg 24 Added period after: part of the iron is not available
pg 53 Changed: With the wheel pricker
to: With the wheel-pricker
pg 59 Changed: When finished, apply a litle
to: When finished, apply a little
pg 99 Changed: these face-pieces being a litle
to: these face-pieces being a little
Many hyphenated and non-hyphenated word combinations left as written.
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