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Title: The Totall Discourse of The Rare Adventures & Painefull Peregrinations - of long Nineteene Yeares Travayles from Scotland to the - most famous Kingdomes in Europe, Asia and Affrica
Author: Lithgow, William
Language: English
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The Totall Discourse
of
THE RARE ADVENTURES
&
PAINEFULL PEREGRINATIONS
of long Nineteene Yeares Travayles from
Scotland to the most famous Kingdomes in
Europe, Asia and Affrica
By
WILLIAM LITHGOW
Glasgow
James MacLehose and Sons
Publishers to the University
MCMVI
THE TABLE
PAGE
Publishers' Note, ix
The Epistle Dedicatory, xvii
The Prologue to the Reader, xxi
Panegyricke Verses upon the Author and his Booke, xxv
The Author to his Booke, xxxi
The First Part, 1
The Second Part, 40
The Third Part, 70
The Fourth Part, 118
The Fifth Part, 153
The Sixth Part, 212
The Seaventh Part, 265
The Eight Part, etc., 299
The Ninth Part, 333
The Tenth Part, 370
Index, 440
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
The Author's Portracture, Frontispiece
Facsimile of the Title Page of the Edition of 1632, xxvii
The Author's Portracture, 110
The Author in his Turkish Dress, 128
From The Pilgrimes Farewell to his Native Countrey
of Scotland.
The Armes of Jerusalem, 252
King James his foure Crownes, 252
The Model of the Great Seale of the Guardians of the
Holy Grave, 254
The Modell of the Great City of Fez, 322
The Author in the Libyan Desart, 328
The Author beset with Six Murderers in Moldavia, 364
The Author in Irons in the Governour's Palace at Malaga, 396
The Author in the Racke at Malaga, 402
PUBLISHERS' NOTE
William Lithgow was born in Lanark about 1582. The actual date of his
birth is uncertain, but he states (page 377) that he was thirty-three
in 1615, and in 'The present Surveigh of London' 'past threescore
years' in April, 1643. He was the eldest son of James Lithgow,
Burgess of Lanark, and Alison Grahame, his wife. He was educated at
Lanark Grammar School, and, according to Sir Walter Scott, [1] was
'bred a tailor.' Scott does not, however, give his authority for
this statement. Lithgow seems to have started his travels at a very
early age, having 'a large infusion of the wandering spirit common
to his country-men.' [2] He says himself that 'neither ambition,
too much curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought did expose
me to such long peregrinations and dangerous adventures past'--but
'that undeserved Dalida wrong.' What this mysterious 'Dalida wrong'
was is unknown, but family tradition has it that the four brothers,
'foure blood-shedding wolves,' of a certain Miss Lockhart, finding
their sister with Lithgow, set upon him and cut off his ears, and
from this arose his local nickname of '"Cutlugged" or "Lugless"
Will.' Be this as it may, by 1609, Lithgow had made 'two voyages
to the Orcadian and Zetlandian Isles, in the stripling age of mine
adolescency, and there after surveighing all Germany, Bohemia,
Helvetia, and the Low-Countreys from end to end; I visited Paris,
where I remained ten moneths.'
From Paris, on March 7th, 1609, Lithgow set out on the first of the
three journeys of which he gives an account in his 'Totall Discourse,'
where he claims that his 'paynefull feet traced over (beside my
passages of Seas and Rivers) thirty-six thousand and odde miles,
which draweth neare to twice the circumference of the whole Earth.'
It was on the third of these journeys, when passing through Spain
with the intention of seeing 'Great Prester Jehan and his Empire,'
that he was thrown into prison in Malaga as a spy and severely
tortured. He was released by the intervention of the English Consul
there and the English Ambassador at Madrid, backed by a division of
King James' Navy which, under the command of Sir Robert Maunsell,
happened opportunely to be lying in Malaga Roads, on its return from
the expedition against Algiers.
On his arrival at Dartford, fifty days after leaving Malaga, Lithgow
was carried to the Court at Theobalds, and exhibited his 'martyrd
anatomy' to the whole Court, 'even from the King to the Kitchin.' At
the King's expense he was sent twice to Bath, where he recovered his
health, although his left arm and crushed bones were incurable. Early
in 1622 he was sent to the Marshalsea prison for a long period [3] for
assaulting, in the presence chamber, the Spanish Ambassador Gondomar,
whose empty promises of redress for his sufferings at Malaga had
exasperated Lithgow beyond endurance.
In 1624 Lithgow preferred a Bill of Grievance to the House of Lords,
which he daily followed for seventeen weeks, but 'the house breaking
up abruptly their order for my suite could take none effect as then,
nor yet since, in regard it was no Session Parliament.' In the spring
of 1627 he left the Court for Scotland; he traversed the Western
Isles, and was 'kindly intertayned' in Brodick Castle by James,
Marquess of Hamilton.
In 1632 Lithgow published the first collected edition [4] of his
Travels, under the title of 'The Totall Discourse Of the Rare
Aduentures and painefull Peregrinations of long nineteene Yeares
Trauayles, from Scotland, to the most Famous Kingdomes in Europe,
Asia, and Affrica.... Imprinted at London by Nicholas Okes.' The
publication seems to have got him immediately into trouble, probably
owing to the Spanish influence at Court, as there is a petition extant
[5] from him in which he states that he 'had no satisfaction for his
grievous torments sustained in Malaga, and having in the description
of his foreign travels succinctly avouched the woeful memory of such
disastrous accidents, had been this long time committed close prisoner
to the Gatehouse, when he had contracted great sickness to the danger
of his life. The printer in whom only the reprehension was, is long ago
"decarcerat," but he is retained in severe punishment.' He protests
that he will never 'meddle any more with the Spaniard however his
lamentable wrongs remain unrepaired.'
On the 16th May, 1637, Lithgow, mounted on a 'Gallowegian nagge,'
left Scotland, where he had been the guest of the Earl of Galloway,
intending to embark at London for Russia, but shipping failing,
and summer being over, he resolved to go instead to Breda, and on
his return published 'A True and Experimentall Discourse, upon the
beginning, proceeding and Victorious event of this last Siege of
Breda ... London: Printed by J. Okes for J. Rothwel ... 1637.'
On 24th August, 1643, Lithgow again left Scotland, embarking at
Prestonpans for London, 'In all which deserted way, betweene Forth and
Gravesend, wee found onely three ships, two Scotsmen and a Noruegian,
and one of the royall whelps lying at anker in Aermouth road, which
made the sea resemble a wildernesse.' As the result of this visit,
he published 'The present Surveigh of London and England's State
... London, Printed by J. O. 1643.' In this book Lithgow gives an
interesting account of the fortifications raised by the citizens for
defence against the Royalist army. The last work known to have been
published by him is 'An Experimental and Exact Relation upon that
famous and renowned Siege of Newcastle ... Edinburgh, printed by
Robert Bryson 1645.' From this date all trace of him is lost; the
date of his death and the place of his burial are unknown, though
there is a tradition that he died in Lanark, and lies buried in the
churchyard of St. Kentigern there.
Editions of 'The Totall Discourse' were published in London in 1640
and 1682, and in Edinburgh in 1770 and 1814, while a volume of the
'Poetical Remains of William Lithgow,' containing valuable 'Prefatory
Remarks,' was collected and published by Dr. James Maidment in
Edinburgh in 1863.
The text of 'The Totall Discourse' now published is a reprint of
the editio princeps of 1632. References to the pages of the original
edition are given in the margin. The letters i, j, u, and v have been
altered to conform to modern usage, and obvious printers' errors
both of spelling and punctuation have been corrected. The index of
the original text has been replaced by a fuller one in this edition.
Glasgow,
September, 1906.
THE TOTALL DISCOURSE
of the
Rare Adventures and Painefull Peregrinations
of long Nineteene Yeares Travayles
from Scotland to the most famous
Kingdomes in Europe, Asia
and Affrica
To the High and mighty Monarch,
CHARLES,
By the Grace of GOD, King of Great Britaine,
France, and Ireland, &c.
GRACIOUS SIR;
If Loyall Duty may bee counted presumption? then doubtlesse the best of
my meanest worth must beg pardon, for clayming so Royall a Patronage:
Yet to whom should I prostrate my Pen and Pilgrimage? if not unto your
Sacred Majesty: Nay, none so able to Receive it, none so powerfull
to Protect it; and none so justly to claime it, as your Soveraigne
Selfe. The Subject treateth of my tedious and curious Travailes, in
the best and worst parts of the world; which being begunne in Your
hopefull Infancy, are now finally accomplished in the fulnesse of
Your thrice blessed Majority.
The generall Discourse it selfe, is most fixed upon the Lawes,
Religion, Manners, Policies, and Government of Kings, Kingdomes,
People, Principalities and Powers; and therefore so much the more
fit for your Majesty. The defect resting onely in me, the worthlesse
Author, in handling a rare and plentifull Subject, with a homely and
familiar Stile; no wayes fit for Soveraignity to peruse.
Yet (Royall Sir) vouchsafe to remember how thankefully Alexander,
received a small Cup of Water; and what a high Value was set upon
the Widdowes Mite. If I have made use of my poore Talent, the profit
redoundeth unto my Country; which being shaddowed under your auspicuous
Favour, shall leave a greater stampe to the Worke, and a deeper
impression, of future knowledge, to the curious Understanders. And
how often wont your ever blessed Father, graciously to peruse Lines
of mine, of far lesser note then these be: Yea, and (viva voce) the
punctuall Discourse of all my three Voyages, which are now layd open
to the Vulgar World; and therefore I dare humbly expect a greater
favour for a larger and more serious Taske.
So likewise your owne Princely adventures beyond Seas, in measuring
large Kingdomes, & the glassie face of the great Ocean: have invited
me to lay prostrate my painefull peregrinations, at your Sacred
feete. Humbly beseeching your Regall goodnesse, to remarke the
matter and manner of this Worke; howsoever the Gift, & the Giver
bee deficient. And questionlesse as the Bee, gathereth sweetest
Hony out of sowrest Flowers, your Royall understanding may finde
something, to underprope the Defects of my nothing; and my soule to
exult in the smallest sparke of your Gracious Clemency. And lastly,
the grievous Sufferings, tortures, and torments, I sustayned in
Malaga, being taken as a Spye for your Late Fathers Fleete, exposed
agaynst Algier: and condemned to death by their bloody Inquisition
for the Gospells sake. These (I prostrate say) doe command me to
present the perfect passage thereof, unto your Royall & Religious
consideration. Sufficient Certificates, and infallible approbations
are annexed to the Tragicall discourse it selfe; and it also humbly
bequeathing all, unto your Princely piety and pitty, to Commiserate
both my case and cause. Wherefore (and as duty bindeth) I shall ever
beseech God to preserve your Royall Raigne from wicked Achitophells,
to guard your Sacred person with Heavenly Angels, and to guide your
Monarchicke State, with faithful and Religious Counsellours.
AMEN.
Your Majesties most humble,
and most obedient Subject,
and Servant:
William Lithgow.
THE PROLOGUE TO THE READER
Judicious Lector; if good Bookes may be tearmed wise guides, then
certainely true Histories, may be tearmed perfite Oracles, secret
Counsellours, private Schoolemasters, familiar friends to cherish
knowledge, and the best Intelligencers, for all intendements; being
duely pondered, and rightly used. This laborious worke then of mine,
depending on this preamble, is onely composed of mine owne eye sight,
and occular experience; (pluris est occulatus testis unus, quam auriti
decem) being the perfit mirrour, and lively Portraicture of true
understanding, excelling far all inventions whatsoever, Poeticque,
or Theoricque. And now to shun Ingratitude, which I disdaine as Hell,
I thought it best to exhibit the profit of my paynefull travailes to
the desirous world; for two respects, the one a naturall obligation,
the other a generall request: for as my dangerous adventures, have bene
wrought out from the infinit variety of variable sights, innumerable
toyles, pleasures, and inevitable sorrowes; so doth it also best
simpathize with reason, and most fitting, that I should generally
dispose of the same, to the temperate judgements of the better sort,
the sound and absolute opinions of the Judicious; and to the variable
censures of calumnious Critticks, who run at random, in the fields
of other mens labours, but can not find the home-bred way in their
owne close grounds: And therefore the different disposition of the
good and bad, doe best concurre with the interchangeable occurrences
of the matter.
Neverthelesse, for thy more easier understanding I have divided
this History, in ten severall parts, and they also in three Bookes;
which being seriously perused, doubtlesse thy labour shall receave
both profit and pleasure: Accept them therefore with the same love,
that I offer them to thee, since they cost thee nothing but the
reading, how deare soever they are to mee: But understand me better,
I scorne to draw my pen to the ignorant foole, neither shall it stoop
to the proud Knave, for I contemne both: To the wise I know it will be
welcome, to the profound Historian, yeeld knowledge, contemplation, and
direction, and to the understanding Gentleman, insight, instruction,
and recreation; and to the true-bred Poet fraternall love, both in
meane and manner. Now as touching the hissing of snakish Papists;
a tush for that snarling Crew; for as this worke, being fensed
with experience, and garnished with trueth, is more than able to
batter downe the stinging venome of their despightfull waspishnes:
so also they may clearely see therein, as in a Mirrour, their owne
blindnes, and the damnable errours of their blind Guiders, Deceavers,
and Idolaters: And above all the cruell infliction imposed upon me,
by the mercilesse Inquisition of their profession in Malaga: which for
Christs sake I constantly suffered, in tortures, tormentes, and hunger:
And lastly they may perceave Gods miraculous mercy, in discovering
and delivering me from such a concealed and inhumane murder. And
now referring the well set Reader to the History it selfe, where
satisfaction lyeth ready to receave him, and expectation desirous of
deserved thanks; I come to talke with the scelerate Companion: If thou
beest a Villane, a Ruffian, a Momus, a Knave, a Carper, a Crittick, a
Bubo, a Buffon, a stupid Asse, and a gnawing worme with envious lips;
I bequeath thee to a Carnificiall reward: where a flaxing rope will
soone dispatch thy snarling slander, and free my toylsome travells,
and now paynefull labours, from the deadly poyson of thy sharpe edged
calumnies: and so go hang thy selfe, for I neither will respect thy
love, nor regard thy malice: And shall ever and alwayes remayne;
To the Courteous still observant, and to
the Critticall Knave as he deserveth,
William Lithgow.
PANEGYRICKE VERSES UPON THE AUTHOR AND HIS BOOKE
To his singular Friend Maister Lithgow.
The double travell (Lithgow) thou hast tane,
One of thy Feete, the other of thy Brane,
Thee, with thy selfe; doe make for to contend,
Whether the earth, thou'st better pac'd or pend.
Would Malagaes sweet liquor had thee crownd,
And not its trechery made thy joynts unsound,
For Christ, King, Countrey, what thou there indur'd
Not them alone, but therein all injur'd:
Their tort'ring Rack, arresting of thy pace
Hath barr'd our hope, of the worlds other face:
Who is it sees this side so well exprest,
That with desire, doth not long for the rest.
Thy travell'd Countreyes so described be,
As Readers thinke, they doe each Region see,
Thy well compacted matter, ornat stile,
Doth them oft, in quicke sliding Time beguile,
Like as a Mayde, wandring in Floraes Boures
Confind to small time, of few flitting houres,
Rapt with delight, of her eye-pleasing treasure,
Now culling this, now that Flower, takes such pleasure;
That the strict time, whereto she was confin'd
Is all expir'd: whiles she thought halfe behind,
Or more remayn'd: So each attracting line
Makes them forget the time, they doe not tyne:
But since sweet future travell, is cut short,
Yet loose no time, now with the Muses sport;
That reading of thee, after times may tell,
In Travell, Prose, and Verse, thou didst excell.
Patrick Hannay.
To his dearely respected friend William Lithgow.
Shall Homer sing of stray'd Ulysses toyle?
From Greece to Memphis, in parch'd Ægypts soyle:
Flank'd with old Piramides, and melting Nyle,
Which was the furthest, he attayn'd the while:
A length of no such course, by ten to one,
Which thou thy selfe pedestrially hast gone:
Then may thy latter dayes out-strip old times,
That now hast seene, Earths circulary Climes:
And far beyond Ulysses, reach'd without him,
Both East and West, yea, North and South about him:
Which here exactly, thou hast sweetly sung
In ornat style, in our quick-flowing tongue;
Of Lawes, Religion, customes, manners, rites
Of Kings and people: life-sublimest sprits
In policies and government: Earths spaces
From soyle to soyle, in thy long wandring traces.
But what my soule applaudes! and must admire
Which ev'ry zealous Christian, should desire
To learne and know; is this, Spaines tortring Racke
And torments sharpe, which for the Gospells sake
Thou constantly didst beare: O joyfull payne!
Whilst Grace in those sad pangs, did thee sustaine,
With love and patience: O blest lively faith!
That for Christs cause, condemned was to death.
Live then (O living Martyr!) still renown'd
Mongst Gods elect; whose constancy hath crown'd
Reformd Religion: And let Heavens thy mind
Blesse with moe joyes, than thou didst torments find.
Walter Lyndesay.
To my deare Friend, Countreyman and Condisciple, William Lithgow.
Rest Noble Spirits in your Native Soyles,
Whose high bred thoughts on deare bought sights are bent
Renowned Lithgow by his brave attempt
Hath eas'd your bodies of a world of toyles.
Not like to some who wrongfully retayne
Gods rarest gifts, within themselves ingrost,
But what thou hast attain'd with care and cost.
Thou yeelds it gratis, to the world againe.
Upon the bankes of wonder-breeding Clide,
To these designes thy heart did first assent
One way, indeed, to give thy selfe content,
But more to satisfie a world beside.
Thy first attempt in excellence of worth,
Beyond the reach of my conceit's confinde,
But this thy second Pilgrimage of minde,
Where all thy paynes are to the world set forth;
In Subject, Frame, in Methode, Phrase, and Stile,
May match the most unmatched in this Ile:
But this renownes thee most, t'have still possest,
A constant Heart, within a wandring Brest.
Robert Allen.
To his kind friend and Countreyman W. Lithgow.
Thy well adventur'd Pilgrimage I prayse,
Although perform'd with perrill and with paine,
Which thou hast pen'd, in more than vulgar phrase
So curiously, so sweetly, smooth, and plaine,
Yet whilst I wondring call to minde againe.
That thou durst goe, like no man else that lives;
By Sea and land, alone, in cold and raine,
Through Bandits, Pirats, and Arabian Theeves,
I doe admire thee; yet a good event
Absolves a rash designe: So hardest things,
(When humane reason cannot give consent
T' attempt) attain'd; the greater glory brings.
Then Friend, though praise & paines rest both with thee,
The use redounds unto the world, and mee.
John Murray.
In commendation of the Author William Lithgow.
Come curious eyes, that pierce the highest scopes
Of sublime stiles: come satisfie your hopes
And best desires; in this prompe Pilgrimes paines
Whose deepe experience, all this worke sustaines
With solid substance, of a Subject deare
And pregnant Method; laid before you heare
In open bonds: Come take your hearts delight
In all the colours, of the worlds great sight.
Come thanke his travells; praise his painfull Pen
That sends this light, to live, mongst living men;
To teach your children, when he, and you are laid
As low as dust; how scepterd Crownes are swaid;
Most Kingdomes government: How ruld with Lawes
The South world is: their rites, Religious sawes:
Townes Topographick view, and Rivers courses,
Fonts, Forts, and Cittadales: scorch'd Asiaes sources:
All you may see, and much more, than I name
Seal'd in the Authors, never-dying fame.
Eleazar Robertson.
In Commendation of this History.
Thou art not hatch'd, forth from anothers braine,
Nor yet Collect'd, from others toiles thy sight,
The selfe-same Man, that bred Thee beares the paine
Of thy long birth: O weary wandring Wight!
It's carefull he, by Knowledge gives thee light,
And deepe experience to adorne thy name;
Both Pilgrime, Pen-man, so thy Maister right;
Who best can judge, in what concernes the same:
Then free-borne toile, flee forth with winged Fame
Thy Countries Virgin, thou the first penn'd Booke
That in his Soile, did ever Pilgrime frame
Of curious Travailes; whereon the Learned looke:
Then Knit thy Maiden brow, with Garlands greene,
The first of times, the last this Age hath Seene.
Alexander Boyde.
THE AUTHOR TO HIS BOOKE
Go painefull Booke, go plead thy owne Defence,
Walke with undaunted Courage, stop the Breath
Of carping tongues; who count it small offence
To bulge Thee up, within the jawes of Death:
Go lively charg'd, with stout Historian Faith,
And trample downe, base Crittickes in the Dust:
Make Trueth thy sword, to batter down their wrath
So shall thy Grave discourse, triumph as just:
Who yeeld Thee Credite, and deserving trust,
There prostrate fal, give them their hearts content:
Point forth the Wise, and Court them as thou must,
Give them insight, as I give Argument:
Instruct the Curious, inlarge the Servile Mind,
Illuminate misunderstandings blinde:
Sound Knowledge in their eares, deigne to approove me,
Since Friends and Foes, the World and I, must love thee.
THE RARE ADVENTURES
and
PAINEFULL PEREGRINATIONS
of
WILLIAM LITHGOW
THE FIRST PART
See Rome discover'd, Italy made playne,
The Roman Library, a golden gaine:
Hunns old Parthenope, with Venice met,
And strong Brundusium, in Ottranto set:
Times rich antiquities displayd abroad
On circling Cume, Avernus lying odde:
And Lorets Chappell, foure times beene transported
On Angells backes, from Nazareth detorted;
Where for discourse, on this false forged Lady,
To tend you with inveiglings, shall be ready:
Thus piece and piece, from soile to soile, I'le goe,
And now begin, the end will deeper growe.
It was a wise saying amongst the Auncients, that thrice happy
and blest was that Kingdome, when old men bore sway and ruled the
State, and young men travelled abroad: The first by long experience
prudently to execute judgement; and the latter by sight and knowledge
of forraine soyles and lawes, growing more judicious; might when
come to age and preferment, the more facily, and dexteriously
exhibit Justice at home. But what shall I say to these moderne and
dissolute times? when by the contrary meanes, travell is sleighted,
government abused, and insinuating Homelings, thrust in high offices,
incapeable of them, being pratling Parrots, and sounding Cymbals:
who convert sound Judgement and Justice, to their owne greedy
respects, and selfe mercinary ends; turning their chiefest felicity
to avaritious ambition and vaine glory, and their sweetest fortunes,
to their belly and their backe. O miserable and effeminate age! when
vertue by most men is despised, and neglected, and sensuall vice every
where exalted: Nay; ruffian Pandors, by hopefull youth and prodigall
gallants, are now clothed, Coatched, and richly rewarded; whilst best
merits and highest deserts, of rarest spirits, are neither looked
to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation, and examples sake,
of their valerous designes, let them thinke upon latter passages,
nor worthy to be thought upon, and they will finde this future caveat
to stand needfull, Hæc olim meminisse juvabit. So likewise now every
Capri-cullion from Cæsar, to the Pascorell, can crowd and chawe from
his warbling waspishnes, this stinging censure of absurd untrueth,
that Travellers and Poets may lye & lye by authority, which they
themselves performe at home without leave.
[Concerning sinistrous censures.] By which traditional concession,
I being absolute in the first, and borne to the Muses, as to the
World, a mungrell to both; may have a lawfull (unlawfull) liberty
assigned. Any marvell? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured,
when the very Gospell it selfe, by perfidious Atheists, Formalists,
Sophisters, Romish-rabines, Nullifidians, and Schismaticall Sectaries,
is quartered, mangled, and rejected; such be the Satanicall opinions
of this hell-borne age: Whose confused conceits, blasphemies,
incredulities, and imaginary devisions, have shamefully stained
the better part of this now best World. Nay, good and godly Kings,
so pricked at, and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant
villaines, as though their royall and just lives were the meere
inordinate paternes of all impiety, and lewdnesse. Sith therefore
the Sacred Scriptures, the gods of the earth, Ecclesiasticke columes;
yea the name and fame of the most righteous alive, be thus diversly
taxed, and vituperiously calumniated; can prevention in me, escape
the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury? No, I have had already
the assault, and newly prepared, patience proofe to receive more,
wrought by the piercinghammer, of nineteene winters, as many Summers
deare bought toyle. Let venome-thundring Crittickes, contumeliously
carpe, infernall firebrand Cerberans barke, and the hell prepared off
scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have aheart can smile, at
their backbiting malice, a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes,
and if present, the weight of understanding truth, to confound their
blind absurdities with reason. As for chamber complementers, whose
vast insides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become
threed-bare, having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments.
Such serving Cyphers, cypher childish censures,
And shallow scal-patch'd pates, have forebald tonsures.
Yet touch a C. flat in his face he'le start
As though a Dame, had grac'd him with a ------
Whose wringes, winks, whose curious smiles & words,
And scraping feete, lost blandement affoords:
Whence pride and lust, become two servile Mineons
To top his thoughts, with false and fond opinions:
Then happy they, who least frequent a Court,
Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport.
To such bellowing caves winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd-up
Commedies, clouted complements, stolne Phrases, and lip-licked labours,
of lamp-living spirits, to such hollow Tombes, I say a tush for
their kindnesse, and I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour,
or do homage to any of them: And this much for the misconstruous
lack-judgment of emulating cloudes, No Courtiers. And as concerning the
impostrat quagmires of this abortive age, wherein so many Simonaicall
Matchevilians, mercenary parasits, and arch-betraying Sicophants live,
vindicating themselves excessively, upon the advantage of time, I
insufficient I, to dive in such bottomlesse businesses, bequeath them
onely to their owne repining consciences, just tryalls, and ignominious
rewards. To satisfie the World in my behalfe, as touching my travells,
I sincerely protest, that neither ambition, too much curiosity, nor
any reputation I ever sought, from the bubling breath of breathlesse
man (whose [The reason why the Author begun his Travels.] defective
censure, inclineth, as instigation, or partiality, moveth his weake
and variable opinion) did expose me to such long peregrinations and
dangerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands
conjecture the cause, as many the manner; ten thousand thousands the
effect: The condition reserved, I partly forbeare to penetrate in that
undeserved Dalida wrong; and reconciled times pleading desistance,
moderate discretion inserteth silent patience.
The mansuet cup, the gods consuetly drunke,
In me involv'd, straight hony-gald it sunke:
That sweete Ambrosian Nectar, soundly wrapt
In my lock'd closet, suspitious Envy trapt;
And fierce-eyd Jealousie, wingd with wind
Pierc'd staring Argos, turned his hundred blind:
Mycene-fancy fraught, Lusts fond alarmes,
Cros'd eye-stard'd Sparta, rapt with Phrigian charmes:
And teare-rent Sophyre, Synon-like betrayd
What votall oathes, loves sterne fort, ne'er bewrayd
But high-bred drifts, the stormy fates, grim night
And gloomy Hellespont, rob'd Heroes right:
As Illions destiny, forc'd Numidias Queene
To gore a Scepter, a Diadem in teene:
So haplesse I belov'd, O passion strange!
May as amaz'd, admire, that time, this change.
I chang'd a Wolfe, once for a tusked Boare,
And changing Beast for Beast, triumph'd the more:
Strained to assume, in countercambiat breath,
A dying life, revert in living death:
Translate it so, my Metaphore is such,
That Time, nor I, nor Fortune can avouch:
Thus Passion whirling in a cloudy Vale,
I trancing flye, I fall, I hovering scale:
And whilst from Phleg'ran fields, the weirds me call,
I in Elisean plaines, am forc'd to fall;
Wherein some flowry faire enamild ground
I'le place my Tombe, mine Epitaph shall sound,
Of traine-shut sluces, of the Thespian spring,
Where chatring birds, Dodonean trees do sing:
And mild Hydaspes streames do gently flow,
There shall my Lesbian layes, sad Liricks shew.
And where the Borean Roses strow the Hall,
Where flot-glass'd Nymphs, the Circe-fled Greeks enstal;
There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's staind,
Whom foule affection preyd, and Lucre gaind;
Load with the filth of dallying Lust and Sin,
Where bloody murther, like a Theefe creept in;
Yet shall the spotles Heart, triumph in trueth,
When worth reapes fame and vertue conquers youth:
And crowne Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian Bayes,
With more then Lawrell praise, immortall rayes.
Than brass-brou'd Fiends, accurst by Minos doome,
Flee Fairy flight, to Pluto whence you come;
And tast Phlageton, Lethe, court Proserpine,
Sterne Radamanth attends, such stinking vermine;
There Hippolitus, slaine Pirothous stay
Neere t'Acheron, (all faithles lovers way)
To welcome Fiendly, fright Eremiall guests
With flame-flash'd firebrands, sulphur scorching tasts:
Chaynd fury-brangling, in remorseles paine,
Where Belzebub, and Lucifer remaine.
In this umbragious Cell, there lurks a hound
To beare Sarpedons Scepter; helpe to sound
Your Cleopatran clamours; and I thinke
The Ferrier Charon, makes such wretches drinke
Upon the Stigian bankes. Then gnashing Spirits
That howling waile, Hells inexpugnat merits:
Where's all your gentry? for I dare conclude,
That vertue's better borne, then noble blood:
This Epitomizd Epilogue, I send
To them who best can censure't, there's an end.
But by your leave, let me enter into consideration of the intractable
passage of my malecontents past, and these importunate designes
thereupon ensuing: And thus, have I, in the late dayes of my younger
yeeres beene grievously afflicted? Ah; yea; and with more then
desastrous injuries overclowded, O heavy under-prop'd wrongs. But
hath not the like accident befallen to man before? yea; but never
the like condition of murther: Nay, but then preponderate seriously
this consequent? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding
wolves? facily devoure, and shake a peeces, one silly stragling
lambe? yea, and most certaine, that unawares, the harmelesse innocent;
unexpecting evill, may suddenly bee surprised by the ambushment of
life-betraying foes. All this I acknowledge; but whereupon grew this
thy voluntary wandring, and unconstrayned exyle? I answere, that
being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not
onely inveigled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest
powers, then living in my countrey, [A Dialogue betweene the Author
and Himselfe.] to submit my selfe to arbitrement, satisfaction and
reconciliation. But afterward growing in yeeres, and understanding
better the nature or such unallowable redresses, and the hainousnesse
of the offence; I choosed rather (voti causa) to seclude my selfe from
my soyle, and exclude my relenting sorrowes, to be entertained with
strangers; then to have a quotidian occular inspection, in any obvious
object of disastrous misfortune: or perhaps any vindicable action,
might from an unsetled ranckour be conceived. O! a plaine demonstrate
cause, and good resolution; for true it is, that the flying from evill,
is a flying to grace, and a godly patience is a victorious freedome,
and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs; Vengeance is mine (saith
the Lord) and I will repay it. To this I answer; mine eyes have seene
the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night-gaping
foes, are trampled under foote, whiles I from strength to strength,
doe safely goe, through the firy triall of calamities. My consolation
arising from his eternall dictum, quos amo castigo, whom I love I
correct: And to say my part in my soules experience,
I never find affliction fall on me
Without desert, for God is true and just:
Nor shall it come, and without profit be,
For God is good, as mercifull I trust.
Then welcome all afflictions sent from God,
He whom he loves, he chastneth with his rod
And as one of the Auncients speaketh well, Adversa corporis,
animæ remedio sunt, ægritudo, carnem vulnerat, sed mentem curat: The
affliction of the body is wholesome phisicke for the soule, it woundeth
the flesh, but cureth the spirit. Certaine it is, that the Lord in
chastising his owne, doth often move the wicked reprobates of his
wrath, to be the instruments of his correcting hand. I could involume,
as large a discourse, upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the
late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour,
and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine; being in quality, though
not in quantitie alike. But constantly containing my selfe, within
the precinct of patience, referring such eminences to the Creator,
which in a part belongeth not to the creature; I may sigh to this
world, as sorrowfull Æneas to his Dido.
Infandum Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.
Thou wouldst, I should renew my former griefe
To speake of sorrow, helplesse of reliefe:
He melts in woes, who uttereth griefe with words,
Whilst deepest streames, the greatest calme affords.
But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose, the nature of man, by
an inward inclination, is alwaies inquisitive of forraine newes;
yea, and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange,
and unfrequented kingdomes, such is the instinct of his naturall
affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes together,
but travell hath done much more; for first to the Actor it giveth the
impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite
treasure, of unexprimable vertues: secondly, it unfoldeth to the world,
the government of States, the authority and disposition of Kings and
Princes; the secrets, manners, customes, and Religions of all Nations
and People. And lastly, bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man,
of these things, he would have seene, and could not attempt. Travell
hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients, then it is now
with us in the latter Age. Philosophers, Poets, Historiographers,
and learned Divines, how they have perigrinated to know the life of
States, and the fashions of farre Countries, would be an endles taske
for me briefly to relate. Many (I confesse) long to see the remotest
Regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dangers of sight,
the chargeable expences of a tributary journey, the hard indurance
of flint stones, for a soft feather bed, the extremities of thirst,
nor the parching heat of the Sun, hunger in the belly, nor the moist
distilling dew to be a humide coverlet to their tender skinne, with
innumerable other insuing miseries. But Ixion-like, mistaking Juno,
would by a meere imagination, runne out the sleeping course of an
endlesse peregrination. For my part, what I have reaped, is by a
deare-bought knowledge, as it were, a small contentment, in a never
contenting subject, a bitter pleasant tast, of a sweete-seasoned sowre,
and all in all, what I found was more then ordinary rejoycing, in an
extraordinary sorrow of delights.
But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, I come to the reall
adventure; After two voyages I made to the Orcadian, and Zetlandian
Isles; in the stripling age of mine adolescency, and there after
surveighing all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low-Countreys from
end to end; I visited Paris, where I remained ten moneths. Divers
contestions have I had, about the equality of London, and Paris, in
quantity and quality: But having a more serious subject in hand than
this [A comparison betweene London and Paris.] paralell, I conclude
thus, the infinite shipping, and commodious navigation of London
(besides their universall commerce)is more of value, then the better
halfe of Paris: compare you the quantity, for there is the quality of
the argument. Paris I confesse is populous, a masse of poore people,
for lacques and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a noctuall
den of theeves, and a confused multitude: Where contrariwise London
is adorned with many grave, prudent and provident Senators, civill,
well taught, and courteous people, and absolutely, the best governed
City on the whole face of the earth, as well by night, as by day,
and nothing inferiour in quantity to it.
From Paris in the yeere of God 1609. March 7. I set forward, being
brought three leagues on my way, with a number of my Countrey gallants,
young Aiton, young Hutonhall, and specially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield,
now Esquire of his Majesties body, with diverse other Gentlemen:
where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies,
and farewell bid on both sides, I bequeathed my proceedings to God,
my body to turmoyling paines, my hands to the burdon, and my feete to
the hard brusing way. And as unwilling to make relation of my passing
through France, the Savoyean, & Ligurian Alpes, sith it is manifested
unto many in this Iland, both by sight and report, I would shunne,
so farre as possible I can, all prolixity of knowne, and therefore
unnecessary discourse. Although I have a large reason, having cros'd
the Alpes at sixe severall parts, onely, in the owne place, I meane to
comment upon Italy in generall. Upon the 40. day after my departure
from Paris, I arrived at Rome, of the which I will memorize, some
rarest things, and so proceed. This City of Rome now extant, is not
that old Rome, which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with
the blood of his brother Rhemus, who disdainefully leaped over the
new wals; and was once the mistresse of the universe, for her triumphs
and antiquities, but is now only the carkas of the other, of which she
retaineth nothing but her ruines, and the cause of them, her sinnes.
[The Antiquity of Rome.] Rome which Romulus first founded, contayned
these two mountaines, Capitolino, and Palatino, with the valley
lying betweene both hills: having three ports; the first was called
Trigonio, because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount
Palatin: The second Pandonio, because it was alwayes open, and for the
commodity of the passage, it was called the free port: The third was
called Carmentale of Carmenta, the mother of Evander who dwelt there:
It was also named scelorata, or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines
put cruelly to death issuing thereat.
Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height;
the Gothes, a base and unknowne people, displaying their banner,
against this glorious and imperiall City, in the end razed, and
subverted their pallaces, equalizing the walles with the ground. After
the which detriment, the overthrow, the late subdued Romans, recovering
their ruinous habitation, were inforced to withdraw the situation
of the Towne, a little more downe-ward, in Campus Martius, close by
the bankes of Tibris; and transported the stones of these ransacked
buildings, to reedifie their new dwelling places;
Hic ubi nunc Roma est, olim fuit ardua silva,
Tantaque res paucis, pascua bobus erat.
Where Rome now stands, was sometimes desart woods
And soyle to feed some few-found bestiall goods.
And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe, the mother and
nurse of worthy Senators, the miracle of Nations, the Epitome of the
world, the Kingdome of Mars, and the seven headed soveraigne of many
Provinces. [Romes seven Hils.] The seven hills whereon she stood,
and now partly somewhere stands: for they are all contained within
the vast bounds of the old walls, which as yet environeth the towne,
are these, Palatino, Capitolina, Viminale, Aventina, Esquiline, Cælio,
and Quiraneno. Which certainely do demonstrate the whoore of Babylon,
sitting on the beast with seaven heads, and cannot be understood but
of Rome, being builded on these seven hils: having a correspondence to
seaven Kings who reigned there; and also acknowledging seven severall
Rulers, Kings, Consuls, Decemviri, Tribunes, Dictators, Emperours,
and now Popes. During the felicity of the Romaines, this Citty was
never taken, but by the Gauls, which being recovered they made a
Law that Priests (being otherwise exempted) should goe to warre, if
ever the Gauls came againe, with whom they fought not for dominion,
but for their owne preservation: But since it became pontificiall,
it hath bene made a prey to all barbarous Nations, and never was
besieged by any that tooke it not.
The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome, is not unlike to
Jordan and Tagus; yet not so big as either of them, being all three
of a troubled and muddy colour: But it is exceeding outragious, and
often Manasseth to drowne the whole Mansions, as greeving to grace the
wals of such a wicked and imperious place: Who having lost her former
preheminent glory, and domination over the world, would now alledge and
ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men, the heavens, the
hels, the silver-coyned Purgatory, the deposing and imposing of Kings:
The former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword,
the latter by presumption, Avarice, insinuation, and absurd lyes.
[Saint Catherines observation.] I remember of a pretty observation
of Saint Catherine of Siena, who being stricken in devotion, went to
venerate Rome, accompanied with a goodly traine; and having visited
all the Monuments, supposed Holy places, and Religious relickes there,
for the space of five dayes; At last she came to take a view of the
Popes Palace, where having spent a whole day, strictly remarkeing
the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants: She sawe nothing but
abhomination, prophanation, and irreligious living, and worser then
in Rome it selfe: Whereuppon suddenly the next day shee departed
for Siena, being an hundreth Miles distant; pittifully bewayling
her journey, and the miserable livers she sawe in Rome. Protesting
alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death, that the Winde
[Meaning of Sodomy.] never came from the East blowing Westward to
Siena, but she thought the filthinesse of the Popes Palace, and the
beastlinesse of Rome, ever stunke in her nose.
This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant
disgorgements, at that time when Pope Clement 8. was crowned Duke of
Ferrara, anno 1589. and that same night he returned to Rome, Tyber
waxed so proud of his arrivall, that impetuously inunding his bankes
to make him welcome, he over-whelmed the better halfe of the Towne: And
if it had not bene for the infinite charges of the Pope, and desperate
toile of the people, the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie,
had absolutely subverted and carried away the rest of the City. The
like inundation was never seene of Tyber, as after this Coronation,
portending, that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire, so this
second Sodome should be sommerssed by water. The beginning of this
River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills joyning with
the Alpes Appenine: whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles;
disburdening it selfe in the sea Mediterren at Ostia twelve miles from
Rome. The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up, to stoppe
the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions, least the City should
be surprised on a sudden. By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare, Rome
is shamefully defrauded of shipping and forraine trafficke; and if it
were not for the Clergy, which are the two parts of the inhabitants,
(besides the Jewes and Curtezans, which are the greatest implements
of the other third part) it would become the most miserable towne
in Italy.
And notwithstanding that for the space of 12. miles round about
Rome, there are neither Cornes, nor Wines, nor Village, Plantage,
or Cultivage, save onely playne and pastoragious fields; intermingled
at all quarters with auncient watch-Towers being an old policy of the
Romans, to prevent any sudden surprise of their enimies; insomuch that
at my first view of Rome, I imagined the people were all famished,
or in danger of famishing.
But by your leave, being once enterd the City, I found abundance of
all things necessary for life, at so easie and gentle a rate, that
never towne in Europe hitherto could shew me the like. The common wine
that is drunke in Rome, is Vin Romanisco, the better sort Albano,
Muscatello, Sheranino, but as for Lachrime Christi, the teares of
Christ, I drew so hard at that same weeping wine, till I found my purse
begun to weepe also; and if time had not prevented the sweetnes of
such teares, I had beene left for all the last miserable mourner. As
for the place [The Pilgrimes dinner at the Popes table.] where the
Pilgrimes find one dinner, called the Popes table, it is thus: there
is a certaine low roome at St. Peters Pallace, and without the gate,
where every day at our nine of the clocke, there meete 21. pilgrimes;
14. from the Trinity, one having a bullet for all, and seven from St
Peters Penitentialls: where being received, the seven Jesuit Pilgrims
get the upper place, and sit alone, yet all of them alike served,
each of them having foure dishes of meat, besides bread & abundance of
wine. The dinner done, their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper,
which they carry with them, and so departing, they, or like company
come no more there. They are dayly served with a very venerable Prelat,
and a few other serviceable Preists, but for the Popes presence with
them, there is no such matter. That liberty being spoyld by a drunken
Dutch-man about 60. yeeres agoe, who in presence of the Pope gave
up againe his good cheare and strong wines, with a freer good will
then perhaps they were allowed him, whereat the Pope grewe angry,
notwithstanding the drunken fellowe cryed through his belching throate,
Thankes Holy Father, Deere Holy Father, God blesse your Holinesse.
Many have wrote of the singularities of old Rome, and I will also
recite some decayed monuments thereof, which I have seene: The
speciall object of Antiquity I saw, being never a whit decayed to
this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium sanctorum,
builded in a rotundo, and open at the top with a large round,
like to the quire of the holy grave. And a pretty way from this,
are the remainants of that Auncient Amphitheatre beautified with
great Columnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height, and a mile in
compasse; the reason why it was first devised, the ghosts of the
slaughtered [Romes Antiquities.] Sabines may testifie. To be briefe,
I saw the decayed house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the
Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander,
and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill like unto mount Cavallo,
that was made of the Potters sheards at one time, which brought
the tributary gold to this imperiall seate: the seven Piramides,
some whereof during her former glory, were transported from Ægypt:
The high and small statues of Peter and Paul, the Castell St. Angelo,
which Adrian first founded, standing now in a moderate circumferent
height, with incircling battlements, and their doubtfull transported
Reliques from Jerusalem, with many other things I diligently remarked,
some whereof were frivolous, some ambiguous and some famous.
Neere to mount Palatin, and the decayed temple of Romulus, I saw
the Temple of Venus, converted now to the Church of Sancta Maria,
Liberatrice Dalla piene de Inferno, The deliverer from infernall
paynes, as Venus was the Consolatrix of amorous paynes.
Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy spectacle, which was
the Library of the auncient Romans, being licentiated to enter with
two Gentlemen, Sir William Carre, Mr. James Aughmuty my Countrey men,
where when I was come, I beheld a world of old Bookes, the first
whereof, was an infinite number of Greeke Bibles subscribed with the
hands of these holy Fathers, who (as they say) translated them out
of the Hebrew tongue.
I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the
soule, health, life, nature and qualities of men, with the Medicaments
of Galen, for the diseases and [Famous Authors.] infirmities of man:
The familiar Epistles of Cicero, the Æneidot of Virgil, the Saphicke
Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the workes of Ovid, Pliny, Plutarke,
Titus Livius, Horatius, Strabo, Seneca, Plato, Homer, Tirentius,
Cato, Hippocrates, Josepus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculus, Eusebius,
S. Austine, S. Ambrose, S. Cyprian, S. Gregory, and likewise the
workes of other excellent Phylosophers, Divines and Poets: all wrote
with their owne hands, and sealed with their names, and manuall
subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first auncient writing
which was upon leaves of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on
ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and unknowne Letters,
that was brought from Ægypt: for the Ægyptians first devised the use
thereof, and the sight of infinite Obligatory writings of Emperors,
Kings and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to be
Registred by the next beholder.
Still left untold, something there must be seene
For them, who trace our feete, with Argos eyne:
Yet let them stay, and take this verball note,
They who would better write, must larger quote.
Bidding adew to my company, and this Library, I longed to view
the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of S. Peters Church: The matter was
no sooner conceived, but I went to the doore, yet afraid to enter,
because I was not accustomed with the carriage, and ceremonies of such
a Sanctum Sanctorum: but at the last, abandoning all scrupulosities,
I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore,
I espied the portrayed image of S. Peter [The brasen Image of Saint
Peter.] erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The
fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they go straight
to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his senslesse body,
kisse his feete, and every one of his severall toes: insomuch that
those his comfortlesse feete are growne firy red, while his body,
save his breasts, remaineth brazen blew: and yet forsooth some of
their learned Rabines will not have this superstition, but an humble
commemoration of their adored Saints, or the like, for procuring
favour of intercession, whilst the erected Idoll (interum) receiveth
all their superfluous abhominations of diurnall worship. Next, they
lay their heads under the sole of his right foote, and arising, rub
their Beades on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse
masse of mettall, more then though it were a living creature.
O wonderfull and strange spectacle? that these onely titular
Christians, should become worse of knowledge then Ethnicke Pagans,
to worship and reverence the workemanship of mens hands. Woe and
shame be unto you all blind Hereticall Papists; Why should you make
to your selves Idols and Images of gold, silver, brasse, yron, stone,
earth and tree; And notwithstanding would excuse the matter with
a superstitious reason, alledging, you do it onely in remembrance,
where otherwise it is a damnable signe of wilfull obdurate ignorance:
May not the prohibition of the 2. Commandement of Gods Law, which
absolutely you abrogate, dividing the last Commandement in two;
confound the errour of this Idolatry, ingrafted in your hardned hearts.
What vertue can be in a lumpe of brasse? or what comfort in the
devices of handy-crafts-men? Alas, nothing but eternall sorrow &
condemnation. This was one of the lamentable errors I saw in the
Roman Sea, amongst many other thousands: When the foolish Listranes
or Licaonians would have sacrificed Buls to the honour of Paul and
Barnabas, they rent their cloaths, and ranne in among the people,
crying, and saying; O men, why doe you those things, we are even men
subject to the like passions that you be: How is it then, That the
Apostles being alive, would have no acknowledging by any homage of
man; yet when they are dead, the [Superstition of Papists.] Romanists
will worship their counterfeit similitude, in stone or tree. What
unworthy-fained traditions and superstitious Idolatry? What strange new
devising trickes they use, to plant idle monasteriall Loyterers? How
many manner of wayes these belly-minded slaves Epicure-like leade
their lives? And what a Sea of abhominable villany they swimme into,
practising even unnatural vices, I meane of their wrongfuly called
Religious Bishops, Priests, Friers, Curates, and all the hypocriticall
crew, of these pervers'd Jebusites, no heart can expresse; nor the
most eloquent tongue can sufficiently unfold. Whose luxurious lives
are vulgarly promulgat in this Hispanicall proverbe:
Unnas tienen de gatto, y el habito de beato,
El cruz en los Pechos, ye el diabolo en los hechos.
They have a Cats clawes, and a blest Saints weed,
The crosse on their breasts, the divels in their deed.
But for feare of Excommunication from that Anti-christian Curtezan. I
dare not persevere longer herein: Although I can; yea, and so truely
bewray their all-corrupted estate, that I need no information of any
Romane Novice Traveller. Of whose sight and experience, would God all
the Papists in Britaine had the like eie-witnessing approbation as I
have had, I am certainly perswaded, with tears & sighes, they would
heavily bemone the terrible fal of that Babylonian whoore, which in
a prophane estimation) is their holy mother Church. For I sincerely
sweare to thee, O faithfull Christian (as the Italian usually doth
in his humours) by the golden tripled Crowne of my ghostly Father,
Paulo Papa quinto, whatsoever sacriledge, incest, or villany a Papist
committeth; let him come here, and fill the bribing hands of the
Simonaicall Minions, of the thrice crowned Priest, (for Roma non
captat ovem sine lana.)
[Pardons for pennies.] And he shall have Indulgences, Dispensations,
adjoyned Penances, or absolved Offences, for hundreds, thousands,
lesse, or more yeeres. The period of Time, after eight and twenty
dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly escaped from the hunting of
these blood-sucking Inquisitors, of which the most part were mine owne
Country-men, the chiefest of whom was Robert Mophet a Jesuit borne in
St. Andrewes, David Chambers, and of our Colledge there, one Gordon,
and one Cuningham, borne in the Cannon-gate of Edenborough: And to
speake trueth, if it had not beene for Robert Meggat, borne neere
to Newbattle, then resident in Burgo di Roma with the old [My escape
from Rome.] Earle of Tirone, who hid me secretly for three dayes in
the top of his Lords Pallace, when all the streets and ports of Rome
were layd for me, who conveighing me away at the fourth mid-night,
and leapt the walles of Rome with me, I had doubtlesse dyed as hot
a death as a Lady Prioresse of Naples did afterward in my second
Travells: And for better record Patricke Baxstter, now dwelling in
Dundy, and then followed the Earle of Tyron can justifie the same,
my custody and mine escape being both within his knowledge. Yet I
may justly affirme it in these parts a man can finde no worser enimie
then his nationall supposed friend, Religion being the cause of it,
and at home none more false nor deceitfull then a bosome friend.
Mens mindes, their praises, best loves, and kind conceits, They
hurling come and goe, like fish at baits.
And the Italian saith in his Proverbe; God keepe me from the hurt of
my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine enemies. From
thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which,
I revolve in this verse;
Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comitesque Ducesque
Most noble Naples, breeds but Dukes and Earles,
And gallant Knights, with Ladies load with Pearles.
Among many other things neare to this City, (which in the conclusion of
this Historicall discourse be more particularly expressed) were Lacus
Avernus, Sibillaes Cave, Puteoli, the Sulphurean mountaine Capua and
Cuma, where banished Æneas from Troy and Carthage arrived. I saw the
Monument of Virgills buriall standing in the fore face of his owne
Grotto, that is cut through the mountaine of Cataia, being passable
for Coatches, and a halfe mile long; and affixed these lines thereupon;
In Mantua from Mothers wombe,
I first conceived breath;
Parthenope reserves the Tombe,
My Sepulcher of Death.
Italy was called so of Italus, a King in Sicily, which first
taught the people agriculture: The more impropriated names were
Hesperia, because it is situate under the evening starre Hesperus:
Latium, because Saturne driven from Creet by his sonne Jupiter, hic
latebat abditus; and Ænotria in regard of the abundance of wines it
produceth. This Countrey was first sayd to be inhabited by Janus,
Anno Mundi 1925. From whom sprung the [The first plantation of
Italy.] tribes of the Samnites, Sabines, Laurentani, and Tarentines:
The second Plantation was by Evander, and certaine other Arcadians,
who being banished from their native dwellings, seated themselves here:
Thirdly, by the Trojanes, under conduct of Æneas, who forsaking the
delicious lives of the effeminate Affricans arrived here, and were
kindly entertained by King Latinus, whose daughter Lavinia, Æneas
married: So thus from the Trojans the Italians bragge of their discent;
and so likewise boast divers other nations to have discended from that
Dardan stocke, as glorying in such a famous pedegree. The length of
Italy is nine hundreth Italian miles, though some allot a thousand,
it is false, for I have trod foure severall times from end to end
of it on the soles of my feete, even from Vallese, the first Towne
in Piemont, discending mount Synais from La Croix Southward, which
secludeth Savoy; and to Capo Bianco in Calabria, hemb'd in with the
gulfe Tarento on the one side, and the Faro of Messina on the other,
it being the furthest promontore of Italy.
So in a false description, some blind Geographers, through base
ignorance, make England longer then Scotland in their Mappes, when
Scotland, by the best judgements, and mine owne better experience,
is a hundred and twenty miles longer then England: It is a deocular
errour, which I could wish to be reformed, as in the conclusion of
this worke I shall more credibly make cleare.
The breadth of Italy at the roote and beginning thereof, bending
along the Alpes from the Adriaticke coast, to the riviera di Genoa,
or Ligurian shore, is but 240. Italian miles, growing narrower,
and narrower, till it shut out it selfe in two hornes, Calabria,
and Terra di Ottranto. The breadth of which, or either, extendeth
not above foureteene English miles from sea to sea, the gulfe Tarento
(which is unnavigable in respect of infinite craggy shelfes) deviding
the two homes. On the North side of Terra di Ottranto, lieth Apulia,
bordering with Mare superum, a very fruitfull soile for cornes;
& West-ward thence boundeth, terra di lavoro, or proprium regnum
Napolitanum. These foure territories make up the intire [The Kingdome
of Naples.] Kingdome of Naples: The chiefe Cities of which, are Naples,
Capua and Salerno, in terra di Lavoro: In Calabria, are Cousenza, the
chiefe seate of the President, or Subvicegerent, Rhegio, Allauria,
and Montecilione: In terra di Ottranto, are Otranto the which towne
being taken by Mahomet the great, Anno 1481. involved all Italy in
such a feare, that for a whole yeare, and till the expulsion of the
Turks, Rome was quite forsaken, the next are Lucia, and Brundusium
beautified with a famous haven.
And in Apulia, are Manfredo, Arpino where Tully was borne, Venusio,
whence Horace had his birth, and Canno famous for the victory of
Hanniball, against the Romans. The Church-land beginnes beyond
Rome eighty miles at Terracina, being just opposit to Gayetta, the
West-most confine by the Marine of the Neapolitan Kingdome, neare to
Mount Circello, and the utmost Marine limit Eastward of Campagna di
Roma, or the Churches patrimony, imbracing both seas, till it runne
to Ponto Centino in Tuscana: which divideth the precincts of Re di
Coffine, & Aquacupadente, the last frontiers of the great Duke and
Popes lands. All which bounds to Terracina, and in the way of Venice
from Rome to Spaleto is denominated Campagna di Roma, or Latium;
and thence it reacheth along Northwest, by the Venetian gulfe,
to the uttermost bounds of the Dutchy of Ferara, being thirty miles
from Venice: Extending in length to three hundred & fifty miles, whose
breadth is narrow, and where it joyneth with both seas, it is but sixty
miles. The Church-land is [The foure Papall Territories.] divided in
foure territories, Campagna di Roma, or old Latium; Rome, Viterbo,
Narni, Tarni, Viletri, Montefiascone, and Civitavecchia, being
the chiefe Cities: Next, the Countrey of Ombria, or Ombrosa, lying
betweene Rome and Loretta, the chiefe Cities are Spaleto, from whence
it is reckoned a Dutchy, Perugia, a Sacerdotall University, Fulino,
and Asisi, where great St. Frances with his invisible Stigmata was
borne. At the which Asisi, I saw the place (as they say) where the
Angell appeard to his mother, telling her, that she should conceave
and beare a sonne, should be the Champion of Jesus, and hard by
they shew me the Crub or Stall where he was borne, with many other
foolish lyes both sinfull and abhominable: every way representing
his imaginary life, like to the heavenly tract and resemblance of our
blessed Saviour. The third is Marca di Ancona by the sea side, Ancona
being principall, the other Cities are Asculi, Marcerata, Tolentino,
Riginati, Aguby, and Parasiticall Loretta. The fourth is Romania,
lying along toward Ferrara, betweene the sea, and the hills Appenine.
This Ecclesiasticke dowry of Romania, is disjoyned from Marca
di Ancona, by the Duke of Urbins lands, which division by the
sea side is thirty miles in length, containing Pesaro, Fanno, and
Sinigalia all sea port Townes, the other of this Dutchy are Urbino,
and Casteldurante. The chiefe Towne in Romania, is Ravenna, which
for antiquity will not bow her top to none in Italy: Here the Popes
Legate remaineth, the other be Rimini, Fereola, Bullogna and Ferrara,
and this much for the Popes foure Ecclesiasticke territories.
Tuscana or Ætruria lying South from the middle of this Church-land
is 100. miles in length, and as much [The Duke of Florence his
Patrimony.] in breadth, I meane of that belonging to the great Duke:
Which hereditary boundes was but lately enlarged by Ferdinando, Father
to late Cosmus, and brother to Mary of Medicis, the French Queene
Mother now living: Who annexed thereunto the Reipublicks of Pisa
and Siena: The other sequestrate Tuscan jurisdiction, is the little
comonwealth of Luca: The chiefe Citty is Florence, whose streetes are
divided by the River Arno; the other of this principality, are Pisa,
Siena, Pistoia, Empoli, Ligorne, and Arretzo.
From Tuscany to the West, and North-west, lieth Lumbardy, intituled
the garden of the World, which is now divided (besides the Venetian
territory, of which I will speake in the owne place) in foure
principalities, Milaine, Mantua, Parma and Modena: The other Cities be
Cremona, Pavia, Lodi, Pleasance, Rhegio Brisiles, Palestra, Navarro
and Allessandria di Paglia. This Province is mainely watered through
the middle with stately Po, in which Phaeton was drenched, when he
came tumbling downe from Heaven. The Rivers Ladishe, Montanello, Delia
Guarda, and other forcible streames supporting the shoulders of it.
[Piemont and Genuaes Jurisdictions.] West from Lumbardy lieth Piemont,
betweene it and Savoy: The City whereof, and wherein the Savoyan Duke
hath his Residence is Torino, situate on Po. The other, Aste Verseilles
and Cowie. South from Piemont and Lumbardy, lieth the Riviera of Genoa,
along the Mediterrean sea: the territory of which is narrow, but
above one hundreth miles in length: All which is exceeding rocky and
mountainous, yet producing good store of Orenges, Lemmons, Figges and
Ches-nuts, whereon the Mountaineri onely live, being either rosted,
or baked in bread: The chiefe Cities of this Genewesen Liguria,
are Genoa, [Italy lyeth as the right arme, reaching forth from the
maine body of Europe.] and Savona. Italy lying in forme of a legge,
is on both sides environed with the Sea, save onely the North-west
part, and roote thereof, which is devided from France and Germany,
by the Ligurian, Savoyean, Grisonean, Zingalian, and Tirolian alpes,
which bend North-east, and South-west, inclosing it from the body
of Europe, from sea to sea. Italy of all other Regions under the
Sunne, hath beene most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune, yet
not a little glorying in these famous Captaines, Fabius Maximus the
buckler, and Camillus the sword of Rome, Scipio, Pompey, and Cæsar;
for venerable Poets Virgil, Ovid, and renowned Horace, famous also
for the Orator Cicero, and the Historians Tacitus, and Livius: The
soyle is generally abundant in all things necessary for humane life,
and the people for the most part are both grave and ingenious, but
wondrous deceitfull in their actions, so unappeasable in anger, that
they cowardly murther their enemies rather then seeke an honourable
revenge, and so inclind to unnaturall vices, that for bestiality they
surpasse the Infidells: the women of the better sort are slavishly
infringed from honest and lawfull liberty: They of the middle ranke
somewhat modest in carriage, witty in speech, and bountifull in
affection: They of the vulgar kind are both ignorant, sluttish and
greedy, and lastly the worser dregs, their impudent Curtezans, the most
lascivious harlots in the world. This much in generall for the briefe
description of this Region, and so I revert to mine itinerary relation.
In the meane while, having alwayes a regard of my hasty dispatching
from Christendome, I returned through Terra di Lavoro, by the
sea side, Campagna di Roma, aunciently Latium, and Ombria, now the
Dutchy of Spaleto, even to Loretta, standing in the Marca of Ancona,
addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leave,
let me lay downe before your eyes some notable illusions of Modonna
di Loretta, which I found in my way-faring journey, to amplifie my
former discourse, concerning the errours of the Roman Church, and as
yet was never Englished in our language.
Before I came neare to Loretta by tenne miles, I overtooke a Caroch,
wherein were two Gentlemen of Rome, and their two Concubines; who
when they espied me, saluted me kindly, enquiring of what Nation
I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to travell
alone? After I had to these demands given satisfaction, they
intreated me to come up in the Caroch, but I thankfully refused,
and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable,
and my body unwearied. At last they perceiving my absolute refusall,
presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselves in my
company: and incontinently, the two young unmarried Dames came forth
also, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars mount
againe; saying, they were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loretta (for
devotion sake) in pilgrimage, and for the pennance enjoyned to them
by their Father Confessour. Truely so farre as I could judge, their
pennance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of
their devotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper,
each youth led captive his dearest Darling to an unsanctified bed,
and left me to my accustomed repose.
When the morning Starre appeared, we imbraced the way marching
towards Loretta, and these vermillion Nymphs, to let me understand
they travelled with a chearefull stomacke, would oft runne races,
skipping like wanton Lambes on grassie Mountaines, and quenching
their follies in a Sea of unquenchable fantasies. Approaching neare
the gate of the Village, they pulled off their shooes and stockings,
walking bare-footed through the streets, to this tenne thousand times
polluted Chappell, mumbling Paternosters, and Ave Mariaes on their
beads. When they entred the Church, wherein the Chappell [Ignorant
devotion.] standeth, I stood at the entry beholding many hundreds
of bare-footed blinded bodies, creeping on their knees and hands:
Thinking themselves not worthy to goe on foote to this idely supposed
Nazaretan House, like to this saying;
Lauretum nudis pedibus, plebs crebra frequentat,
Quam movet interius religionis amor.
To Lorett people haunt with naked feete,
Whome Religion moves with loves fervent sprit.
Unto this falsely patronized Chappell, they offer yearely many rich
gifts, amounting to an unspeakable value, as Chaines, & Rings of Gold
and Silver, Rubies, Diamonds, silken Tapestries, Goblets, imbroudries
and such like. [Romes avarice.] The Jesuiticall and Poenitentiall
Fathers receive all, but who so enjoy all, let Camera reverenda
Romana, graunt certification to this Loretan avariciousnesse, who
fill their coffers twice in the yeare therewith. My foure Pilgrimes
having performed their ceremoniall customes, came backe laughing,
and asked why I did not enter? But I as unwilling to shew them any
further reason, demaunded what the matter was? O (said the Italians)
Jurando per il Cieloe Iddio Sacratissimo; This is the House wherein
the Virgin Marie dwelt in Galile: and to the confirmation of these
words shewed me a Booke, out of which I extracted these Annotations.
This Chappell they hold it to be the house, in which Mary was
annunced by Gabriel, and wherein she conceived [Damnable illusions of
Loretta.] Jesus, by operation of the holy Ghost, & in the meane time,
that devotion waxed scant amongst the Christians of the Primitive
Church in the Holy Land: strangers tirannizing over the territories of
Canaan, as Heraclius, Costroes King of Persia, Sarazens, and Harancone
King of Ægypt; it came to passe in the yeare of our Lord, 1291. and
in the time of Pope Nicholas the fourth, that it being shaken off the
foundation, was transported miraculously by Angels in the night, from
Nazareth in Gallilee, to Torsalto in Slavonia: the distance being by
sea and land 17. hundred Italian miles, O! a long lift for so scurvie a
Cell. And in the morning, Shepheards comming to the place of pastorage,
found this house, wherewith being astonished, they returned in hast,
and told Saint George Alessandro, the Prior of Torsalto, who in that
meane while was lying sick. He being stricken in admiration with these
newes, caused himselfe to be borne thither, and laid before the Altar,
and falling in a marvellous trance, [A Simonaicall vision.] the Virgin
Mary by a heavenly Vision appeared to him, saying after this manner.
[A Papisticall Dreamd of Oration.] Behold, thou hast often pierced
the heavens, with invocations for thy reliefe, and now I am come,
not onely to restore thee to thy health, but also to certifie thee,
that thou doubt nothing of this House; for it is holy in respect of
mee, the chast immaculate Virgin, ordained before all eternity, to be
the Mother of the most High. It was in this Chamber my Mother Anna
conceived me, nourished me, and brought me up, in singing Psalmes,
Hymnes, and Praises to the glory of God; and also I kept in this
roome the blessed Infant Jesus very God, and very Man, without any
grievance or paine brought him up with all dilgent observation:
And when cruell Herod sought the Babes life, by the advertisement
of the Angell, I, and my husband Joseph, who never knew my body,
fled with him downe to Ægypt. And after his passion, death, and
ascension to Heaven, to make a reconciliation of humane nature,
with the Court Coelestiall: I stayed in this house with John,
and the other Disciples: Who considering after my death, what high
mysteries had beene done into it, consecrated and converted the same
to a Temple, for a commemoration of Christs sufferings, the chiefe of
Martyrs. Also that resplending Image thou seest, was made by Saint
Luke (my familiar) for eternizing the memory of my portraiture,
as I was alive, by the commandement of him, who doth all things,
and shall reserve this sacred Image to the worlds end: That Crosse
of Ceder, which standeth at the side of the little Westerne window,
was made by the Apostles: These Cinders in the Chimney touch not,
because they are the fragments of the last fire I made on earth:
And that Shelfe whereon my linnen clothes, and prayer Bookes lay,
Let no person come neere it: For all these places are sanctified
and holy. Wherefore my Sonne, I tell thee, awake, and goe recite the
same which I have told thee unto others; and to confirme thy beleefe
therein, the Queene of Heaven giveth thee freely thy health.
[The shamefull opinions of the Papists concerning Loretta.] Frier
Alexander being ravished (say they) with the Vision, went and reported
it to Nicholas Frangipano, Lord of that Countrey. And incontinently
he sent this Prior and other foure Friers to Nazareth, whereby he
might know the trueth thereof, but in that journey they dyed. The
Virgin Mary perceiving their incredulity, caused Angels the second
time to transport the house over the gulfe of Venice, to a great
wood neere by the sea side, in the territory of Riginati in Italy,
being 300. miles distant. Which, when the country-men had found,
and remarking the splendor of the illuminating Image, dispersed
these newes abroad. And the Citizens of Riginati, having seene
what great miracles was daily done, by the vertue of this Chappell,
imposed then to it this name, Our Lady of Miracles. A little while
after the people resorting to it with rich gifts, there haunted in
the wood many theeves and cut-throates, who robd and murthered the
Pilgrims. Which innocent spilt bloud, pricking their pitifull Lady
to the heart, she made the Angels transport it the third time, and
set it on the top of a little Mountaine, belonging to two brethren
in heritage, being forty foure miles distant from the former
place. But they upon a day quarrelling, and discording about the
utility of the [Foure times transported.] Offerings to this House,
the Angels did remoove it the fourth time, and placed it in a high
broad way, where it standeth unremooved to this day, which place is
now called the Village of Loretta; and from the last Station nine
miles distant. [A confirmation by the Popes.] This was confirmed by
the Papall authority to be of an undoubted trueth, after a hundreth
and fifty three yeares deliberation. Loe, as briefly as I could, have
I layd open to thy judicious eyes, the transportations, Originall,
and Papisticall Opinions of Loretta; protesting I have added nothing
to the Authours description, but onely collected these speciall
Warrants; omitting other infinite foolish toyes, conceived for their
blind-folded credulity.
This Chappell, or rather dwelling house, as they would have it,
stood alwayes alone, till of late, that Pope Clement 8. caused build
a glorious Church over it: And here by accident I encountred with a
very courteous and discreet Gentleman, James Arthur, whose company
was to me most acceptable: Our acquaintance being first made at
the beginning of the same voiage upon the mountaines of Ferrara in
Paese du Burbon, and bound to visite Venice, in his returning home
for Scotland, as well as he had done Rome and other Cities of Italy.
Now I remember here of a pretty jest, for he and I going in to see the
inravled image with sparrets of iron, and musing on the blacknesse of
her face, and the richnesse of her gowne, all set with precious Stones
and Diamonds; and because she is sightlesse, foure lampes of oyle they
keepe alwayes burning before her face, that the people may see her,
because she cannot see them. There was, I say, a young lusty woman hard
by my elbow, busie at [A fleshly false-sprung miracle.] her Beades, who
with the heate of the throng, and for lacke of ayre, fell straight in
a sound: the women about her gave a shoute, and cryd that our blessed
Lady had appeared to her; whereupon she was carried forth and layd
upon the steppes, that discend from the Chappell to the Church-floore,
five hundreth more come to visite her with salutations of Saint,
Saint, O ever blessed Saint; Now it was Friday in the fore-noone,
and the woman having travelled all night, and to save charges of fish,
had eaten a cold bit of her owne meat privately in the Taverne, with
halfe a Buckale of red Wine: The people more admiring this imaginary
heavenly trance, than the reliefe of the woman; at last sayd I,
brother Arthur, I will goe open yonder womans breast, and I did so:
and holding up her head before all the people, there sprung a flood
of vin garbo downe the Alabaster stayres, intermingled with lumpes
of ill-chewd flesh: Whereat the people being amazed, from a Saint
swore she was a Divell: And if my friend and I, had not made hast
to carry the sicke woman from the Church to a Taverne, doubtlesse,
they had stoned her to death; and here was one of their miracles.
Another time, comming backe from my second Travels in Affricke, it
was my lucke to stumble in here againe, where I saw an old Capuschin
Frier conjuring the Divell out of a possessed woman, who had stayed
there, and two men keeping her above eighteene moneths, being twise
a day brought before the Chappell. The Frier stood up before her,
the two men holding both her armes; [A Capuschin Frier conjuring the
Divell.] and sayd, laying his formost finger on her brow; In nomine
Patris, &c. Io vi cargo a dirmi, per quale cagione, havete posseduto
l'anima di questæ poveretta; & vati ne via io ti adjuro, alia quei
luogi, dionde tu sei venuto: I charge thee to shew me for what cause
thou hast possessed the soule of this poore wretch, and I adjure thee
to goe backe unto these places from whence thou camest. Meane while
the woman stood dumbe and silent for the space of a quarter of an
howre, not being usuall before: the people gave a shoute, and cry'd,
the Divell had left her, whereat he that held her right arme did let
it fall downe by her side: But by your leave, in the twinckling of
an eye, the Divell in the woman gave the Frier such a rattle in the
face, that he was stroke downe upon his backe among the people: And
if it had not bene that she was borne downe with strength of hands,
she had torne the silly old conjurer in peeces: crying, O false and
dissembling knave, pretendest thou to have power to cast out evill
Spirits, when thou thy selfe is in a worser case than I, and all thy
profession too; Hell, hell, is your reward.
This is another of our Lady of Lorettaes Miracles, though many moe I
could recite: As for any more vertue of this Cymberian image, I have
knowne sicke folkes loaden with all kinde of diseases, criples, lame,
maimed, deafe, dumbe, and numbers possessed with evill spirits lie
here before this Lady, till I returned againe from Asia & Affrick,
that same way: imploring, fasting and penitentially weeping for
health; But alas poore soules, they lost their labour. When they had
both spent all their meanes, and perhaps the poorest of them three
yeares attendance, and forced to my knowledge to returne againe to
their severall stations with sorrowfull and comfortlesse hearts.
O strange and wonderfull frailty of men! what damnable imperfections
domineere over their brain-sicke knowledge: Sathan, thou Prince of
darkenesse, hast so over-sylled the dimmed eies of their wretched
soules, that notwithstanding of Gods eternall word, ordained to call
them through the spotlesse bloud of Christ Jesus; to be the heires
and adopted sonnes of Salvation: yet thou all abhominable enemie of
mankind, overthrowest both their spirituall and naturall understanding
in a bottomelesse Ocean of darke ignorance; promising to thy obdurate
souldiers, to build Castles in the Ayre; and contrarywise is busie,
digging downe dungeons, to welcome thy hellish eternized guests,
with horrible torments, and never-ceasing flames of everlasting
fire. What wilfull-hearted man can be so apt to believe, that our
blessed Lady, had such estimation of morter and stones, as to have
(although she had, had power) caused Angells to transport a rotten
house so often? No, I say, beleeve it who so will; questionlesse,
the Judgements of God in the trueth of his all-seeing Justice, shall
reward their too credulous mindes accordingly; Then shall they know
their foolish and superstitious errours.
But now to leave them with their Idolatry to stones, mettall, and
Images, I come to their blasphemies against the sacred Deity: Looke to
the workes of Bernardini de Busti, Bonaventure, and Fereolus Lucrius,
how shamefully they derogate the glory from God, and attribute all
grace, mercy and omnipotency, to the Virgin Mary. So Ludolphus and
Chrysostome affirme, that Velocior est non unquam salus invocato
nomine Mariæ, quam invocato nomine Domini, vinci filii ejus: Men may
oftentimes be sooner saved by calling on the Virgin Mary, than on
Christ. Omnia quæ Dei sunt, Mariæ sunt, quia mater & sponsa Dei illa
est, all things which are Gods, are the Virgin Maries, because she
is both the Spouse, and the mother of God, saith a Rabbin of theirs:
and as many creatures honour the Virgin Mary, as honour the Trinity,
saith another: So, Imperio Virginis, omnia famulantur & Deus, all
creatures & God himselfe, are subject to the Virgin Maries command. And
in their Bonaventure Ladies Psalter, Monstrate esse matrem, & coge
illum peccatoribus misereri, Shew thy selfe a Mother, and compell him
(viz. Christ) to have mercy upon sinners. Infinit citations could
I produce, of such like intollerable [The Virgin Mary divided in a
thousand Ladies.] attributs, besides the dividing of her in a 1000
stiles, viz. The Lady of the wines, Lady of the oyles, Lady of the
cornes, Lady of the woods, Lady of the mountains, Lady of the meeds,
Lady of the sheepe and goats, Lady of the springs, Lady of the fire,
Lady of the shepheards; from earthquakes, thunder and fire-flashes,
Lady of the Angels which is at Asisi in Ombria, Lady of miracles in
divers places, Florence, &c. Lady of life in Bullogna newly found,
Lady of all noble Ladies, and Nunnes, Lady of the galley-slaves,
Lady of shipwracking seas, Lady of rivers and waters, Lady of young
children, and orphanes, Lady of all consolation, Lady of pure Virgins,
Lady of distressed widdows, Lady of the sicke, and women with child,
&c. Besides the powerfull Lady of Mountserrata in Catalogna, the
aforesayd miraculous Lady of Loretta, and the clementious Ile-ruling
Lady of Trapundy in Sicilia, &c. Thus they make it manifest, that Shee,
that is Ladye of the one, is not Ladye of the other; each of them
having divers gifts, divers graces, divers powers, as they alledge,
divers Chappells, divers offerings, and divers pilgrimages, according
to the severall seasons, eminent or past-perills, peculiar invocations,
and the particular neede of each family, man woman and living creature.
Whereby it plainely appeareth, by their dividuall acknowledgements,
she is neither superior in power, universall in power, nor equall in
power to God: For if she were, one Chappell, one name, one place, one
pilgrimage, one offering would suffice for all. They chatter over on
their beads ten Ave Maries to our Lady, and but one Pater noster to
Christ: They make their orations thrice a day in the streets to the
Virgin, and none to God: they say God divided the Kingdome with the
Virgin, reserving to himselfe Justice, graunted to his mother mercy,
wherefore if any man be aggrieved with Gods Justice, he may appeale
to the court of her mercy.
But to conclude their blasphemies, & horrible lies, blessed is the
blessed Virgin Mary (the Mother of Christ according to the flesh)
above all women for ever and ever.
Leaving both this and Loretta, and returning to my [Ancona.] purpose,
James Arthur and I imbarked at Ancona, (15. miles from thence) in a
Frigato; This City of Ancona, in the time of Trajanus the Emperour,
flourished mightily in fame, and reputation, and yet a gallant place
to this day;
Contemnunt omnes Ancona moenia Turcas.
This sea-strong Towne, set on a Promontore,
Defieth the Turkes with its defensive shoare:
It glories not a little in giving name to the whole province
lying betweene Ombria and Romania, and is situate on a hill that
shooteth into the sea like a promontore, having a faire haven built by
Trajanus. It hath but one gate, whence arose the proverbe, Un porto nel
Ancona, un Petro nel Roma, e un Torre nel Cremona, One gate in Ancona,
one Peter in Rome, and one Steeple in Cremona being exceeding high.
Along this Adriaticke Coast, I saw no remarkeable thing, save the two
Cities Rimini and Ravenna: which were famous in the dayes of Octavius
Cæsar, but now somewhat impoverished, in regard of divers incursions
sustained, and shoaring along with them, the Duke of Urbines three
sea-port Townes Sinigalia, Fanno and Pesaro, we sayled by the mouth
of Rubicon, called now Pissatello (which Julius Cæsar passed over,
against the ordinance of the Senate, and afterwards seazed upon Rome,
putting Pompey to flight) I saw the place, where the bloudy battell
was fought betweene the French and Spaniards, Anno Domini 1512. but
the victory fell to the Gaules, with the losse of nineteene thousand
men on every side, and they have erected singular Monuments there,
in a perpetuall memory thereof. After three dayes sayling (having
passed by Malamucko, which is the Haven of the great Venetian shippes)
we arrived at St. Marks place in Venice.
Mine associate and I, were no sooner landed, and perceiving a great
throng of people, and in the midst of them a great smoake; but
we begun to demaund a Venetian what the matter was? who replied,
there was [A Gray Frier burned for villanous Lechering.] a gray
Frier burning quicke at S. Markes pillar, of the reformed order of
S. Francis, for begetting fifteene young Noble Nunnes with child, and
all within one yeare; he being also their Father confessor. Whereat,
I sprung forward through the throng, and my friend followed me,
and came just to the pillar as the halfe of his body and right arme
fell flatlings in the fire; The Frier was forty sixe yeares old,
and had bene Confessor of that Nunnery of Sancta Lucia five yeares:
Most of these young Nunnes were Senators daughters; and two of them
were onely come in to learne vertue, and yet fell in the midst of vice.
These fifteene with child, were all re-cald home to their fathers
Pallaces; the Lady Prioresse, and the rest of her voluptuous crew,
were banished for ever from the precincts of Venice. The Monastery
was razed to the ground, their rents were allowed to be bestowed upon
poore families, and distressed age, and their Church to be converted
to an Hospitall. Most part of all which M. Arthur and I saw, before
ever we either eate, drunke, or tooke our lodging in Venice: And
I cannot forget, how after all this, we being inhungred, and also
over-joyed tumbled in by chance, Alla capello Ruosso, the greatest
ordinary in all Venice, neare to which the Friars bones were yet a
burning: And calling for a Chamber, we were nobly & richly served:
After dinner they layd up our budgets and our burdons, and abroad
went we to see the Citie: Night come, we supd, and supd alone:
[The chiefe Venetian Ordinery.] The next morne, I begun to remarke
the grandeur of the Inne, and saw it was time that we were gone:
I demanded our dependant, what was to pay? he answered, Un scudo
all huomo par ciascun ripasto, A Crowne the dyet for each of us,
being ten Julets or five shillings starling: Mr. Arthur lookd upon
me, and I laughd upon him: In a word our dinner and supper cost us
40. Juletts twenty shillings English; being foure Crownes, whereat
my companion being discontented, bad the divell be in the Friars
ballocks, for we had payd soundly for his Leachery: many like deaths,
for like causes, and worser, have I seene in all my three voyages,
if time could permit me to particularize them; But from this thou
mayst play the learned Geometrician till thou findest more.
Cingitur urbs Venetum pelago, ditissima nummis.
This Towne most rich, to dare the Maine is shut,
In Neptunes bosome, and sea-streeted cut.
Venice is a Garden of riches, and worldly pleasures the chiefe flowre
of Common-weales, and the perfect, mirrour of civill and politicke
Governement. This sequestrat Citty, is situate in the bosome of
Neptune, and divided from the world, with a part of his maine body,
which invironeth the Iland.
[The territories of Venice.] The Common-wealth of Venice, containeth
Marcha del Trevisa, which lieth in Lombardy, containing these Cities,
Trevisa, Padua, Vincenza, Verona, Briscia, the second City for bignesse
and beauty in all Lombardy, Bergamo, Chiozza, and Rovigno. Friuli,
formerly called Forum Julii, lieth in the straite betweene the East
end of the Alpes, and the sea Adriaticke, in length fifty, & in bredth
forty miles. It hath bene often subject to the vicissitude of fortune:
The chiefe towne is Treista in the bottome of the gulfe, and Palma
lately built by the Venetians 1583. being the most impregnable, and
best fortified towne in Italy: Friuli was a Dukedome, founded by the
Lombards at the beginning of the Venetian Common-wealth: Afterward
Luitprandus one of the Dukes, envying the increase of the dominion of
Venice, made war against them, which ended in the losse of his owne
countrey. The rest be Istria, a part of Dalmatia, the Ilands Candy,
Corfu, Zante, Cephalonia, Serigo, Tino, Val di Campare, Lesina,
and others of lesser note.
The Venetians howsoever of old, they have bene great warriours;
they are now more desirous to keepe, then inlarge their Dominions,
and that by presents and money, rather than by the sword or true
valour; so that whatsoever they loose by battell, it is observed,
they recover againe by treatise. The Venetians are sayd to have
discended of the Hennets in Asia lesser, who assisting
the Trojans, and Troy being lost, their King Pterilimene slaine, they
fled away with Antenor; and arriving in this part of Italy seated
themselves, till the report of the Hunnes designe against Italy,
made them, (avoyding the storme before it fell) to draw into these
Ilands and [The first plantation of Venice.] Marishes, where now it
standeth. It was first founded, and begun, Anno. 421. March 25. being
distant from the maine land five miles, and defended against the fury
of the sea, by a banke extending to fifty miles in length: Through
which in eight places, there is passage broken for small boates, but
no way for vessels of any burthen, save at Malamucco, and the castle
of Lio: Yea, and so dangerous, that there is neither out-going nor
in-comming, without a Pylot, which maketh the Citty unconquerable.
This Citty is seven miles in compasse, and from so base an abject
beginning, it is growne (as it were) to be the chiefe bulwarke of
Europe: The Duke of this Adriatick Queene, espouseth the sea, every
Ascension day, by casting a golden ring into it. Which Stultitious
ceremony by Pope Alexander the third was graunted, when he fled to
Venice for succour, being persecuted by Fredericke Barbarossa: And
the Venetians vanquishing Otho the Emperours sonne, restored the Pope,
and for a reward, was honoured with this espousall.
The length of the Territory of Venice in Lombardy, lying along the
foote and South side of the Alpes, amounteth to sixe score five miles:
The breadth whereof in the planure is narrow, but stripeth larger
among the hills and lakes, and very populous.
The applauding Italian sayth, that Europe is the head of the World,
Italy the face of Europe, and Venice the eye of Italy; and indeed,
it is the strongest, and most active part of that powerfull body:
Whereby it would appeare, that in the last subversion of the latter
[The Venetians are sprung of the Romans.] Monarchy, the Romane
Genius made a Pythagoricall transmigration into Venice; whose
peace hath procured the plenty, and whose warres the peace of all
Christendome. The lawes of this City permit not the younger sonnes of
the best Gentry to marrie, least the number increasing should deminish
the dignity: Yet neverthelesse they permit them unlawfull pleasures,
and for their sakes allow publicke stewes. The Jewes here, and in Rome,
weare red, and yellow hats for notice sake, to distinguish them from
others: which necessary custome (would to God) were enjoyned to all
the Papists here in England, so should we easily discerne them from
the true Christians. And finally, to discourse upon the provision
of their magnificent Arsenall, Artillery, Munition and Armor, the
division of streetes with channels, the innumerable bridges of stone
and timber, their accustomable kind of living, apparell, curtesies,
and conventions; and finally, the glory of Gallants, Galleries,
Gallies, Galleasses and Gallouns, were a thing impossible for me
briefly to relate. Wherefore since the situation thereof, and the
decorements of their beautifull Palaces, are so well knowne, and their
generall customes by the better sort, I desist, concluding thus; this
incomparable mansion is the onely Paragon of all Cities in the World.
Mine aforesaid Consort and I having spent ten dayes in viewing and
reviewing this City and circumjacent Isles, and my purpose reaching
for Greece and Asia, as his was to recrosse the snowy Alpes, my muse
remembreth our sad departure.
[Mr. Arthur his farewell from Venice.] Now freindly Arthur left
me, courts the Maine
Of pleasant Lombardy: By Trent againe
Beares through the Alpes, in his Tirolian wayes,
And past Bavaria, where Danubio strayes
He fell on Rhyne, and downe these curlings came:
Then shipd for Albion, neare to Ratterdame:
And coasting Isis, viewd that royall court,
Where once Appollo did in glory sport;
Fraught with Ambrosian nectar; crownd his daies
On Pindus tops, to have Mecenas praise
This light ohumbrat, Arthur courts the North
[The Earle of Glencairne.] And servd a noble Earle of auncient
worth
Full eighteene yeares: till death that darts our woe
First smote his Lord and then his Countesse so:
Now they are fled, and he is left alone
Till heavens provide his hopes some happy one
Which if to his desert, such fortune came,
A Princely service, might his merit clayme.
Where wishing both his fate, and worth to be
I'le Venice leave, and visit Lombardie.
In the time of my staying here, I went forth to Lombardy, and visited
the famous Cities of Padua, Verona, and Ferrara. The commendation of
which is celebrated in these verses:
Extollit Paduam, juris studium, & medicinæ.
Verona, humanæ dat singula commoda vitæ.
Exhaurit loculos ferrarea ferrea plenos.
In Padua I stayed three moneths learning the Italian tongue, and found
there a Countrey Gentleman of mine, Doctor John Wedderburne a learned
Mathametician, but now dwelling in Moravia, who taught me well in the
language, and in all other respects exceeding friendly to me. Padua
is the most melancholy City of Europe, the cause onely arising of
the narrow passage of the open streets, and of the long galleries
and dark-ranges of pillars, that goe alwhere on every hand of you,
through the whole streets of the Towne: The Schollers here in the night
commit many murthers against their privat adversaries, and too often
executed upon the stranger and innocent, and all with gun-shot or else
stilettoes: for beastly Sodomy, it is as rife here as in Rome, Naples,
Florence, Bullogna, Venice, Ferrara, Genoa, Parma not being exempted,
nor yet the smallest Village of Italy: A monstrous filthinesse, and
yet to them a pleasant pastime, making songs, and singing Sonets of
the beauty and pleasure of their Bardassi, or buggerd boyes.
I commend the devotion of Venice and Genua, beyond all the other
Cities of Italy; for the Venetians have banished the Jesuites out of
their Territories and Ilands: [A comparison of Jewes and Jesuits.] And
the Genueses have abandoned the society of Jewes, and exposed them
from their jurisdiction. The Jewes and the Jesuites are brethren
in blasphemies; for the Jewes are naturally subtill, hatefull,
avaritious, and above all the greatest calumniators of Christs
name: and the ambitious Jesuites, are flatterers, bloudy-gospellers,
treasonable tale-tellers, and the onely railers upon the sincere life
of good Christians. Wherefore I end with this verdict, the Jew and
the Jesuite, is a Pultrone and a Parasite.
THE SECOND PART
Now step I o're the gulfe, to th' Istrian shoare,
Dalmatia, Slavonia, Ilyria, more,
Valona, Albana, Epyre in Greice,
And Morea fat, where Jason hurt his fleece:
The Adriatick, and Ionean Iles,
And Lesinaes great monster; Athens styles;
With Lacedemon sackt, and Sparta rent
From auncient worth: Arcadia poore and shent:
Our gulfe Lepanto, the Ætolian hight,
And all these coasts, till Candy come in sight.
After my returne from Padua to Venice & 24. days attendance devasted
there for passage, I imbarked in a Carmoesalo, being bound to Zara
Novo in Dalmatia: Scarcely had we lost the sight of Venice, but we
incountred with a deadly storme at Seroco e Lenante. The Master had no
compasse to direct his course, neither was he expert in Navigation;
because they use commonly, either on the South or North sides of the
Gulfe, to hoise up sayles at night, and againe breake of day they have
full sight of land; taking their directions from the topped hills of
the maine continent. The tempest increasing, and the winds contrary,
we were constrained to seeke up for the Port of Parenzo in Istria.
Istria was called Giapidia, according to Pliny; Cato affirmeth it
was called Istria of one Isiro, but by the moderne writers, l'ultima
Regione di Italia. By Ptolomeus it is sayd to be of length 100. miles,
and forty large, but by mine experience onely 80. long and 20. large.
Istria hath on the South Friuli and the sea: on the West Stria:
on the North Carniola: on the East the gulfe [The antiquity of the
Istrians.] Carnaro or Quevero. It is thought the Istrians were first
a people of Colchis in Natolia, who by King Ætas being sent to pursue
Jason and the Argonauts (who had stolne the golden fleece and his
daughter Medea) either because of the long journey, or feare of the
Kings anger durst not returne, and so remained in this Country, where
they enjoyed a long freedom, til by many incursions of piracy, still
molesting the Venetians they lost many of their Townes Anno 938. &
afterward the whole Country made tributary by Duke Henry Gondolo
about the yeare 1200.
That part which bordereth with the sea, belongeth to the Venetians,
but the rest within land holds of the Emperour, and the Archduke of
Austria. The Country it selfe aboundeth in cornes, wines and all kinds
of fruites necessary for humane life. Neare to this haven wherein we
lay, expecting roome windes, I saw the ruines [Justinopoli decayed.] of
old Justinopoli, so called of Justinian the Emperour, who builded it
upon an Iland of a miles length, and three acres broad: And to passe
betwixt the City and the firme land, there was seven bridges made. It
was aunciently strong, but now altogether decayed: The principall
Cities in Istria at this day, are these, Parenzo, Humago, Pola, Rovigo.
The windes favouring us, we weighed Ankors, and sayled by the Iles
Brioni, so much esteemed, for the fine stones they produce, called
Istriennes: which serve to beautifie the Venetian Palaces. About
midday I saw Mount di Caldaro, on the foote of which, the auncient
City of Pola is situated, having a harbour wherein small shippes
may lie. True it is, this Port is not much frequented, in respect
of a contageous Lake neare to it, which infecteth the ayre with
a filthy exhalation. I saw hard by this place, the ruines of the
Castell di Oriando, the Arke Triumphant, and the reliques of a great
Amphitheatre. This Pola was called by Pliny, Julia pietas; and it
standeth in the South-east part of Istria. Continuing our course,
we passed the perillous gulfe of Carnaro.
This gulfe or bay of Carnaro, runneth in North, and by East 50.
miles within land, at the narrow entry whereof, it hath a part
of Istria on the West, and the Dalmatia on the East: The Venetians
use to keepe alwayes certaine Gallies at the mouth of this bay,
on the Dalmatian side, to intercept the cursary of the Scoks:
In the bottome of this Carnarian gulfe are placed Senna, Gradisca,
and Novagard, the chiefe Cities of Croatia: the people which inhabit
these Townes, and the adjoyning Countrey are called Scoks, a kind
of Dalmatians, being of a robust nature, courageous and desperate:
Their weapons are broad two handed swords, long Skenes, carrying
targets at their girdles, and long Gunnes in their hands: They are
marveilous swift on foote, and dayly annoy by land their neighbouring
Turkes with inrodes, fetching away great spoyles and booties, of [The
Scoks live under the house of Austria.] cornes, cattell and horses:
And by Sea with Frigots and Brigantines did ever and often vexe the
Venetian commerce, in their owne domesticke waters: The great losses
which from these incursive people the Venetians had from time to
time received, and the other dammages they inflicted upon the Turkes
in their trafficking with Venice, for whom the Venetians are bound
by former articles of peace, to keepe harmelesse within their owne
gulfe from all Christian invasions, was the onely and urgent cause
that moved the Venetians to wage warre with Ferdinando then Duke of
Grasse, and now Emperour, Anno Domini, 1616. And besieged Gradisca
to their no small disadvantage, both of charges and losse of men:
For the towne being strongly fortified with walles and munition, and
2000. Scoks within to defend it, would often at the neare approaching
of the enemy make a salley forth on horse and foote, giving many
miserable overthrowes to the Assailants: To the which detriments,
for twenty dayes space I was a testator, being after my returne from
Affricke in my second travels, as I was going for Hungary, Moldavia,
Valecchia and Transilvania, taking this countrey in my way: And one
morning at the breake of day, I saw 800. Scoks issuing out of towne,
make bloudy havocke of 3000. of the Venetian army: [Croatia.] This
part of Croatia is exceeding fertile, abounding in cornes, wines,
bestiall and pastorage, though then by lawlesse, and turbulent
souldiers, it was miserable defaced.
The whole number of these Scoks that are able to carry armes, be
not above sixe thousand men: They are wonderfull kinde to strangers,
which to me in no small measure was extended, and that by the better
sort their Captaines and Commanders, and onely for the affinity of
Scoki and Scoti, although I dare sweare, there is little or none at
all betwixt the two Nations.
Having passed Carnaro, we sayled close by the Ile Sangego, called
formerly Illrides: This Isle is of circuit foure score, and of length
thirty miles. Our fresh water waxing scant, and the winds falling out
contrary to our expectation, we sought into Valdogosto in the Isle of
Osero, which is a safe haven for ships and Gallies. This Osero was
first named Asphorus, and then Absirtides, of a Captaine Absertus,
who came from Colchis, accompanied with many people, to bring backe
Medea to her carefull father. Whose purpose being frustrated, stayed
still, and inhabited this land. A fit oportunity obtained upon the
[Zara nova.] eighth day, we arrived in the roade of Zara in Dalmatia;
for there the Carmoesalo stayed, and I was exposed to seeke passage
for Ragusa.
By the way, I recall the great kindnesse of that Dalmatian Maister,
for offering my condition, I found him more then courteous, and
would have no more but the halfe of that, which was his bargaine
at Venice. Besides this, he also entertained me three dayes, with a
most bountifull, and kind acceptance: My solitary travelling he oft
bewailed, wishing me to desist, and never attempt such a voyage; but
I giving him absolute, and constant answers, appeased his imagined
sorrow.
[Ignorance and Sloth.] True it is, that ignorance and sloth, make
every thing terrible unto us, and we will not, because we dare not,
and dare not, because we will not: This makes us submit our selves
to any thing, that doth either flatter or threaten us: And like some
sottish weakelings, that give the reines of their governement into the
hands of their Wives or Servants, thinking then they buy their peace
when they sell it; thus doe they grow upon us, I meane ignorance and
sloth, and by composition, not force, become masters of the place,
being just so strong, as we are weake. And as contrary newes delivered
at one time, maketh one to heare with joy, and remember with sorrow;
even so an unresolved man, in high and heroyicke designes, though
seeming forward is distracted here, set on feare there, and rent
asunder every where with the flashing frights of desperation: But a
constant resolution can couragiously support all things; Ubicunque
homo est, ibi beneficio locus est. And congratulating this Skippers
courtesie, I bad farewell to his councell.
Zara is the capitall city of Dalmatia, called of old, Jadara. The
inhabitants are governed by a Camarlingo, or Chamberlaine, in the
behalfe of Venice. The walles whereof are strongly rampired with
earth; surpassing the tops of the stone-worke: and fortified also with
high Bulwarkes, and planted Canons on elevated Rampires of earth:
which are above forty cubites higher then the Walles and Bulwarkes;
standing in the foure severall corners of the city.
There lye continually in it; a great Garrison of Souldiers to defend
the towne and Citizens, who are maintained by the Duke of Venice:
for he is Signior thereof. They have indured many invasions of the
Turkes, especially in the yeare one thousand five hundreth and seventy,
when for the space of fourteene moneths, they were dayly molested and
besieged, but the victory fell ever to the Christians: If the Turkes
could win this place, they might easily commaund the Adriaticall Seas,
in regard of that faire Haven which is there, to receive Ships and
Gallies; which maketh the Venetians not a little fearefull because
of their safeguard.
Yet they licentiate the neighbouring Infidels to traffick with them,
but when they enter the gates, they must deliver their weapons to the
Corporall of the Squadron company: Neither may they stay within all
night under the paine of imprisonment. [Dalmatia.] Dalmatia was called
so of Mauritius the Emperour. The foure principall Provinces whereof
are these, Atheos, Senebico, Spalleto and Tragurio. A part of which
belongeth to Venice, another part to the arch Duke of Austria, and a
third unto the Turkes. Zara is distance from Venice two hundreth miles.
When the wandring night was chased from the inferiour Ilands, by the
recoursing day, and the Sunne had imparted his brightnesse to our under
neighbours, and our dreames ready to possesse the Theater of the fancy,
the wearisome creatures of the world declining to their rest; and under
shaddow of the pale Lady of the night; even then, from Zara I imbarked
in a small Frigot, bound for Lesina, with five Slavonian Marriners:
who sometimes sailed, & somtimes rowed with Oares: in our way we past
by the Ile of Brazza, which is of no great quantity, but fertile enough
for the Inhabitants, and kept by a Gentleman of Venice. It lieth in
the mouth of the gulfe Narento, that divideth Dalmatia from Slavonia:
Many fondly conceive that these two kingdomes are all one, but I hold
the contrary opinion, both by experience, and by auncient Authors:
having passed Capo di Costa, which is the beginning of Slavonia, I
saw upon my right hand, a round Rocke of a great height, in forme of
a Piramide; being cognominated by Easterne Mariners, Pomo, aunciently
Salyro, for the good Faulcons that are bred therein. It standeth in the
middest of the Gulfe betweene Slavonia and Italy, and not habitable.
A little beyond that Rocke, I saw the three Iles Tremiti: The chiefest
whereof is called Teucria, but they are vulgarly called the Iles of
Diomedes, who was King of Etolia. They are right opposite to Mount
Gargano, now called [Mount S. Angelo.] Saint Angelo, and distant from
the maine land of Apulia in Italy about nine miles.
This Mount Saint Angelo standeth in Apulia, bending in the Sea with
a large promontore, it is in compasse ninety miles? Neare to this
Mountaine, was that great battell fought, betweene Hanniball and
the Romanes: the overthrow fell to the Romanes, under the conduct
of Paulus Æmilius, and other Consuls, of whom were slaine fourty
two thousand and seven hundred; And if Hanniball had followed this
victory, he had easily that day subdued the common-wealth of Rome:
which made Maharball Captaine of his horse-men rebuke him thus,
Vincere scis Hanniball victoria uti nescis.
Thou canst o'recome thy foes in bloody fight,
But can not use the victory aright.
The like said Cæsar of Pompey, when he lost the first battell they
fought at Pharsalia in Greece; O Pompey, Pompey, If thou hadst knowne
how to have used the victory, as thou hadst it, thou mightest have
beene this day Lord of the whole World.
[A woful battell.] So to our lamentable memory, may that last battell
be recorded fought in Hungary, betweene the Turkes and Christians,
of whom Maxamilian Duke of Isbrugh this present Emperours Uncle was
Generall: who having had a nocturnall victory, and the Infidels put to
the flight, they remaining in the Campe more busie about the spoyles
then their owne safety; the Turkes returned againe before day, the
Christians being disordered with booties and the ravening of their
whores, they put them all to the edge of the sword: O miserable
confusion! Little better might I speake of the battell of Lepanto
being abusd even in the using of it, and that glorious victory no
waies followed, as good fortune had given them an awfull opportunity:
For Don John of Austria their Generall had a greater mind to seaze
upon the Ile of Corfu, and to robbe Venice of her liberty, then to
prosecute with vengeance the brave beginning of so notable a victory;
and yet his treachery was discoverd, and by the Venetian Generall
speedily disappointed, to his eternall shame both wayes.
The poore Slavonians being fatigated in their hunger-starving Boat,
with extraordinary paines (for we had three daies calme, which is not
usually seene in these Seas) were enforced to repose all night at
the barren Ile of St. Andrew: This Ile is of circuite foure miles,
but not inhabited: The excessive raine that fell in the evening,
made us goe on shoare, to seeke the coverture of some rocke; which
found, we lay all night on hard stones, and with hungry bellies:
for our provision was spent. The breach of day giving comfort to our
distressed bodies, with favourable windes at the Garbo e ponente,
we set forward, and about midday we arrived in the Port of Lesina,
of which the Ile taketh the name.
This Ile of Lesina is of circuite, a hundred and fifty miles, and is
the biggest Iland in the Adriaticke Sea: It is exceeding fertile, and
yeeldeth all things plentifully, that is requisite for the sustenance
of man. The City is unwalled, and of no great quantity, but they
have a strong fortresse, which defendeth the Towne, the Haven, and
the vessels in the Roade. The Governour, who was a Venetian, after he
had enquired of my intended voyage, most courteously invited me three
times to his Table, in the time of my five dayes staying there: And
at the last meeting, he reported the story of a marvellous mis-shapen
creature borne in the Iland, asking if I would goe thither to see it:
wherewith (when I perfectly understood the matter) I was contented:
The Gentleman honoured me also with his company, and a horse to
ride on, where when we came, the Captaine called for the father of
[A Monster borne in Lesina.] that Monster, to bring him foorth before
us. Which unnaturall Childe being brought, I was amazed in that sight,
to behold the deformity of Nature; for below the middle part, there
was but one body, and above the middle there was two living soules,
each one separated from another with severall members. Their heads
were both of one bignesse but different in Phisnomy: The belly
of the one joyned with the posterior part of the other, and their
faces looked both one way, as if the one had carried the other on
his backe, and often before our eyes, he that was behind, would lay
his hands about the necke of the formost. Their eyes were exceeding
bigge, and their hands greater then an Infant of three times their
age. The excrements of both creatures issued foorth at one place,
and their thighes and legges of a great growth, not semblable to
their age, being but sixe and thirty dayes old; and their feete were
proportionably made like to the foot of a Cammell, round and cloven
in the middest. They received their food with an insatiable desire,
and continually mourned with a pitifull noyse; that sorrowfull man
told us, that when the one slept, the other awaked, which was a strange
disagreement in Nature. The Mother of them bought dearely that birth,
with the losse of her owne life; as her Husband reported, unspeakeable
was that torment she indured, in that woefull wrestling paine. I was
also informed afterwards, that this one, or rather twofold wretch
lived but a short while after we saw them.
Leaving this monstrous shapen Monster to the owne strange, and almost
incredulous Nativity, we returned to Lesiva. But by the way of our
backe comming, I remember that worthy Gentleman who shewed me the
ruines of an old house, where the noble [Demetrius.] King Demetrius
was borne; and after I had yeelded by bounden and dutifull thankes
unto his generous minde, I hired a Fisher-boate to goe over to Clissa,
being twelve miles distant. This Ile of Clissa is of length twenty,
and of circuit threescore miles: It is beautified with two profitable
Sea-ports, and under the Signiory of Venice. There are indifferent
good commodities therein; upon the South side of this Iland lieth
the Ile Pelagusa, a rocky and barren place.
Departing from thence in a Carmoesalo bound to Ragusa, we sailed
by the three Iles, Brisca, Placa, Igezi; And when we entred in the
Gulfe of Cataro, we fetched up the sight of the Ile Melida, called
of old Meligna: Before we could attaine unto the Haven, wherein our
purpose was to stay all night, we were assailed on a sudden with a
deadly storme: Insomuch, that every swallowing wave threatned our
death, and bred in our breasts, an intermingled sorrowe of feare
and hope. And yet hard by us, and within a mile to the ley-ward,
a Barbarian man of war of Tunneis, carrying two tyre of Ordonance,
and 200. men, seaz'd upon a Carmosale of Venice, at the first shot,
she being loaden with Malvasie and Muscadine and come from Candy, and
had us also in chase till night divided our contrary designes. The
winds becomming favourable, and our double desired safety enjoyed,
both because of the sea storme, and of the stormy Pyrat, we set
forward in the Gulfe of Cataro, and sayled by the [Cursola.] Ile
Cursola: in this island I saw a walled towne called Curzola, which
hath two strong Fortresses to guard it. It is both commodious for
the trafficke of Merchandize they have, and also for the fine wood
that groweth there, whereof the Venetian Ships and Gallies are made:
An Iland no lesse pleasant then profitable; and the two Governours
thereof are changed every eighteene moneths, by the State of Venice.
It was of old called Curcura, Melana, and of some Corcira Nigra,
but by the Modernes, Curzola. Continuing our course, we passed by
the iles Sabionzello, Torquolla, and Catza Augusta, appertaining
to the Republike of Ragusa. They are all three well inhabited and
fruitfull, yeelding cornes, wines, and certaine rare kinds of excellent
fruites. It is dangerous for great vessels to come neere their coasts,
because of the hidden shelfs that lie off in the sea, called Augustini,
where divers ships have beene cast away in fowle weather; upon the
second day after our loosing from Clissa, we arrived at Ragusa.
[Ragusa.] Ragusa is a Common-weale, governed by Senators, and a
Senate Counsell; it is wonderfull strong, and also well guarded,
being situate by the sea side, it hath a fine Haven, and many
goodly ships thereunto belonging: The greatest trafficke they have,
is with the Genueses: Their territory in the firme land is not
much in respect of the neighbouring Turkes, but they have certaine
commodious ilands, which to them are profitable: And notwithstanding,
of the great strength and riches they possesse, yet for their better
safeguard and liberty, they pay a yearly tributary pension unto the
great Turke, amounting to fourteene thousand Chickens of Gold: yea,
and also they pay yearely a tributary pension unto the Venetians, for
the Iles reserved by them in the Adriaticall Gulfe, so that both by
sea and land they are made tributary citizens. The most part of the
civill Magistrates, have but the halfe of their heads bare, but the
vulger sort are all shaven like to the Turkes.
This Citty is the Metropolitan of the Kingdome of [Slavonia.] Slavonia:
Slavonia was first called Liburnia, next, Illiria, of Ilirio the
sonne of Cadmus: But lastly, named Slavonia, of certaine slaves that
came from Sarmatia passing the river Danubio, in the time of the
Emperour Justinian: Croatia lying North-west from hence, is the third
Province of this auntient Ilyria, and was formerly called Valeria,
or Corvatia: It hath on the West Istria and Carniola: on the East
and South, Dalmatia: on the North North-west a part of Carindia
quasi Carinthia, and northerly Savus: So much as is called Slavonia,
extendeth from the River Arsa in the West, the river Drino in the
East, on the South bordereth with the Gulfe of Venice, and on the
North with the Mountaines of Croatia: These Mountaines divide also
Ragusa from Bosna. Bosna is bounded on the West with Croatia, and
on the South with Illiricum, or Slavonia, on the East with Servia:
and on the North with the River Savus.
The next two speciall Citties in that Kingdome, are Sabenica
and Salona. The Slavonians are of a robust nature, martiall, and
marvellous valiant fellowes, and a great helpe to maintaine the right
and liberty of the Venetian State, serving them both by sea and land,
and specially upon their Galleyes and men of Warre. From Ragusa
I imbarked in a Tartareta, loaden with corne, and bound to Corfu,
being three hundred miles distant.
In all this way we found no Iland, but sayled along the maine land
of the Illirian shoare: having passed the Gulfe of Cataro, and
Capo di Fortuna, I saw Castello novo: which is a strong Fortresse,
situate on the top of a Rocke: wherein one Barbarisso, the Captaine
of Solyman, [4000. Spaniards starvd to death.] starved to death foure
thousand Spaniards. Having left Illiria Albania, and Valona behind
us, we sayled by Capo di Palone, the large promontore of which,
extendeth to eight miles in length, being the face of a square and
maine Rocke. This high land is the furthest part of the Gulfe of
Venice, and opposite against Capo di Sancta Maria in Apulia, each
one in sight of another, and fourteene leagues distant. Continuing
our Navigation, we entred into the Sea Ionium, and sayled along the
coast of Epire, which was the famous Kingdome of the Epirotes, and
the first beginning of Greece. Epirus is environed on the South with
the sea Ionian: on the East with Macedon; On the West North west,
with Albania; and on the North, with a part of Rascia, and the huge
Hill Hæmus: Of which Mountaine Stratonicus was wont to say, that
for eight moneths in the yeare, it was exceeding cold, and for the
other foure, it was Winter: This long Mountaine devideth also Greece
from Mysia, called vulgarly Bulgaria, lying on the North of Hæmus,
and to the South of Danubio, even Eastward to the Euxine sea: Which
River parteth also Dacia, from Mysia the superiour, the which Dacia
being an auncient and famous countrey, containeth these Provinces,
Transilvania, Moldavia, Vallachia, Servia, and Bosna: Here in this
Kingdome of Epyre, was the noble and valiant Pirhus King, who made
so great warres upon the Romanes, and at last by a woman of Argos
was killed with a stone: The most valerous Captaine George Castriot
surnamed [Scanderberg.] Scanderberg, the great terrour and scourge
unto the Turkes was borne here; of whom it is recorded, he slew at
diverse battels with his owne hands, above three thousand Turkes;
obtaining also many fortunate victories against Amurath and Mahomet:
After whose death and buriall, his body was digged up by the Turkes,
and joyfull was that man could get the least bit of his bones to
preserve, and carry about with him, thinking thereby so long as he
kept it, he should alwayes be invincible, which the Turkes observe
to this day, and likely to do it to their last day. And more,
Renoun'd Epire, that gave Olimpias life,
Great Alexanders Mother, Phillips Wife.
In this countrey are these two Rivers, Acheron and Cocytus; who for
their minerall colours, and bitter tasts, were surnamed the Rivers
of Hell; and the sacred Mount Pindus, celebrate to Apollo and the
Muses so well memorized by Poets, is here. It is now called Mezzona,
at the foote of which springeth the River of Peneia, called Modernely
Salepiros, but more properly Azababa, and keeping his extreamest
course through the fields of pleasure, named by the auncients Tempi,
being five miles long, and as much large, lying betweene the two
Hils Osso and Olympus, and watering that beautiful plaine, the
faire Peneian spring, or Azababan River, disburdeneth it selfe in
the gulfe Thessalonick. This is the first kingdom of Greece, and of
a great length consisting betweene the West, most part of Albania,
as a perpendicular Province annexed to it, and the Arcadian Alpes,
which divide Ætolia and Acarnania, the East-most regions of it,
from Sparta, Thessaly, and the old Mirmidons Countrey of Macedon,
amounteth to foure hundred and eight miles, lying along by the Sea
side, whose breadth extendeth all the way along Northward to the hill
Hæmus, above 68. miles. The chiefe Towne of Epyre, where the Kings
had their residence, was called Ambracia, modernely Laerto named of
a river running by it: And upon the sixt day after our departure from
Ragusa, we arrived at Corfu.
[The Ile Corfu.] Corfu is an Iland, no lesse beautifull, then
invincible: It lieth in the Sea Ionean, the Inhabitants are Greekes,
and the Governours Venetians: This Ile was much honoured by Homer,
for the pleasant Gardens of Alcino, which were in his time. This
Alcino was that Corcyrian Poet, who so benignely received Ulysses
after his shipwracke, and of whom Ovid said.
Quid bifera Alcinoi referam pomaria? vosque,
Qui nunquam vacui prodistis in æthere rami,
Why blaze I forth, Alcinoes fertile soyle,
And trees, from whence, all times they fruit recoyle.
This Ile was given to the Venetians by the Corsicans,
Anno. 1382. because they were exposed to all the injuries of the world:
It lieth like to a halfe moone, or halfe a circle East and North: The
Easterne Cape is called Leuchino, the other Northward, St. Katerina;
the second Towne whereof is called Pagleopoli: It is of circuite one
hundred and twenty, in length fifty two, and thirty seaven in breadth,
and foureteene miles distant from Epyre. The City Corfu, from which the
Ile hath the name, is situate at the foote of a Mountaine, whereupon
are builded two strong Fortresses, and invironed with a naturall Rocke:
The one is called Fortezza Nova and the other Fortezza vecchia: They
are well governed, and circumspectly kept, least by the instigation
of the one Captaine, the other should commit any treasonable effect:
And for the same purpose, the Governours of both Castles, at their
election before the Senatours of Venice are sworne; neither privately,
nor openly to have mutuall conference; nor to write one to another, for
the space of two yeares, which is the time of their government. These
Castles are inaccessable, and unconquerable, if that the Keepers be
loyall, and provided with naturall and martiall furniture. They are
vulgarly called, [Two strong Castles.] The Forts of Christendome, by
the Greekes; but more justly, The strength of Venice: for if these
Castles were taken by the Turkes, or by the Spanyard who would as
gladly have them, the trade of the Venetian Merchants would be of
none account; yea the very meane to overthrow Venice it selfe.
Corfu formerly Corcyra. was by some called Phæacia, so denominate from
a Virgin of that name, who was here supposed to have beene deflowred
by Neptune. This Ile produceth good store of Wines, Oyle, Wax, Honey,
and delicate fruits.
From thence after certaine daies abode, I imbarked in a Greekish
Carmesalo, with a great number of passengers, Greekes, Slavonians,
Italians, Armenians, and Jewes, that were all mindefull to Zante, and
I also of the like intent; being in all fourty eight persons: having
roome windes, and a fresh gale, in 24. houres we discovered the Ile
Cephalonia the greater; and sayled close along Cephalonia minor, or
the lesser Ithaca, called now Val di Compare, being in length twenty,
and in circuite fifty sixe miles, renowned for the birth of Laertes
sonne, Ulysses;
[Ithaca where Ulysses was borne.] From th'Ithac rockes we fled
Laertes shoare,
And curs'd the land, that dire Ulysses bore.
For Ilions sake, with Dardan blood attird,
Whose wooden horse, the Trojan Temples fird.
On our left hand toward the maine, we saw an Iland, called Saint Maure,
formerly Leucas, or Leucada; which is onely inhabited by Jewes, to
whome Bajazet the second gave it in possession, after their expulsion
from Spaine: The chiefe City is Saint Maure, which not long agoe was
subject to Venice. This Ile Saint Maure was aunciently contiguate
with the continent, but now rent asunder, and invironed with the sea:
In this meane while of our navigable passage, the Captaine of the
vessell espied a Saile comming from Sea, he presently being moved
therewith, sent a Mariner to the toppe, who certified him she was a
Turkish Galley of Biserta, prosecuting a straight course to invade
our Barke. Which sudden affrighting newes overwhelmed us almost in
despare. Resolution being by the amazed Maister demaunded, of every
man what was best to doe, some replyed one way, and some another:
Insomuch, that the most part of the passengers gave counsell,
rather to render, then fight; being confident, their friends would
pay their ransome, and so relieve them. But I the wandring Pilgrime,
pondering in my pensive breast, my solitary estate, the distance of my
Country and friends, could conceive no hope of deliverance. Upon the
which troublesome and fearefull appearance of slavery, [A counsell to
fight.] I absolutely arose, and spoke to the Maister, saying: The halfe
of the Carmosalo is your owne, and the most part also of the loading
(all which he had told me before:) wherefore my counsell is, that
you prepare your selfe to fight, and goe encourage your passengers,
promise to your Mariners double wages, make ready your two peeces
of Ordonance, your Muskets, Powder, Lead and halfe-Pikes: for who
knoweth, but the Lord may deliver us from the thraldome of these
Infidels, My exhortation ended, he was greatly animated therewith, and
gave me thankes; whereupon, assembling the passengers and Mariners,
he gave good comfort, and large promises to them all: So that their
affrighted hopes were converted to a couragious resolution; seeming
rather to give the first assault, then to receive the second wrong.
To performe the plots of our defence, every man was busie in the worke,
some below in the Gunner-roome, others cleansing the Muskets, some
preparing the powder and balles, some their Swords, and short weapons,
some dressing the halfe-pikes, & others making fast the doores above:
for so the Maister resolved to make combate below, both to save us from
small shot, and besides for boording us on a sudden. The dexterous
courage of all men was so forward to defend their lives and liberty,
that truely in mine opinion we seemed thrice as many as we were. All
things below and above being cunningly perfected, and every one ranked
in order with his Harquebuse and pike, to stand on the Centinell of his
owne defence, we recommended our selves in the hands of the Almighty:
and in the meane while attended their fiery salutations.
In a furious spleene, the first Hola of their courtesies, was
the progresse of a martiall conflict, thundring forth a terrible
noise of Galley-roaring peeces. And we in a sad reply, sent out a
backe-sounding eccho of fiery flying shots: which made an æquivox
to the clouds, rebounding backward in our perturbed breasts, the
ambiguous sounds of feare and hope. After a long and doubtfull fight,
both with great and small shot (night parting us) the Turkes retired
till morning, and then were mindfull to give us the new rancounter
of a second alarum. But as it pleased him, who never faileth his,
to send downe an unresistable tempest; about the breake of day we
escaped their furious designes; and were enforced to seeke into the
bay of Largostolo in Cephalonia; both because of the violent weather,
and also for that a great lake was stricken into our Ship. In this
fight there were of us killed three Italians, two Greekes, and two
Jewes, with eleven others deadly wounded, and I also hurt in the right
arme with [A notable deliverance.] a small shot. But what harme was
done by us amongst the Infidels, we were not assured thereof, save
onely this, we shot away their middle mast, and the hinder part of
the puppe; for the Greekes are not expert Gunners, neither could our
Harquebusadoes much annoy them, in respect they never boorded. But
howsoever it was, being all disbarked on shoare, we gave thanks to
the Lord for our unexpected safety, and buried the dead Christians
in a Greekish Church-yard, and the Jewes were interred by the sea side.
This bay of Largastolo is two miles in length, being invironed with
two little Mountaines; upon the one of these two, standeth a strong
Fortresse, which defendeth the passage of the narrow Gulfe. It was here
that the Christian Gallies assembled, in the yeare 1571. when they came
to abate the rage of the great Turks Armado; which at that time lay in
Peterasso, in the firme land of Greece, and right opposite to them; and
had made conquest the yeare before, of noble Cyprus from the Venetians.
The Ile of Cephalonia was formerly called Ithaca, and greatly renowned,
because it was the heretable Kingdome of the worthy Ulysses, who
excelled all other Greekes in Eloquence and subtility of wit. Secondly,
by Strabo it was named Dulichi: And thirdly, by auncient Authors
[Cephalonia of old Ithaca.] Cephalonia, of Cephalo, who was Captaine
of the Army of Cleobas Anfrittion. The which Anfrittion, a Theban
Captaine having conquered the Iland, and slaine in battell Pterelaus
King of Teleboas, for so then was the Iland called, gave it in a gift
of government to Cephalo. This Cephalo was a Noble man of Athens,
who being one day at hunting killed his owne wife Procris, with an
arrow in steed of his prey, whereupon he flying to Amphitrion, and
the other pittying his case, resigned this Islle to him, of whom it
taketh the denomination: Cephalonia lyeth in the mouth of the Gulfe
Lepanto, opposite to a part of Ætolia and Acarnania in the firme land:
It is in circuit 156. and in length 48. miles.
The land it selfe is full of Mountaines, yet exceeding fertile,
yeelding Malvasia, Muskadine, vino Leatico, Raysins, Olives, Figges,
Honey, Sweet-water, Pine, Mol-berry, Date, and Cypre-trees, and all
other sorts of fruites in abundance. The commodity of which redounds
yearely to the Venetians, for they are Signiors thereof.
Leaving this weather-beaten Carmoesalo, layd up to a full sea,
I tooke purpose to travell through the Iland; in the first dayes
journey, I past by many fine Villages and pleasant fields, especially
the vaile Alessandro; where the Greekes told me, their Ancestors
were vanquished in battell by the Macedonian Conquerour. They also
shewed me on the top of Mount Gargasso, the ruines of that Temple,
which had beene of old dedicate to Jupiter: and upon the second day
I hired two Fisher-men in a little Boat, to carry me over to Zante,
being twenty five miles distant.
Here in Zante a Greekish Chyrurgion undertooke the curing of my arme,
& performed condition within time.
[Zante.] The Ile of Zante was called Zacinthus, because so was called
the sonne of Dardanus, who reigned there. And by some Hyria. It hath
a Citty of a great length, bordering along the sea side, the chiefe
seate of the Ile, & named Zante, over the doore of whose Prætorium
or Judgement Hall, are inscribed these verses,
Hic locus, odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,
Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, probos.
This place, hates, loves, chastens, conserves, rewards,
Vice, peace, fellony, lawes, vertuous regards.
And on the top of a Hill, above the towne, standeth a large,
and strong Fortresse (not unlike the Castle of Milaine) wherein
the Providitore dwelleth, who governeth the Iland. This Citty is
subject yearely to fearefull Earthquakes, especially in the moneths
of October and November, which oftentimes subvert their houses, and
themselves, bringing deadly destruction on all. This Ile produceth
good store of Rasini di Corintho, commonly called Currants, Olives,
Pomgranates, Cytrones, Orenges, Lemmons, Grenadiers, and Mellones,
and is in compasse 68. miles, being distant from the fore Promontore
of Morea some 16. miles.
The Ilanders are Greekes, a kind of subtile people, and great
dissemblers; but the Signiory thereof belongeth to Venice. And if it
were not for that great provision of corne, which are dayly transported
from the firme land of Peleponesus to them, the Inhabitants in short
time would famish.
It was credibly told me here by the better sort, that this little
Ile maketh yearely (besides Oyle and Wine) onely of Currants
160000. Chickins, paying yearely over and above for custome
22000. Piasters, every Chicken of Gold being nine shillings English,
and every Piaster being white money sixe shillings. A rent or summe
of mony which these silly Ilanders could never affoord, (they being
not above 60. yeares agoe, but a base beggarly people, and an obscure
place) if it were not here in England of late for some Liquorous
lips, who forsooth can hardly digest Bread, Pasties, Broth; and
(verbi gratia) bag-puddings without these curraunts: And as these
Rascall Greekes becomming proud of late with this levish expence,
contemne justly this sensuall prodigality; I have heard them often
demaund the English in a filthy derision, what they did with such
Leprous stuffe, and if they carried them home to feed their Swine and
Hogges withall: A question indeed worthy of such a female Traffike,
the inference of which I suspend: There is no other Nation save this,
thus addicted to that miserable Ile.
Bidding farewell to Zante, I imbarked in a Frigato, going to Peterasso
in Morea, which of old was called Peloponesus: And by the way in the
Gulfe Lepanto (which divideth Etolia and Morea. The chiefest Citty
in Etolia is called Lepanto: from thence West-ward by the sea side,
is Delphos, famous for the Oracle of Apollo) we sayled by the Iles
Echinidi, but by Moderne Writers, Curzolari: where the Christians
obtained the victory against the Turkes, for there did they fight,
after this manner.
[Christian Generalls.] In the yeare 1571. and the sixth of October,
Don John of Austria, Generall for the Spanish Gallies, Marco Antonio
Colonna, for Pope Pio Quinto; and Sebastiano Venieco for the Venetian
Army, convened altogether in Largostolo at Cephalonia: having of all
208. Gallies, sixe Galleasses, and 25. Frigotes.
After a most resolute deliberation, these three Generals went with a
valiant courage to incounter with the Turkish Armado, on the Sunday
morning, the seventh of October: who in the end, through the helpe
of Christ, obtained a [The battell of Lepanto.] glorious victory. In
that fight there was taken and drowned 180. of Turkish Gallies; and
there escaped about the number of sixe hundred and fifty shippes,
Gallies, Galeotes, and other vessels: There was fifteene thousand
Turkes killed and foure thousand taken prisoners, besides 4000. peeces
of Ordonance, and twelve thousand Christians delivered from their
slavish bondage. In all, the Christians loosed but eleven Gallies,
and five thousand slaine. At their returne to Largostolo, after this
victorious battell, the three Generals divided innumerable spoyles,
to their well-deserving Captaines, and worthy Souldiers.
And notwithstanding Don John led that Armado, yet ambition led him, who
in the midst of that famous victory, conceaved a treacherous designe,
to seaze upon the castles of Corfu, under shew of the Venetian colors,
which being discoverd, and he disappointed, died for displeasure in
his returne to Messina in Sicilia; where there his Statue standeth
to this day.
After my arrivall in Peterasso, the Metropolitan of Peloponesus, I
left the turmoyling dangers of the intricated Iles, of the Ionean and
Adriaticall seas, and advised to travell in the firme land of Greece,
with a Caravan of Greekes that was bound for Athens.
Peterasso is a large and spacious City, full of Merchandize,
and greatly beautified with all kind of Commercers, Their
chiefe commodities, are raw Silkes, Cloth of gold and silver,
Silken-growgranes, Rich-damas, Velvets of all kinds, with Sattins
and Taffeties, and especially a Girnell for grayne: The Venetians,
Ragusans, and Marseillians have great handling with them: Here I
remember there was an English Factor lying, whom the Subbassa or
Governour of the Towne a Turke, caused privately afterward upon malice
to be poysoned, even when I was wintering at Constantinople, for whose
death the worthy and generous Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover my Patrone
and Protector, was so highly incensed, that he went hither himselfe
to Peterasso, with two Jannizaries, and a warrant sent with him from
the Emperour, who in the midst of the market-place of Peterasso,
caused one of these two Janizaries, strike off the head from the
shoulders of that Sanzack; and put to death divers others also that
had beene accessary to the poysoning of the English Consul; and the
Ambassadour returning againe to Constantinople, was held in singular
reputation even with the Turkes, for prosecuting so powerfully the
course of Justice, and would not shrinke for no respect, I being
domestick with him the selfe same time.
[Morea in Greece.] Peloponnesus now called Morea, a Peninsula, is all
invironed with the sea, save onely at a narrow strait, where it is
tied to the continent by an Istmus of five miles in breadth: which the
Venetians then Lord of it, fortified with five Castles, and a strong
wall from creeke to creeke, which easily were subverted by the Turkish
batteries, the defect onely remaining in the defendants weaknesse,
and want of men: Corinth and its gulfe, lyeth at the East end of this
Istmus, and the gulfe Lepanto on the West, dividing Ætolia and Epyre:
The wall which traversed this strait of Morea, was called Hexamite,
five miles long: Truely it is one of the most famous distroit du terre
en Europe. Morea it selfe is in length 168. and in compasse 546. miles,
and is at this day, the most fertile, and best inhabited Province
of all the Empyre of Greece: The chiefe Rivers here, are Arbona and
Ropheos: Argos here also is watered with the River Planizza, neare
which standeth the Towne of Epidaure, wherein the Temple of Esculapius
was so renowned for restoring of health to diseased persons. It
was anciently cognominate Agalia from Agalius the first King, Anno
Mundi 1574. and also intituled from two Kings Sicionia, and Apia,
then Peloponesus from Pelops, and now Moreah. It is divided in five
territories or petty Provinces, Laconia, Arcadia, Argolis, Misenia,
and Eliso, the proper territory of Corinth. Of which City it was sayd,
Hor. Let men take heed of Lais, Corinths whoore,
Who earn'd ten thousand Drachmas in an houre.
It is sayd by Æneas Silvius in his Cosmographicall treatise of Europe
that divers Kings went about to digge [The strait of Morea.] through
this Istmus to make it an Iland, namely King Demetrius, Julius Cæsar,
Caius Caligula, and Domitius Nero: Of all whome he doth note that they
not onely failed of their purpose, but that they came to violent and
unnaturall deaths.
But before the aforesayd Caravan at Peterasso admitted me into his
company, he was wonderfull inquisitive, to know for what cause I
travelled alone? & of what Nation I was? To whom I soberly excused, and
discovered my selfe with modest answers. Which pacified his curiosity;
but not his avaritious minde: for under a pretended protection he
had of me, he extorted the most part of my money from my purse,
without any regard of conscience.
In the first, second, and third dayes journeying, we had faire way,
hard lodging, but good cheere, and kind entertainement for our money,
which was the Countrey Laconia. But on the fourth day, when we entred
in the hilly and barren Countrey of Arcadia; where, for a dayes journey
we had no Village, but saw abundance of Cattell without keepers;
and in that place it is thought the great battell of Pharsalia was
fought betweene Julius Cæsar, and Pompey the great.
[Arcadia.] Arcadia is bounded on the East with Eliso, on the West with
Misenia, on the North with Achaia inferiour, and on the South with
a part of Laconia and the sea: It was formerly termed Pelasgia, and
lastly it tooke the name from Arcas the sonne of Jupiter and Calisto,
the people whereof, did long imagine they were more auncient then
the Moone;
This soyle of whom Arcas great patrone was,
In age the Moone excell'd, in wit the Asse.
But because it is a tradition of more antiquity then credit,
I doe rather note it, then affirme it: And as men should dread
the thunder-bolt, when they see the lightning, so ignorance and
idolatry placed amongst us, and round about us, may be a warning to
the professours of the trueth, to take heed of the venome, least by
their Arcadian antiquitie surpassing the Moone, they become novices
to some new intended massacre, for as powder faild them, but alas,
not poison! so now with policy they prevaile in all things: how long
the holy one of Israell knoweth, but certainely, our sinnes are the
causes of their domineering and of our carelesse drouping.
In this Desart way, I beheld many singular Monuments, and ruinous
Castles, whose names I knew not, because I had an ignorant guide:
But this I remember, amongst these rockes my belly was pinched, and
wearied was my body, with the climbing of fastidious mountaines, which
bred no small griefe to my breast. Yet notwithstanding of my distresse,
the rememberance of these sweet seasoned Songs of Arcadian Sheepheards
which pregnant Poets have so well penned, did recreate my fatigated
corps with many sugred suppositions. These sterile bounds being past,
we entred in the Easterne plaine of Morea, called aunciently Sparta,
where that sometimes famous Citty of Lacedemon flourished, but now
sacked, and the lumpes of ruines and memory onely remaines. Marching
thus, we left Modena and Napoli on our right hand, toward the sea side,
and on the sixt day at night, we pitched our tents in the disinhabited
villages of Argo and Micene, from the which unhappy Helen was ravished.
[The rapt of Helen.] This cursed custome of base prostitution,
is become so frequent, that the greater sort of her mercenary sexe,
following her footsteps, have out-gone her in their loathsom journeies
of Libidinous wayes: she being of such an infinite and voluptuous
crew, the arch mistresse and ring-leader to destruction, did invite
my Muse to inveigh against her lascivious immodesty, as the inordinate
patterne of all willing and licentious rapts:
I would thy beauty (fairest of all Dames)
Had never caus'd the jealous Greekes to move
Thy eyes from Greece, to Ilion cast flames,
And burnt that Trojan, with adulterate love:
He captive like, thy mercy came to prove
And thou divorc'd, was ravish'd with a toy:
He swore faire Helen was his dearest dove
And thou a Paris swore for to enjoy:
Mourne may the ghosts, of sometimes stately Troy.
And curse that day, thou saw the Phirigian coast:
Thy lecherous lust, did Priams pride destroy,
And many thousands, for thy sake were lost.
Was't nature, fortune, fancy, beauty, birth,
That cros'd thee so, to be a crosse on earth.
Some of thy sexe, baptiz'd with thy curst name,
Crown'd with thy fate, are partners in thy shame.
Helens are snakes, which breeds their lovers paine,
The maps of malice, murther and disdaine:
Helens are gulfes, whence streames of blood do flow
Rapine, deceit, treason, and overthrow:
Helens are whoores, whiles in a Virgin Maske,
They sucke from Pluto sterne Proserpines taske:
Curst be thou Hell, for hellish Helens sakes,
Still crost and curst, be they, that trust such snakes.
Here in Argos I had the ground to be a pillow, and the
world-wide-fields to be a chamber, the whirling windy-skies, to
be a roofe to my Winter-blasted lodging, and the humide vapours of
cold Nocturna, to accompany the unwished-for-bed of my repose. What
shall I say then, the solid, and sad man, is not troubled with the
floods and ebbes of Fortune, the ill imployed power of greatnesse,
nor the fluctuary motions of the humerous multitude; or at least, if
he be sensible of his owne, or their irregularities, or confusions,
yet his thoughts are not written in his face, his countenance is not
significant, nor his miseries further seene than in his owne private
suffering; whereas the face and disposition of the feeble one, ever
resembleth his last thoughts, and upon every touch, or taste of that
which is displeasant and followes not the streames of his appetite,
his countenance deformeth it selfe, and like the Moone, is in as many
changes as his fortune, but the noble resolution must follow Æneas
advice in all his adventures;
Per varios casus, per tot discrimina rerum,
Tendimus in latium, &c.
By diverse wayes, and dangers great we mind,
To visit Latium, and Latinus kind.
In all this countrey of Greece I could finde nothing, to answer the
famous relations, given by auncient Authors, of the excellency of
that land, but the name onely; the barbarousnesse of Turkes and Time,
having defaced all the Monuments of Antiquity: No shew or honour,
no habitation of men in an honest fashion, nor possessours of the
Countrey in a Principality. But rather prisoners shut up in prisons,
or addicted slaves to cruell and tyrannicall Maisters: So deformed is
the state of that once worthy Realme, and so miserable is the burthen
of that afflicted people: which, and the apparance of that permanency,
grieved my heart to behold the sinister working of blind Fortune,
which alwayes plungeth the most renowned Champions, and their memory,
in the profoundest pit of all extremities and oblivion.
[Greeke Champions.] Let the Ghosts of that Theban Epaminondas, that
Mirmidonian Phillip, & these Epirean worthies, Pyrhus and Scanderberg,
be witnesses hereto; but especially, that Macedonian Alexander,
whose fortunes ever followed him, rather than fled him til his last
dissolution; wherein I may say his greatnesse rose; Like to a mighty
and huge Oke, being cled with the exuvials, and Trophees of enemies
fenced with an army of boughes garnished with a coat of barke as
hard as Steele; despising the force and power of the Winds, as being
onely able to dally with the leaves, and not to weaken the roote:
But the Northerne wind, that strong Champion of the airy Region,
secretly lurking in the vault of some hollow cloude, doth first
murmure at this aspiring Oke, and then striketh his Crest with some
greater strength; and lastly, with the deepest breath of his Lungs,
doth blow up the roote: Even so was it with Alexander, who from a
stripling came to be a Cedar, and from the sorrow of no more worlds,
was soone cut off from the world he was into: For destiny is no mans
drudge, and death is every mans conquerour, matching the Scepter, with
the Spade, and the crowned Prince with the praislesse Peasant: And in
a word, there was never any to whom fortune did sooner approach, nor
never any from whom she did more suddenly flee, then from Alexander,
leaving him a cleare mirrour of the worlds inconstancy.
Now as concerning the government of Greece, tearmd by the Turkes,
Rum Ili, that is, the Romane Country: [The Beglerbeg of Greece.] It
is ruled by a Beglerbeg, or Bassa, this word Beglerbeg imports,
Lord of Lords, in regard of the Sanzacks, or Subbassaes under them,
who also are tearmed Lords; which is a barbarous pride in an ambitious
style: This Beglerbeg of Greece, retaineth his residence at Sophia the
Metropole of Bulgaria, formerly Dacia, and is the greatest Commaunder
of all other Bassaes in the Turkish Provinces of Europe.
All other Beglerbegs are changed every third yeare, or continued
according to the Imperiall pleasure, neither may they returne from
their station during this time. But this Bassa of Greece, keepeth
his government for his life-time, and remaineth most at Court: He
reserveth under his commaund, fourty thousand Timariots or Horsemen;
led under the conduct of twenty two Sanzacks, or Judges deputies of
Jurisdictions; to wit, two in Albania, at the Townes Iscodera, and
Ancolina: two in Achaia, at Delvina, and Albassan: three in Thessalia,
at Priasim, Salonica, and Trichola: two in Sparta, at Misietra and
Paleopatra: three in Macedonia, at Carmona, Selistria, and Giastandila:
one in Moldavia, at Acheranma: in Bulgaria, one at Sophia: in Thracia,
one at Viazza: in Epyre, one at Ducagina: in Ætolia, one at Joanina:
in Peleponesus, one at Peterasso: the rest are Usopia, Nycopolis,
Corinth, and Bandera towards the black-sea, and to the Northward of
Danubio, at his kissing the Euxine waves: This much for the Beglerbeg
ship of Greece, and the Provinces thereunto adjoyning.
Departing from Argos, upon the seventh day we arrived at
[Athens.] Athens: Athens is still inhabited, standing in the East part
of Peloponnesus, neere to the frontiers of Macedon, or Thessaly by the
Sea side. It was first called Cecropia: Of one Cecrops the first King
thereof, who first founded it, Anno Mundi, 2409. it was after mightily
inlarged by Theseus, and well provided with good lawes by Solon,
and lastly Athens of Minerva: In whose honour for a long time were
celebrate solemne playes, called Panathanaia: Athens is now termed
Salenos, and was once the shrill sounding Trumpet of Mars, yeelding
more valiant Captaines and Commanders then any City in the World,
Rome excepted: It was a custome here, that when any man was growne
too wealthy or potent, he was banished thence for ten yeares: This
exile was intituled Ostracisme, because his name who was abandoned
was written in an Oyster-shell: Great combustions and mutinies have
happened betweene Lacedemon, and Athens; at last it was sacked by
Lysander, and her Virgin body prostituted to the lust of 30. insulting
Tyrants; not long after whose expulsion, it was utterly subdued by
the Macedonians.
And in a word Athens being stayned with intestine blood-sheds, and
grievously discontented with the death of her children; her babes
were brought forth, for the sword to glut upon, the bodies of her
auncients were made as Pavements to walke upon, her matrones became
a prey and prise to every Ravisher, and her Priests and Sacrificers
were slaine before the gates of their Temples.
This City was the Mother & Well-spring of all liberall Arts and
Sciences; and the great Cisterne of Europe, whence flowed so many
Conduit pipes of learning all where, but now altogether decayed: The
circuit of old Athens hath beene according to the fundamentall walles
yet extant about sixe Italian miles, but now of no great quantity, nor
many dwelling houses therein; being within two hundreth fire houses,
having a Castle which formerly was the Temple of Minerva. They have
abundance of all things, requisite for the sustenance of humane life,
of which I had no small proofe: For these Athenians or Greekes,
exceeding kindly banqueted me foure dayes, and furnish't me with
necessary provision for my voyage to Creta. And also transported me
by sea in a Brigandine freely, and on their owne charges to Serigo,
being 44. miles distant.
After my redounded thankes, they having returned, the contemplation
on their courtesies, brought me in rememberance, how curious the old
Athenians were to heare of forraine newes, & with what great regard
& estimation they honoured travellers, of which as yet, they are no
wayes defective.
[Serigo.] Serigo is an Iland in the sea Cretico: It was aunciently
called Cytherea, of Cithero the sonne of Phænise: And of Aristotle
Porphyris, or Schotera, in respect of the fine Marble that is got
there: It is of circuit threescore miles having but one Castle called
Capsallo, which is kept by a Venetian Captaine: here it is sayd that
Venus did first inhabit, and I saw the ruines of her demolished Temple,
on the side of a mountaine yet extant.
A little more downeward below this old adored Temple of Venus, are
the relickes of that Palace, wherein Menalaus did dwell, who was
King of Sparta, and Lord of this Ile. The Greekes of the Ile told me
there were wild Asses there, who had a stone in their heads, which
was a soveraigne remedy for the Falling sicknesse, and good to make
a woman be quickly delivered of her birth. I made afterward deeper
enquiry for it, to have either seene or bought it, but for my life
I could never attaine to any perfect knowledge thereof.
In the time of my abode, at the Village of Capsalo (being a haven for
small barkes, and situate below the Castle) the Captaine of that same
Fortresse [A Priest slaine in a Bordell.] kild a Seminary Priest,
whom he had found in the night with his whoore in a Brothel-house:
for the which sacrilegious murther, the Governour of the Ile deposed
the Captaine, and banished him, causing a boate to be prepared to send
him to Creta. O! if all the Priests which doe commit incest, adultery,
and fornication (yea, and worse, Il peccato carnale contra natura)
were thus handled and severely rewarded; what a sea of Sodomiticall
irreligious blood would overflow the halfe of Europe, to staine the
spotted colour of that Romane Beast. Truely, and yet more, these
lascivious Friars are the very Epicures, or off-scourings of the
earth; for how oft have I heard them say one to another? Allegre,
allegre, mio caro fratello, chi ben mangia, ben beve, &c. That is,
Be cheerefull, be cheerefull, deare brother, he that eateth well,
drinketh well, he that drinketh well, sleepeth well, he that sleepeth
well, sinneth not, and he that sinneth not, goeth straight through
Purgatory to Paradize. This is all the care of their living, making
their tongues to utter what their hearts do thus prophanely thinke,
Ede, bibe, dormi, post mortem nulla voluptas, and as it is well
observed of this monachall and licentious life:
Non male sunt Monachis, grato indita nomina patrum,
Cum numerent natos, hic & ubique suos.
Injustly, no! Monkes be cal'd Fathers, Why?
Their bastards swarme, as thicke, as Starres in Sky.
In the aforesayd boat I also imbarked with the Captaine, and sailed
by the little Isoletta of Serigota: Leaving Capo di Spada on our left
hand, we arrived at Carabusa with extreme fortune, being fiercely
persued by three Turkish Galleots. Betweene Serigo and Carabusa we
had seven score and twelve miles of dangerous and combustious seas.
THE THIRD PART
Now Creta comes, the Mediterren Queene,
To my sought view, where golden Ida's seene:
Cut with the Labrinth of th' old Minatoure,
Thence tracd I all, the Syclads fifty foure:
With Nigropont and Thessaly amaine,
Macedon, Pernassus, the Achaian plaine;
Tenedos and Troy, long Phrigia sixt,
Sestos, Abidos, Adrianopole vext;
Colchis, falne Thebes, Hellespont, and more,
Constantinople, earths best soveraigne glore:
The Euxine sea, and Pompeys pillar prest,
In Peru then, Ile take my Winters rest.
The Ile of Candy formerly called Creta, hath to the North the Ægean
sea, to the West the sea Ionian; to the South the Libique sea, and to
the East, the Carpathian sea: It lieth midway twixt Achaia in Greece
and Cyrene in Affrick, not being distant from the one, nor from the
other, above two dayes sayling: It is a most famous and auncient
Kingdome: By moderne Writers, it is called Queene of [The antiquity
of Candy.] the Iles Mediterrene: It had of olde an hundreth Citties,
whereof it had the name Hecatompolis, but now onely foure, Candia,
Canea, Rethimos, and Scythia, the rest are but Villages and Bourges. It
is of length, to wit, from Capo Ermico in the West, called by Pliny,
Frons arietis, and Capo Salomone in the East, two hundreth and forty
Miles, large threescore, and of circuit sixe hundreth and fifty miles.
This is the chiefe Dominion, belonging to the Venetian Reipublique:
In every one of these foure Citties, there is a Governour, and
two Counsellors, sent from Venice every two yeares. The Countrey is
divided into foure parts, under the jurisdiction of the foure Citties,
for the better administration of Justice: and they have a Generall,
who commonly remaineth in the Citty of Candy (like to a Viceroy) who
deposeth, or imposeth Magistrates, Captaines, Souldiers, Officers,
and others whatsoever, in the behalfe of Saint Marke or Duke of
Venice. The Venetians detaine continually a strong guard, divided in
Companies, Squadrons, and Garrisons, in the Citties and Fortresses
of the Iland: which do extend to the number of 12000. Souldiers,
kept, not onely for the incursion of Turks, but also for feare of
the Creets or Inhabitants, who would rather (if they could) render
to the Turke, then to live under the subjection of Venice, thinking
thereby to have more liberty, & lesse taxed under the Infidell,
then now they are under the Christian.
This Ile produceth the best Malvasy, Muscadine and Leaticke wines,
that are in the whole Universe. It yeeldeth Orenges, Lemmons, Mellons,
Cytrons, Grenadiers, Adams Apples, Raisins, Olives, Dates, Hony, Sugar,
Vua di tre volte, and all other kindes of fruite in abundance. But
the most part of the Cornes are brought yearely from Archipelago
and Greece. [The Rivers of Candy.] The chiefe Rivers are Cataracho,
Melipotomos, Escasino; being all of them shallow and discommodious
for shipping, in respect of their short courses, and rocky passages:
And the principall Citties of olde, were Gnassus, where Minos kept
his Court, 2. Cortina, 3. Aphra and Cydonia. This Countrey was by
Marcellus made subject to the Romanes: It was afterward given by
Baldwin Earle of Flanders, the first Latin Emperor of Constantinople
to Boniface of Montserrat, who sold it, Anno 1194. to the Venetians.
This much of the Ile in generall; and now in respect of my travelling
two times through the bounds of the whole Kingdome, which was never
before atchieved by any Traveller in Christendome; I will as briefly
as I can in particular, relate a few of these miseries indured by me
in this Land, with the nature & quality of the people.
This aforesaid Carabusa, is the principall Fortresse of Creta, being
of it selfe invincible, and is not unlike to the Castle of Dunbertan,
which standeth at the mouth of Clyd; upon which River [The old and
famous City of Lanerke.] the auncient City of Lanerke is situated:
For this Fort is environed with a Rocke higher then the wals,
and joyneth close with Capo Ermico: having learned of the theevish
way I had to Canea, I advised to put my mony in exchange, which the
Captaine of that strength very curteously performed; and would also
have diswaded me from my purpose, but I by no perswasion of him would
stay. From thence departing, all alone, scarcely was I advanced twelve
miles in my way, when I was beset on the skirt of a Rocky Mountaine;
with three Greeke murdering Renegadoes, and an Italian Bandido: who
laying hands on me, beate me most cruelly, robbed me of all my clothes,
and stripped me naked, threatning me with many grievous speeches.
At last the respective Italian, perceiving I was a stranger, and could
not speake the Cretan tongue, began to aske me in his owne language,
where was my money? to whom I soberly answered, I had no more then
he saw, which was fourescore Bagantines: which scarcely amounted to
two groats English: But he not giving credit to these words, searched
all my clothes and Budgeto, yet found nothing except my linnen, and
Letters of recommendations I had from divers Princes of Christendome,
especially the Duke of Venice, whose subjects they were, if they had
beene lawfull subjects: Which when he saw, did move him to compassion,
and earnestly entreated the other three theeves to grant me mercy,
and to save my life: [A happy deliverance.] A long deliberation
being ended, they restored backe againe my Pilgrimes clothes, and
Letters, but my blew gowne and Bagantines they kept: Such also was
their theevish courtesie toward me, that for my better safegard in
the way, they gave me a stamped piece of clay, as a token to shew
any of their companions, if I encountred with any of them; for they
were about twenty Rascalles of a confederate band, that lay in this
desart passage.
Leaving them with many counterfeit thankes, I travelled that day
seaven and thirty miles, and at night attained to the unhappy Village
of Pickehorno: where I could have neither meate, drinke, lodging,
nor any refreshment to my wearied body. These desperate Candiots
thronged about me, gazing (as though astonished) to see me both
want company, and their Language, and by their cruell lookes, they
seemed to be a barbarous and uncivill people: [Cruell Candiots.] For
all these High-landers of Candy, are tyrannicall, blood-thirsty,
and deceitfull. The consideration of which and the appearance of my
death, signed to me secretly by a pittifull woman, made me to shun
their villany in stealing forth from them in the darke night, and
privately sought for a secure place of repose in a umbragious Cave
by the Sea side, where I lay till morning with a fearefull heart,
a crased body, a thirstie stomacke, and a hungry belly.
Upon the appearing of the next Aurora, and when the welkin, had
put aside the vizard of the night, the Starres being coverd, and
the earth discoverd by the Sunne; I imbraced my unknowne way, and
about midday came to Canea: [Invinceable Canea.] Canea is the second
Citie of Creete, called aunciently Cydon, being exceeding populous,
well walled, and fortified with Bulwarkes: It hath a large Castle,
containing ninety seaven Pallaces, in which the Rector and other
Venetian Gentlemen dwell. There lye continually in it seaven Companies
of Souldiers who keepe Centinell on the walles, guarde the gates
and Market places of the Citie: Neither in this Towne nor Candia,
may any Countrey Peasant enter with weapons (especially Harquebuzes)
for that conceived feare they have of Treason. Truely this City may
equall in strength, either Zara in Dalmatia, or Luka, or Ligorne,
both in Tuscana, or matchlesse Palma in Friuly: for these five Cities
are so strong, that in all my Travells I never saw them matched. They
are all well provided with abundance of Artilery, and all necessary
things for their defence, especially Luka, which continually reserves
in store provision of victuals for twelve yeares siege.
In my first abode in Canea, being a fortnight, there came 6. Gallies
from Venice, upon one of which there was a young French Gentleman,
a Protestant, borne neare Monpeillier in Langadocke; who being by
chance in company with other foure of his Countrey-men in Venice,
one of them killed a young Noble Venetian, about the quarrell of a
Courtezan: Whereupon they flying to the French Ambassadours house,
the rest escaped, and he onely apprehended by a fall in his flight,
was afterward condemned by the Senatours to the Galleys induring
life. Now the Galleys lying here sixe dayes, he got leave of the
Captaine to come a shoare with a Keeper, when he would, carrying an
yron bolt on his legge: In which time we falling in acquaintance,
he complained heavily of his hard fortune, and how because he was a
Protestant, (besides his slavery) he was severely abused in the Galley;
[A Religious comfort.] sighing forth these words with teares, Lord have
mercy upon me, and graunt me patience, for neither friends, nor money
can redeeme me: At which expression I was both glad and sorrowfull,
the one moving my soule to exult in joy for his Religion: the other,
for his misfortunes, working a Christian condolement for intolerable
affliction: For I was in Venice, at that same time when this accident
fell out, yet would not tell him so much: But pondering seriously
his lamentable distresse, I secretly advised him the manner how he
might escape, and how farre I would hazard the liberty of my life
for his deliverance, desiring him to come a shoare earely the next
morning. Meane while I went to an old Greekish woman, with whom I was
friendly inward, for she was my Landresse; and reciting to her the
whole businesse, she willingly condiscended to lend me an old gowne,
and a blacke vaile for his disguisement. The time come, and we met,
the matter was difficult to shake off the Keeper; but such was my
plot, I did invite him to the Wine, where after tractall discourses,
and deepe draughts of Leatick, reason failing, sleepe overcame his
sences. Whereupon conducting my friend to the appointed place,
I disburdened him of his Irons, clothed him in a female habite,
and sent him out before me, conducted by the Greekish woman: And
when securely past both Guards and Gate, I followed, carrying with
me his clothes: where, when accoasting him by a field of Olives,
and the other returned backe, we speedily crossed the vale of Suda,
and interchanging his apparrell, I directed him the way over [A place
of refuge.] the Mountaines to a Greekish convent on the South side
of the land, a place of safeguard, called commonly the Monastery of
refuge; where he would kindly be entertained, till either the Galleys,
or men of Warre of Malta arrived: It being a custome at their going,
or comming from the Levante to touch here, to relieve and carry
away distressed men: This is a place whereunto Bandits, men slayers,
and robbers repaire for reliefe.
And now many joyfull thanks from him redounded, I returned keeping
the high way, where incontinent I encountred two English Souldiers,
John Smith, and Thomas Hargrave, comming of purpose to informe me of an
eminent danger, shewing me that all the Officers of the Galleys, with
a number of Souldiers were in searching the City, and hunting all over
the fields for me: After which relation, consulting with them, what
way I could come to the Italian Monastery Saint Salvator, for there
I lay; (the vulgar Towne affording neither lodging nor beds). They
answered me, they would venture their lives for my liberty, and I
should enter at the Easterne (the least frequented) gate of the City,
where three other English men were that day on guard, for so there were
five of them here in Garison: Where, when we came, the other English
accompanied with eight French souldiers their familiars, came along
with us also: And having past the Market place, and neere my lodging,
foure Officers and sixe Galley souldiers, runne to lay hands on me:
whereat the English and French unsheathing their Swords, valiantly
resisted their fury, and deadly wounded two of the Officers: Meane
while fresh supply comming from the Galleys, John Smith runne along
with me to the Monastery, leaving the rest at pell mell, to intercept
their following: At last the Captaines of the Garrison approaching
the tumult, relieved their owne Souldiers, and drove backe the other
to the Galleys. A little thereafter the Generall of the Galleys
come to the Monastery, and examined me concerning the fugitive, but
I cleering my selfe so, and quenching the least suspition he might
conceive (notwithstanding of mine accusers) hee could lay nothing to
my charge: howsoever it was, he seemed somewhat favourable; partly,
because I had the Duke of Venice his Pasport, partly, because of mine
intended voyage to Jerusalem; partly, because he was a great favourer
of the French Nation: and partly because he could not mend himselfe,
in regard of my shelter, and the Governours favour: yet neverthelesse,
I detained my selfe under [Cloysters are safeguards.] safeguard of
the Cloyster, untill the Galleys were gone.
Being here disappointed of transportation to Archipelago, I advised
to visit Candy: and in my way I past by the large Haven of Suda,
which hath no Towne or Village, save onely a Castle, situated on a
Rocke in the Sea, at the entry of the Bay: the bounds of that Harbour
may receive at one time above two thousand Shippes and Galleys,
and is the onely Key of the Iland: for the which place, the King of
Spaine hath oft offered an infinite deale of money to the Venetians,
whereby his Navy which sometimes resort in the Levante, might have
accesse and reliefe; but they would never graunt him his request;
which policy of his was onely to have surprized the Kingdome.
South-west from this famous harbour, lieth a pleasant plaine surnamed
[The pleasant valley of Suda.] the Valley of Suda: It is twenty Italian
Miles long, and two of breadth: And I remember, or I discended to
crosse the Valley, and passe the haven, me thought the whole planure
resembled to me a greene sea; and that was onely by reason of infinite
Olive trees grew there, whose boughes and leaves over-toppe all
other fructiferous trees in that plaine: The Villages for losse of
ground are all built on the skirts of Rockes, upon the South side of
the Valley; yea, and so difficile to climbe them, and so dangerous
to dwell in them, that me thought their lives were in like perill,
as he who was adjoyned to sit under the poynt of a two handed sword,
and it hanging by the haire of a horse tayle.
Trust me, I told along these Rockes at one time, and within my sight,
some 67. Villages; but when I entred the valley, I could not find a
foote of ground unmanured, save a narrow passing way wherein I was:
The Olives, Pomgranets, Dates, Figges, Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomi del
Adamo growing all through other: And at the rootes of which trees grew
Wheate, Malvasie, Muscadine, Leaticke Wines, Grenadiers, Carnobiers,
Mellones, and all other sorts of fruites and hearbes, the earth can
yeeld to man; that for beauty, pleasure, and profit it may easily be
surnamed, the garden of the whole Universe: being the goodliest plot,
the Diamond sparke, and the Honny spot of all Candy: There is no land
more temperate for ayre, for it hath a double spring-tyde; no soyle
more fertile, and therefore it is called the Combat of Bachus and
Ceres; nor region or valley more hospitable, in regard of the sea,
having such a noble haven cut through its bosome, being as it were
the very resting place of Neptune.
Upon the third dayes journey from Canea, I came to Rethimos; This
City is somewhat ruinous, and unwalled, but the Citizens have newly
builded a strong Fortresse, but rather done by the State of Venice,
which defendeth them from the invasion of Pyrats: It standeth by
the sea side, and in the yeare 1597. It was miserably sacked, and
burned with Turkes. Continuing my voyage, I passed along the skirt of
[Mount Ida.] Mount Ida, accompanied with Greekes, who could speake the
Italian tongue, on which, first they shewed me the cave of King Minos,
but some hold it to be the Sepulcher of Jupiter. That Groto was of
length eighty paces, and eight large: This Minos was sayd to be the
brother of Radamanthus, and Sarpedon; who, after their succession to
the Kingdome, established such æquitable lawes, that by Poets they
are feigned with Æacus to be the Judges of Hell. I saw also there,
the place where Jupiter (as they say) was nourished by Amalthes,
which by Greekes is recited, as well as Latine Poets.
Thirdly, they shewed me the Temple of Saturne, which is a worke
to be admired, of such Antiquity, and as yet undecayed; who
(say they) was the first King that inhabited there, and Father
to Jupiter. And neare to it is the demolished Temple of Matelia,
having this superscription above the doore, yet to be seene: Make
cleane your feete, wash your hands and enter. Fourthly, I saw the
entry into the [Dedalus Laborinth.] Laborinth of Dedalus, which I
would gladly have better viewed, but because we had no Candle-light,
we durst not enter: for there are many hollow places within it:
so that if a man stumble, or fall, he can hardly be rescued: It is
cut forth with many intricating wayes, on the face of a little hill,
joyning with Mount Ida, having many doores and pillars. Here it was
where Theseus by the helpe of Ariadne the daughter of King Minos,
taking a bottome of threed, and tying the one end at the first doore,
did enter and slay the Minotaurus, who was included there by Dedalus:
This Minotaure is sayd to have bene begot by the lewd and luxurious
Pasiphae, who doted on a white Bull.
Mount Ida is the highest Mountaine in Creta, and by the computation of
Shepheards feete, amounteth to sixe miles of height: It is over-clad
even to the toppe with Cypre trees, and good store of medicinable
hearbes: insomuch that the beasts which feede thereupon, have their
teeth gilded, like to the colour of Gold: Mount Ida, of old was called
Phelorita, by some Cadussa, but modernely Madura: It is sayd by some
Historians, that no venemous animall can live in this Ile; but I saw
the contrary: [Historian errours.] For I kild on a Sunday morning hard
by the Sea-side, and within two miles of Rethimos, two Serpents and a
Viper: One of which Serpents, was above a yard and halfe in length,
for they being all three rolling within the coverture of the dry
sands, my right legge was almost in their reverence before I remarked
the danger: Wherefore many build upon false reports, but experience
teacheth men the trueth.
Some others also Historize, that if a Woman here, bite a man any
thing hard, he will never recover: and that there is an hearbe called
Allimos in this Iland, which if one chaw in his mouth, he shall not
feele hunger for foure and twenty howres: all which are meere fabulous,
such is the darkenesse of cloudy inventions.
Descending from this Mountaine, I entred in a faire plaine, beautified
with many Villages; in one of which, I found a Grecian Bishop,
who kindly presented me with grapes of Malvasie, and other things,
for it was in the time of their vintage. To carry these things he
had given me, he caused to make ready an Asse, and a Servant, who
went with me to Candy, which was more then fifteene miles from his
house. True it is, that the best sort of Greekes, in visiting other,
doe not use to come empty handed, neither will they suffer a stranger
to depart without both gifts and convoy.
I remember along this sassinous and marine passage, I found three
fountaines gushing forth of a Rocke, each one within a yard of other,
having three sundry tasts: the first water was exceeding light, and
sweet; the middle or second, marvelous sowre and heavy: the third was
bitter and extraordinary salt: so that in so short bounds so great
difference, I never found before, nor afterward.
[The City of Candy.] Candy is distant from Canea a hundreth miles,
Rethimos being halfe way betwixt both: so is Candy halfe way in the
same measure, twixt Rethimos and Scythia, and Canea the like twixt
Rethimos and Carabusa, being in all 200. miles.
Candy is a large and famous City, formerly called Matium, situated
on a plaine by the sea side, having a goodly Haven for shippes, and
a faire Arsenall wherein are 36. Gallies: It is exceeding strong,
and dayly guarded with 2000. Souldiers, and the walles in compasse
are about three leagues.
In this time there was no Viceroy, the former being newly dead, and
the place vacant, the Souldiers kept a bloody quarter among themselves,
or against any whomsoever their malignity was intended, for in all the
time I stayed there being ten dayes, it was nothing to see every day
foure or five men killed in the streetes: neither could the Rector, nor
the Captaines helpe it, so tumultuous were the disordered Souldiers,
and the occasions of revenge and quarrellings so influent. This
commonly they practise in every such like vacation, which otherwise,
they durst never attempt without death, and severe punishment; and
truely me thought it was as barbarous a governed place for the time,
as ever I saw in the world: For hardly could I save my owne life free
from their dangers, in the which I was twice miserably involved.
[Distances from Candy.] Candy is distant from Venice 1300. miles, from
Constantinople 700. from Famagusta in Cyprus, 600. from Alexandria
in Ægypt, 500. from Tripoli in Siria 700. from Naples 900. from
Malta 500. from Smyrna, in Carmania of Natolia 400. and from the
Citty of Jerusalem, 900. miles. The Candeots through all the Iland,
make muster every eight day, before the Serjant-majors, or Officers
of the Generall, and are well provided with all sorts of Armour; yea,
and the most valerous people that hight the name of Greekes. It was
told me by the Rector of Candy, that they may raise in Armes of the
Inhabitants (not reckoning the Garrisons) above sixty thousand men,
all able for warres, with 54. Gallies, and 24. Galleots for the sea.
In all my travels through this Realme, I never could see a Greeke
come forth of his house unarmed: and after such a martiall manner,
that on his head he weareth a bare steele cap, a bow in his hand,
a long sword by his side, a broad Ponard overthwart his belly,
and a round Target hanging at his girdle. They are not costly in
apparell, for they weare but linnen cloathes, and use no shooes but
bootes of white leather, to keepe their legges in the fields from the
prickes of a kind of Thistle, wherewith the Countrey is overcharged
like unto little bushes or short shrubs which are marvelous sharpe,
and offensive unto the inhabitants, whereof, often a day to my great
harme, I found their bloody smart: The women generally weare linnen
breaches as men do, and bootes after the same manner, and their linnen
coates no longer then the middle of their thighes, and are insatiably
inclined to Venery, such is the nature of the soyle and climate. The
[Creets turnd Critticks.] auncient Cretans were such notable lears,
that the heathen Poet Epimenides, yea, and the Apostle Paul in his
Epistle to Titus, did tearme them to have beene ever liers, evill
beasts, and slow bellies: whence sprung these proverbs, as Cretense
mendacium, & cretisandum est cum cretensibus.
The Candiots are excellent good Archers, surpassing all the Orientall
people therein, couragious and valiant upon the Sea, as in former
times they were; and they are naturally inclined to singing: so that
commonly after meat, Man, Wife, and Child of each family, will for
the space of an houre, sing with such a harmony, as is wonderfull
melodious to the hearer; yea, and they cannot forgoe the custome of it.
Their Harvest is our Spring: for they manure the ground, and sow
the seed in October, which is reaped in March, and Aprill. Being
frustrate of my intention at Candy, I was forced to returne to Canea
the same way I went: when come, I was exceeding merry with my old
friends the English-men: Meane-while there arrived from Tunnis in
Barbary, [An English runagate.] an English Runagate named Wolson,
bound for the Rhodes: where after short acquaintance with his natives,
and understanding what I was, he imparted these words, I have had my
elder brother, sayd he, the Maister (or Captaine) of a ship, slaine at
Burnt-Iland in Scotland by one called Keere; and notwithstanding he
was beheaded, I have long since sworne to be revenged of my brothers
death, on the first Scotsman I ever saw or met, and my designe is,
to stob him with a knife this night, as he goeth late home to his
lodging desiring their assistance: But Smith, Hargrave, and Horsfeild
refused, yet Cooke and Rollands yeelded. Meane-while Smith knowing
where I used sometimes to diet, found me at supper in a Sutlers,
a souldiers house, where acquainting me with this plot, the hoste,
he, and three Italian souldiers conveighed me to my bed, passing
by the arch-villaine, and his confederats, where he was prepared
for the mischiefe: which when he saw his treachery was discovered,
he fled away, & was seene no more here.
Remarking the fidelity and kindnesse that Smith had twice shewen me,
first in freeing me from the danger of galley-slavery, and now in
saving my life, I advised to doe him a good deed in some part of
acquittance, and thus it was: [Smith relieved from long bondage.] At
his first comming to Venice, he was taken up as a souldier for Candy:
where, when transported, within a small time he found the Captaines
promise and performance different, which enforced him at the beginning
to borrow a little money of his Lieutenant: the five yeares of their
abode expired, and fresh Companies come from Venice to exhibit the
charge, Smith not being able to discharge his debt, was turned over
to the new Captaine for five yeares more, who payed the old Captaine
his mony; and his time also worne out, the third Captaine came,
where likewise he was put in his hands serving him five yeares longer.
Thus having served three Captaines fifteene yeares, and never
likely able (for a small trifle) to attaine his liberty, I went to
the Captaine and payed his debt, obtaining also of the Rector his
licence to depart; and the allowance of the State for his passage,
which was Wine and Biscot-bread: Thereafter: I imbarked him for
Venice in a Flemish ship, the Maister being a Scotsman, John Allen
borne in Glasgow, and dwelt at Middleborough in Zeland, his debt was
onely forty eight shillings starling.
Here I stayed in Canea twenty five dayes before I could get passage
for the Arch Ilands, being purposed for Constantinople; but gladly
would not have left the Monastary of these foure Friars, with whom I
was lodged, if it had not beene for my designes; in regard of their
great cheere and deepe draughts of Malvasey I received hourely,
and oftentimes against my will: Every night after supper, the
Friars forced me to dance with them, either one gagliard or other:
[Drunken Fryers.] Their Musicke in the end was sound drunkennesse,
and their Syncopa turnd to spew up all, and their bed converted to a
boord, or else the hard floore, for these beastly swine, were nightly
so full, that they had never power to goe to their owne chambers,
but where they fell, there they lay till the morne: the cloyster it
selfe had two faire Courts, the least of which might have lodged any
King of Europe: The Church was little, and among the foure Friars,
there was but one Masse-Priest, being a Greeke borne and turn'd to the
Roman faction: his new name was Pattarras Matecarras, Pater Libenter,
or Father of free will, indeed a right name for so sottish a fellow,
for he was so free of his stomacke to receive in strong liquor, that
for the space of twenty dayes of my being there, I never saw him,
nor any one of the other three truely sober. Many odde merriments
and jests have I observed of these Friars of Candie, but time will
not suffer me to relate them, onely remitting the rest to my privat
discourse, a figge for their folly.
I travelled on foot in this Ile more then foure hundred miles, and upon
the fifty eight day after my first comming to Carabusa, I imbarked in
a Fisher-boat that belonged to Milo, being a hundred miles distant,
which had beene violently driven thither with stormy weather.
And in our passing thither, we were in danger to be over-runne two
severall times, with two huge broken Seas, which twice covered the
body of the closse boat: yet with extreame fortune we arrived at Milo
in a bay of the East corner of the Ile, being about St. Andrewes day,
where the poore Greeks tooke me up to their Village, two miles distant
from this Creeke, and I abode with them foure dayes.
[Milo.] Milo was called by Aristotle, Melada, and by others,
Mimalida, Melos: And lastly Milo; because of the fine mil-stones
that are got there, which are transported to Constantinople, Greece,
and Natolia. This Ile is one of the Iles Cyclades, or Sporades, but
more commonly Archipelago, or the Arch-Ilands, and standeth in the
beginning of the Ægean sea: The Inhabitants are Greekes, but slaves
to the Turke, and so are all the fifty foure Iles of the Cyclades,
save onely Tino, which holdeth of the Venetians.
From Milo I came to Zephano in a small boat, an Iland of circuit about
twenty miles, and ten miles distant from Milo: The Inhabitants are
poore, yet kind people: There are an infinite number of Partridges
within this Ile, of a reddish colour, and bigger then ours in
Brittaine: They are wilde, and onely killed by small shot; but I have
seene in other Ilands flockes of them feeding in the fields, and
usually kept by children: Some others I have seene in the streetes
of Villages, without any keeper, even as our Hennes doe with us. I
saw fountaines here, that naturally yeeld fine Oyle, which is the
greatest advantage the Ilanders have.
[Zephano.] Zephano did once produce the Calamita, and was renowned
for the fine Mines of Gold and Silver, of which now it is altogether
desolate: There is also fine Sulphur here, and exceeding good Marble:
from whence Lucullus was the first that transported it to Rome: There
is a certaine ground in this Ile, where it is sayd, that if any take
it away, or digge deepe holes, the earth of it selfe in a small time
will surcrease without any ayde of man. East from Milo and Zephano,
lye the Iles Policandro, and Christiana, formerly Laguso, Sicandro;
and Sasurnino, anciently Calistha, famous for the birth of the Poet
Calimachus.
From thence I imbarked, and arrived at Angusa in [Parir.] Parir:
This Ile is forty miles long, and sixe miles broad: being plentifull
enough in all necessary things for the use of man: It was aunciently
called Demetriado, whose length lieth South-west, and North-East:
And hard by the high Mountaine of Camphasia, neere to Angusa, on
a faire Valley standeth the auncient Temple of Venus, never a whit
decayed to this day: This Ile was given to the Venetians by Henry the
Constantinopolitan Emperour, and brother to Baldwin Earle of Flanders:
and it was seazed upon by Mahomet, when Nigropont, and diverse other
Iles were surprised from the Venetians.
In Angusa I stayed sixteene dayes, storme-sted with Northernely
winds; and in all that time, I never came in bed: for my lodging
was in a little Chappell a mile without the Village, on hard stones;
where I also had a fire, and dressed my meate. The Greekes visited me
oftentimes, & intreated me above all things I should not enter within
the bounds of their Sanctuary; because I was not of their Religion. But
I in regard of the longsome and cold nights, was enforced every night
to creepe in, in the midst or the Sanctuary to keepe my selfe warme,
which Sanctuary was nothing but an Aultar hembd in with a partition
wall about my height, dividing the little roome from the body of
the Chappell.
These miserable Ilanders, are a kind of silly poore people; which
in their behaviour, shewed the necessity they had to live, rather
then any pleasure in their living. From thence I imbarked on a small
barke of ten Tunnes come from Scithia in Candy, and loaden with Oyle,
and about midday we arrived in the Ile of Mecano, where we but only
dined, and so set forward to Zea.
This Mecano was formely called Delos, famous for the Temple of Apollo,
being the chiefe Ile of the Cyclades, the rest of the 54. incircling
it: Delos signifieth apparant, because at the request of Juno, when
all the earth had [Latona receaved in Delos.] abjured the receipt
of Latona: This Iland then under the water, was by Jupiter erected
aloft, and fixt to receive her, wherein she was delivered of Apollo,
and Diana:
---- erratica Delos, &c.
Ovid. Unsetled Delos, floating on the maine,
Did wandring Laton kindly entertaine;
In spight of Juno, fatned with Joves balme,
Was brought to bed, under Minerva's palme.
In this Ile they retaine a custome, neither permitting men to dye,
or children to be borne in it: but alwayes when men fall sicke, and
women grow great bellied, they send them to Rhena a small Isoletta,
and two miles distant.
Zea to which we arrived from Mecano, was so called of Zeo, the sonne
of Phebo; and of some, Tetrapoli; because of the foure Citties that
were there of old. Symonides the Poet, and Eristato the excellent
Physition, were borne in it. The next Ile of any note we touched at,
was Tino: This Iland is under the Signory of Venice, and was sometime
beautified with the Temple of Neptune. By Aristotle it was called
Idrusa; of Demostenes, and Eschines, Erusea: It hath an impregnable
Castle, builded on the top of a high Rocke, towards the East-end or
Promontore of the Ile, and ever provided with three yeares provision,
and a Garison of two hundreth Souldiers: So that the Turkes by no
meanes can conquer it. The Iland it selfe is twenty miles in length,
and a great refuge for all Christian Shippes and Galleys that haunt
in the Levante.
[The Ile of Pathmos.] From this Ile I came to Palmosa, sometime
Pathmos, which is a mountainous and barren Iland: It was here that
Saint John wrote the Revelation after he was banished by Domitianus
the Emperour. Thence I imbarked to Nicaria, and sayled by the Ile
Scyro; which of old was the Signory of Licomedes, and in the habit
of a woman, was Achilles brought up here, because his mother being by
an Oracle premonished, that he should be killed in the Trojan Warre,
sent him to this Iland; where he was maiden-like brought up amongst
the Kings daughters: who in that time, begot Pyrhus upon Deidamia,
the daughter of Licomedes, and where the crafty Ulysses afterward
did discover this fatall Prince to Troy. As we fetched up the sight
of Nicaria, we espied two Turkish Galleots, who gave us the Chace,
and pursued us, straight to a bay, betwixt two Mountaines, where
we left the loaden boate, and fled to the Rockes, from whence we
mightily annoyed with huge tumbling stones, the persuing Turkes:
But in our flying, the Maister was taken, and other two old men;
whom they made captives and slaves: and also seized upon the Boate,
and all their goods: The number of us that escaped were nine persons.
This Ile Nicaria, was aunciently called Doliche, and Ithiosa,
and is somewhat barren: having no Sea-port at all: It was here,
the Poets feigned, that Icarus the sonne of Dedalus fell, when as he
tooke flight from Creta, with his borrowed wings, of whom it hath the
name; and [Ovid de Trist.] not following directly his father Dedalus,
was here drowned.
Dum petit infirmis nimium sublimiæ pennis
Icarus, Icariis, nomina fecit aquis.
Whiles Icarus weake wings, too high did flye,
He fell, and baptiz'd the Icarian sea.
So many moe, experience may account,
That both above their minds, and meanes would mount.
Expecting certaine dayes here, in a Village called Laphantos, for
passage to Sio, at last I found a Brigandino bound thither, that was
come from the fruitfull Ile of Stalimene, of old Lemnos. This Ile of
Stalimene is in circuit 90. miles, where in Hephestia it's Metropolis,
[Vulcans birth.] Vulcan was mightily adored; who being but a homely
brat, was cast downe hither by Juno, whereby it was no marvaile
if he became crooked, and went a halting: The soveraigne minerall
against infections, called Teera Lemnia, or Sigillata is digged here:
The former name proceedeth from the Iland: The latter is in force,
because the earth being made up in little pellets, is sealed with a
Turkish Signet, and so sold, and dispersed over Christendome. Having
imbarked in the aforesaid Brigandine, we sayled by the Ile Samos,
which is opposite to Caria, in Asia minor, where the Tyrant Policrates
lived so fortunate, as he had never any mischance all this time,
till at last Orientes a Persian brought him to a miserable death:
Leaving us an example, that fortune is certaine in nothing but in
incertainties, who like a Bee with a sharpe sting, hath alwaies
some misery following a long concatenation of felicities: It is of
circuit 160. and of length 40. miles: It was of old named Driusa,
and Melanphilo, in which Pythagoras the Philosopher, and Lycaon the
excellent Musitioner were borne.
Upon our left hand, and opposit to Samos lyeth the [Nixia.] Ile of
Nixia, formerly Naxos; in circuit 68. miles: It was also called the
Ile of Venus, and Dionisia, and was taken from the Venetians by Selim,
the father of Soliman: East from Nixia, lieth the Ile Amurgospolo, in
circuit twenty leagues, it hath three commodious ports, named St. Anna,
Calores, and Cataplino: A little from hence, and in sight of Natolia,
lieth the Ile Calamo, formerly Claros, in circuit thirty miles: and
Eastward thence the little Ile of Lerno, five leagues in circuit,
all inhabited with Greeks, and they, the silly ignorants of nature:
South-east from this lieth the [The Ile of Lango.] Ile of Coos now
Lango: by the Turkes called Stanccow, the Capitall Towne is Arango,
where Hypocrates and Apelles the Painter were borne: In this Ile,
there is a wine named by the Greekes, Hyppocon, that excelleth in
sweetnesse all other wines except the Malvasie, and it aboundeth
in Cypre and Turpentine trees: There is here a part of the Ile
disinhabited, in regard of a contagious Lake, that infecteth the ayre,
both Summer, and Winter. There is abundance of Alloes found here,
so much esteemed by our Pothecaries; the rest of this Ile shall be
touched in the owne place. And neere to Lango, lyeth the Ile Giara,
now Stopodia, it is begirded with Rocks and desartuous, unto which
the Romans were wont to send in banishment such as deserved death:
In generall of these Iles Cyclads, because they are so neere one to
another, and each one in sight of another, there are many Cursares
and Turkish Galleots, that still afflict these Ilanders: Insomuch
that the Inhabitants are constrained to keepe watch day and night,
upon the tops of the most commodious Mountaines, to discover these
Pirats; which they easily discerne from other vessells, [The danger of
Turkish Pirats.] both because of their Sayles and Oares: And whensoever
discovered, according to the number of cursary Boates, they make as
many fires, which giveth warning to all the Ports to be on guard:
And if the Sea voyagers in passing see no signe on these Iles, of
fire or smoake, then they perfectly know, these Laborinthing Seas,
are free from pestilent Raveners.
As we left the Ile Venico on our left hand, and entred in the gulfe
betweene Sio, and Eolida, the firme land is called Æolida, there fell
downe a deadly storme, at the Grecoe Levante, or at the North-east,
which split our Mast, carrying sayles and all over-boord: Whereupon
every man looked (as it were) with the stampe of death in his pale
visage. The tempest continuing (our Boate not being able to keepe
the Seas) we were constrained to seeke into a creeke, betwixt two
Rocks, for safety of our lives; where, when we entred, there was
no likely-hood of reliefe: for we had a shelfie shoare, and giving
ground to the Ankors, they came both home.
[A fearfull shipwracke.] The sorrowfull Maister seeing nothing but
shipwrack, tooke the Helme in hand, directing his course to rush upon
the face of a low Rocke, whereupon the sea most fearefully broke. As
we touched the Mariners contending who should first leape out,
some fell over-boord, and those that got land, were pulled backe by
the reciprocating waves: Neither in all this time durst I once move;
for they had formerly sworne, if I pressed to escape, before the rest
were first forth, they would throw me headlong into the sea: So being
two wayes in danger of death, I patiently offered up my prayers to God.
At our first encounter with the Rocks, (our fore-decks, and Boates
gallery being broke, and a great Lake made) the recoiling waves
brought us backe from the Shelfes a great way; which the poore Master
perceiving, and that there were seven men drowned, and eleven persons
alive, cryed with a loud voyce: Be of good courage, take up oares,
and row hastily; it may be, before the Barke sinke, we shall attaine
to yonder Cave, which then appeared to our sight: Every man working
for his owne deliverance (as it pleased God) we got the same with good
fortune: for no sooner were we disbarked, and I also left the last man,
but the Boat immediately sunke. There was nothing saved but my Coffino,
which I kept alwaies in my armes: partly, that it might have brought my
dead body to some creeke, where being found, might have beene by the
Greekes buryed; and partly I held it fast also, [A happy deliverance
from shipwracke.] that saving my life, I might save it too; it was
made of Reeds and would not easily sinke, notwithstanding of my papers
and linnen I carried into it: for the which safety of my things, the
Greekes were in admiration. In this Cave, which was 30. paces long,
within the mountaine, we abode three daies without either meate or
drinke: upon the fourth day at morne, the tempest ceasing, there
came Fisher-boates to relieve us, who found the ten Greekes almost
famished for lacke of foode; but I in that hunger-starving feare,
fed upon the expectation of my doubtfull reliefe.
True it is, a miserable thing it is for man, to grow an example to
others in matters of affliction, yet it is necessary that some men
should be so: For it pleased God, having showne a sensible disposition
of favour upon me, in humbling me to the very pit of extremities,
taught me also by such an unexpected deliverance, both to put my
confidence in his eternall goodnesse, and to know the frailty of my
owne selfe, and my ambition, which drave me often to such disasters.
The dead men being found on shoare, we buried them; and I learned at
that instant time, there were seventeene boats cast away on the Coast
of this Iland, and never a man saved: in this place the Greekes set
up a stone crosse in the memoriall of such a woefull mischance, and
mourned heavily, fasting and praying. I rejoycing and thanking God
for my safety (leaving them sorrowing for their friends and goods)
tooke journey through the Iland to Sio, for so is the City called,
being thirty miles distant: In my way I past by an old Castle standing
on a little hill, named Garbos, now Helias; where (as I was informed
by two Greekes in my company) the Sepulcher of Homer was yet extant:
for this Sio is one of the seven Iles and Townes, that contended for
his birth:
Septem urbes certant de stirpe insignis Homeri.
These Cities seven (I undername) did strive,
Who first brought Homer to the world alive.
Smyrna, Rhodos, Colophon, Salamis, Chios, Argos, Athenæ:
The which I willing to see, I entreated my associats to accompany me
thither; where, when we came, we descended by 16. degrees into a darke
Cell; and passing that, we entred in another foure squared roome,
in which [Homers Sepulcher.] I saw an auncient Tombe, whereon were
ingraven Greeke letters, which we could not understand for their
antiquity; but whether it was this Tombe or not, I doe not know,
but this they related, and yet very likely to have beene his Sepulcher.
[Sio.] This Ile of Sio is divided into two parts, to wit, Appanomera,
signifying the higher, or upper parts of it: The other Catomerea,
that is, the levell, or lower parts of the Ile: It was first called
Ethalia: It aboundeth so in Oranges and Lemmons, that they fill Barrels
and Pipes with the juyce thereof, and carry them to Constantinople,
which the Turkes use at their meate, as we doe the Verges. And also
called Pythiosa; next Cios, Acts 20. 15. And by Methrodorus, Chio, or
Chione: but at this day Sio. Not long agoe it was under the Genueses,
but now governed by the Turkes: It is of circuite an hundreth miles,
and famous for the medicinable Masticke that groweth there on Trees: I
saw many pleasant Gardens in it, which yeeld in great plenty, Orenges,
Lemmons, Apples, Peares, Prunes, Figges, Olives, Apricockes, Dates,
Adams Apples, excellent hearbes, faire flowers, sweete Hony, with store
of Cypre and Mulbery-trees, and exceeding good silke is made here.
At last I arrived at the Citty of Sio, where I was lodged, and kindly
used with an old man, of the Genuesen race, for the space of eight
dayes: I found here three Monasteries of the order of Rome, one of
the Jesuits, another of Saint Francis, and the third of the Dominican
Friers, being all come from Genoa; and because the greatest part of
the Citty is of that stocke, and of the Papall Sea, these Cloysters
have a braver life for good cheare, fat Wines, and delicate Leachery,
than any sort of Friers can elsewhere find in the world.
[The faire Dames of Sio.] The Women of the Citty Sio, are the most
beautifull Dames, (or rather Angelicall creatures) of all the Greekes,
upon the face of the earth, and greatly given to Venery.
If Venus foe-saw Sio's faire-fac'd Dames,
His stomacke cold, would burne, in lust-spred flames.
They are for the most part exceeding proude, and sumptuous in
apparell, and commonly go (even Artificers wives) in gownes of Sattin
and Taffety; yea, in Cloth of Silver and Gold, and are adorned with
precious Stones, and Gemmes, and Jewels about their neckes, and hands,
with Rings, Chaines, & Bracelets. Their Husbands are their Pandors,
and when they see any stranger arrive, they will presently demaund of
him; if he would have a Mistresse: and so they make Whoores of their
owne Wives, and are contented for a little gaine, to weare hornes:
such are the base minds of ignominious Cuckolds. If a Straunger
be desirous to stay all night with any of them, their price is a
Chicken of Gold, nine Shillings English, out of which this companion
receiveth his supper, and for his paines, a belly full of sinfull
content. This [The Fortresse of Sio.] Citty of Sio hath a large and
strong Fortresse, which was built by the Genueses, and now detained
by a Garison of Turkes, containing a thousand fire-houses within it,
some whereof are Greekes, some Genoueses, some Turkes, and Moores:
The Citty it selfe is unwalled, yet a populous and spacious place,
spred along by the Sea-side, having a goodly harbour for Galleyes and
Ships, the chiefe Inhabitants there, are descended of the Genoueses,
and professe the superstition of Rome: The people whereof were once
Lords of the Ægean Sea, maintaining a Navy of eighty Ships: In the
ende they became successively subject to the Romane and Greeke Princes;
till Andronico Paleologus, gave them and their Ile to the Justinianes,
a Noble Family of the Genoueses: from whom it was taken by Solyman
the Magnificent on Easter day 1566. being the same yeare that our late
gracious, and once Soveraigne Lord, King James of blessed memory was
borne. This Cittadale or Fortresse of Sio, standeth full betweene the
Sea, and the Harbour, was invaded by 800. Florentines, sent hither by
the great Duke Ferdinando, brother to Queene Mother of Fraunce, and our
owne Queene Maries Unkle, Anno 1600. August 7. The manner was thus,
The Genouesen seede, had sold the Fort unto the Duke of Florence,
whereupon he sent his Galleys and these Gallants thither: Where,
when arrived in the night, they scaled the walles, slue the watches,
and unhappily ram-forced all the Canon; and then entring the Fort put
all the Turkes to the sword, and among them, too many Christians: The
Galleys all this time, being doubtfull how it went, durst not enter
the harbour, but a storme falling downe, they bore up to an Isolet for
ancorage in the Æolid gulfe, and three miles distant: The next morning,
the Turkish Bashaw, the Citty, and all the Ilanders were in armes:
The Florentines being dismissed of their Galleys, grew discouraged,
and trying the Canon, which they had spoyled at their first scallet,
it would not be: Meane while, the Bashaw entred in parley with them,
and promised faithfully, to send them safe to the Galleys if they would
render. Upon the third day they yeeld, and as they issued forth, along
the draw bridge, and the Bashaw set in a Tent to receive them as they
came in, one by one, [The heads of 800. Florentines cut off.] he caused
strike off all their heads: And done, there was a Pinacle reared upon
the Walles of the Fort with their bare sculs which stand to this day.
But by your leave, Ferdinando in person, the yeare following, was
more than revenged of such a cruell and faithlesse proceeding: He
over-maisterd a Turkish towne and castle, put two thousand Turkes
to the sword, sparing neither old nor young, and recoyling infinit
richesse and spoyles of the towne, he brought home their heads with
him to Ligorne, and set them up there for a mercilesse monument.
After some certaine dayes attendance, I imbarked in a Carmoesal,
bound for Nigropont, which was forth of my way to Constantinople;
but because I would gladly have seene Macedonia, and Thessaly, I
followed that determination: In our way we touched at [The Ile of
Mytelene.] Mytelene, an Iland of old called Isa: next Lesbos: And
lastly Mytelene, of Milet the sonne of Phoebus. Pythacus, one of the
seaven Sages of Greece, the most valiant Antimenides, and his brother
Alceus the Lyricall Poet, Theophrastus the peripatetike Philosopher,
Arion the learned Harper, and the she Poet Sapho, were borne in it.
This Ile of Lesbos or Mytelene, containeth in compasse, one hundreth
forty sixe miles: the East parts are levell and fruitfull, the West and
South parts mountainous and barren: The chiefe Citties are Mytelene
and Methimnos: It was long under subjection of the Romane and Greeke
Emperours, till Calo Joannes, Anno 1355. gave it in dowry with his
sister, to Catalusio a Nobleman of Genoua; whose posterity enjoyed
it till Mahomet (surnamed the Greeke) did seaze on it, 1462.
[A comparison of Iles.] These Iles Sporades, are scattered in the
Ægean Sea, like as the Iles Orcades are in the North Seas of Scotland;
but different in clymate and fertility: for these South-easterne Iles
in Summer are extreame hot, producing generally (Nigroponti excepted)
but a few wines, fruites, and cornes, scarce sufficient to sustaine
the Ilanders. But these North-westerne Ilands in Sommer, are neither
hot nor cold; having a most wholesome and temperate ayre: and do
yeeld abundance of corne, even more then to suffice the Inhabitants;
which is yearely transported to the firme land, and sold: They have
also good store of Cattell, and good cheape, and the best fishing that
the whole Ocean yeeldeth, is upon the coasts of Orknay and Zetland.
In all these seperated parts of the Earth (which of themselves of old,
made up a little Kingdome) you shall alwaies [The plentifulnesse of
Orkney & Zetland.] finde strong March-Ale, surpassing fine Aqua-vitæ,
abundance of Geese, Hennes, Pigeons, Partridges, Moore-Fowle, Mutton,
Beefe and Termigants, with an infinite number of Connies, which
you may kill with a Crosse-bow, or Harquebuse, every morning forth
of your Chamber window, according to your pleasure in that pastime,
which I have both practised my selfe, and seene practised by others;
for they multiply so exceedingly, that they digge even under the
foundations of dwelling houses. Such is the will of God to bestow
upon severall places, particular blessings; whereby he demonstrateth
to man, the plentifull store-house of his gracious providence, so
many manner of wayes upon earth distributed; all glory be to his
incomprehensible goodnes therefore. I have seldome seene in all my
travells, more toward, and tractable people (I meane their Gentlemen)
and better house-keepers, then be these Orcadians, and Zetlanders:
whereof in the prime of my adolescency (by two voyages amongst these
Northerne Iles) I had the full proofe and experience.
And now certainely, as it is a signe of little wisedome, and greater
folly, for a man to answere suddenly to every light question;
so it is as great a shame and stupiditie in man to keepe silence,
when he should, and may deservingly speake; Wherefore damnifying the
one, and vilifying the other, I come forth betweene both (Pugno pro
Patria) to have a single bout with the ignorant malice of an imperious
and abortive Geographer, brought up in the Schooles neere Thames, &
Westward Ho at Oxford; who blindlings in an absurd description of the
world, hath produced many errors, & manifest untrueths to the world.
And these amongst thousands moe, which I justly can censure to
be false; namely, he reporteth the Orcadians to be a cruell and
barbarous peeple, and that the most part of Scotland regarded neither
King nor Law: tearming us also to have monstrous backes, against
the execution of Justice: and because (saith he) they resemble us
somewhat in visage and speech, the Scots are descended of the Saxons;
where when the blacke wings of the Eagle spred in the South, they
fled thither, thinking rather to enjoy penurious liberty, then rich
fetters of gold: Moreover, [False aspersion upon Scotland.] that the
scurvy Ile of Manne, is so abundant in Oates, Barley, and Wheate,
that it supplieth the defects of Scotland; so venemous also is
the Wormewood of his braine, that he impugneth Hector Boetius, to
have mentioned a rabble of Scottish Kings before Kenneth, the first
Monarch of all Scotland; but were he fast rabled in a rope, I thinke
his presumptuous and impertinent phrase were well recompensed: Yea,
further he dare to write, that if the Mountaines, and unaccessable
Woods, had not beene more true to the Scots, then their owne valour,
that Kingdome had long since beene subdued.
Many other introductions flow from his shallow base-branded
apprehension which I purposely omit: To this his perverst malignitie
(without partiall or particular construction) I generally answere; that
for courteous penetrating lenity; industrious tractability; prompt and
exquisite ingeniosity; nobly taught, vivacious, & vertuous Gentility;
humane, and illustrious generosity; inviolate, and uncommixed nationall
pedegree; Learned, Academicall, and Ecclesiasticke Clergy; for sincere
Religion, and devoute Piety; affable and benevolent Hospitality;
civill & zealous orders in spirituality; so docible a people to
supreame regality; and for true valour, courage, and magnanimity;
there is no Kingdome or Nation within the compasse of the whole
universe, can excell, or compare with it.
Now what a selfe Losungeous fellow hath this fustian companion proved,
when the flat contrary of his abjured impositions, is infallibly
knowne to be of undoubted trueth. And how often hath Europe, the seat
of Christendome, and Mistresse of the world, had the full experience
in all her distressed corners, of the valiant, faithfull service,
and unresistable valour of the people, of that never conquered Nation:
the testimonies are evident, for my part I desist, and will not medle
to peramble through peremptory inferences, on particular Kingdomes,
although I acquitingly can; Howsoever a pertinacious Buffon dare,
and falsely will doe it:
[Certaine replyes.] Each base fantasticke braine, dare forge
new stiles,
And alter Regions, customes, Townes, and Iles:
Strip'd in a bravad, he can joyne (disjoyne
Contiguat Kingdomes) distant lands in one;
First Broaker-like, he scrap's rags, snips and bits,
Then playes the Ruffian, shifting with his wits:
Last Serpent-like, he casts a winter skin,
And like a strumpet boldly enters in;
This charling Ape, with counterfeits and lies,
And blandements; would feede the worlds wide eyes:
Thus like a stupid Asse, this blocke-head Foole,
Must turne a Coxcombe, studying in the Schoole:
Would he be wise and exercise his braines
Goe travell first, experience knowledge gaines:
Dare he to write of Kingdomes, that ne'er saw
His fathers Oxe, perhaps the plough to draw;
And scarce can tell even of the bread he eates
How many frames it suffers, toyle, and sweats;
Nor ne'er ten miles, was travell'd from his cradle
Yet faine would sit, the steerd Pegasian sadle:
Whiles loytring in a Colledge, thus he dare
Sow lyes, reape shame, build Lottries in the ayre;
Goe doting Gull? Goe? blot away thy name?
And let thy labours perish with thy fame.
This Ile of Mytelena, is by the Turkes called Sarcam lying without
the mouth of the gulfe of Smyrna, and opposite to the Westerne coast
of Phrigia minor; where besides excellent Wine and Cornes, there are
two sorts of dregs made there, which the Turkes use to put in their
pottage: In Turkish the one is called Trachana, the other Bouhort,
which the Romanes aunciently named Crimnon and Mazza. Whence Loosing
from Mitylene in the aforesaid Carmosal, we touched at Dalamede,
in the [The Ile Androsia.] Ile Androsia, the Northmost Ile of the
Syclades toward Thessalia: It is indifferent copious of all things
necessary for humane life, and round sixty miles: The Athenians of old
(as Plutarch mentioneth) sent hither Themistocles to demaund tribute;
Themistocles told them, he came to inflict some great imposition upon
them, being accompanied with two Goddesses; the one was (Eloquence) to
perswade them, and the other was (Violence) to enforce them. Whereunto
the Androsians replyed, that on their side, they had two Goddesses
as strong; the one whereof was (Necessity) whereby they had it not;
and the other (Impossibility) whereby they could not part with that
they never enjoyed.
This Ægean Sea, or mare Ægeum, had its denomination from Ægeus
the father of Theseus, who misdoubting his sonnes returne from
the Minotaure of Creet, here leaped in, and drowned himselfe: The
greatest part of these sixty nine Kings, that Agamemnon tooke with
him to the siege of Troy, were onely Kings of these little Ilands:
By some they are divided into two parts, Cyclades, and Sporades; the
former containing fifty foure, and the latter twelve Iles; modernely
they are all cognominat Archipylago, or the Arch Ilands.
Hoysing saile from Dalamede, we set over to Nigroponti, being sixty
miles distant, and bearing up Eastward to double the South Cape,
we straight discovered [Two Turkish Galleots.] two Turkish Galleots
pursuing us: Whereupon with both sailes and oares, we sought in to the
bottome of a long creeke, on the West side of the Cape, called Bajo
di piscatori; whither also fled nine Fisher-boates for refuge: The
Galleots fearing to follow us in, went to Ankor, at a rocky Isolet in
the mouth of the bay, and then within night were resolved to assaile
us. But night come, and every night of sixe (for there sixe dayes
they expected us) we made such Bonfires, that so affrighted them
(being two miles from any Village) they durst never adventure it:
Yet I being a stranger was exposed by the untoward Greekes to stand
Centinell every night, on the top of a high Promontore, it being
the dead time of a snowy and frosty winter; which did invite my Muse
to bewaile the tossing of my toylesome life, my solitary wandring,
and the long distance of my native soyle:
Carmina secessum scribentis, & otia quærunt
Me Mare, me venti, me fera jactat Hyems.
I Wander in exile,
As though my Pilgrimage:
Were sweete Comedian scænes of love
Upon a golden Stage.
Ah I, poore I, distres'd,
Oft changing to and fro,
Am forc'd to sing sad Obsequies
Or this my Swan-like wo.
A vagabonding Guest,
Transported here and there,
Led with the mercy-wanting winds
Of feare, griefe, and dispaire.
Thus ever-moving I,
To restlesse journeys thrald,
Obtaines by Times triumphing frownes
A calling, unrecal'd:
Was I præordain'd so
Like Tholos Ghost to stand.
Three times foure houres, in twenty foure
With Musket in my hand.
Ore-blasted with the stormes
Of Winter-beating Snow,
And frosty pointed haile-stones hard
On me poore wretch to blow.
No Architecture Lo
But whirling-windy Skyes.
Or'e-syld with thundring claps of Clouds,
Earths center to surprise.
I, I, it is my fate,
Allots this fatall crosse,
And reckons up in Characters,
The time of my Times losse.
My destiny is such,
Which doth predestine me,
To be a mirrour of mishaps,
A Mappe of misery.
Extreamely doe I live,
Extreames are all my joy,
I find in deepe extreamities,
Extreames, extreame annoy.
Now all alone I watch,
With Argoes eyes and wit.
A Cypher twixt the Greekes and Turkes
Upon this Rocke I sit.
A constrain'd Captive I,
Mongst incompassionate Greekes,
Bare-headed, downeward bowes my head,
And liberty still seekes.
But all my sutes are vaine,
Heaven sees my wofull state:
Which makes me say, my worlds eye-sight
Is bought at too high rate.
Would God I might but live,
To see my native Soyle:
Thrice happy in my happy wish,
To end this endlesse toyle:
Yet still when I record,
The pleasant bankes of Clide:
Where Orchards, Castles, Townes, and Woods,
Are planted by his side:
And chiefly Lanerke thou,
Thy Countries Laureat Lampe:
In which this bruised body now
Did first receive the stampe.
Then doe I sigh and sweare,
Till death or my returne,
Still for to weare the Willow wreath,
In sable weed to mourne.
Since in this dying life,
A life in death I take,
Ile sacrifice in spight of wrath,
These solemne vowes I make,
To thee sweete Scotland first,
My birth and breath I leave:
To Heaven my soule, my heart King James,
My Corpes to lye in grave.
My staffe to Pilgrimes I,
And Pen to Poets send;
My haire-cloth roabe, and halfe-spent goods,
To wandring wights I lend.
Let them dispose as though
My treasure were of Gold,
Which values more in purest prise,
Then drosse ten thousand fold.
These Trophees I erect,
Whiles memory remaines:
An epitomiz'd Epitaph,
On Lithgows restlesse paines:
My will's inclos'd with love,
My love with earthly blis:
My blisse in substance doth consist,
To crave no more but this.
Thou first, is, was, and last,
Eternall, of thy grace,
Protect, prolong, great Britaines King,
His Sonne, and Royall Race.
AMEN.
Upon the seaventh day, there came downe to visit us, two Gentlemen
of Venice, clothed after the Turkish manner; who under exile,
were banished their Native Territories ten yeares for slaughter;
each of them having two servants, and all of them carrying Shables,
and two Gunnes a peece: which when I understood, they were Italians, I
addressed my selfe to them, with a heavy complaint against the Greekes,
in detaining my Budgeto, and compelling me to endanger my life for
their goods: whereupon they accusing the Patrone, and finding him
guilty of this oppression, belaboured him soundly with handy blowes,
and caused him to deliver my things, carrying me with them five miles
to a Towne where they remained, called Rethenos, formerly Carastia,
where I was exceeding kindly entertained ten dayes: And most nobly (as
indeed they were noble) they bestowed on me forty Chickens of Gold at
my departure, for the better advancement of my voyage, which was the
first gift that ever I received in all my travells. For if the darts
of death had not beene more advantagious to me, then Asiaticke gifts,
I had never beene able to have undergone this tributary, tedious,
and sumptuous peregrination: The confluence of the divine providence
allotting me meanes, from the losse of my dearest consorts gave me
in the deepnesse of sorrow, a thankefull rejoycing.
[The Ile Nigroponti.] Nigroponti was formerly called Euboea,
next, Albantes: and is now surnamed the Queene of Archipelago: The
Turkes cognominate this Ile Egribos: The Towne of Nigropont, from
which the Ile taketh the name, was taken in by Mahomet the second;
Anno. 1451. and in this Ile is found the Amianten stone, which is said
to be drawne in threeds, as out of Flaxe, whereof they make napkins,
and other like stuffes; and to make it white, they use to throw it
in the fire, being salted: The stone also is found here, called by
the Greekes Ophites, and by us Serpentine. The circuit of this Ile
is three hundred fourty sixe miles. It is seperated from the firme
land of Thessalia, from the which it was once rent by an Earthquake,
with a narrow channell, over the which in one place there is a bridge,
that passeth betweene the Ile, and the maine continent, and under
it runneth a marvellous swift current, or Euripus, which ebbeth and
floweth sixe times night and day. Within halfe a mile of the bridge,
I saw a Marble columne, standing on the toppe of a little Rocke, whence
(as the Ilanders told me) [Aristotles death.] Aristotle leaped in,
and drowned himselfe, after that he could not conceive the reason, why
this Channell so ebbed & flowed: using these words, Quia ego non capio
te, tu capias me. This Ile bringeth forth in abundance, all things
requisite for humane life, and decored with many goodly Villages.
The chiefe Cities are Nigropont, and Calchos: The principall rivers
Cyro, and Nelos, of whom it is sayd, if a sheepe drinke of the
former, his wooll becommeth white, if of the latter coale blacke. From
thence and after 22. dayes abode in this Ile, I arrived at a Towne in
Macedonia, called Salonica, but of old Thessalonica, where I stayed
five dayes, and was much made of by the Inhabitants, being Jewes.
[Salonica.] Salonica is situate by the sea side, betweene the two
Rivers Chabris and Ehedora: It is a pleasant, large and magnificke
City, full of all sorts of merchandize; and it is nothing inferiour in
all things (except nobility) unto Naples in Italy: It was sometimes
for a while under the Signiory of Venice, till Amurath the sonne of
Mahomet, tooke it from this Reipublicke. And is the principall place
of Thessaly which is a Province of Macedon, together with Achaia,
and Myrmedon, which are the other two Provinces of the same.
This City of Salonica is now converted in an university for the Jewes;
and they are absolute Signiors thereof under the great Turke, with
a large Territory of land, lying without and about them: It hath
beene ever in their hands since Soliman tooke in Buda in Hungary,
Anno. 1516. August. 20. to whome they lent two millions of money,
and for warrandice whereof, they have this Towne and Province made
fast to them: They speake vulgarly and Maternally here the Hebrew
tongue, man, woman and child, and not else where in all the world. All
their Sinagogian or Leviticall Priests are bred here, and from hence
dispersed to their severall stations.
[Thessaly.] Thessaly a long the sea side, lieth betweene Peloponnesus,
and Achaia: Wherein standeth the hill Olympus, on which Hercules did
institute the Olympian games, which institution was of long time the
Grecian Epoche, from whence they reckoned their time.
Macedon is now called by the Turkes Calethiros, signifying a mighty &
warlike Nation: Macedonia, containing Thessaly, Achaia, and Mirmidon,
lieth as a center to them; having Achaia to the East: Thessalia to
the South: Mirmidonia, bordering with Ætolia to the West: And a part
of Hoemus, whence it was called Hæmonia, and some of Misia superior
to the North: It was also called Amathia, from Amathus once King
thereof, and then Macedonia from the King Macedo: The chiefe Cities
are Andorista, Andesso, Sydra, Sederaspen, where the mines of gold
and silver be, which enrich the Turke so monethly, receiving thence
somtimes 18000. 24000. & 30000. Ducats. And Pellia, where Alexander
the great was borne. Bajazet the first, wonne this Countrey, from the
Constantinopolitans. About this City of Salonica is the most fertile
and populous Countrey in all Greece.
[The vicissitude of Greece.] Greece of all Kingdomes in Europe,
hath bene most famous, and highly renowned for many noble respects:
yet most subject to the vicissitude of Fortune than any other: who
changing Gold for Brasse, and loathing their owne Princes, suffered
many tyrants to rule over them, scourging their folly with their fall,
and curing a festered soare with a poysoned playster: whence succeded
a dismall discord, which beginning when the State of Greece was at the
highest, did not expire till it fell to the lowest ebbe; sticking fast
in the hands of a grievous desolation: which former times, if a man
would retrospectively measure, he might easily find, and not without
admiration, how the mighty power of the divine Majestie doth swey the
moments of things, and sorteth them in peremptory manner to strange
and unlooked for effects: making reason blind, policy astonished,
strength feeble, valour dastardly, turning love into hatred, feare
into fury, boldnesse into trembling, and in the circuit of one minute,
making the Conquerour, a conquered person.
Greece now tearmed by the Turkes Rum-Ili, the Romane Countrey,
was first called Helles, next Grecia of Grecus, who was once King
thereof: The Greekes, of all other Gentiles, were the first converted
Christians, and are wonderfull devout in their professed Religion: The
Priests weare the haire of their heads hanging over their shoulders:
These that be the most sincere religious men; abstaine alwayes from
eating of flesh or fish, contenting themselves with water, hearbes,
and bread: They differ much in ceremonies, and principles of Religion
from the Papists, and the computation of their Kalender is as ours.
[Foure Patriarchs in the Greekish Church.] They have foure Patriarkes,
who governe the affaires of their Church, and also any civill
dissentions, which happen amongst them, viz. one in Constantinople,
another in Antiochia, the third in Alexandria, & the fourth in
Jerusalem. It is not needfull for me to penetrate further in the
condition of their estate, because it is no part of my intent in this
Treatise. In a word, they are wholly degenerate from their Auncestors
in valour, vertue, and learning: Universities they have none, and
civill behaviour is quite lost: formerly in derision they tearmed
all other Nations Barbarians: A name now most fit for themselves,
being the greatest dissembling lyers, inconstant, and uncivill people
of all other Christians in the World.
[False testimonie of vagabonding Greekes.] By the way, I must give
the Kings Kingdomes a caveat here, concerning vagabonding Greekes,
and their counterfeit Testimonials: True it is, there is no such
matter, as these lying Rascals report unto you, concerning their
Fathers, their Wives, and Children taken Captives by the Turke: O
damnable invention! How can the Turke prey upon his owne Subjects,
under whom, they have as great Liberty, save onely the use of Bels,
as we have under our Princes: The tyth of their Male children, being
absolutely abrogated by Achmet, this Amuraths Father; and the halfe
also of their Female Dowry at Marriages: And farre lesse for Religion,
can they be banished, or deprived of their Benefices, as some false
and dissembling fellowes, under the Title of Bishops make you beleeve;
There being a free Liberty of Conscience, for all kinds of Religion,
through all his Dominions, as well for us free borne Frankes as for
them, and much more them, the Greekes, Armenians, Syriacks, Amoronits,
Coptics, Georgians, or any other Orientall sort of Christians: And
therefore looke to it, that you be no more gulled, golding them so
fast as you have done, least for your paines, you prove greater Asses,
than they do Knaves.
In Salonica I found a Germo, bound for Tenedos, in which I imbarked:
As we sayled along the Thessalonian shoare, I saw the two topped
hill Pernassus, which is of a wondrous height, whose tops even kisse
the Clouds.
[Pernassus.] Mons hic cervicibus petit arduus astra duobus,
Nomine Pernassus, superatque cacumine montes.
Through thickest cloudes, Pernassus bends his height,
Whose double tops, do kisse the Starres so bright.
Here it was sayd the nine Muses haunted: but as for the Fountaine
Helicon, I leave that to be searched, and seene by the imagination of
Poets; for if it had bene objected to my sight, like an insatiable
drunkard, I should have drunke up the streames of Poesie, to have
enlarged my dry poeticall Sun scoarch'd veine.
The Mountaine it selfe is somewhat steepe, and sterile, especially
the two toppes, the one whereof is dry, and sandy, signifying that
Poets are alwayes poore, and needy: The other top is barren, and rocky,
resembling the ingratitude of wretched, and niggardly Patrons: the vale
betweene the tops is pleasant, and profitable, denoting the fruitfull,
and delightfull soyle, which painefull Poets, the Muses Plow-men,
so industriously manure. A little more East-ward, as we fetcht up
the coast of Achaia, the maister of the vessell shewed me a ruinous
village, and castle, where he sayd the admired [Thebes.] Citty of
Thebes had bene. Whose former glory, who can truely write of; for
as the earth, when she is disroabed of her budding and fructifying
trees, and of her amiable verdure, which is her onely grace and
garment royall, is like a naked table wherein nothing is painted:
even so is Thebes and her past tryumphs defac'd, and bereft of her
lusty and young Gentlemen, as if the spring-tide had bene taken from
the yeare: But what shall I say to know the cause of such like things,
they are so secret and mysticall; being the most remote objects, to
which our understanding may aspire, that we may easily be deceived,
by disguised and pretended reasons; whilst we seeke for the true
and essentiall causes: for to report things that are done is easie,
because the eye and the tongue may dispatch it, but to discover
and unfold the causes of things, requireth braine, soule, and the
best progresse of nature. And as there is no evill without excuse,
nor no pretence without some colour of reason, nor wiles wanting
to malicious and wrangling wits; Even so, was there occasion sought
for, what from Athens, and what from Greece, whereby the peace and
happinesse of Thebes might be dissolved, and discord raised to the
last ruines of her desolation.
[Geographicall errours.] This Achaia is by some ignorant Geographers
placed in the middle betweene Epire, Thessaly, and Peloponesus: where
contrariwise it is the Eastmost Province of Greece except Thrace,
lying along twixt it and Thessaly by the sea side, which part of
the Countrey, some late Authors have falsly named Migdonia, which
is a Province, that lieth North from Thracia, East from Macedon,
and South from Misia, having no affinity with the Sea: The chiefe
Citties in Achaia, are Neapolis, Appollonia, and Nicalide where the
famous Philosophers Aristotle was borne: Here is a huge and high Hill
Athos, containing in circuit 70. miles, and as some affirme three
dayes journey long, whose shaddow was absurdly sayd to have extended
to Lemnos, an Iland lying neere the Carpathian Sea.
Achaia was formerly called Aylaide, but now by the Turkes Levienda:
Athos in Greeke is called Agios æros, to wit, a holy Mountaine;
the top of it is halfe a dayes journey broad, and 14. Italian miles
high. There are twenty Monasteries upon it of Greekish Coleires, a
laborious kind of silly Friers, and kind to Strangers: The chiefest
of which Cloisters, are called Victopodos, and Agios laura, being
all of them strongly walled and fensible.
Upon the third day from Salonica, we arrived in the Roade of Tenedos,
which is an Iland in the Sea Pontus, or Propontis: It hath a City
called Tenedos, built by Tenes, which is a gallant place, having a
Castle, and a faire Haven for all sorts of vessells: It produceth
good store of wines, and the best supposed to be in all the South
east parts of Europe, or yet in Asia. The Iland is not bigge, but
exceeding fertile, lying three miles from the place where Troy stood,
as Virgil reported, Æneid. 2.
[Tenedos.] Est in conspectu Tenedos, notissima fama insula,
In sight of Troy, a stately Ile I fand
Shut up with Pontus, from the Trojane land;
Whose beauteous bounds, made me wish there to stay,
Or that I might transport the same away;
Else like Tritonean rude Proponticke charmes,
T' imbrace sweet Tenes, alwaies in mine armes.
And againe:
Insula dives opum, Priami dum regna manebant.
An Ile most rich, in Silkes, delicious Wine,
When Priams Kingdome did in glory shine.
Where Ceres now, and Bachus love to dwell
And Flora too, in Berecinthiaes Cell.
In Tenedos I met by accident, two French Merchants of Marseills,
intending for Constantinople, who had lost their ship at Sio,
when they were busie at venereall tilting, with their new elected
Mistresses, and for a second remedy, were glad to come thither in
a Turkish Carmoesalo. The like of this I have seene fall out with
Seafaring men, Merchants, and Passengers, who buy sometimes their
too much folly, with too deare a repentance. They and I resolving to
view Troy, did hire a Jenisarie to be our conductor and protector,
and a Greeke to be our Interpreter. Where when we landed, we saw here
and there many relicts of old walles, as we travelled through these
famous bounds. And as we were advanced toward the East part of Troy,
our Greeke brought us to many [The Tombes of Trojanes.] Tombes, which
were mighty ruinous, and pointed us particularly to the Tombes of
Hector, Ajax, Achilles, Troylus, and many other valiant Champions,
with the Tombes also of Hecuba, Cresseid, and other Trojane Dames:
Well I wot, I saw infinite old Sepulchers, but for their particular
names, and nomination of them, I suspend, neither could I beleeve my
Interpreter, sith it is more then three thousand and odde yeares agoe,
that Troy was destroyed.
Here Tombes I viewd, old monuments of Times,
And fiery Trophees, fixd for bloody crimes:
For which Achilles ghost did sigh and say,
Curst be the hands, that sakelesse Trojanes slay;
But more fierce Ajax, more Ulysses Horse,
That wrought griefes ruine; Priams last divorce:
And here inclosd, within these clods of dust,
All Asiaes honour, and cros'd Paris lust.
[Priamus pallace.] He shewed us also the ruines of King Priams Palace,
and where Anchises the father of Æneas dwelt. At the North-east corner
of Troy, which is in sight of the Castles of Hellesponte, there is a
gate yet standing, and a peece of a reasonable high wall; upon which
I found three peeces of rusted money, which afterward I gave two of
them to the younger brethren of the Duke of Florence, then studying
in Pretolino: The other being the fairest with a large Picture on the
one side, I bestowed it at Aise in Provance upon a learned Scholler,
Master Strachon, my Countrey man, then Mathematician to the Duke of
Guise, who presently did propine his Lord and Prince with it.
[A description of Troy.] Where the pride of Phrygia stood, it is a
most delectable plaine, abounding now in Cornes, Fruites, and delicate
Wines, and may be called the garden of Natolia: yet not populous,
for there are but onely five scattered Villages, in all that bounds:
The length of Troy hath been, as may be discerned, by the fundamentall
walls yet extant, about twenty Italian miles, which I reckon to be ten
Scottish or fifteene English miles; lying along the sea side betweene
the three Papes of Ida, and the furthest end Eastward of the River
Simois: whose breadth all the way hath not outstripd the fields above
two miles: The Inhabitants of these five scatterd Bourges therein,
are for the most part Greekes, the rest are Jewes, and Turkes.
[The Authors portracture.] And loe here is mine Effigie affixed with
my Turkish habit, my walking staffe, & my Turban upon my head, even
as I travelled in the bounds of Troy, and so through all Turkey:
Before my face on the right hand standeth the Easterne and sole
gate of that sometimes noble City, with a piece of a high wall,
as yet undecayed: And without this Port runneth the River Simois
(inclosing the old Grecian Campe) downe to the Marine, where it
imbraceth the Sea Propontis: A little below, are bunches of grapes,
denoting the vineyards of this fructiferous place; adjoyning neare to
the fragments and ruynes of Priams Pallace, surnamed Ilium: And next
to it a ravenous Eagle, for so this part of Phrigia is full of them:
So beneath my feet ly the two Tombes of Priamus & Hecuba his Queene:
And under them the incircling hills of Ida, at the West South west
end of this once Regall Towne; & at my left hand, the delicious and
pleasant fields of Olives and Figge-trees, wherewith the bowells of
this famous soyle are interlarded: And here this piece or portracture
decyphered; the continuing discourse, inlarging both meane & manner.
Troy was first built by Dardanus sonne to Corinthus King of Corinth,
who having slaine his brother Jasius, fled to this Countrey, and
first erected it, intituling it Dardania: Next it was called Troy
of Tros, from whom the Countrey was also named Troas: It was also
termed Ilion of Ilus, who built the Regall pallace surnamed Ilium:
This City was taken and defaced by Hercules, and the Greecians, in
the time of Laomedon, himselfe being killed the latter time: Lastly,
Troy was reedified by Priamus, who giving leave to his sonne Paris
to ravish Helena, Menalaus wife, enforced the Greekes to renew the
auncient quarrell: Where after 10. yeares siege the Towne was utterly
subverted, Anno Mundi 1783.
[Homer and Virgil upon Troy.] Whence Princely Homer, and that
Mantuan borne,
Sad Tragicke tunes, erect'd for Troy forlorne;
And sad Æneas, fled to the Affricke Coast,
Where Carthage groand, to heare how Troy was lost:
But more kind Dido, when this wandring Prince,
(Had left Numidia, stole away from thence)
Did worser groane; who with his shearing sword,
Her selfe she gor'd, with many weeping word.
O deare Æneas! deare Trojane, art thou gone?
And then she fell, death swallowed up her mone:
They land at Cuma, where Latinus King
Did give Æneas, Lavinia, with a Ring.
Where now in Latium, that old Daidan stocke
Is extant yet, though in the discent broke.
[Rash Judgement.] On the South-west side of Troy, standeth the Hill
Ida, having three heads. On which Paris out of a sensuall delight,
rejecting Juno, and Pallas, judged the golden ball to Venus, fatall
in the end to the whole Countrey. The ruines of which are come to
that Poeticall Proverbe:
Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit.
Now Corne doth grow, where once faire Troy stood,
And soyle made fat, with streames of Phrygian blood.
Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois,
& dined at a Village named Extetash: I remember, in discharging our
covenant with the Janisary, who was not contented with the former
condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had
given, the wrathfull Janisary belaboured them both with a cudgell,
till the bloud sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double
his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the
full experience afterward) that if he cannot make his owne part good,
he must alwayes at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise
he will be constrained, doubtlesse, with stroakes, to pay twice as
much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law
of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a dogge:
but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be
French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit shew
of thankes, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape.
[Sestos and Abydos.] Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of
olde Sestos, and Abydos, in a small Frigot, which are two Fortresses
opposite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abidos
in Asia where Bithinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant,
and both of them foure leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning
of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hiero and
Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable
fidelity in love.
Which curling tops, Leander cut in two,
And through proud billowes, made his passage goe;
To court his Mistresse: O Hiero the faire!
Whom Hellespont to stop, was forc'd to dare:
Sweet was their sight to other, short their stay,
For still Leander, was recald by day.
At last sterne Æole, puft on Neptunes pride,
And gloomy Hellespont, their loves divide:
He swimmes, and sinkes, and in that glutting downe,
The angry Fates, did kind Leander drowne:
Of which when Hiero heard, judge you her part,
She smote her selfe, and rent in two her heart.
But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly; yea, or
rather the strength of Constantinople, betweene which no Shippes may
enter, without knowledge of the Captaines, and are by them strictly and
warily searched, least the Christians should carry in Men, Munition,
or furniture of Armes, for they stand in feare of surprising the
Towne: And at their returne they must stay three dayes, before
they are permitted to go through, because of transporting away any
Christian slaves, or if they have committed any offence in the Citty,
the knowledge thereof may come in that time.
At that same instant of my abode at Abidos, there were fourescore
Christian slaves, who having cut their Captaines throat, with the rest
of the Turkes, [Christian slaves fled from Constantinople.] runne away
from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day
thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the watch of both Castles,
where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres; yet they escaped
with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring
landing, & succour, for their victuals were done: victuals they sent
them, but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land. In
end, the Sea growing somewhat boysterous, the slaves for an excuse
cut their Cables, and runne the Galley a shoare: Upon this they were
entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley,
fearing least the Turkes should thereby forge some quarrell. The
yeare following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poore
slaves having past the Castles, had bene so wounded and killed with
the great shot, and the Galley ready to sinke, they were enforced to
runne a shoare, where the next morning being apprehended, they were
miserably put to death. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is
about fourty leagues. Over this straite Xerxes did make a bridge of
boates to passe into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly
battered, he caused the sea to be beaten with 300. stripes.
[The sorrow of Xerxes.] And at that same time Xerxes passing over the
Hellespont, and seeing all the sea cled with his Army, his Horses,
Chariots, and Ships, the teares burst from his eyes: and being
demanded the cause of his griefe? answered, O, sayd he, I weepe
because within a hundreth yeares, all this great and glorious sight,
shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be
alive, nor Chariot, nor Engine of Warre, but shall be turn'd to dust;
and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was
a worthy saying, from such a Heathnish Monarch, who saw no further,
than the present misery of this life.
Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barbour, and imbarked
for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato. The first place of any
note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the auncient Citty of
Gallipolis, the second seate of Thracia, which was first builded
by Caius Caligula, and sometimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules:
It was the first Towne in Europe, that the Turkes conquered; and was
taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes, Anno 1438.
North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria commonly Volgaria,
and was called so of certaine people, that came from a countrey, neere
to the River Volgo in Russia, about the yeare 666. It lieth betweene
Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Auncients, it was thought to
be the lower Mysia (but more justly the Region of Dacia.) The chiefe
Towne is Sophia, which some hold to be that Towne, which Ptolomeus
named Tibisca.
Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously
murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Priamus: For which fact Hecuba,
the young Princes mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned
the worthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper,
in maistering and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince
had sent him an exquisite present, of accurately wrought glasses;
he (having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and
gratitude of Majestie) broke them all to peeces: Least by mishappe,
any of his Servants doing the like, might stirre or move him to an
intemperate choller.
[Mount Athos.] The Greekes here, and generally through all Greece,
beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, as the Papists
beare to Rome: All of which Religious Coliers or Friers, must toyle and
labour for their living, some in the Vines, some in the Corne-fields,
and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are
alwayes occupied for the mainteining of their Families: They are but
poorely cled, yet wonderfull kinde to all Viadants; so that who so
have occasion to passe that Mountaine, are there lodged, and furnished
of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrat or solitary
livers, whose simple and harmelesse lives, may be tearmed to be the
very Emblemes of Piety and Devotion; knowing nothing but to serve God,
and to live soberly in their carriage.
The chiefest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Abdera, where
Democritus was borne, who spent his life in laughing, Sestos,
Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adrianopolis, which was taken by
Bajazet, Anno. 1362.
As we sayled betweene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian brought
up in Padua that was in my company, shewed me Colchis, whence Jason,
with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aide of Medeas skill,
did fetch the golden fleece. [The Sea Hellespont.] This Sea Hellespont
tooke the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, who was
here drowned; and of the Countrey Pontus, joyning to the same Sea,
wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis, and
Cappadocia. After we had fetcht up the famous City of Calcedon in
Bithinia on our right hand; I beheld on our left hand, the Prospect
of that little World, the great City of Constantinople; which indeed
yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder, of goodly
Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things,
whereof now the World make so great accompt, that the whole earth
cannot equall it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entred in the
channell of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And
arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lyeth,
I adressed my selfe to a Greeke lodging, to refresh my selfe till
morning.
But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my landing, for bidding
farewell to the Turkes, who had kindly used me three dayes, in our
passage from the Castles, the Maister of the boate saying, adio
Christiano: There were foure French Runnagats standing on the Kaye;
[A harsh arrivall.] who hearing these words, fell desperatly upon me,
blaspheming the name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beate
me most cruelly: And if it had not beene for my friendly Turkes,
who leaped out of their boate and relieved me, I had doubtlesse
there perished. The other Infidells standing by, said to me, behold
what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned
Mahometans, cannot abide, nor regard the name of thy God; having left
them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left me, I entred a Greeke
lodging, where I was kindly received; and much eased of my blowes,
because they caused to oynt them with divers Oyles, and refreshed
me also with their best entertainement, gratis, because I had
suffered so much for Christs sake, and would receive no recompense
againe. The day following, I went to salute, and doe my duety to
the right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Glover, then Lord Ambassadour for
our late Gratious Soveraigne King James, of blessed memory, who most
generously & courteously entertained me three moneths in his house,
to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my
following discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be
more particularly avouched: for certainely I never met with a more
compleat Gentleman in all my travells; nor one in whom true worth
did more illustrat vertue.
THE FOURTH PART
Now sing I of Bizantium: Bosphors tydes,
Twixt Europe, and the lesser Asia glydes:
Their Hyppodrome, adorn'd with triumphes past,
And blackish Sea; the Jadilecke more fast:
The Galata, where Christian merchants stay,
And five Ambassadours for commerce aye:
The Turkish customes, and their manners rude,
And of their discent, from the Scythian blood:
Their harsh Religion, and their sense of Hell:
And Paradice: their lawes I shall you tell:
Then last of Mahomet, their God on earth
His end, his life, his parentage and birth.
Constantinople is the Metropolitan of Thracia, so called of Constantine
the Emperour, who first enlarged the same: It was called of old
Bizantium, but now by the Turkes Stambolda, which signifieth in
their language, a large City: It was also called Ethuse, and by
the Greekes Stymbolis. This City (according to auncient Authors)
was first founded by the Lacedemonians, who were conducted from
Lacedemon, by one Pausanias, about the yeare of the World 3294. which
after their consultation with Apollo, where they should settle their
abode and dwelling place, they came to Bithinia, and builded a City
which was called Calcedon. But the commodity of fishing, falling
out contrary to their expectation, in respect that the fishes were
affraide of the white bankes of the City; the Captaine Pausanias
left that place, and builded Bizantium in Thracia, which first was by
him intituled Ligos. By Pliny, Justine, and Strabo, it was surnamed
Urbs Illustrissima, because it is repleate with all the blessings,
earth can give to man; yea and in the most fertile soyle of Europe.
Zonoras reporteth that the Athenians, in an ambitious and insatiable
desire of Soveraignty, wonne it from the Lacedemonians: They thus
being vanquished, suborned Severus the Romane Emperour, to besiege
the same: But the City Bizantium being strongly fortified with walles,
the Romanes could not take it in, untill extreame famine constrained
them to yeeld, after three yeares siege: and Severus to satisfie his
cruelty, put all to the sword, that were within, and razed the walles,
giving it in possession to the neighbouring Perinthians. This Citie
thus remained in calamitie, [Bizantium reedified by Constantine.] till
Constantine (resigning the City of Rome, and a great part of Italy
to the Popish inheritance or the Romane Bishops) reedified the same,
and translated his Imperiall seate in the East, and reduced all the
Empire of Greece, to a unite tranquilitie, with immortall reputation,
which the Parthians and Persians had so miserably disquieted.
But these disorders at length reformed by the severe administration of
Justice, for the which, and other worthy respects, the said Constantine
sonne of Saint Helen, and Emperour of Rome (which afterward the
Pope usurped) was surnamed the Great. He first in his plantation
called this Citie new Rome; but when he beheld the flourishing,
and multiplying of all things in it, and because of the commodious
situation thereof, he called it Constantinoplis, after his owne
name. This Emperour lived there many prosperous yeares, in most happy
estate: likewise many of his successors did, untill such time, that
Mahomet the second of that name, and Emperour of the Turkes; living in
a discontented humour to behold the great and glorious dominions of
Christians; especially this famous Citie, that so flourished in his
eyes, by momentall circumstances, collected his cruell intentions,
to the full height of ambition; whereby he might abolish the very
name of Christianity, and also puft up with a presumptuous desire,
to inlarge his Empire, went with a marvellous power, both by Sea and
Land, unto this magnificent Mansion.
The issue whereof was such, that after divers batteries and assaults,
the irreligious Infidels broke downe the walles, and entred the City,
which breach was about forty paces long, as by the new colour being
built up againe, is easily knowne from the old walles: where when
they entered, they made a wonderfull massacre of poore afflicted
Christians, without sparing any of the Romane kinde, either male or
female. In the mercilesse fury of these Infernall Impes, the Emperour
Constantine was killed, whose head being cut off, was carried upon
the point of a Launce through all the City, and Campe of the Turkes,
to the great disgrace and ignominy of Christianity. His Empresse,
Daughters, and other Ladies after they were abused in their bodyes,
were put to death in a most cruell and terrible manner.
By this overthrow of Constantinople, this Mahomet tooke twelve
Kingdomes, and two hundred Cities from the Christians, which is
a lamentable losse, of such an illustrious Empire. Thus was that
imperiall Citie lost, in the yeare 1453. May 29. when it had remained
under the government of Christians, 1198. yeares. It is now the chiefe
abode of the great Turke Sultan Achmet, the fifteene Grand Cham, or the
line of Ottoman, who was then about twenty three yeares of age; whose
sonne [Foure Emperours one after another distressed.] Osman since,
and after his death, was murdered by the Janizaries, being 14. yeares
of age, after his returne to Constantinople from Podolia in Polland:
And in his place, his Unkle Mustaffa made Emperour, whose weaknesse
and unworthinesse being eft soones discoverd, he was displaced, and
Amurath Osmans brother made Grand Signior, who presently raigneth, and
not without great feare of his Janizaries and Timariots, who twice in
three yeares have lately made insurrection against him. This Emperour
Achmet, who was alive when I was there, was more given to venery,
then martialitie, which gave a greater advantage to the Persians in
their defensive Warres.
Concerning the Empire, we may observe some fatall contrarieties in
one and the same name: For Phillip the Father of Alexander, layd the
first foundation of the Macedonian Monarchy, and Phillip the Father
of Perseus ruined it. [Contrarieties of fortune.] So was this Towne
built by a Constantine, the Sonne of Helena, a Gregory being Patriarch;
and was lost by a Constantine, the sonne of a Helena, a Gregory being
also Patriarch. The Turkes have a Prophecy, that as it was wonne by
a Mahomet, so it shall be lost by a Mahomet.
The forme, or situation of this Citty, is like unto a Triangle, the
South part whereof, and the East part, are invironed with Hellespontus,
and Bosphorus Thraicus; and the North part adjoyning to the firme
land. It is in compasse about the walles, esteemed to be eighteene
miles: in one of these triangled points, being the South-east part,
and at the joyning of Bosphore and Hellespont, standeth the Pallace of
the Great Turke, called Seralia, and the Forrest wherein he hunteth;
which is two miles in length.
The speciall object of Antiquity, I saw within this Citty, was the
incomparable Church of Saint Sophia, whose ornaments and hallowed
vessels, were innumerable in the time of Justinian the Emperour, who
first builded it; but now converted to a Moskuee, and consecrate to
Mahomet, after a diabolicall manner.
[Hyppodrome.] I saw also the famous Hyppodrome, and the Theater whereon
the people stood, when the Emperours used to runne their Horses, and
make their Princely shewes on solemne dayes, which is now altogether
decayd: There is a great Columne in that same place, in the which
all these things memorable, that have bene done in this Hyppodrome,
are superficially carved.
Upon the West corner of the Citty, there is a strong Fortresse,
fortified with seaven great Towers, and well furnished with Munition,
called by Turkes, Jadileke: In this Prison, are Bassawes, and
Subbassawes imprisoned, and also great men of Christians, if any
offence be committed. Their place of Exchange is called Bezastan,
wherein all sorts of commodities are to be sold; as Sattins, Silkes,
Velvets, Cloth of Silver and Gold, and the most exquisitely wrought
Hand-kerchiefes, that can be found in the world; with infinite other
commodities, the relation of which would be tedious.
I have seene men and women as usually sold here in Markets, as Horses
and other beasts are with us: The most part of which are Hungarians,
Transilvanians, Carindians, Istrians, and Dalmatian Captives,
and of other places besides, which they can overcome. Whom, if no
compassionable Christian will buy, or relieve; then must they either
turne Turke, or be addicted to perpetuall slavery. Here I remember of
a charitable deede, done for a sinfull end, and thus it was; A Ship
of Marseilles, called the great Dolphin, lying here forty dayes at
the Galata, [A French palliard.] the Maister Gunner, named Monsieur
Nerack, and I falling in familiar acquaintance, upon a time he told me
secretly that he would gladly for Conscience and Merits sake, redeeme
some poore Christian slave from Turkish Captivity. To the which,
I applauded his advice, and told him the next Friday following I
would assist him to so worthy an action: Friday comes, and he and
I went for Constantinople, where the Market of the slaves being
ready, we spent two houres in viewing, and reviewing five hundreth
Males and Females. At last I pointed him to have bought an old man
or woman, but his minde was contrary set, shewing me that he would
buy some virgin, or young widdow, to save their bodies undefloured
with Infidels. The price of a virgin was too deare for him, being a
hundred Duckets, and widdows were farre under, and at an easier rate:
When we did visite and search them that we were mindfull to buy, they
were strip'd starke naked before our eyes, where the sweetest face,
the youngest age, and whitest skin was in greatest value and request:
The Jewes sold them, for they had bought them from the Turkes: At
last we fell upon a Dalmatian widdow, whose pittifull lookes, and
sprinkling teares, stroke my soule almost to the death for compassion:
whereupon I grew earnest for her reliefe, and he yeelding to my advice,
she is bought and delivered unto him, the man being 60. yeares of age,
and her price 36. Duckets. We leave the market and came over againe
to Galata, where he and I tooke a Chamber for her, and leaving them
there, the next morning I returned earely, suspecting greatly the
dissembling devotion of the Gunner to be nought but luxurious lust,
and so it proved: I knocked at the Chamber doore, that he had newly
locked, and taken the key with him to the ship, for he had tarried
with her all that night; and she answering me with teares, told
me all the manner of his usage, wishing her selfe to be againe in
her former captivity: whereupon I went a shipboord to him, & in my
griefe I swore, that if he abused her any more after that manner,
and not returned to her distresse, her Christian liberty; I would
first make it knowne to his Maister the Captaine of the ship, and
then to the French Ambassadour: for he was mindfull also, his lust
being satisfied to have sold her over againe to some other: At which
threatning the old Pallyard became so fearefull, that he entred in
a reasonable condition with me, and the ship departing thence sixe
dayes thereafter, he freely resigned to me her life, her liberty and
freedome: which being done, and he gone, under my hand before divers
Greekes, I [The Dalmatian Widdow relieved.] subscribed her libertie,
and hyr'd her in the same Taverne for a yeare, taking nothing from her,
for as little had she to give me, except many blessings and thankefull
prayers: This French Gunner was a Papist, and heare you may behold
the dregs of his devotion, and what seven nights leachery cost him,
you may cast up the reckoning of 36. Duckets.
In Constantinople there have happened many fearefull fires, which often
hath consumed to ashes the most part of the rarest Monuments there,
and the beauty of infinite Pallaces; as Zonoras the Constantinopolitan
Historiographer in his Histories mentioneth. And now lately in
the yeare 1607. October 14. there were burned above 3000. houses,
of which I saw a number of ruines (as yet) [Pestilence and Earth
quakes.] unrepaired. It is subject also to divers Earth quakes, which
have often subverted the Towers, Houses, Churches, and Walles of the
City to the ground. Especially in the yeare 1509. in the raigne of
Bajazeth, the ninth Emperour of the Turkes, in which time, more then
13000. persons were all smothered and dead, and laid up in heapes
unburied. And commonly every third yeare, the pestilence is exceeding
great in that City, and after such an odious manner; that those who
are infected (before they die) have the halfe of their one side rot,
and fall away: so that you may easily discerne the whole intrailes of
their bowels. It is not licentiated here, nor else where in all Turkey,
that any Christian should enter in their Moskies, or Churches, without
the conduct of a Janisary; the tryall whereof I had when I viewed
that glorious and great Church of Sancta Sophia, once the beauty
and ornament of all Europe; and is now the chiefe place, to which
the Great Turke or Emperour goeth every Friday, their Sabboth day to
doe his devotion, being accompanied with 3000. Janisaries, besides
Bashawes, Chowses and Hagars. Truely I may say of Constantinople,
as I said once of the world, in the Lamentado of my second Pilgrimage;
A painted Whoore, the maske of deadly sin,
Sweet faire without, and stinking foule within.
For indeed outwardly it hath the fairest show, and inwardly in the
streets being narrow, and most part covered, the filthiest & deformed
buildings in the world; the reason of its beauty, is, because being
situate on moderate prospective heights, the universall tectures,
a farre off, yeeld a delectable show, the covertures being erected
like the backe of a Coach after the Italian fashion with gutterd
tyle. But being entred within, there is nothing but a stinking
deformity, and a loathsome contrived place; without either internall
domesticke furniture, or externall decorements of fabricks palatiatly
extended. Notwithstanding that for its situation, the delicious wines,
& fruits, the temperate climat, the fertile circumjacent fields,
and for the Sea Hellespont, and pleasant Asia on the other side:
it may truely be called the Paradice of the earth.
Perah is over against Constantinople, called of old, Cornubizantii;
but by the Turkes, Galata, being both a quarter of a mile distant,
and the Thraick Bosphore dividing the two. It is the place at
which Christian Ships touch, and where [The Christian Ambassadours
at Perah.] the Ambassadours of Christendome lie. The number of the
Christian Ambassadours that then lay there, and now doe, were these,
first the Romane Emperours, then the French, thirdly the English,
fourthly the Venetian, and lastly the Holland Ambassadours, with
whom often for discourses I was familiar, although with Noble Sir
Thomas Glover I was still domestick for 12. weekes, whose Secretary
for that time was my Countrey man, Maister James Rollocke, who now,
as I take it, is resident in Striveling; he was the last Scotsman I
saw till my returne to Malta after my departure from Constantinople.
From thence I went to the blacke Sea: but commonly Mare Euxinum, where
I saw [Pompeyes Pillar.] Pompeyes Pillar of Marble, standing neere the
shoare, upon a rocky Iland: and not far from thence, is a Lanthorne
higher then any Steeple, whereon there is a panne full of liquor,
that burneth every night to give warning unto ships how neare they
come the shore; It is not much unlike these Lanthornes of Ligorne and
Genua. The water of this Sea is never a whit blacker then other Seas:
but it is called blacke, in respect of the dangerous events in darke
and tempestuous nights, which happen there; and because of the Rockes
and Sands which lye a great way from the maine shore: upon which
many vessels many times are cast away. The blacke Sea is not farre
from Galata, for I both went and returned in one day, being forty
miles out, and in: For I went by boate, and not by land, through the
pleasant Euripus, that runneth betweene the Euxine Sea and Hellespont:
And by the way, I cannot but regrate, the great losse Sir Thomas Glover
received by the Duke of Moldavia, who chargeably entertained him two
yeares in his house, and furnished him with great moneys, and other
necessaries fit for his eminency: This Duke or Prince of Bugdonia
was depraved of his Principalities by Achmet, and fled hither to the
Christian Ambassadours for reliefe: To whom when all the rest had
refus'd acceptance, onely Noble Sir Thomas received him, maintained
him, and seriously wrought with the Grand Signior and his Counsell,
to have had him restored againe to his Lands, but could not prevaile.
In the end, Sir Thomas Glovers five yeares time of Ambassodry being
expired, and the Duke hearing privately that Sir Paul Pinder was
to come in his place, as indeede he came too soone: this Moldavian
Prince stole earely away in the morning over to Constantinople; and
[The Duke of Moldavia turnd Turke.] long or midday turnd Turke, and
was circumcised, contenting himselfe onely for all his great Dukedome,
with a Palace, and a yearely pension of twelve thousand Chickens of
Gold during his life. Which, when we heard, the Ambassadour, and we
were all amazed and discontented: He was indebted to the Ambassadour
above 15. thousand Chickens of Gold, yet or my leaving Galata, I went
twice over with Sir Thomas, and saw him, and found him attended with
a number of Turkes, who when he saw me, tooke me kindly by the hand,
for we had bene two moneths familiar in the Ambassadors house before.
The English Ambassador within halfe a yeare, recovered the halfe
of his moneys, the other halfe he was forced to forgoe for diverse
importunate respects. Nay, I must say one thing more of this Knight,
he releeved more slaves from the Galleys, payd their ransomes, and
sent them home freely to their Christian stations, and kept a better
house, than any Ambassadour did, that ever lay at Constantinople,
or ever shall to the worlds end.
His mother was a Pollonian, who comming from Dansicke to London,
was delivered of him upon the Sea: Afterward he was brought up
at Constantinople from a boy, and spoke, and wrot the Slavonian
Tongue perfectly: And thence returning for London, he was the first
Ambassador King James, of blessed Memory, sent to Constantinople,
after his comming to the Crowne of England: And this much for this
worthy and ever renowned Knight, whose prayse and fame I cannot too
much celebrate.
The Turkes have no Bels in their Churches, neither the use of a clocke,
nor numbring of houres, but they have high round Steeples, for they
contrafact, and contradict all the formes of Christians: when they
goe to pray, they are called together by the voyce of crying men,
who goe upon the bartizings of their Steeples, shouting and crying
with a shrill voyce: La illa, Eillalla, Mahomet Rezul allah, that is:
God is a great God, and Mahomet is his Prophet, or otherwise there
is but one God.
In Constantinople, and all other places of Turky, I ever saw three
Sabboths together, in one weeke: The Friday for the Turkes, the
Saturday for Jewes, and the Sunday for Christians: but the Turkes
Sabboth is worst kept of all: for they will not spare to do any labour
on their Holy Day. They have meetings at their publicke Prayers,
[Times of Turkish prayers.] every day five severall times: the first
is, before the rising of the Sunne: The second is, a little before
midday: The third is, at three of the clocke in the afternoone: The
fourth is, at the Sunne-setting, Sommer and Winter: Fifthly, the last
howre of Prayer, is alwayes two or three howres within night. Many of
them will watch till that time, and not sleepe; and others sleeping,
will awake at the voyce of the Cryer, and go to Church.
In signe of reverence, and in a superstitious devotion, before
they go into their Mosquees, they wash themselves in a Lavotoio,
beginning at the privy members, next their mouthes faces, feete and
hands: And entring, they incline their heads downeward to the earth;
and falling on their knees, do kisse the ground three times. Then the
Talasumany, which is the chiefe Priest, mounteth upon a high stone,
where he maketh many Orations to Mahomet: and the rest to assist him,
continue a long time shaking their heads, as though they were out of
all their naturall understanding, repeating oft this word Haylamo,
Haylamo; and after that will sigh grievously, saying, Houpek. And
sometimes will abruptly sing the Psalmes of David in the Arabick
tongue, but to no sense, nor verity of the Scriptures. And at their
devotion, they will not tollerate any women in their company, lest they
should withdraw their minds and affections from their present zeale:
But the men observe their turnes and times, and the women theirs,
going alwayes when they goe, either of them alone to their devotion:
The like custome, but not after the same manner have I seene observed
among the Protestants in Transilvania, Hungaria, Moravia, Bohemia,
and Silesia, who when they come to Church on the Sabboth day, there
is a Taffaty Curtaine drawne from the Pulpit to the Church wall over
against it: The men sitting on the right hand of the Preacher, the
women on the left; whose eyes and faces cannot see other during divine
Service, save only the Minister that over-toppeth both sides; and
truly me thought it was a very modest, and necessary observation. [The
Turkes are circumcised.] The Turks are generally circumcised after the
manner of the Jewes, but not after 8. dayes, but after 8. yeares. The
Church men are called Hadach Casseis, or Darvises, who weare on their
heads greene Shashes, to make distinction betweene them and others:
for they are accounted to be of Mahomets kindred.
They hold all mad men in great reverence, as Prophets or Saints, &
if they intend any far journey, privat purposes, or otherwise, before
they go to battell, they come to crave counsell of these Santones, to
know if they shall prosper, or not, in their attempts. And whatsoever
answer these Bedleem Prophets give, it is holden to be so credible,
as if an Oracle had spoken it. The Turkish Priests are for the most
part Moores, whom they account to be a base people in respect of
themselves, calling them Totseks: Their principall Church governour
is called Mufti, Whose definitive sentence in Lawe or Religion is
penetrable, and absolutely valiant: Neither abaseth he himselfe to
sit in the Divano, nor affordeth more reverence to the Emperour, than
he to him. [The Turkish Church-men.] The other sort of Church-men are
the Naipi or young Doctors, the Caddi, whereof there is two or three
in every Citty to judge the offences; the Calsi or Readers, and the
Mudressi which use to oversee the Cadeis in their Office: They were all
formerly Idolatrous Pagans, and were fast initiated in Mahometanisme,
when they got the Soveraignty of the Persian Scepter; by the great
Battell, and fortunate conduct of Tangrolipix in overthrowing Mahomet a
Saracenicall Sultan of Persia; who inthronized himselfe, in the Persian
Chayre of Estate, Anno 1030. This prerogative Title of Mufti, was first
intituled Caliph, whose residence was in Babylon, and wholly supreme
over the Mahometans: But the Ægyptians after the death of Mot adi Bila,
withdrew themselves from this Babylonian obedience, and choosed one
of their owne, to whom the Moores of Barbary submitted themselves.
[Babylon recovered by the Persians.] But now since Bagdat, or Babylon
hath beene recovered by the Persians, about foure yeares agoe, their
Mahometanicall Mufti or Caliph, that then was Resident there, is now
retired to Constantinople, where he sitteth in a more securer place,
thinking rather to follow the Grandeur of the Turke, than the broken
Estate of the Persian, whence I may truly say, he is Fortunes Page,
that favoureth them most, who have most favourers.
This unwealdy body having two heads, began to decline; for Allan a
Tartarian Captaine, starved Mustatzem the last divided Babylonian
Caliph to death and rooted out all his posterity: And then Sarancon
the first Turkish King in Ægypt, brained the last Ægyptian Caliph
with his Mace, leaving none of the issue, or Kindred surviving. The
Office of the Caliph is now executed in Turkey, under the name Muphti,
or high Priest. All Turkes do detest the colour of blacke, and thinke
those that weare it, shall never enter into Paradise: But the colour of
greatest request among them is greene; wherewith if any Christian be
apparrelled, he shall be sure of Bastinadoes, and other punishments:
Neither may he use the name of their Prophet Mahomet in his mouth,
(under the paine of a cruell censure to be inflicted upon him) whom
they so much adore, and honour.
[Mahomets birth.] This Mahomet was borne, Anno Dom. 591. in Itraripia,
a beggarly Village in Arabia, whose father was Abdillas, an Ismaelite;
and his mother Cadiges, a Jew; both different in Religion, and also
of diverse Countries: In his youth he was partly taught the Judaicall
Law, and partly the superstition of the Gentiles. Many alleadge his
parentage was never knowne (being so base) untill his riper yeares
bewrayed the same, I also learned that his Parents dyed whiles he
was a young child, and was turned over to his Unckle, who afterward
sold him to one Abdeminoples, a Merchant in Palestina: And he, after
a little time, having remarked his ready and prompt wit, sent him
downe to Ægypt, to be a Factor in his Merchandise; where, by his
dissimulate behaviour, he crept in favour with Christians, Jewes,
and Gentiles. He was in proportion of a meane stature, lively faced,
big-headed, eloquent in language, of a sanguinicall complexion, and a
couragious stomacke, in all attempts exceeding desperate: he was also
deceitfull, variant, and fradulent, as may appeare in his Satanicall
Fables, expressed in his Alcoran, where oft one saying contradicteth
another, both in words, and effect.
About this time there was one Sergius, an Italian borne, banished from
Constantinople, because he allowed of the Arrian sect; who afterward
came to Palestina, and frequenting the house of Abdeminoples, fell
in acquaintance with the young man Mahomet; and this Frier perceiving
the aspiring quicknes of his braine, bore a great affection
to his naturall perfections. Shortly after this, his Maister dying
without heires, and his Mistresse enjoying many rich possessions; she,
for these his extraordinary qualities, from the degree of a Servant,
advanced him to be her owne Husband.
That unhappy match was no sooner done but she repented it with teares:
[Mahomet possessed with the falling sicknes.] for he being subject to
the falling sicknesse, would often fall flat on the ground before her,
staring, gaping, and foaming at the mouth; so that his company became
loathsome and detestable. The which begun contempt in his bed-fellow;
being to him manifested, he strove (under the shaddow of invented lies)
to mitigate the fury of her hatefull disdaine; faining, and attesting,
that when he fell to the ground, it was the great God spoke with him,
before whose face (sayth he) I am not able to stand; such is the
soliciting of me, with words of terrour and Majesty, to reforme the
wayes of the degenerate people with fire, and sword; sith Moses and
Christ (notwithstanding of their miracles) have beene rejected by the
world. The old Trot, believing all these flattering speeches, was not
onely appeased of her former conceit, but also loving him more then a
husband, reverenced him for a divine Prophet; imparting the same unto
her neighbours and gossips. After they had lived two yeares together,
the bewitched Matron dying, left all her possessions to Mahomet;
both because she accounted him to be a Prophet, and next for that
loving regard she had of his tender body, being but 30. yeares of
age. He being thus left with great riches, was puft up in pride,
and hauty desires, striving by all inordinary meanes, to bring his
new devised plots to perfection. For the better performance whereof,
he consulted with this Sergius a Nestorian Monk, and Atodala another
Thalmudist, a diverted Jew; hereupon these two helhounds, and the other
perverst Runagate, patched up a most monstrous, and divellish Religion
to themselves, and to their miscreant beleevers; partly composed of
the Judaicall law, partly of Arrianisme, partly intermixed with some
points of Christianity; and partly of other fantasticall fopperies,
which his owne invention suggested unto him.
The Booke of this Religion is named the Alcoran, the whole body of
which, is but an exposition, and glosse on the eight commandements
he affixed; whereupon dependeth [The Law of Mahomet.] the whole
Mahometanicall Law: First, every one ought to beleeve that God is a
great God, and onely God, and Mahomet is his Prophet. Secondly, every
man must marry to encrease the Sectaries of Mahomet: Thirdly, every
one must give of his wealth to the poore: Fourthly, every one must
make his prayers seaven times a day: Fiftly, every one must keepe a
Lent, one moneth in the yeare, this Lent is called Birham, or Ramazan:
Sixtly, Be obedient to thy Parents; which Law is so neglected, that
never any children were, or are more unnaturall then the Turkish be:
Seaventhly, thou shalt not kill, which they inviolable keepe amongst
themselves; but the poore Christians feele the smart thereof. Last
and eightly, Doe unto others, as thou wouldst be done unto thy selfe,
the performers of which have large Sophisticall promises ascribed them.
This new coyned doctrine, was no sooner wrapt up in his execrable
Alcoran, but he began to spit forth his abhominable and blasphemous
heresies: Affirming, that Christ was not the sonne of the most high,
nor that Messias looked for; denying also the Trinity, with many other
prophane blasphemies. The worke concluded, for the better advancement
of his purpose, he married the daughter of the chiefe Prince of his
owne tribe: By which new affinity, he not onely seduced his Father in
law, but also the whole linage of that family; by whose acceptance,
and conversion, he also confederated with other associates, and waxed
dayly stronger. Contending continually to divulgate his name, aye
more and more, he assembled his new Alcoranists: exhorting them to
assist him in the besieging of Mecha, which Citizens had in derision
rebuked his law, and absolutely disdained his Mahometanicall illusions:
and promised to them, in such a well deserving attempt, both eternall
felicity, and the spoiles of these his contradictors; perswasively
assuring them, that God would deliver all the gaine-sayers of his
Alcoran into his hands. By which allurements they being moved,
rose to the number of 3000. in Armes, and menaced Mecha, but the
Citizens put him to flight, and so was he thrice served; till in the
end he wonne their City: wherein after his death [Mahomets Tombe.] he
was intombed in an Iron Coffin: Which betweene two Adamants hangeth
to this day (as I have been informed of sundry Turkes, who saw it)
which confirmed in them a solid beliefe of his erronious doctrine.
But now of late the Turkes growing more circumspect then they were,
and understanding the derision of Christianes concerning their hanging
Tombe, and because the Turkish Pilgrimes were often suffocate to death,
with a fabulous desart in going to Mecha; they have transported
Mahomets Tombe now to Medina; which is a great deale nearer to
Damascus, and at the entry of Arabia foelix; in a glorious Mosquee,
where the Tombe being close ground set, and richly covered with a
golden Cannopy; they have inhibited that any Christian shall come
neare to it by two courses, to wit. twenty foure miles, under the
payne of death: which indeed they keepe more strictly in execution,
then Princely Proclamations are obeyed, observed, or regarded with us;
either for regall statutes, or generall benefits of Common-wealth:
their continuance being but like the miracle of nine daies wonder;
returne againe from whence they came frustrat of power, and robbed of
obedience. From this time that he vanquished Mecha, casting out the
Greeke Officers, (for then all Arabia was under the Constantinopolitan
Empire) the Saracens began their computation of yeares (as we from
Christs Nativity) which they call Hegira, and begunne about the yeare
of our Redemption, 617. Concerning which time, that Mahomet compiled
his divellish Alcoran, beginning his Empire; nigh about the same
time it is observed that Boniface the third begun his Empire, and
Antechristian title, for Phocas having killed the Emperour Mauritius,
his Wife and children: To secure himselfe of Italy, ready to revolt
from such a Tyrant, made Boniface universall Bishop and head of
the Church.
This Boniface was the threescore and fourth Bishop, & [The first
title of Popes.] first Pope of Rome: Which was immediatly thereafter
confirmed by Puppin the French King, who also had murdered his
Master and Prince; and lastly was ratified by Paleologus, whose
sonne Constantine about 14. yeares thereafter, had his head stroake
off, his wife and daughters put to cruell death, his Empire quite
subverted, in the losse of 12. Kingdomes, and 200. Cities, being
the just judgements of God upon the sonne, for the fathers sake, who
assigned such an ambitious charge unto that perverse Papality: After
which predominant titles and falsified power, what long controversies
and disputes were betweene the Pope, and the Councels of Carthage,
Calcedon, Ephesus, Allexandria, and Nyce. This Papall prerogative
begun with bloud, and murther, continueth in bloud, and massacres, and
(doubtlesse) in the ende shall perish, and be confounded with bloud,
and abhominable destruction.
And what great debate was of old by the Romane Emperours, in abolishing
out of their Churches, the Images and Idols of Stone, Iron, & Timber,
&c. that for many hundreth yeares they were not suffered to be
seene: And at the beginning of the Papality, and a long time after,
the Emperours prohibite them, and diverse Popes have confirmed,
and approved the same: Yet succeeding Popes, and the Empire being
divided in East and West, introducted againe, the dregs of their olde
Hethnish and [Romish Idolatry.] Romane Idolatry: and yet they will not
be content with the bare name of Images, but they impose a surname
or epithite of sanctity, tearming them holy Images. Truely I may
say, if it were not for these Images, and superstitious Idolatries,
they assigne to them, the Turkes had long agoe bene converted to the
Christian Faith.
I have seene sometimes two thousand Turkes travelling [Turkish
Pilgrimes.] to Mecha, in Pilgrimage; which is in Arabia felix: where
many in a superstitious devotion, having seene the Tombe of Mahomet,
are never desirous to see the vanities of the World againe: For in
a franticke piety they cause a Smith to pull forth their eyes: And
these men are called afterward Hoggeis, that is, Holy men, whom the
Turkes much honour, and regard: and are alwayes led about from towne
to towne by mens hands, and fed, and regarded like unto Princes; or
like the Capushines that scourge themselves on good Friday, met, and
homaged at every passing Streete, with prayers, gifts, and adorations.
Some write, that Mahomet in his youth was a Souldier, under the conduct
of Heraclius, who imploying certaine Arabians in an expedition to
Persia, not onely denied them their wages, but told them, that,
that was not to be given for dogges, which was provided for the
Romane Souldiers. Hence some mutinies arrising in the Army, he, with
certaine Arabians, his Country-men, by faction, separated themselves,
and revolted: Whereupon Mahomet, encouraging them in their defection,
was chosen their Captaine; and so for a certaine time they continued
rebellious Runnagates, Theeves, and Robbers of all people. The subtilty
of this dissembler was admirable; who knowing that he was destitute of
heavenly gifts, to worke miracles, feignd, that God sent him with the
sword: He also promised, at the end of a thousand yeares to returne,
and bring them to Paradice; [Mahomet hath broke his promise.] but
he hath falsified his promise, for the time is expired forty yeares
ago. And they imagining, that he is either diseased, or become lame in
his journey, have ascribed to him another thousand yeares to come. But
long may their wicked and faithlesse generation gape, before he come,
untill such time, that in a generall convocation, they be partakers
of his endlesse damnation in Hell; unlesse it please the Lord in his
mercy to convert them before that time.
Mahomet, chiefly prohibiteth in his Alcoran, the eating of Swines
flesh, and drinking of Wine, which indeed the best sort do, but
the baser kind are dayly drunkards: Their common drinke is Sherpet,
composed of Water, Honey, and Sugar, which is exceeding delectable in
the taste: And the usuall courtesie, they bestow on their friends, who
visite them, is a Cup of Coffa, made of a kind of seed called Coava,
and of a blackish colour; which they drinke so hote as possible they
can, and is good to expell the crudity of raw meates, and hearbes,
so much by them frequented. And those that cannot attaine to this
liquor, must be contented with the cooling streames of water.
[Oppression of Turkes.] It is incident to Turkes, which have not
the generosity of mind to temper felicity, to be glutted with the
superfluous fruites of doubtfull prosperity. Neither have they a
patient resolution to withstand adversity, nor hope to expect the
better alteration of time. But by an infused malice in their wicked
spirits, when they are any way calamited, will with importunate
compulsion, cause the poore slavish subjected Christians, surrender all
they have, the halfe, or so forth, sometimes with strokes, menacings,
and sometimes death it selfe; which plainely doth demonstrate their
excessive cruelty, and the poore Christians inevitable misery. And
yet being complained upon, they are severely punished, or else put
to death, for committing of such unallowable Ryots, being expresly
against the Imperiall Law of the Turke, concerning the quietnesse
and liberty of the Christians.
I have often heard Turkes brawle one with another most vilely,
but I never saw, or heard, that they either in private or publicke
quarrels, durst strike one another, neither dare they for feare of
severe punishment, imposed to such quarrellors: But they will injure
and strike Christians, who dare not say it is amisse, or strike
againe. It is a common thing with them, to kill their servants for a
very small offence, and when they have done, throw them like dogges
in a ditch. And oftentimes (if not so) will lay them downe on their
backes, hoysing up their heeles, bind their feete together, and
fasten them to a post, and with a cudgell give them three or foure
hundreth blowes on the soles of their feete: Whereupon peradventure,
some ever go lame after. Their servants are bought and sold, like
bruite beasts in Markets; neither can these miserable drudges ever
recover liberty, except they buy themselves free, either by one meane
or other. Their wives are not farre from the like servitude, for the
men by the Alcoran, are admitted to marry as many women as they will,
or their ability can keepe. And if it shall happen, that any one
of these women (I meane either wife or Concubine) prostituteth her
selfe to an other man besides her husband; then may he, by authority,
bind her hands and feete, hang a stone about her necke, and cast her
into a River, which by them is usually done in the night.
But when these Infidels please to abuse poore Christian women against
their husbands will, they little regard the transgression of the
Christian Law; who as well defloure their daughters, as their wives;
yet the devout Mahometans never meddle with them, accompting themselves
damned to copulate (as they thinke) with the offspring of dogges. The
Turkes generally, when they commit any copulation with Christians,
or their owne sexe, they wash themselves in a South running fountaine,
before the Sun rising, thinking thereby to wash away their sinnes.
[The Turkes Justice.] If a Turke should happen to kill another Turke,
his punishment is thus; after he is adjudged to death, he is brought
forth to the market place, and a blocke being brought hither of foure
foote high; the malefactor is stripd naked; and then layd thereupon
with his belly downeward, they drawe in his middle together so small
with running cords, that they strike his body a two with one blow:
his hinder parts they cast to be eaten by hungry dogges kept for
the same purpose; and the forequarters and head they throw into a
grievous fire, made there for the same end: and this is the punishment
for man-slaughter.
But for murder or treason he is more cruelly used, for being convicted
& condemned, he is brought forth before the people, where in the street
there is an exceeding high Stripad erected, much like to a May-pole:
which tree from the roote, till it almost come to the top, is all
set about full of long sharpe iron pikes, and their poynts upward:
The Villaine being strip'd naked, and his hands bound backward, they
bind a strong rope about his shoulders and cleavings: And then hoysing
him up to the pillow or top of the tree, they let the rope flee loose,
whence downe he falles, with a rattle, among the iron pykes, hanging
either by the buttocks, by the breasts, by the sides, or shoulders;
and there sticking fast in the ayre, he hangeth till his very bones rot
and fall downe, and his body be devoured being quicke, with ravenous
Eagles, kept to prey upon his carkas for the same purpose.
[Turkish marriages.] But now I come to their nuptiall rites, their
custome and manner of marriage is thus: If a man affecteth a yong
mayd, he buyeth her of her parents, and giveth a good summe of money
for her, and after she is bought, he enrolles her name in the Cadies
Booke, witnessing she is his bound wife, bought of her father. Loe,
this is all the forme of their marriage: This being done, the father
of the woman sendeth houshold-stuffe home with the Bride; which is
carried through the streets on Mulets or Camells backes, the two new
married folkes marching before, are conveyed with musicke, their owne
acquaintance, and friends unto his house.
The Turkes in generall, whensoever they loath or dislike their
wives, use to sell them in markets, or otherwise bestow them on
their men-slaves: And although their affection were never so great
towards them, yet they never eate together, for commonly the women
stand, and serve their husbands at meate, and after that, they eate
a part by themselves, secretly; without admission of any mankind in
their company, if they be above foureteene yeares of age. They goe
seldome abroad, unlesse it be each Thursday at night, when they goe
to the Graves to mourne for the dead, alwayes covering their faces,
very modestly with white or blacke masks, which are never uncovered,
till they returne to their houses. Many other ceremonies they have,
which would be too prolixe for me to recite. And notwithstanding of
all this externall gravity, amongst these hirelings, yet there are in
Constantinople above 40000. brothel-houses, Turqueski as Libertines;
in any of which, if a Christian (especially Francks) be apprehended,
he must either turne Turke, or Slave all his life: But the women by
policy apply a counter-poyson to this severity, for they accustomably
come to the Chambers of their Benefactors and well-willers, or other
places appointed secretly, whereso they learne either a French Syncopa,
or an Italian Bergamasko.
[The Emperors Concubines.] As for the great Turkes Concubines,
they are of number eight hundred, being the most part Emeeres,
Bashawes, and Timariots daughters: The third and inmost part of
the Seraglia is allotted for their residence, being well attended
at all times with numbers of Enuches, and other gelded officers:
Every morning they are ranked in a great Hall, and set on high and
open seats: where when he commeth, and selecting the youngest and
fairest, he toucheth her with a rod; and immediately she followeth
him into his cabine of leachery, where if any action be done, shee
receiveth from the Head-Clarke her approbation thereupon, which ever
afterwards serveth her for a conditionall dowry to her marriage, with
much honour and reputation besides: And if any of them conceave,
and the child borne, it is suddenly dispatched from this life:
[A hundred Concubines changed every moneth.] The oldest hundreth,
every first Friday of the moneth are turned out, and another new
hundred come in to make good the number: Their entrie and issue is
alwayes at one of the posterne gates of the Parke, toward the sea
side, and joyning nigh to their Pallace: Whence crossing Bosphore,
in an appointed barge, they both goe and come in one day, from
and to the Galata, which I my selfe did see three several times:
The oldest and last hundred that are every moneth dismissed, they
depart from the Galata, home to their Parents and severall Countreys,
rejoycing that they were counted worthy to be chosen and entertained
to be their Emperours Concubines. The custome of the great Turke
is, every Friday being their Sabboth day after divine service and
dinner, to run at the Glove in a open place before all the people,
with some Hagars, or yong striplings that accompany him; who have the
Glove hanging as high on a sticke, as we have the ring with us: And
truely of all the Turkish Emperours that ever were, this Achmet was
the most gentle & favourable to Christians; who rather for his bounty
and tendernesse might have beene intitulated the Christian Emperour,
then the Pagane King: for he dissanulled all the exactions that had
beene inflicted by his predecessors upon his tributarie Christian
subjects; and cancelled the custome or tythe of their Male children,
abrogating also that imposition on their Female dowries.
The Lent of the Turkes is called Byrham, which continueth the space
of a moneth once in the yeare: In all which time, from the Sunne
rising to his setting, they neither eate nor drinke: And at their
prayers (especially in this fasting) they use often to reiterate
these words Hue, hue, hue, that is; He, he, he, alone is God; or,
There is but one onely supreme Power; which they doe in derision of
Christians, who (as they say) adore three Gods. They have also this
sinister opinion, that at the day of Judgement, when Mahomet shall
appeare, there shall be three displayed Banners, under the which all
good [The Turkes Paradise.] people shall be conducted to Paradise:
The one of Moses, under the which the children of Israel shall be:
The second of Jesus, under which Christians shall be: The third of
Mahomet, under the which shall be the Arabs, Turkes, and Musilmans:
All which, they thinke, shall be elevated to severall honours; and
they in promotion shall be discerned from the rest, by Chambers made
of resplendant light, which God will give them; wherein they shall
have banquetings, feastings, dancing, and the best melody can be
devised; and that they shall spend their times with amorous Virgins,
(whose mansion shall be neare by) the men never exceeding the age of
thirty yeares, and the Virgines fifteene, and both shall have their
Virginities renewed, as fast, as lost.
They hold also this, as a confident article of their Beliefe, there are
seven Paradises in heaven, the pavements whereof are laid with gold,
silver, pearles, pretious stones, and garnished with stately buildings,
and pleasant gardens, wherein are all sorts of fruit, and Princely
Pallaces; through the which runne Rivers of milke, honey, and wine.
The first Paradise, they call it Genete Alcholde, the second
Alfirduzy, the third Anthinak, the fourth Reduasch, the fift Azelem,
the sixt Alcodush, that is holy, and the seventh Almega, that is,
the greatest. And that in the midst of this last Paradise, there is
a stately tree, called Tubah, the leafe of which is partly of gold,
and partly of silver: whose boughes extend round about the wals
of this seventh Paradice, whereon the name of Mahomet is written,
neare to the name of God, in these words, Alla, illa, he, allah,
Mahomet Rezul allah. The which words are in such reverence amongst
the Turkes, that if a Christian should happen, unadvisedly to repeate
them, he is adjudged to a most cruell death, or compulsed to renounce
his Christian Religion.
[The Turkes Lent.] Their Lent lasteth thirty dayes, called Byrham,
some name it also Ramadan; induring which time, they eate nor drinke
nothing from Sunne rising to its setting downe: but when night commeth
they Cormandize at their selfe pleasures: Their moneth of Lent is
our January, where every day after their severall devotions, they
goe to solemne playes; and all kind of prophane pastimes: counting
that best devotion, which is most sutable to their dispositions;
allotting fancy to follow their folly, and blindnesse, to overtop the
ignorance of nature, drawing all their drifts within the circle of
destruction: But indeed, as they are blind, in the true way of sacred
worship; yet are they masked with a wonderfull zeale to their devoted
blindnesse; surpassing farre in shew, and observations, the generall
Professours of Christianity, and all the Ceremonies can bee annexed
thereunto: Theirs running on with the flouds of ignorant affection,
and ours distracted with the inutile novelties of superfluous Schoole
questions: which indeed do more distemper the truth, than render God
to be rightly glorified.
[The Turkes opinion of hell.] As concerning their opinion of Hell,
they hold it to be a deepe Gulfe, betwixt two Mountaines: from the
mouth whereof are Dragons, that continually throw fire, being large
eight leagues, and hath a darke entry, where the horrible Fiends meete
the perplexed sinners, conveying them till they come to a bridge,
that is so narrow as the edge of a Razor: whereupon these who have
not committed haynous offences, may passe over to Hell, but those who
have done Buggery (as the most part of them do) and homicide, shall
fall headlong from it, to the profoundest pit in Hell, where they
shall sometimes burne in fire, & sometimes be cast into hot boyling
waters to be refreshed. And for the greater punishment of the wicked
(say they) God hath planted a tree in Hell named Sajaratash, or Roozo
Saytanah, that is, the head of the Divell, upon the fruit of which,
the damned continually feed: Mahomet in one of the Chapters of his
Alcoran calleth this tree, the Tree of Malediction.
They also thinke the tormented soules may one day be saved, providing
they do indure the scorching flames of Hell patiently. Thus, as
briefly as I could, have I layd open the opinions of the Turkes,
concerning their Heaven and Hell, before the eyes of these, who
peradventure have never bene acquainted with such a ghostly Discourse.
[The number of all the Emperours in East and West.] And now I thinke
it not amisse to reckon you up in generall all the Romane and Greeke
Emperours, that have bene from the beginning to this present time,
both in the East, and in the West, with the number of the Turkish
Emperours also: Beginning now at Julius Cæsar, the first Dictatour of
Romane Emperour, to Constantine the Great, who transported the seate
of the Empire from Rome to Constantinople, he was the three score and
fourth Emperour: And from Constantine the Great in the East, to the
first made Emperour in the West, there were thirty nine Emperours:
of whom Constantine the sixth, sonne to Leo the third, with Irena his
wife was the last sole Emperour, and she Empresse of East and West:
After whose death and overthrow, Charlemaine was called in to Italy
to danton the Lombards, who had oppressed that region, and the peace
of the Church for two hundreth yeares: He chased them from Rome,
Apulia, and from all Italy, and was therefore declared by Pope Leo,
the Romane Emperour of the West: from Charlemaine to this present
Ferdinando that now raigneth, Charlemaine being the hundreth and
fourth, there were forty and one Emperors: So in all, with this
Emperour Ferdinando, lately Duke of Grasse, the number amounts to of
these Emperours, counting from Julius Cæsar to Constantine the sixt,
the last sole Emperour of the East, and after him, from Charlemaine
the first Emperour of the West, to this time, their number have bene
a hundreth and forty sixe Emperours.
Some whereof were Greekes, which cannot perfectly be set downe,
in regard some were Empresses, and others suddenly elected, were as
suddenly murthered or poysoned.
Now to reckon the Turkish Emperors, I will first begin from the time
that the Turkes tooke a Monarchick name, under the name of Ottoman,
even to Mahomet the second, the first Grecian Emperour, beginning,
I say at Ottoman, the sonne of Orthogule the first Emperour of the
Turkes, and the first that erected the glory of his Nation; there
were nine Emperours to Mahomet the second: And from him to this
present Amurath, that now raigneth, there have bene eleven Emperours:
The number of which are onely twenty, and or they come to thirty,
they and theirs, I hope, shall be rooted from the earth.
[The beginning of the Turkes.] The Originall of the Turkes, is sayd
to have bene in Scythia, from whence they came to Arabia Petrea,
and giving battell oft to the Sarazens, in the ende subdued them,
and so they multiplied, and mightily increased: the apparence of their
further increasing, is very evident, except God of his mercy towards
us prevent their blood sucking threatnings, with the vengeance of
his just judgements.
The Sarazens are descended of Esau, who after he had lost the blessing,
went and inhabited in Arabia Petrea; and his Posterity, striving to
make a cleere distinction betweene them, the Ismaelites, and Jewes,
called themselves (as come of Sara) Sarazens; and not of Hagar,
the handmaide of Abraham, of whom came the Ismaelites, neither of
the race of Jacob, of whom came the Jewes. But now the Sarazens being
joyned with the Turkes, their Conquerours, have both lost their name,
and the right of their discent.
The Turkes which are borne and bred in the lesser Asia, and East parts
of Europe, [The Turkes complexion.] are generally well complexioned,
proportionably compacted, no idle nor superfluous talkers, servile
to their grand Signior, excessively inclined to Venery, and zealous
in Religion: Their heads are alwayes shaven, reserving onely one
tuft in the top above, by which they thinke one day to be caught to
Heaven by Mahomet, and covered on all sides, counting it an opprobious
thing to see any uncover his head, they weare their Beards long, as a
signe of gravity, for they esteeme them to be wise men, who have long
beards: The women are of a low stature, thicke and round of growth,
going seldome abroad (unlesse it be each Thursday at night, when
they go to mourne upon the graves of their dead friends) and then
they are modestly masked: they are fearefull and shame-fast abroad,
but lascivious within doores, and pleasing in matters of incontinency;
and they are accounted most beautifull, who have the blackest browes,
the widest mouthes, and the greatest eyes.
The other Turkes which are borne in Asia major, and Ægypt, (I speake
not of the Moores of Barbary) are of a greater stature, tanny, cruell,
a barbarous and uncivill people. The better sort use the Slavonian
tongue, the vulgar speake the Turkish language, which being originally
the Tartarian speech, they borrow from the Persian their words of
state, from the Arabicke, their words of Religion, from the Grecians,
their termes of warre, and from the Italian their words and titles
of navigation.
The puissance of the great Turke is admirable, yet the most part of
his Kingdomes in Asia, are not well inhabited, neither populous, but
these parts which border with Christians, are strongly fortified with
Castles, people, and munition: If Christian Princes could concord,
and consult together, it were an easie thing in one yeare, to subdue
the Turkes, and roote out their very names from the earth; yea,
moreover I am certified, that there are moe Christians, even slaves
and subjects to the great Turke, which do inhabite his dominions,
then might overthrow and conquer these Infidells, if they had worthy
Captaines, Governours and furniture of Armes, without the helpe of
any Christian of Christendome.
And yet againe, I thinke it not amisse to discourse more particularly
of the Turkish manners, of their riches, and of their forces of warres,
and the manner of their conducements.
[The Turkes are Tartarians.] The Turkes being naturally discended
of the Scythians or Tartars, are of the second stature of man, and
robust of nature, circumspect and couragious in all their attempts,
and no way given to industry or labour, but are wonderfull avaritious
and covetuous of money above all the nations of the world. They
never observe their promises, unlesse it be with advantage, and are
naturally prone to deceive strangers; changing their conditionall
bargaines, as time giveth occasion to their liking: They are humble
one to another, but especially to their superiours, before whom they
doe not onely great homage, but also keepe great silence, and are
wonderfull coy during the time of their presence: They are extreamely
inclined to all sorts of [Libidinous Turkes.] lascivious luxury; and
generally adicted, besides all their sensuall and incestuous lusts,
unto Sodomy, which they account as a daynty to digest all their other
libidinous pleasures. They hold that every one hath the houre of his
death wrot on his fore-brow, and that none can escape, the good or
evill houre predestinated for them: This rediculous errour makes them
so bold and desperate, yea, and often, to runne headlong in the most
inevitable dangers: They are not much given to domesticke pastimes,
as Chesse, Cards, Dice, and Tables, but abroad and in travell, they
are exceeding kind disposers of their meate and drinke to any stranger
without exception: The better sort of their women, are sumptuously
attyred, and adorned with pearles and precious stones, and some of
them are accustomed to turne their hands and haire into a red colour,
but especially the nayles of their hands and feete; and are wont to
go to bathe themselves in Stoves twice a weeke, as well as men.
The true Turkes weare on their heads white Turbanes, save a few that
are esteem'd to be of Mahomets kinred, and they weare greene Shashes,
being most part of them Priests: the better part of the Turkes in Asia,
care not for fish, but these Turkes which remaine in Europe love fish
better then flesh, especially at Constantinople or Stambolda, where
the best fishes and most abundance of them are taken, that be in the
world, and that in the blacke Sea: They are ever desirous to seeke
advantage on their neighbours, which if they cannot by force, they
will under colour of truce, accomplish it with perfidiousnesse. And if
their interprises, finde no happy event, they are never a whit ashamed
to take the flight, yet are they generally good souldiers, and well
taught in martiall discipline: Their Armies in marching, or camping
(notwithstanding infinite multitudes) keepe modestie and silence,
and are extreamely obedient unto their Captaines and Commanders: When
the great Signior is abroad with his armie at warres, the Turkes at
home within Townes, use great prayers, and fasting for him and them:
They ingeniously describe the victories of their Ancestours, and
joyfully sing them in rimes and songs; thinking thereby that fashion
in recalling the valiant deeds of their predecessours, to be the onely
meane to encourage their souldiers to be hardy, resolute and desperate
in all their interprises: [Turkes are noe Schollers.] They are not
given to contemplation, nor studdy of Letters or Arts; yet they have
divers faire Schooles, where the publicke lecture of their legall
Lawes are professed, and Mahometanisme; to the intent that Children,
being elected to be brought up there for a nones, may be instructed,
to be profitable expounders of their Alcoran, and judicious Judges
for the government of the Common-wealth: It is seldome, and rarely
seene, that a Turke will speake with a woman in the streets; nay,
not so much as in their Mosquees one to be in sight of another;
and yet they are Lords and Masters of their Wives and Concubines,
from whom they receive as great respect, service and honour, as from
their bond and bought slaves.
Now as concerning his riches, the chiefest three parts of Commerce
of all kind of merchandise, and abounding in silver and gold in all
the Turkes dominions, as well in Asia, and Affricke, as Europe, are
these, Constantinople in Thracia of Europe: Aleppo in Syria of Asia
major; and grand Cayro in Ægypt of Affricke: for these are the three
Maggezzines of the whole Empire, that draw the whole riches, money,
and trafficke to them of all the Imperiall Provinces: It is thought
that ordinarily and [The great Turkes yearely rent.] annually the
rent of the great Turke amounteth to sixteene millions of gold,
notwithstanding that some doe make it lesser: But because it is
so hard to judge of any Monarchs rents; being like the infinite
concavities of the earth, sending, and receiving so innumerable wayes
their streames of riches, I'le desist from any other instances: And
yet the great Turkes revenewes, are no way answerable to his great &
large dominions: The causes arising hereupon are many, of whom I will
select three or foure of the chiefest reasons: First the Turkes being
more given to armes, to conquer, to destroy and ruine, and to consume
the wealth of the people they overcome, leaving them destitute, of
nuriture; rather then any way to give course for their encreasing
and stablishing of traffique, out of which should flow the royall
advantages. [Certaine reasons.] And the reason why they keepe their
subjects poore, and frustrate themselves of great profits; is onely to
weaken, and enfeeble them, whereby they should not have wherewith to
move insurrection or rebellion against them. And on the other part,
the Greekes are as unwilling to be industrious in Arts, traficke or
cultivage; seeing what they possesse is not their owne, but is taken
from them at all occasions, with tyranny & oppression. For what gaines
the sower, if another reape the profit; So in the Ottomans estate,
there be great Forrests, and desartuous Countries; proceeding of the
scarcity of people to inhabit there, the multitudes being drawne from
Asia, to strengthen the frontiers of his dominions in Europe.
And besides there is another reason of the dispopulosity of these
parts; to wit, when the great Turkes Army, is to march to a farre
Countrey to make warres, then must their vulgar subdued peasants,
perhaps twenty or thirty thousands go along with them, to carry their
victuals, and all manner of provision, being taken from the plough,
and constrained to this servitude, and notwithstanding the halfe of
them never returne againe: Partly, because of the change of food,
and aire, and partly because of their long travell and insupportable
service, both in heate and cold: And to these of the first reason,
there is another perpendicular cause; to wit, that the whole commerce
of all commodities in Turkey, is in the hands of Jewes, and Christians,
to wit, Ragusans, Venetians, English, French, and Flemings, who so
warily menage their businesse, that they enjoy the most profits of any
trading there, dissappointing the Turkes owne subjects of their due,
and ordinary trafficke.
[Parsells of ground for Tymariots.] The last and most principall reason
is, which is a great deale of more importance than his Revenues;
to wit, the great number of his Timars: for the Turkish Emperours;
being immediate Maisters of the lands they overcome, they divide the
same in Timars or commandements: leaving little or nothing at all
to the auncient Inhabitants; they dispose upon these proportions,
to valerous Souldiers, that have done good service: And with this
condition, that they mainetaine, and have alwayes in readinesse Horses
for the warres: which is an excellent good order for the preservation
of his Empire; for if these Timariots were not rewarded, with such
absolute possessions of parcell grounds, the state of his power would
suddenly runne to ruine: for the profit of which lands, maintaining
themselves, their horses, and their families, maketh them the more
willing to concurre in the infallible service of their Emperour:
These Timars or grounds, entertaine through all his Dominions, about
two hundreth and fifty thousand horses, that are ever in readinesse
to march at the first advertisement, without any charges to the great
Signior, being bound to maintaine themselves in during the warres: And
yet these Timariots, and their horses, cannot yearely be maintained
under the value of ten Millions of Gold: The consideration whereof,
makes me astonished, when I recall, the relations of some ragged
Authors, who dare compare the Great Turkes Revenues unto our petty
Princes of Christendome.
This establishment of Timars, and the by-past election of Azamglians,
or young children to be made Jannisaries have bene the two strong
Foundations, that supported so inviolably the Turkish Empire. The
Romane Emperours for a long time used the selfe same manner for the
assuring of their persons, and estate, in election of yong males
to be their guard. They were called the Pretorian Army, and this
taxation of children was the first thing that moved the Flemings,
to revolt against the Romanes.
[Policies of Turkes.] As for the Turkish Cavalrie, they sustaine two
important effects, first they keepe under awe and subjection, the
great Turks subjects, who otherwise perhaps wold revolt: And next they
are ordained for any dependant interprise for field Garrisons, yea,
and the principall sinewes of the warres: and yet the election of the
grand Signior, lieth most in the hands of the Janizaries, who can not
perfectly say he is Emperour before they confirme him in his Throne.
The Turkes have three things in their Armies which are very fearefull,
to wit, the infinite number of men, great discipline, and force of
Munition: As for discipline, they are not onely governed with great
silence, and obedience, but they are ruled also with signes of the
eye, and being tractable, they are tied to maine conducements: And
although their multitudes have often bred confusion to them, so that
little Armies have broke and overcome them; yet in their flight they
are so cautulous, that a small number can do them no absolute violence
nor finall overthrow: for as they assaile, so they flye without feare.
The first Residence of the Turkish Emperour after his comming
from Ægypt, was at Priusa in Bithinia: thence it was transported to
Andreanople, and then to Constantinople, where it abideth to this day:
Besides, all his great [Beglerbegs or Bashaes.] Bassaws in Europe,
which are eight, one in Buda in Hungary, another in Moldavia, the third
in Dacia, the fourth at Bagaviliezza in Bosna, &c. He hath also in
Affrick a Bassaw, in Algeir, another in Tunneis, the third in Tripolis,
and the fourth in Ægypt, &c. And in Asia major and minor, to wit, one
in Aleppo, of Syria, one in Damascus, another at Balsera, the fourth
at Meccha in Arabia fælix, the fift in Carmania, the sixt in Cyprus,
the seventh in the Rhodes, the eighth at Arzeron in Armenia major,
the ninth and tenth at Testis and Upan, on the Frontiers of Gurgestan
and Persia, &c. For Arsenals he hath foure for sea, to wit, one at
Perah or Galata, containing a hundred thirty and three Galleys: The
second at Gallipoli of twenty Galleys: The third Arsenall is at Savezza
upon the Red Sea, consisting of twenty five Galleys: And the fourth
is at Belsara in Arabia fælix, towards the Persian Gulfe, depending
of fifteene Galleys, which are kept there to afflict the Portugals,
remaining in the Ile of Ormus; and other parts adjacent there.
The Turkes have a custome, when they are maisters of any Province, to
extermine all the native Nobility, chiefely these of the blood-royall
of the Countrey: And neverthelesse they permit to all and every one
of theirs to live and follow his owne Religion as he pleaseth without
violence or constraint.
Amongst the Turkes there is noe Gentility, nor Nobility, but are all
as ignoble and inferiour members, to one maine body the great Turke,
lineally descending of the house of Ottoman: whose magnificence,
puissance, and power is such, that the most eloquent tongue cannot
sufficiently declare: His thousands or Janisaries, Shouses, and
others dayly attending him: which are the nerves and sinewes of the
Warlike body of his whole Monarchy and imperiall estate: His hundreds
(besides his Queene) of Concubines, hourely maintained by his meanes,
and monethly renewed: His Armies, Bashawes, Emeeres, Vizier-bashawes,
Sanzacks, Garrisons, and Forces here and there dispersed amongst his
dominions, would be impossible for me briefly to relate. The inhumane
policy of the Turkes, to avoid civill dissention is such, that the
seede of Ottoman (all except one of them) are strangled to death:
Wherefore, as Augustus Cæsar said of Herod in the like case, it is
better to be the great Turkes dogge, then his Sonne. His Daughters
or Sisters are not so used, but are given in marriage to any Bassa,
whom so they affect; yet with this condition; the King saith to his
Daughter, or Sister, I give thee this man to be thy slave; and if he
offend thee in any case, or be disobedient to thy will, here I give
thee a Dagger to cut off his head; which alwaies they weare by their
sides for the same purpose.
[Noble Persians.] The Persians differ much from the Turkes, in
nobility, humanity, and activity, and especially in points of Religion:
who by contention thinke each other accursed; and notwithstanding both
factions are under the Mahometanicall Lawe. Neither are the Sonnes
of the Persian Kings, so barbarously handled, as theirs; for all the
brethren (one excepted) are onely made blind, wanting their eyes,
and are alwayes afterward gallantly maintained, like Princes. And it
hath oftentimes fallen out, that some of these Kings, dying without
procreate Heires; there have of these blind sonnes succeeded to the
Empire, who have restored againe the seed of that Royall family.
And now the great advantage, that the Turkes have dayly upon the
Persians, is onely because of their Infantery, which the Persians
no wayes are accustomed with, fighting alwayes on Horse-backe;
neither are the Persians adicted or given to build Forts, or
Fortifications, neither have they any great use of Munition, but
exposing themselves ever to the field in the extreame hazard of
battell, become ever doubtfull in their victories: whose [Babylon
regained by the Persians.] courage and valour cannot be paraleld
among all the people of the Easterne world, as Babylon in their late
and last fortunes may give sufficient testimony thereof.
THE FIFTH PART
Close bounded Hellespont, Earths Mother sport
I leave: longst the Æolid lists, I Smirna court:
Thence Samothrace, and Rhodos, I accoast,
Which Lilidamus Viliers, manly lost:
The Lycian bounds, and steepe Pamphilian shoares
I strictly view: The sea Carpathian roares,
I land at Cyprus: Seline is the place,
Whence I that Kingdome, to Nicosia trace:
From Famagust, faire Asia, then I courted
And Libanon; whence Cedars were transported
For Sions temple: And my toyles to crowne
I sight great Aleppe, Syriaes Lady Towne:
Then passing Mesopotame; Chelfanes land,
I stay at Beershack, on Euphrates strand:
Thence backe by Damas, Arabie Petrea,
Galilee, Samaria, mountainous Judea
I toyling came: And at Jerusalem,
I lodg'd neere Moriah, in a Cloystred frame.
The Winter expired, & the Spring gone, time summoned me after three
moneths repose, to imbrace the violence of a firy fac'd season:
where having dutifully taken my Counge of many worthy friends, who
both kindly, and respectively had used me; especially, the aforesayd
English Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassadour,
Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure,
and had bene formerly Consull in Aleppo five yeares.
I left Constantinople, and imbarked in a Ship belonging to London,
named the Allathya, whereof one Maister Wylds in Ratcliffe was Maister;
where indeed both he and his Company kindly and respectively used
me, for the space of twelve daies; being bound for Smyrna, and so we
sayled along the coast of Bithinia in Asia minor.
Bithinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrigia; on the
East Pontus: and on the South Capadocia or Leuco Syria: The chiefe
Citties are Calcedon, where, by comaund of the Emperour Martianus,
the fourth Generall Counsell was assembled, to repell the Heresie
of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount Stella,
famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And
where Tamberlane with 800000. Tartarians incountred Bajazet, whose
Army consisted of 500000. men; of which 200000. lost their lives
that day: And [Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.] Bajazet being taken,
was carried about in an Iron Cage on whose necke Tamberlane used to
set his foote, when he mounted on horse-backe; and at last beate out
his owne braines against the barres of the Iron Cage: the next Cities
are Nicomedia; and Nyce, where the first Generall Councell was kept,
Anno 314. to which there assembled 318. Bishops to beate downe the
Arian Heresie. The other Townes are Prusa and Labissa; the former was
built by Prusias King of Bithinia, who betrayed Hanniball when he fled
to him for succour; in the latter Hanniball lyeth buried. Prusa was
a long time the seate of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first
began to keepe his Residence at Andrianople: The chiefe Rivers are
Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained
the first victory against the Persians.
Having passed Bithinia, and the Phrigian coast, we fetched up Cenchrea,
where Saint Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed, Acts
18. 18. Being a Towne now inhabited by Greekes, with a Turkish
Governour, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring
places, that bereave them of their trafficke; and because the Jewes do
not much frequent here: the Inhabitants are rather turned spectators to
Vertue, than any way inherent to necessary goodnesse: Want of Strangers
being one let, and vitious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth
by the sea side in the North part of Ionia, but more truely on the West
frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor: on the South
Ionia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the North-west Æolus, & a part of
Phrygia major. The chiefe Metropole is Sardis, once the Royall seat
of Croesus the richest King in his time, who in his full prosperity,
was told by Solon, that no man could reckon upon felicity so long as
he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which
afterward he found true: The recitall of which advertisement, when he
was taken prisoner by Cyrus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus,
where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Pergamenum:
here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundreth and forty
yeares: the reason whereof, he thus affixeth; he never eate or drunke
his full, & ever carried some sweete perfumes with him. The other
Townes are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.
Upon the twelfth day after our departure from Constantinople, we
arrived at Smirna, being foure hundreth miles distant.
[The City of Smyrna.] This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned
Revelation 2. 8. And standeth in Ionia: of this place was the famous
Martyr Polycarpus Bishop, who sometimes had bene Schollar to John the
Evangelist: and living till he was of great age, was at last put to
death for Christs sake. It is a goodly place, having a faire Haven
for Ships: They have great trafficke with all Nations; especially for
fine Silke, Cotten wooll, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Countrey
Peasants, which straungers buy from them.
Truely, neare unto this City, I saw a long continuing plaine,
abounding in Cornes, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull herbage, and so
infinitely peopled, that methought Nature seemed, with the peoples
industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by
admirable agriculture.
That for Commodities and pleasure, it is little inferiour unto the
valley of Suda in Candy, which maketh the inhabitants wondrous
insolent: for as mirth is made of [Wealth is the brother of
vice.] pleasure, and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so
there is not a more incorrigible creature then man in prosperity, nor
so modest nor reformed an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a
sparing and crooked favour, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is
the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can preferre
us to true felicitie: And would to God that these, upon whome none
but faire windes have ever blowne, in the carreire of their supposed
happinesse, could but see for all their high and overtopping places,
their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrowes of
the omnipotent arme, that are yet flying not at theirs but his marke;
and no more owners of their owne proposed ends, then they are guilty
of their owne beginnings: surely they would cover their faces with
another kind of maske then they do: and make their actions seeme more
cleare, then the force of policie can obumbrate their wicked devices.
Thiatyra now called Tiria, one also of the seven Churches is not from
Smirna above eighteene miles.
From this Citie (having left my kind English men and their stately
ship that carryed 24. pieces of Ordonance,) I imbarked in a Turkish
Carmoesalo, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for
Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Ionia, the first place of
any note I saw, was [Ephesus decayed.] the ruinous Citie of Ephesus;
yet somewhat inhabited with Greekes, Jewes, and a few Turkes; but no
waies answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather
a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency:
neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire fields, and
greene woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yeeld a delectable
prospect: It was one of the seaven Churches, Revel. 2. 1. This was
one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the same
thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse,
furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven
worlds wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure
hundred twenty five foote long, and two hundred broad: It was seven
severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with lightning, and
lastly the finall destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus,
who to purchase himselfe a name, [Dianaes Temple burnt.] did set
it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof,
Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally it is famous for
the buriall of Saint John the Evangelist: It was said of this place,
in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole world did
worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timæus
being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that
night, when Alexander the great was borne: gave this jest thereof,
that the Mistresse of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse
of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olimpias the mother of Alexander
the great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.
[The Ile Lango or Cuos.] Over against this Citie is the Ile Lango,
aunciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and
Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous,
and of circuite above fourescore miles. There is a kind of Serpent
said to be in it, so friendly unto the Inhabitants, that when the men
are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come cralling, and will
lincke or claspe themselves about their neckes and bodies, without
doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.
And neare to Lango, is the Ile Nixa, of old Strangoli; and by some
called Dronisa and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As
we sailed by the West part of the Ile, a Greekish passenger shewed
me the place, where (as he sayd) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus,
which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille.
Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Ile Ephdosh,
where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were [Excellent
swimmers.] naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their
great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine
men, and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole
league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the
waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they
shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will be reduced againe to pay
him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed,
there came a man and two women swimming to us, more then a mile of
way, carrying with them (drie above the water) baskets of fruite to
sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to
the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay
leaning, or as it were resting them selves on the sea, upon their one
side, and sold so their fruits: keeping complements and discourses
with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, and a fresh
gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Ile of Samothracia.
[Samothracia.] This Ile of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania,
and now by the Turkes Samandracho; a place of small note considering
the quantity of the Ile, and the few number of Inhabitants: their
lives being answerable to their meannes; ignorance and servitude;
two strong commanders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull,
then they are debile in the debt of worthinesse; which the younglings
of understanding, & sucklings of far look'd-to knowledge, can never
be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall
imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednes, which indeed moe wish
for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our
departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called
of the Iland wherein it standeth.
Rhodes lieth in the Carpathian Sea. It was of old called [The Ile
of Rhodes.] Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called
Rhodes, because there were certaine fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos
in the Greeke tongue signifieth a Flower: Not farre from the City, and
at the entery of the Haven, [The Idoll Collossus.] I saw the relicts
of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, named Colossus Rhodius,
or the mighty image of the Sunne; which was made in honour thereof:
from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Collossians. It was
builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares:
others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the
name Collossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the
seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity
whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected
in the Image of a man, being eighty cubits high, and so bigge, that
the little finger of it was as bigge as an ordinary man: between whose
legs, (it standing in the harbours mouth, with a legge on each side of
the entery) Shippes were wont to passe under with taunt sayles: When
Mnavi Generall of Caliph Osmen first united this Ile to the Mahometan
Empire, and broke downe the greatest part of this statue; the brasse
whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camells.
This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed
Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy
Land; who were called Knights of St. John; who viriliously expulsed
the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from
the devided Grecians: These Knights sorely invested the Turkes for
the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at
last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever great friends to
the Romanes, insomuch that when all the other Mediterranean Ilands
revolted to Mithridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romanes.
This Ile of Rhodes within the space of 25. yeares was three
times mightily indangered by violent and extreame [Inundation of
waters.] impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood
did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which beginning
in the Spring-time, did continue to Summer, and in all this time,
it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the
people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered
under safegard of their dwellings: which was a miserable destruction,
and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall deludge.
But true it is, as these ominous judgements falling upon particular
parts & parcells of people, are justly executed; yet they serve for
Caveats for all others in generall, (sinne being the originall of
all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the best use
of the Creature.
The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these
Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about
five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who asisted them)
were besieged by an Armie of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three
hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The chiefe obstacle, and
impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute
valour of the defendants. But in end multitude overmastring valour,
and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their munition, and
being penurious of victuals, were constrayned to render, upon the
conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and
remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spaine
gave them the barren Ile of Malta to inhabite: This Ile of Rhodes was
lost by the Maltezes, Anno Dom. 1522. [Rhodes taken by Solyman.] And
on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as conquerour, though he
might justly have said (as Pyrhus once said of his victory over the
Romanes) that such another victory would utterly have undone him;
he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Souldiers. It
is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The Fortresse of Rhodes,
and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds,
in all the Empire of the great Turke.
And by the way here I must record, that if the great Turke, and his
great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Janizaries, and
speedy rewarders of their common Souldiers; it were impossible for
him the Emperour, or them the Bassawes to menage so great a state,
and to keepe under obedience so head-strong a multitude, & such
turbulent forces: for by your leave, [Souldiers should be regarded &
rewarded.] if a Souldiers industry be not quickned and animated with
bountifull rewards; he hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall
service; then a dead coarse hath power to arise out of the grave: for
what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountaine
& nurse of his vitall spirits, & the ground of his bodily substance;
which no free or ingenious nature wil hazard to lose for nothing.
And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and
infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these
Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally
maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers;
otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale better to
have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble
Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.
Rhodes joyneth neare to the continent, over against Caria, now called
Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia,
and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria
to the North: The chiefe Cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having
great gates, being but a small Towne, made Diogenes the Cynick crie
out. Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of
your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne,
who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares:
Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who
ayded Xerxes against the Grecians, was by some Authors named Queene of
Hallicarnasso. This was she, [Mausolaos Tombe.] who in honour of her
husband Mausolao, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of
the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported
with thirty sixe admirable wrought pillars.
After I had contented the Master for my fraught, and victuals (who
as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke
of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I imbarked, being
foure hundred miles distant.
This Tartareta, or Demi galleyeot, belonged to the Ile of Stagiro,
aunciently Thasia, wherein there were mines of gold, in these times
that afforded yearely to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore
talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence:
The chiefe Towne whereof is Palmapreto, where diverse Greekes hold
the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea-port, which is
a common resting place for all the Orientall Pirats or Cursaroes;
which maketh the Ile halfe desolate of people; and these few scarce
worthy of their dwellings.
[Pamphilia & Lycia.] Having past the gulfe of Sattelia, and the Ile
Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his name: we boorded
close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull
Pamphilia; the chiefe Citie of Lycia is Patras, watred with the river
Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians
of Lycus sonne to Pandion: It lieth twixt Caria and Pamphilia, as
Pamphilia lyeth betweene it and Cilicia: The chiefe Towne in Pamphilia
is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successours: on the
East of Lycia within land bordreth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphilia
behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cylicia, sustaining many great
dangers, both of tempestuous stormes, and invasions of damnable Pirats,
who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage
being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow,
or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.
Here in this Countrey of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now
decayed Towne of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to
any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistresse of that Province,
though neither for worth, nor wealth.
All auncient things by Time revolve in nought
As if their Founders, had no founding wrought.
But thou torne Tharsus, brookes a glorious name,
For that great Saint, who in Thee had his frame:
So may Cilicians joy, the Christian sort,
That from their bounds, rose such a mighty Fort.
Twelve dayes was I betweene Rhodes and Limisse in [The description of
Cyprus.] Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations
from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond
my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet
mind, I redounded thankes for my imbraced courtesies.
The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility,
hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated
to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I tooke with me an
Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst
of the Kingdome. But in my journey thither, extreame was the heate
and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want
of water: And although I had with me sufficiency of Wine, yet durst I
drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a tast of pitch;
and that is, because they have no barrels, but great Jarres made of
earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jarres are all inclosed
within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open
like to a Source or Cisterne; whose insides are all interlarded with
pitch to preserve the earthen vessells unbroke a sunder, in regard of
the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous
lips; and turneth the Wine, too headdy for the braine in digestion,
which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves
a swallowing up of diseases.
To cherish life and blood, the health of Man,
Give me a Tost, plung'd in a double Cann,
And spic'd with Ginger: for the wrestling Grape
Makes Man, become from Man, a sottish Ape.
Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, and is invironed with
mountaines, like unto Florence in Ætruria; [The sixe Cities of
Cyprus.] wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famegusta,
the chiefe strength and Sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos,
and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.
This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Amatusa, and by some
Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West,
210. large 60. and of circuit 600. miles. It yeeldeth infinite canes
of Sugar, Cotten-wooll, Oyle, Honney, Cornes, Turpentine, Allum,
Verdegreece, Grogranes, store of Mettals and Salt; besides all
other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named
Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horne: and lastly
Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Iland
was consecrated to Venus, where in Paphos she was greatly honoured,
termed hence, Dea Cypri,
Festa Dies Veneris tota celeberrima Cypro,
Venerat, ipsa suis aderat Venus aurea festis.
Venus feast day, through Cyprus hollowed came,
Whose feasts, her presence, dignified the same.
Cyprus lyeth in the gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Ægypt to
the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphilian
Sea to the North: It hath foure chiefe Capes or headlands: first,
Westward the Promontore of Acanias, modernely Capo di Santo Epifanio:
to the South the Promontore Phæuria, now Capo Bianco: to the East
Pedasia, modernely Capo di Greco: to the North, the high foreland
of Cramineon, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest
Promontores of the Iland, and Cape di S. Andrea is the furthest
poynt Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently
it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cerania,
now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of
this Ile: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plaine of Massara,
and thirty foure miles from Famagusta; and the Towne of Famagusta was
formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience
here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundreth and forty
Villages, besides the sixe capitall Townes, two whereof are nothing
inferiour for greatnesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy,
Sicily, or Greece.
[Trohodos a huge hill in Cyprus.] The chiefest and highest mountaine
in this Ile, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height
eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number
of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros,
and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of
Coriander seede, with medicinable Reubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are
also mines of gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome,
Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are
diverse precious stones found in this Ile, as Emeraulds, Diamonds,
Chrystall, Corall, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante,
whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into
the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.
The greatest imperfection of this Ile, is scarcity of water, and too
much plenty of scorching heate, and fabulous grounds. The Inhabitants
are very civill, courteous, and affable; and notwithstanding of their
delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy,
of a Robust nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes:
It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Ile
was all uterly abandoned of the Inhabitants, and that because it did
not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time,
and to [Cyprus replanted.] replant this Region againe, the chiefest
Colonies came from Ægypt, Judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphilia, Thracia,
and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares
1163. after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of Jerusalem
had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited
here; of whom sprung the greatest race of the Cyprian Gentility;
and so from them are discended the greatest Families of the Phenician
Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined;
yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising
from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.
The three Iles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchicke
Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: [Comparisons of Iles.] and semblable
to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy
that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly
and sassinous: yet for Oyles and Wines, she is the Mother of both
the other: Sicily being for Graine and Silkes the Empresse of all:
and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both;
onely Sicily being the most civill Ile, and nobly gentilitat, the
Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.
The chiefe Rivers are Teno, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer
made a Kingdome, who after the Trojane Warre came and dwelt here: and
afterward being divided betweene nine petty Princes, it was subdued
by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Meedes and Persians. After the
subversion of which Empire, this Ile was given to the Potolomies of
Ægypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. [The
Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.] The Dukes of Savoy were once
Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected
Kings to themselves, of their owne generation: and so it continued,
till the last King of Cyprus, James the Bastard (marrying with
the daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without
children, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the
factious Nobility, too headstrong to be bridled by a female authority,
like a good child, resigned her Crowne and Scepter to the Venetian
Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie
of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway
in their behalfe; paying onely as tribute to the Ægyptian Sultans
40000. Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala, had made
John of Cyprus his tributary.
It was under their Jurisdiction 120. yeares and more; till that the
Turkes, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit
occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians)
tooke it in with a great Armado. Anno 1570. and so till this day by
them is detayned. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods word,
and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that
famous Kingdome, being but one thousand & fifty Turkes in all, who
are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore
afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who
would, if they had Armes, or asistance of any Christian Potentate,
easily subvert and abolish the Turkes, without any disturbance; yea,
and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I
doe not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got,
but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile; if that the
generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne
compassion to relieve the miserable aflicted Inhabitants. In which
worke, he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure
of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest,
but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. [The
Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.] The which deliverance
Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having
purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with five Gallounes, and
5000. Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of
Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should
have entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.
But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of
the Vice-admirall, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong bay: which
the Florentines considering, resolved to returne, and keepe the sea,
till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of
their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon
the Turkes went presently to armes, & charged the Inhabitants to
come to defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the
West part, at Paphos, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their
hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, &
every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turkes. This massacre
was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwaies are the torturing
flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most,
and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be
as stable as Mount Syon, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse,
one day God, in his all-eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries,
and in his just judgements, recompence these bloody oppressors with
the heavy vengeance of his all-seeing Justice.
In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-man,
we encountered by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have
my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a
revenge, pulled me by thee heeles from the Mules backe, beating me
most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanewhile my
companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and
if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident
came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.
Here I remember betweene this Ile and Sydon that same Summer,
there were five galleouns of the Duke of [A sea cumbat.] Florence,
who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado consisting of
100. gallies, 14. galleots, and two galleasses: The Admirall of which
ships did single out her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with
the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their flying
backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seazed
upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20. gallies, who
desperatly adventured to row her away against the wind and so escaped.
For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in menaging
of Sea battells, neither are they expert Mariners, nor experimented
Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English,
and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellowes;
who have taught the Turkes the airt of navigation, and especially
the use of munition; which they both cast to them, & then become
their chiefe Cannoniers; the Turkes would be as weake and ignorant
at sea, as the silly Æthiopian, is unexpert in handling of armes
on the Land. [Christiane Runagates.] For the private humour of
discontented castawayes is alwaies an enemy to publicke good, who
from the society of true beleevers, are driven to the servitude of
Infidells, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they
receive the double yoake of dispaire and condemnation. Whose terrour
of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed soules,
in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour,
ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy,
otherwise in the extasie of madnesse: which indeed is a torturing
horrour, that is sooner felt then knowne; and cannot be avoided by
the rudenesse of nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.
[The City of Tripoly.] From the Fort and City Famogusta, I imbarked
in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly being 88. miles distant, where
I met with an English ship called the Royall Exchange of London,
lying there at Anker in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves
I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great
cheare, and greater carrousing, they gave me the thundring farewell
of three pieces of Ordonance. Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a
mile from the marine side, neere to the foot of Mount Libanus: since
it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated,
and removed in three sundry places: First it was overwhelmed with
water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly,
it is like now to be overthrowne with new made mountaines of sand:
There is no haven by many miles neere unto it, but a dangerous roade,
where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away.
[Scanderona.] The great Traffique which now is at this place, was
formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward;
but by reason of the infectious ayre, that corrupted the bloud of
strangers, proceeding of two high Mountaines; who are supposed to be
a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sunne
from the In-dwellers, more then three howers in the morning. So that
in my knowledge, I have knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time,
twenty Marriners: for this cause the Christian ships were glad to
have their commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholesome
and convenient place.
The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to
Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite
Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian
Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes
journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant
guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers;
Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our
Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not
bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us,
in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard
of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents,
which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of
these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived [The Cedars
of Libanus.] to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty
foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale
taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight,
and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the
Roote to the toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward,
like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their
circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their
grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees:
and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe
Champions of Forrests and Woods.
Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad
with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and
nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree
is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent
kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more
wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost
destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes
wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above
in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about
forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually,
Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified
with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage,
Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the
best Wine that is bred on the earth. [The Prince of Libanus.] The
Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not
acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere
or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet,
and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy,
to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother
yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke:
yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe,
the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde Prince his father
after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour;
with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee,
I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused
transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians
or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion
from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim,
now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.
The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians,
[Nestorians.] called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans,
and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this
day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount
Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The
kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in
descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes,
where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these
austere Cottages, I saw [Joshuas Tombe.] a faire Tombe all of one
stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher
of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land
of promise.
The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it
in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw
upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is,
The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe,
eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe,
or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.
The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his house; so did
also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way
before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of
Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like,
as they could on a sudden provide.
[The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.] This Bishop or Patriarkes house,
is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke,
that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being
onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great
Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night
and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop
Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with
ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of
Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose
upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding
waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning
saluted Libanus with these lines.
Long and large Mount, whose rich-spred mantle, see!
Affords three colours, to my wandring eye;
The first are Cornes, in their expectant view,
Faire Barley, Rye, and Wheate; O hopefull hew!
That quickneth the prest plough: and for to eat,
It makes new toyle, begin againe to sweat:
The second sight are Wines, the best on earth,
And most delicious in their pleasant birth;
They're Phisicall, and good t'expell all sorts
Of burning Feavers, in their violent torts:
Which Senators of Venice, drinke for health,
There's nought so rare, but is attaind by wealth.
The third is amiable, O verdure greene!
For pastorage, the best that can be seene;
Drawne nigh the tops, where fire-worne Cedars grow,
And here, or there, some cooling spots of snow:
Whence Rills doe spring and speedy Torrents fall
To loose scorchd floures, that burning heat would thrall:
Here heards frequent, whose pleasant toyles doe rest
Of mountaines all, on Liban, onely best:
Where piping Pan, and Silvan doe accord,
To lurke with Ceres, and make Bacchus Lord;
Pitch'd under silent shades; whence Eden Towne
These bounds for Paradice, dare firmely crowne:
And last, to count these colours; here's delite,
The fields are greene, wines yellow, cornes as white.
[The Nestorian paradice.] About the Village of Eden, is the most
fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious
fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly
people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance,
they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these
arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-jacent
Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in
Rocks; and that Eden was still reedified by the fugitive Inhabitants,
when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the
deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired
againe by Japhet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Joppa, or Japhta
in Palestina. Loe there are the reasons they shew strangers for such
like informations.
[The Georgians Paradice.]
There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly
Paradice: The one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians,
holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens,
and excellent fruits there; especially for the tree called [The Tree
Mouslee.] Mouslee, which they beleeve hath growne there since the
beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular tree, for I
saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nylus in
Ægypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it
is cut downe hard by the roote, and in five moneths the tree buddeth
up a pace againe, bringing forth leaves, flowers, and fruite. The
leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand
under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a foot-ball,
which is yearely transported for Constantinople to the great Turke;
and there is reserved for a relict of the fruit of the forbidden tree;
whence he surstyles himselfe keeper of the earthly Paradice.
But if he were not surer a greater commander and reserver of a large
part of the best bosome of the earth, than he is keeper of that
Adamian Garden; his styles of the earth, and mine of the world, were
both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked
creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to
be kept or seene, certainely I would wish to be a Postillion, to the
great Porter, the Turke, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.
[The Chelfane Paradice.] The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought
to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris,
and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite: I have oft required of these
Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who
answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of
their Ancestors: And because of the river Euphrates, and other rivers
mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detayne their names
in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all
the earth. But contrariwise, it manifestly appeareth by the second
Chapter of Genesis, 2. 20. that this garden, that we call Paradice,
wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth,
containing a particular portion of a Countrey, called Eden, which
boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer,
no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by
reading or travelling, because this river hath beene oft divided in
sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon,
did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But
howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my selfe, no man can
demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man,
did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the earth.
Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato
and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that mountaines, Ilands,
and Countries, have received great alteration by [Violence of
Seas & waters.] the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging
Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from
Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades,
from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries cut through so in
divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate
to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high misteries (appertaining
onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend
God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his paines.
But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to
Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turkes to
Aleppo, being ten dayes journey distant. In all this way (leaving
Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely
a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called Turcomani,
living in Tents, and following their flockes to whom I payed sundry
Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattell where so they
finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the
ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainely
demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure
they had, or could have in their living.
They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two
damnable points: [The Turcomans opinion of God & the Divell.] The one
is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of him selfe is
so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good doe harme,
nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and therefore more to be
loved than feared: The other is, they confesse there is a Divell, and
that he is a tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible
and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour
and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first borne child to him:
soliciting his divellishnes, not to torment them too sore when they
shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they thinke afterwards
by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall goe from hell to Paradice.
In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and
within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, [Antiochians the
first Christians.] one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of
Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day,
that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named
Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions
flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies;
who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall
persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno
96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, 167. Severus,
195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian
anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome,
yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and
watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum,
semen Ecclesiæ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof
were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.
Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence
departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian
Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants,
(having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the
Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report
they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to
hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell
I received, [Frustrate of Babylon.] But was meerely frustrated of my
designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before
my comming to that unhappy place.
The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but
sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable
deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull
Prose can not performe.
The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind
That here and there doe flee, turne judgement blind:
Did overwhelme my heart, in grim despare
Whilst hope and reason fled, stayd timrous care:
And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide
Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside:
Still this, still that I would! all I surmise
Is screwaly stopt: At last my scopes devise
To make a Boat, to beare me downe alone
With drudges two, to ground-chang'd Babylon:
That could not be, the charges was too great,
And eke the streame, did nought but dangers threat:
My conduct still deceavd me, made it square
Another Caravan, O! would come there
From Aleppe, or Damascus: till in end
Most of my moneyes did his knavery spend:
Thus was I tost long five weekes, and foure dayes
With strugling doubts: O strange were these delayes!
At last a Chelfane came, a Christian kind
Who by my griefe soone understood my mind;
And told me flat, the Janizaries drift
Was to extort me with a lingring shift.
Come, come, sayd he, the Sanzacke here is just,
Let us complaine, for now complayne you must:
He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv'd
And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swervd:
He's calld, and soone convinc'd, and with command
Forc'd to transport me backe to Syriaes land:
I'me there arrived, and eftsoones made me bound
For the Venetian Consul: there to sound
My great abuses, by this Villane done.
Which soone were heard, and eke repayrd as soone:
The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake
He did me more, then conscience will'd me take.
My plaint preferd, he was in Prison layd
And all my gold, to give me backe was mayd
Which he had falsely tane: where for his paines
He had the losse, and I receivd the gaines:
For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more,
I got my vantage, from his craft before:
And for his ten weekes fees, no more he had
Than he, thats owner of a ditch-falne jade:
Thus leaving him, I with the Consull bode,
Full forty dayes, or I went thence abroad.
In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack,
through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a
Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning
the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the
fertility of the soyle: [Mesopotamia.] which indeed in Mesopotamia,
yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing,
in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.
The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no
eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen
the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks,
and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most
part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant
Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding
therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great
sufferers for it also.
[Beershack.] This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate
on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed
to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept
Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have
beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence
are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines
are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to
that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico,
the detriments of Thebes, the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall
overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place
most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set,
though now impossible to be found out.
[Mesopotamia.] Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the
nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea,
on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia
Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which
hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it,
can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished
with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices,
that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which
draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.
[A notable obedience.] Here I remember of a notable obedience done to
the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere,
or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither,
he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes
of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following,
and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople
a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they
came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia:
The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him
comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe
hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message,
where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was,
that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason
committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit his
possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with
great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would
utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.
At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to
resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he
dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and
nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to
dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his
sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to
prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees,
where the Showse [The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.] stroke off his head,
putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead
corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye
witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse
by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne
in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all
the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey;
for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power
of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa,
or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power,
farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince
borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks,
and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour
souldiers, which would make up as many more.
This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and
Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty
here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner,
who will flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes [Flying
Pigeons with letters.] journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying
letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants
of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in
the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this
tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which
I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was
the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.
[Syria.] Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South
Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee
and Phoenicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were
an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander:
after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent
Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested
from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath
suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians,
Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly
molested by the incursive Arabs.
In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my
desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming;
and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan
of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries,
and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way,
and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard
(being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian
Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me
safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of tributes by
the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at
Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my
victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company [A
Caravan of Armenians.] were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes,
men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse,
and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe
them from invasions.
Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of
which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had
beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained:
But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we
had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated
with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke
of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in
regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages,
and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes;
but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell
one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea;
and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten,
by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who
ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in
so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting
the Italian Proverbe.
Chi mi famiglior, che non ci suole,
Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.
He that doth better now, to me than he was wont,
He hath deceiv'd, or wil deceive, me with some sad affront.
But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and [Pagan
flattery.] flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried
with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his
fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for
they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot:
which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour,
over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use:
for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth
every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more
for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a
yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts,
with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a
whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the
long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.
At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh
the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that
were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were
mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me:
For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate;
their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe,
presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them,
when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all
the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing
the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses
they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on,
but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from
the floore, spred over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating,
drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in
one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes,
because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore
they call [Turkes are called Musilmans.] themselves Musilmans, to wit,
good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but
certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so
are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard,
who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele
to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.
They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have
they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene
hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine,
in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.
Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines)
we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned
with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we
were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without,
on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed
three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision
for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by
the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to
Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to
weary and extorted Travellers.
[Damascus is called Shamma.] Damascus is the Capitall Citie of
Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine,
and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar
and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other naturall objects of
elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities,
and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not
paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather
their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a
Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as
they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived
Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled,
keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.
[The antiquitie of Damascus.] Some hold this Citie was built by
Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place
where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so:
for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a
commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his
innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant
and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle,
wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered,
so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in
Winter from the raine.
The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy:
Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the
Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and
Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there
is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of
Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street,
I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the
ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in
a basket: In the street where they fell their Viæno, my Interpreter
shewed me a great gate of fine mettall, which he sayd was one of
the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence,
by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and
eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced
to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse:
And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be
sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.
This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place
of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted
being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the
City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that
be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons,
as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that
Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long,
their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use
to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. [The forces of
the Bassa of Damascus.] The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the
greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under
his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks,
and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand
Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are
the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership
extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes
Foelix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea,
Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous,
even to the frontiers of Egipt.
The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an
induced confidence upon the power, and force of those Timariots who
as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time
of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the
incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes,
and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet,
and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of
these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth,
rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly
Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse
of their owne dispositions: [Savage Arabian Robbers.] So that every
one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men
uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts,
living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity,
more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together,
doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.
Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke,
hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots,
which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes
at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space
of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way
to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing
it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At
the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man,
what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was
converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great
regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,
More like some relict, of exstirpd decay,
Than for a monument, reard for the way.
To blaze on Pauls conversion: yet it's true
The worke was done, even by the Christiane Jew,
Or Jacobine: a circumcised kind,
Who beare to franks, a most respective mind:
Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie,
which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred
with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This
barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming
in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to
the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre
more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean
Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge,
cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground,
till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.
[A dangerous way.] Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very
theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of
us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had
their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty
Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for
the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes
in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so
rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently
divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the
Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be
the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and
Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.
Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes;
whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence,
lieth Arabia Fælix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most
fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo,
Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina,
the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the
chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where
Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.
Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these [Arabia
Petrea.] Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie,
and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine;
who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word
of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or
whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no
more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe
(when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in
the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming;
and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times
confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil
in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty
Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were
appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus,
most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with
insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part,
I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended
over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to
sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind:
yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest
endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard,
yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately
wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition,
and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a
redresse. For oftentimes an [A corrupted Caravan.] inconvenience is
most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure,
and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate
desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring
avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is
his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show,
must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like
were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in
unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous
ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes,
by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason,
to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe
from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made
my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.
But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he
cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull
meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect
I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that
imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my
selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so,
that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in
danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I
also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my
owne safety.
The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then
ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my
owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance
of his condigne merit.
But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the
after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that
is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia
from Galilee. [Jacobs Bridge.] This Bridge by the Armenians, is called
Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where
Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob,
to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is
scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his
greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall
more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had
sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable,
in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at
sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage
twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings
of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay,
than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was
furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.
Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computation of the Romane
Calender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Galilee,
a Province of Canaan; This Countrey was first called Canaan from
Canan the sonne of Cham: secondly the Land of Promise, because it was
promised By the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse: Thirdly,
the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was
surnamed Israel: Fourthly, Judea, from the Jewes, or the people of the
tribe of Judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the
Philistins. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy land, because herein
was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the worke of our
salvation. It is in length 180. and in breadth 60. miles: yet of that
salubrity of aire and fertility of soyle, flowing with milke and hony,
that before the comming of the Israelites it maintayned thirty Kings,
with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and
Judah; in which David numbred one million and 300000. fighting men,
besides them of the tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certayne,
that by the goodnesse of the Climate and soile, especially by the
[Canaan greatly changed.] blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull
Land in the World: but by experience, I find now the contrary, and the
fruitfulnes thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with
the Jewes, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither
are the greatest part of these Easterne countries so fertile, as
they have beene in former ages, the earth as it were growing olde,
seemeth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely
the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Starres, are
become neyther so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have beene:
Time from olde antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation,
making the strong things weake, and weake things feeble, at last it
returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all
beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by
the day of judgement.
As things that are, still vanish from our eye,
So things that were, againe shall never be:
The Whirlwind of Time, still so speedy posts,
That like it selfe, all things therein, it tosts.
The Jewes are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of
Abrahams Progenitors, or Hebræ quasi Abrahæi: who at their discent
into Egypt, were but seventy soules being the issue of Jacob, and
his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriarchy, continued
in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare
of the world, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which
time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the
Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here:
which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisits, and
Jebusits. [The Holy Land.] Canaan is divided into five Provinces,
viz. Judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phenicia: Some divide
it only in three, Palestina, Judea, and Galilee: It hath beene by
others also nominated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation,
they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that
name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certayne,
that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five
particular Provinces: Galilee, and Palestina, for the present, are
the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee,
which in some parts, yeeldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance
of Silke, Cotton-woole, delicate Wines, Hony, Oyle, and fruites of
all kindes; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any
time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This province of
Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having
Phenicia to the North: Samaria to the west: Jordan to the South:
and to the East and North-East, a part or poynt of Arabia-Petrosa,
and the South-west end of Libanus.
After we had travailed a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth,
which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the
decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the North-side of
the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night:
in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture
above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes
my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night, when we slept, the
Souldiers kept Centinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept,
and we watched.
[Cana in Galilee.] This Cana was the towne wherein our Saviour wrought
the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is
now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed
of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants beeing partly Arabs,
partly Jewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent
fieldes, beeing both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.
The day following, imbracing our way, wee passed over a little pleasant
Mountayne, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with
them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes
thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in
that place (as they sayd) Where Christ fed five thousand people,
with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely
to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, showing as yet some
beautiful decorements, do dignifie both the Monument, and the Memory
of the Founder thereof.
Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is
a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly
have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of
Christ was: But the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the
great way of Jerusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither.
That night we lodged in a poore Village, called Heerschek, where we
could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for the Beasts,
but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from
the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes
had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no meanes
they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately
throwing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe
a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by [Cæsarea
Philippi.] Cæsarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the
ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being
for ruines, a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle
of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia: It was
built by Philip one of the Tetrarchs in honour of Tiberius Cæsar,
and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the
Angels, and eaten of wormes, after the Sycophanticall people called
his Rethoricall oration, the voyce of God, and not of man: Here our
Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death
to life the daughter of Jairus: Here S. Peter baptized Cornelius,
and S. Paul disputed against Tertullius in the presence of Felix.
Aprill the 20. day, about ten of the clocke, (passing the River Kyson)
we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing
our selves of victuals and water: In this Towne dwelt Joseph, and the
Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the
vigilant care of Joseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians
arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house,
before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God:
And that ruinous lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt,
when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to
the World: I am fully perswaded, they carried away above five thousand
pounds weight, to keepe in a [A counter buffet for Loretta.] memoriall
thereof: then did I remember of the Chappell of Loretta, and told
the Caravan, that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the
Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians
cannot beleeve that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church;
for we certainely know by Christians, that have from time to time
dwelt here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the
house: Let Papists coyne a new Law to themselves, we care not, for
as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerely the
traditions of men, they runne galloping post to Hell. The Patriarke
being informed by the laughing Caravan of these newes, asked me in
disdaine (thinking it had beene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw
that house, or beleeved that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing:
to whom I constantly answered, I did not beleeve it, affirming it was
onely but a divellish invention, to deceive the blind-folded people,
and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests: Now thou bottomlesse
Gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies
of Satans subtile stormes, can make ship-wracke of my Faith, on the
stony shelfes of thy deceitfull deepes.
Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions of their
imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall
poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are
faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here,
the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by 12. of
his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our
company; to be used by him and others, [Libidinous leachery.] whom so
he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly
accept, & invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall,
little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and some of the
chiefest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of 3. houres, and
sent them backe, giving to their conductors fifteene Piasters, in a
reward. Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these Whoores,
and the bruitishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to
the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.
Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaves under the Turkes;
that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable
Hethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse,
become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy
saying of that Heathnish Romane Emperour Marcus Aurelius, who in
consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that
the Gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare
it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeed of a
Pagane a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beastly
Christianes, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish
harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abhomination, which my conscience
commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northern world, with
that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have heard
hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night,
threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company
for their sakes: For we having resolved to travell all that night,
and because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous
for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide, named Joab, and agreed with
him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we
advanced to our passage, Joab had sent a privie messenger before us,
to warne about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South
side [A villanous plot.] of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a
place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well
provided with Chickens and Sultans of gold, and Piasters of silver;
and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense
and consideration, as their savage judgements should thinke fit;
according to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, together
with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and
unknowne to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary
pace, some on horse, and some on foote, for my pilgrimage was ever
pedestriall: which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity wee
should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began
to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pooles and
holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost,
and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and feare;
which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their
perishing beasts.
In the end, the Captaine and Janisaries, intreated him earnestly
to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more
obdurat was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde
it, till day light: upon the which words, the company was stayed,
and in the meanewhile there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers unto
the Captaine, saying; he saw the guide, before our [A treacherous
guide.] departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what
respect he knew not, being long at privat conference. Whereupon,
they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse backe, threatning him
with death, to cause him confesse the trueth.
In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre,
(which seemd exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the
villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward,
which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to
turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that
suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are
three or foure miles short of the place intended for our massacre,
yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there;
wherefore, if we incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent
their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered)
they yeelded; and so I became their guide, in that darke night,
till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature
of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our
vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his
treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that
if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently informe
us, how to eschew these eminent dangers, for we were all in extreame
perill of our lives; and not so much courage nor comfort left us,
as the very smallest hope of any reliefe.
The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied he would, and
thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the Janisaries sweare by the
head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied,
and confessed, that if we had continued in our way, he led us, wee
had beene all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his
knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.
All that night we went with the Starre, and against morning wee were in
the Westerne confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine,
close by the marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes
renowned [Tyrus is called Sur.] Citty of Tyrus, called now by the
Moores Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed
over all the World by her Citizens; and once a kingdome of great
antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were
Hiram in strict bond of Confederacy, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the
brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the
Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by
Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men,
money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from
the maine Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land:
and before you come to the Citty, there lyeth a great banke of sand,
where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now,
as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which
maketh that ruinous Towne seeme more desolate. At the breach of day,
I, and certaine Armenians went to visite this decayed Towne, and found
the most famous ruines here, that the World for memory can affoord,
and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos'd within the middle of
the Towne, fit to receive smal Barkes, Frigots, and Galleots: the
compassing fore-face whereof, beeing all of foure squard Marble and
Alabaster stones: the most part of all which Houses have stood on
pillars of the same stones: the [The ruines of Tyrus.] infinite number
whereof, may as yet bee, (above and below the Sands) perspectively
beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses heere, which are
Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth
in Sydon. The East part of this Countrey aboundeth in Balme, Honny,
and Oyle, and was the Seate of Asher of whom Moses prophecied,
Deut. 33. 24. that hee should dippe his feete in Oyle.
Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought
us to a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of
Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty
two foot of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which sayd they,
was one of the [Sampsons Pillar.] pillars that Sampson pulled downe
upon the Philistines at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered,
that Sampson dyed at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine,
where hee bore downe the House of Dagon, upon the Philistines: And I
thinke the auncient Tyrians, sayd I, could not transport that Pillar
so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did
these Armenians that were with mee confirme it also, some of whom,
had beene twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home
a pound weight of it, and presented the halfe thereof, to King James
of blessed Memory.
Here by accident, in returning backe to the Caravan, I met with
an English Factor, named Maister Brockesse, who then remayned at
Sydon, eighteene miles from this place, and had been downe at Acre,
about some negotiations: Who indeede eftsoones, and kindly tooke mee
into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquaintance:
where instantly we swallowed downe such joviall and deep carrouses of
Leaticke wine, that both hee and I, were almost fastned in the last
plunge of understanding: Yet neverthelesse, he conveyed me backe to
my company, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom
afterwards I diverse times met with here at London; to whose kindnesse
I celebrate the memory of these lines.
But now the Sunne discovering the earth, and the night banished to the
inferiour world, we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends
comfort: The Captaine (sending backe that false Judas, for so was he
sworne to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith,
and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we [The Towne
of Sarepta.] behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate
Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning, where Elias was sustained
in a great famine by a Widdow, whose sonne he raised from death.
Great are the mercies of God, for as he hath made man an excellent
creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his mind:
The one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the
knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexterous resolving;
whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged
the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were
freed from that apparent danger, although the former dayes whoredome,
and unnaturall vices, deserved a just punishment.
This I intimate to all Travellers in generall, that if they would
that God should further them in their attempts, blesse their voyages,
and graunt them a safe returne to their native Countries (without
the which, what contentment have they for all their paines) that they
would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunkennesse, and too much
familiarity with Strangers: For a Traveller that is not temperate,
and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like
that Herculean Serpent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can returne
in safety from danger of Turkes, Arabs, Moores, wild beasts, & the
deadly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.
Approaching to Mount Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand
betweene us and the marine coast, I beheld a farre off upon the top
of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heaven, when he left
his Cloake behind him to Elizeus his disciple. This mountaine is foure
miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with
the Sea, neare to Acre, called anciently Ptolomæis, and the South end
joyning with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we past.
[Samaria.] Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entred into a faire
Plaine, adorned with fruitfull trees, and all other ornaments that
pleasant fields affoord, but no Village wee saw. Marching thus about
the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian, we came in sight of two
hundred pavillions, all pitched in rankes; yeelding the prospect of
a little Citie, by a brooke side of water: which being perceived,
the Captaine began to censure what they might be; and immediately
there came riding towards us, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on
Arabian Geldings, who demanded what wee were? and whither we were bound
with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendome
in our company. To whom the Janisaries replied, we were purposed to
Jerusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: Upon the which
they presently sought me, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute
for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting
Caravan, and Janizaries, to pay them presently for my life seven
Chickens of gold, seven times nine shillings starling: And this is,
because sayd they our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore
we have tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because
there were no moe franks in our company, for from the Armenians,
they could not, nor would not seeke any tribute, because they were
tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke: neither also of
any other Christiane borne in his dominions, when they shall happen
to fall into their hands.
They returning backe to their Prince, with the malediction of my heart,
and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse, we marching on in our way, that
day wee travelled above thirty foure miles, and pitched at a Village
called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian houses,
standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine; and garnished with Olive,
Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where
we found also good hearbes to eate, and abundance of water to drinke,
and also to fill our emptied bottles: As wee lay downe to sleepe
after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us;
[The savage Arabian King.] that same King of the Arabians came a
little before mid-night, with twenty foure well horsed Runagats, and
naked Courtiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes,
pointed at both ends with hard Steele; and asked for the Caravan, who
presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast,
bowed his head very low; which is the usuall courtesie amongst the
Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their
heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sate all downe on
the grasse. The Caravan presented his rude like majesty with water,
bread, hearbes, figs, garlike, and such things as he had.
As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, the awfull King tooke
the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any mo Frankes there then I;
and he having sworne the trueth, The King by a malignant informer,
incontinently caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the
face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replied I had
none: then sayd he; tell that dogge, or Elishole, he must acknowledge
me with five peeces of gold more, otherwise (making a signe to his
owne throate) I shall cut off his head, because (sayd he) I will not
loose this nights travell for nothing: The which I being informed,
and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such
a scelerate Prince, [Exaction of tribute.] gave it him forth of mine
owne hand, having consulted with my Captaine before, and that presently
with a halfe smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest,
it seemed I gave it with a good heart & a chearefull gesture, and to
recompence my outward behaviour, he drunke a great draught of water to
me: thinking thereby, he had done me more honour then all the Chickens
of gold I gave him now, and in the morning; would doe him profit or
pleasure: pleasure they could doe him none, for they were unlawfully
and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my
sighing soule; and no wonder, having spent two yeares great charges
in Turky, before this time, but that I should have beene exceeding
penurious of money, and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort.
Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one
dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. [Two Arabian
Kings.] There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates,
the desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some
parts of Syria: And the other was hee to whom I payd this money
wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia
Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth
good pastorage, and fresh Fountaynes. These two Kings are mortall
enemies: and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly,
bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their
followers: For it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their
inordinate passions, beeing untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of
civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of
their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet
all the rest of that night, after his returne from us, wee still
expected some treacherous surprise, which made our souldiers stand
stoutly on their guard, and wee Pilgrimes to our vigilant and naked
defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons
in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And
for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, heere was
my present resolution:
The more I am beset, with dreadfull snares
Begirded round, in shelfie gulfes of wracke;
And shipbroke left, on rockes of deep despaires,
Where helples care, with tortring thoughts me racke:
Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end,
That time will change, and God will better send.
And now by the way I recall the aforesayd Turke, the maister of the
Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had
bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him,
and he suspecting the contrary, was councelled by his associats to
beate me soundly, and dismount my Victuals and Water from the Mules
backe, till I propined him with the rest, which intention being by me
understood; I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon
my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgell, and my better safety
procured: Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled, and an
inward grudge suddenly conceived, for it was the smoake, and not my
selfe he respected.
Loves whirling fancies, mortals fondly feed
As marish rootes dissolve, even as they breed:
An humane creature, inhumanely taught,
Is worser given to ill, than evill fraught:
Things in themselves, be not so bad as ill,
The cause exeemd, corruption hath free will:
Mans fraile affection, is a cloudy mist,
Whose vapours fall, and fogge, as passions list:
Bad counsell's worse, than nature ill applies,
Weake judgment dulls, when feare in reason flies:
Thus sad ecclips'd, the darke ecclipsed Moone
Did change, ere mine ecclipsed light was wonne.
At last the Sun-shine, of my silver day,
Came crawling on, as snailes advance the way.
The next morning, when the hopefull Aurore, had fore-showne the
burning birth of glassie Thetis, and that Orient majesty arising to
overcirculate the earth, then marcht we along in our way, and before
mid-day pitched our haire-cloth Tents round about [Jacobs Well.] Jacobs
Well, neare the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of
Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and overwhelmed with
mountaines of sand: we found this auncient Well so wondrous deepe,
that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water: The
taste whereof was wondrous cold & sweet, & for Jacobs sake the whole
number of us, drunke more of it, then neede required: The fiery face of
Phoebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields
of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion,
that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and foure broad:
and all that afternoone, wee had exceeding pleasant travailing; and at
night we incamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles
from the ruinous Towne of Cæsarea by the sea side, and is now called
by the Turkes and Moores Alferron, being a Village only of sixteene
Moorish Houses. Heere Peter healed the man sicke of the palsie.
[The Sea-port Townes of the Holy Land.] The Townes scituated by
the Sea side in Phoenicia, Palestine, and Judea, are these: Sydon,
which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia,
beeing a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere
or Prince of the Drusians: who beeing the off spring of the Christians,
which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, discended into
these parts, do still maintayne their liberty against the Turkes: The
Signior whereof being threatned by the Great Turke, fled to Cosmus Duke
of Florence, Anno 1612. leaving his two Sonnes behind him, the eldest
to keepe Sydon, and the younger to remaine in a strong Fortresse, on
the west end of mount Libanus: The elder brother foorthwith yeelded to
the great Turke, the signory of his Lands, but the younger would never
do it, and so retayneth absolutely the Countrey of Libanus to this day,
making himselfe thereupon, a mountainous Monarchicke Prince. Tyrus,
which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre or Acon, that hath yet
some indifferent trade of Merchandize, called formerly Ptolomeis:
Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but
the remnants of an auncient Abbay: Cesarea, who reserveth but onely
the memory of ruines, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it
be to savage Moores: Joppa or Japhta, is a Sea-port of small Barkes,
but the decaied Towne, contayneth not one dwelling House, save onely
a high Tower, which defendeth the Port from Cursares: Here Jonah
tooke ship to flye from God: Here Peter raised Tabitha or Dorcas,
from Death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the
Tanner, was in a vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And
Baruti famous for so many Christian armies that have besieged it, is
now composed of eight hundred fire houses: Lying North-east of Sydon
under mount Libanus, formerly called Julia Foelix, nigh unto which (as
fabulous stories report) S. George delivered the Kings Daughter, by
killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Canaan, standing
in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the best inhabited place of all
the holy Land, Sydon and Jerusalem excepted.
Saturday morning before the breach of day, setting forward from Lydda,
through the curling playnes of fat-fac'd Palestine, scarcely were wee
well advanced in [A dreadfull conflict.] our way, till wee were beset
with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights
an unexpected shoure of Arrowes, to the great annoyance of all our
Company: For if it had not beene, that our Souldiers shot off their
Gunnes on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bowes and
Arrowes for our defence, we had then miserably, in the midst of their
ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike
to the Jackals: For when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse,
they presently turne backe with such speed, as if the fiendes of the
infernall Court were broken loose at their heeles.
In that momentary conflict, on our side there were killed nine Women,
five men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy
Armenian Captayne, and to the rest of our Heathnish Conductors bred
no small griefe: the mourning noyse among the multitude, beeing
also wondrous pittifull. Till bright day came, we stayed still in
that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austiere
fortune: and at our departure thence, wee buried the slayne people
in deep graves, whereby Jackals should not open up their graves,
to eate their Corpes: For such is the nature of these cruel beasts,
that they onely love to live on mans flesh: these ravenous beasts
(as is thought) are ingendred of a Foxe and a Wolfe.
Proceeding in our journey, we entred about two of the clocke in
the afternoone, in the hilly Countrey of Judea, having two of their
courses to Jerusalem, which is about twenty English miles: [The Towne
of Rhama.] leaving Rhama on our right hand, which contayneth some two
hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from
Joppa, from which it lyeth in the way to Jerusalem: Here remayneth the
Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrimes to
Jerusalem, which land at Joppa, each Pilgrime paying seaven Chickens
of gold, is furnished with an Asse to ride on, all the way tributes,
at going, and comming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom
they resigne this tributary money.
Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores: not blacke
Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a
kinde of Egyptians, and not naturally blacke, but Sunne-burnt, with the
parching heate. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these
Moores, some Turkes, civill Arabs, and a few Christians and scattered
Jewes. The Arabians are for the most part Theeves and Robbers, the
Moores cruell, and uncivill, hating Christians to the Death: the
Turkes are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworne enemies to
Christ. But when they know how to make any gayne by strangers: O what
a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable Villaines,
whose outsides onely they seeme to affect: but intirely the insides
of their purses: & that is their ayme, and forcible end: wherefore
they both toyle with all, and Conduct strangers through many perils,
as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies:
Time discussing all, and mony over-mastering time; for Coyne is the
thing they must have, though necessity sometimes may not spare it.
About foure of the clocke before night, wee arrived at
[Beersheba.] Berah, called of olde Beersheba, being eleaven miles
distant from Jerusalem. Having a little reposed there, giving our
Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for our
selves, from these despightfull Moores, (for what wee carried with us,
was all spent) except a little Water: wee imbraced our Mountaynous
way, as cheerefully as wee could, for wee were exceeding faint, and
travailed that day above forty three miles; whereby wee might arrive at
Jerusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drouth, burning
heate, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveniences.
And now about halfe way betweene Berah and Jerusalem, I, and two
Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. Wee I
say, unhappily rancountred with foure Moorish fellowes, driving before
them sixe Asses loaden with Rootes, and shrubs of Wood to burne:
who seeing us, as they thought alone, layd hands upon us, robbed us
of our pocket monies: whereat [A grievous danger.] I resisting, one
of them pulled foorth a broad knife, and holding me by the Beard,
thought to have cut my throate, if it had not beene for one of his
fellowes, who swiftly stayed him.
Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Souldiers
instantly appeared unto us; whereupon wee shouting, the Moores fled
to the Rocks, and our foot Souldiers following, apprehended two of the
chiefest, and brought them to the Captaine: One of which had my money,
which I presently received backe againe, but mine associates money,
was with them that escaped: the Captaine and Janisaries, meane while
carried the two Moores along with them, thinking to execute them
at Jerusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on
Horse-backe, and on foote, relieved them from the Caravan, restoring
backe againe the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moores were
exceeding glad, and wee nowayes discontented: for if they had not
bin redeemed, certainly their friends and followers, who were thicke
flocking together, would have cut us all off, before wee could have
attain'd to Jerusalem.
At last wee beheld the prospect of Jerusalem, which was not onely a
contentment to my weary body, but also beeing ravished with a kinde
of unwonted rejoycing, the [A joyfull harmony.] teares gushed from my
eyes for too much joy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in
their owne fashion, Psalmes to praise the Lord: and I also sung the
103 Psalme all the way, till we arrived neere the wals of the Citty,
where wee ceased from our singing, for feare of the Turkes.
The Sunne being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrivall,
wee found the Gates locked, and the Keyes carried up to the Bashaw
in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the Company, being
all both hungry, and weary: yet the Caravan intreated earnestly the
Turkes within, to give us over the Wals, some victuals for our money,
shewing heavily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not,
neyther durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the
Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remayneth there to receive Travailers
of Christendome, who having got newes of our late arrivall, came and
demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society,
and he sayd, onely one. Then the Guardian called mee, and asked of
what Nation I was of, and when I told him, hee seemed to be exceeding
glad: yet very sorrowfull for our misfortune.
[A deare nights Supper.] Hee having knowne my distresse, returned,
and sent two Friers to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let
over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied,
and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke
a great fine, being a hundred Piasters, thirty pounds sterling:
otherwise both hee and I had beene beheaded: which I confesse, was
a deare bought supper to the Gray Frier; and no lesse almost to me,
being both in danger of my Life for starving, and then for receiving
of food, therefore suspected for a Traytor: For the Turkes alleadged,
he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray
the Citty: this they doe oft, for a lesser faulte then that was,
onely to get Bribes and mony from the Grey Friers, which daily stand
in feare of their lives.
Anno 1612. upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, wee entred into Jerusalem,
and at the Gate wee were particularly searched, to the effect wee
carried in no Furniture of Armes, nor Powder with us, and the poore
Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turkes,) behoved to
render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the feare they have of
Christians. And my name was written up in the Clarkes Booke at the
Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulcher,
might bee payed at one time together, before my finall departure
thence.
The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each Gate are
brazen Ordonance planted, for their defence.
[A foolish ceremony.] Having taken my leave of the Caravan, and the
Company, who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke, I was met and
received with the Guardian, and twelve Friers upon the streetes, each
of them carrying in their hands a burning waxe Candle, and one for
mee also: who received mee joyfully, and singing all the way to their
Monastery Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoyced, that a Christian
had come from such a far Countrey as Scotia, to visite Jerusalem.
Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Roome, and there
the Guardian washed my right foote with water, and his Viccar my left:
and done, they kissed my feete, so did also all the twelve Friers that
stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke,
it sore repented them of their Labour. I found here ten Frankes newly
come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germanes,
noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull
glad to heare me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Romane
Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were
Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance,
all foure being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that
dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them beeing Venetians, who were
all glad of me, shewing themselves so kinde, so carefull, so loving,
and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentle-men,
as ever I met withall, especially the Germaines: Such is the love of
strangers, when they meete in Forraine and remote places. They had
also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East,
and beyond Jerusalem: troubling me all the while wee were together,
to show them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of
Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia:
And were alwayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my
long Peregrination.
THE SIXTH PART
Now come my swift pac'd feete, to Syons seate,
And faire Jerusalem: heere to relate
Her sacred Monuments, and these sweet places,
Were fil'd with Prophets, and Apostles faces:
Christs Crub at Bethleem, and Maries Cave,
Calvar, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave:
Deepe Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch'd Tombe,
Sunke Lazars pit, whence hee rose from earths wombe:
Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake
Which orient folkes do still for Sodome take.
Thence view'd I Jordan, and his mooddy streames,
Whence I a Rod, did bring to Royall James.
The lumpe falne Jerico, and th' Olive Mount,
With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont:
The Arabian desarts, then Egypt land
I toyling saw, with Nylus swelling strand:
Where for discourse, the seaventh part shall thee show
What thou mayst learne, and what by sight I know,
Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch'd bounds,
That twice a yeare, in growth of graine abounds.
Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their
Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one
of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed
Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering [Jerusalems antiquity.] it
was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where
Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus,
2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to
build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron
Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David,
also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick
tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house,
almo kadas, viz. of Saints.
Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but
not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so
spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount
Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City;
and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and
the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim:
So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great,
though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that
the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first
Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these
mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both
situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day,
and are still seene, and knowne by the same; [The foure hills of
Jerusalem.] as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount
Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart,
or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward,
almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount
Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion,
bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on
Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to
the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.
The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato,
which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy
Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe
of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will
not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply
manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it;
I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely
discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword
within this multipotent City, by [The triumph of Titus.] Vespasian,
and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements;
which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven
hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all
at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the
circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they were cut off
so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.
[The overthrow of Jerusalem.] This City hath beene oft conquered by
enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the
Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by
Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed
of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the
Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly,
it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly,
by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane
Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno
1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time:
And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour
of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt
to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to
this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the
world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of
mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when
fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity,
with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now
governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw
of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under
the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. [The
Garrison of Jerusalem.] There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in
Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight
hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night
and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne
without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This
is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time,
when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the
Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that
then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius,
and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: [A notable observation.] And at
the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and
seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of
Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod
the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne:
Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was
eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor
(before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned,
(being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne,
and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After
which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but
afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most
part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by
Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke,
1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward
the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth,
1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany,
Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories,
Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma,
Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome,
(besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse
than twenty thousand of them: They are also innumerable over all the
Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying
of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would
I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke,
unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most
part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile,
and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah
and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of
whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have
a King like unto other Nations.
[The Jewish Kings.] The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and
Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in
whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel
there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time
the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.
[Dukes of Jewry.] The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene,
of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which
discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which
Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was
plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered
their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods,
and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.
To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly
resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and
his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for
their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of
the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.
The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the
last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. [The Machabean Princes.] Of
the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne
to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his
raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander
and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey;
& the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and
Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius
Cæsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio,
and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and
the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea,
as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.
[Christian Kings of Jerusalem.] The Christian Kings of Palestine,
beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the
last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.
And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and
race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost,
or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept,
then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to
the Spanish power.
But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely
understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent
places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof,
by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither
absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate,
and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre
Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he,
and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled
backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places:
And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who
dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom
the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that
understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually
speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall [The
ignorance of Travellers.] conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement
blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances,
and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these
Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of
every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared
such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe,
be evanished and transported.
About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us
eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster
a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs
and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage:
accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians,
which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes
would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on
the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne:
And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as
they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward,
toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater
performance of their foolery.
[A superstitious Ceremony.] The rediculous Ceremony which that day
they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd
Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee
mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser)
and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees,
and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the
way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David,
blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came
to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred,
Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy
of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have
not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding,
the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying
at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in
their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the
Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers
and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the
Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and
bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in
our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially
rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a
Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying:
You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments,
nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies which
we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your
liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please)
onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary
Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we
condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing
our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes,
tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.
In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this
admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in [A flattering
beggary.] general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith,
Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here
at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries
of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which
here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be
defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee
was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and
Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation,
as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our
Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies
to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles
of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the
which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.
Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within
the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French
Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they
shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd:
Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and
this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the
World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church
was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is doubtful
(say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority:
From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High
Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound,
whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but
that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive
Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned,
when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores
cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James
and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.
[Caiphas Lodging.] Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas,
without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell
builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on
which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place
is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour,
being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally
borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem,
in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the
other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed
Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour,
and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath,
representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute,
than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale
and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being
a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.
And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, wherein (say
they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to
the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place,
where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a
decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the
Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon:
Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter,
to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most
of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.
From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way,
by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified,
carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete
(say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to
helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. [Pilats judgement
Hall.] Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely
betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the
which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us
the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of
that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood,
when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.
A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna,
where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another
narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the
rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread
that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things,
for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it
were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem
having beene so often transformed by alterations.
This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering
Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I
rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing
them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others
somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very
small) distinction in the Relation.
From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low
Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley
of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd
St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian
faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As
we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah,
and shewed us the place where [Abrahams faith.] Abraham offered up
Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each
of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem,
for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these
Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of
S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly
kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in
it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs,
who continually molest them, because [Mount Sinay.] mount Sinay
standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far
from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem
about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus
sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto
this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed
by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place,
where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne,
and to S. John behold thy mother.
Ascending more upward, they shewed us the house of Veronica Sancta,
and said, that our Saviour going by her doore, all in a sweat to Mount
Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received,
and gave it to her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face
remaineth to this day, and is to be seene at Rome. It is also sayd to
be in a Towne in Spaine, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia:
wherefore I beleeve the one, as well as the rest.
So out of one, if Papists can make three
By it, they would denote heavens Deitie:
But O! not so, these three revolv'd in one,
Points forth the Pope, from him his tripled Crowne
He weav'd these Napkins, leying reard his seat,
For which this number, makes his number great.
[The Temple of Solomon thrice builded & destroyed.] As concerning
the Temple of the most high, built by Salomon (the description of
which edifice yee may read in the 3. of Kings) it was destroyed
by Nabuchodanezzar, at the taking of Jerusalem, Anno Mundi,
4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded againe by the commandement of
Cyrus King of Persia, after the Jewes returned from the Captivity
of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the
former: For besides the poverty & smalnesse of it, there wanted five
things which were in the other: First, the Arke of the Covenant:
Secondly, the pot of Manna: thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly,
the two tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly,
the fire of the Sacrifice, which came downe from Heaven, which were
the Symboles and badges of Gods favour and mercy showne to them and
their fore-fathers in his covenant of Love.
This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the great, (that killed
the young Infants for Christs sake, who suffered for him, before he
suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and
superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him
but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did
even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For
this Herod the Ascolonite, was an Edomit stranger, or Idumean,
who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses; and
created King of Jewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these people
to be offended therewithall, to procure their favour did [Herod the
Idumeans Temple.] build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which
our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire
by Titus the tenth day of August, on which day likewise the first
Temple, was burnt by Nabuchodanezzar. And lastly there is another
great Temple builded in the [Selim Solimans Temple.] same place, by
Sultan, Selim Soliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for
that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose
courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.
This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high
wals, having two enteries: In the inner Court standeth the Temple,
that is composed of five circling and large Rotundoes, rising high
and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick
whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against
the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.
These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Jerusalem;
but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward,
which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were
spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one
hundred souldiers, sixty horse-men, and forty foot-men, to take
with him the day following, for his conduction to Jordan, and the
mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his
usuall custome once every yeare betweene Palme-sunday and Easter,
returning againe before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed,
save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the
souldiers, unlesse he give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as
a propyne) unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings starling:
and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, he may stay there
till their returne, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly he
may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome, and Jordans sake. That
same night after supper, the Guardian demanded of us Travellers,
if we would goe with him to see these memorable, & singular things,
upon the former condition: To whom we answered, in a generall consent,
we would, and so payed our moneyes.
[A voyage to Jordan.] Earely upon Tuesday morning all the Friers
and Pilgrimes being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and
two Mules loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from
the City, about our nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our
faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and Bithania on our left hand,
wee had pleasant travelling for seaven miles; but in the afternoone wee
entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last
wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and
the beasts, wee reposed till two houres within night. After that the
Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away: we set forward,
being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entred
into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and fabulous soile.
In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neyther house, nor Village,
for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wilde Beasts,
and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by
seaven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it,
before wee could arrive at that place of Jordan which wee intended)
we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were
not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted,
wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and
sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of
perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through
on my feete, relieving also divers times some of these Friers and
Pilgrimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but
not for lacke of Wine. Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine,
(the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed, [A fearefull
danger.] and invaded us with a storme of Arrowes, which they sent
from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing
the advantage of the ground: they tooke opportunity to give the more
feareful assaults: yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded
some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valourous
Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore
fatigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night.
A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and wee leaving our
troublesome way, we accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the
marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Jordan. This Lake is
called Lacus Asphaltites, it yeeldeth a kinde of slime, named Bitumen
Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no living thing can indure. And
now Mare mortuum, a sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for
that no living thing breedes therein: and more properly for this cause
called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmoveable, such is the
Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if
a Bird flye over it, shee presently falleth downe therein dead: And
as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisdom. 10. 7. it smoaketh continually:
from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields,
lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made
utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of
Jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course,
the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle,
and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably Record.
[The length of Sodoms Lake.] This Lake is foure score miles in length,
and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three,
foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof, bending
directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the
austiere conspicuosity of the sabulous and stony Desarts: beeing
compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the
North, with the sandy hils of the Wildernesse of Judea: on the West,
with the steepy mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with
the plaine of Jericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the
fresh running flood of Jordan, falling evermore into this bounded
Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but
alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neyther hath it any issuing forth,
nor reboundeth backewards on the plaine of Jericho, which is one
of the greatest wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have sayd, it
must needes eyther exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise runne downe to
Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts,
it would soone bee knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta,
which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300. miles; there
is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther
hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through
some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the
Red sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable; in
regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the
exterior Æthiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner,
obscuring themselves under Rockes, mountaynes, and planures, for many
miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.
[The doubtfulnes of Jordans ending.] But as for this River, the
question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five
Citties of the plaine, now overwhelmed with Water; or where was the
issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty,
that rained downe from the Heavens fire and Brimstone to consume them,
able also, to drowne their situations and intervalling plaines with
water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping
still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many
Citties, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water:
nay innumerable, and so remayning to this day, place, beauty, and
being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the
last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superabounding
disgorgings.
It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling
of Jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediatly dye. Although
Josephus witnesseth, that in his time, there was an Apple grew
uppon the Bankes thereof, like to the colour or gold, and within was
rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary:
For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath beene in his dayes)
as eyther Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to Sodome by three miles:
such is the consumation of that pestiferous Gulfe.
[Wrong informations made false.] Divers Authors have reported, that
nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or
Carkasses of Beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it
beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile
of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands
made sundry trials; and dare approove it to be of trueth, in spight
of the leying world, and all doting varieties of auncient Relations.
The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in
the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terrour in it,
as I was informed at Jericho, by the Arabian inhabitants there,
which is the neerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.
This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodome, resembleth much
(as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion,
I hold it to be the Purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum,
is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs
be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded,
it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I
conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely
affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodome and
Gomorra, which was with fire and Brimstone, to their destruction.
About the breach of day on Wednesday morning, we past by the ruines
of an old house; where (as they say) S. John the Baptist remained,
when he baptized those that came from Jerusalem, and other Regions
about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Jordan.
Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and [The River
Jordan.] uncloathed our selves, going in naked to the River, we washed
us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as
pledges of our lives, and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for
our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences:
Time presenting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this
place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of S. John, when
the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him,
and there was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne,
in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of
a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side; whereupon are ingraven
letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing:
and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle,
of that precursor, which is not far from thence.
This river Jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines,
Jore, and Dan, which runne separated, till they come to the lake
Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the
lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Jordan
are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other
in their courses: For Jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris
runneth through the new Sodome; A history of such evidence, as travell
taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which
breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will beg indulgence,
of the Popes aureat magnificence.
The rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity
not far different from other, which Jordan for greatnesse retaineth,
and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water
of Jordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity
it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and
the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke it, is
an excellent remedy for the fever quartan or quotidian, being neare
in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.
Considering the auncient reputation of this famous river, and the
rare sight of such an unfrequented place, [A Turpentine rod brought
from Jordan and given to King James.] I climbed up to the top of a
Turpentine tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above
where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and
cut downe a faire hunting rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine tree,
being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and
of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great paines, I brought
to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes
treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof
an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrat from the
sight of the company, upon this solitary tree, with broad obscuring
leaves, the Friers and Souldiers removed; keeping their course towards
Jericho: but within two furlongs from Jordan, they were beset with the
former Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict:
For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration,
and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were
gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plaine, I saw them
at a martiall combate: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatning
of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, within the
circundating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes:
Or in prosecuting a reliefe, to be participant of their doubtfull
deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape
their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Jerusalem,
leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon
the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on
my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst
thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the
soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present, expel'd
the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side
of my company, one of our Souldiers broke forth on horsebacke, being
determined to kill mee for my staying behinde: Yea, and three times
stroke at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed,
I prevented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in
amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recovering the Guardians face,
which when the Guardian espied, and saw my naked body, hee presently
pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the
secrets of nature: By which meanes, (in the space of an [The Pilgrimes
three severall habits in halfe a houre.] houre) I was cloathed three
manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian:
And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage,
and a religious habit.
The Captaine at last entering in parley with the Arabs, by some
contributing promises did mitigate their fury, for their compounded
acknowledgement was to be sent them from Jerusalem: Whereupon, wee
marching toward Jericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade,
and dined there on the Wine and provision carryed with us.
After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was hee
who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals
whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This
new Jericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses,
inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subjection under the
Governour of Jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals,
and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant,
about a short quarter of a mile. [Two sorts of rare fruit.] Here I
saw two most dainty kinde of fruites, the one was a little lesser
then an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without,
and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Suger. I would gladly
have eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying; they were the
onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a
greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like
to a Mellone; being both delicate and wholesome, of which wee did
eate to satisfie the naturall appetite, and so did all our Souldiers
eate of them excessively: their Trees growing high and greene by
a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of
Elizeus. From Jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse;
our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ
fasted forty dayes: Where arrived, being late, we durst not go up til
morning. [Elizeus Fountaine.] Wherefore we pitched that night by the
fountayne of Elizeus; the Water of which, was of old, naturally bitter,
but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet
tast: It is good in digestion, and harmelesse for health: and it is the
lightest water the earth yeelds: having on the morrow filled a Boares
skin of it, to carry with me to the mountaine; I found it so light,
that I had no weight nor paine in the bearing of it on my shoulders:
notwithstanding, the way of it selfe was fastidious. This mountain is
called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation
of my painefull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the
bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with
a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.
There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath
beene hewen out of the Rocke, by the industry of men, experimented
in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up
by the Degrees of forty five turnes. In all our Company there were
onely one Frier, foure Germanes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe
the mountaine.
Thursday earely at the breach of day, we sixe made us for the
mountaine, leaving our Souldiers to guard the passage below,
least some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our
Destruction. Where after diverse turnings, traversings, and narrow foot
passages having come with great difficulty to the top, we entred first
into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, [Where
Christ fasted forty dayes.] where the Frier told us, that in this
place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where he rebuked
Sathan. The Chappel which covereth the top of this high and steepy
Rocke is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: betweene
the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this mountaine, two
men may only go side to side: Here we dined and refresht our selves
with water that I carried on my backe hither: From which place we saw
the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Judea,
Palestine, and Phenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea,
and Deserta, and all the length of Jordan, even from Sodome to Maronah.
At last in our Returne and fearefull discending, there would none of
us goe downe formost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards,
yet first downeward for his life hee durst not goe: and that because
at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the
upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some where twice
my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing
but dimples and holes to receive our feete, which in discending was
perillous. [Dreadfull danger in descending the Quarantatam.] Now
the greatest danger, at every turne, was in the downe going of the
formost, who was to receive, them all, one by one, and foote their
feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed,
his sliding downe had miscarried them both over the Rocke.
Now for the noble Germanes sake, two of whom were great Barens, Signior
Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the Marquesse of
Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went,
receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their
feete by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine armes: Well,
having past halfe way downewards, wee came to the most scurrile and
timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty,
I set safe the foure Germanes in our narrow Rode hewen out of the
craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence hee comming
downe from above, with his Belly and face to the Rocke, holding his
hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was
placing his feete in the holes, distempred feare brought him downe upon
me with a rushling hurle: Whereuppon straight I mainly closed with
my left arme his body fast to the Rocke, keeping strongly my Right
shoulder to the same place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and
letting him fall, but hee would have caught mee headlong with him,
over the Rocke: And yet the Germanes cryed still to me, Lascia ti
quel furfanto cascar alla fondo con il Diavolo, e salva caro fratello
la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the
Divell, and save, O deare brother, your owne life: But I neyther would
nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him,
I suffered him to slide softly downe betweene my arme and the Rocke,
to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe uppon his knees,
and gave mee a thousand Blessings, vowing for this, he would doe me
a great good deede before I left Jerusalem.
At last towards the afternoone, wee safely arrived at the foote of
the Mountayne, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the Rest,
who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how
I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friers,
did imbrace me kindly in their Armes, giving me many earnest and
loving thankes.
And now the Souldiers and wee being advanced in our Way, as wee
returned to Jerusalem, wee marched by an [S. Jeromes Abbey.] olde
Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelt, and was fed there
by wilde Lyons: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee
arrived at Jerusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept open
a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Monastery, wee supped,
and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe Day,
more as 34. miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the
Friers, were making themselves ready to goe with us to the Church
of the Holy Sepulcher, called Sancto Salvatore; where wee were to
stay Good-friday and Satturday, and Easter-Sunday till mid-night:
They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Dyet, carrying
Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruites hither in abundance. Meane while,
a Jew, the Trench-man of the Turkies Sanzacke, came to the Monastery,
and received from every one of us Pilgrimes, first two Chickens of
Gold, for our severall heads, and entrey at Jerusalem: and then nine
Chickens a peece for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chicken
of golde a man, to himselfe the Jew, as beeing due to his place.
[Our tributs for the Holy Grave.] Thus was there twelve Chickens
from each of us dispatched for the Turke: And last one, and all of
us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickens also for the Waxe
Candles and fooleries hee was to spend, in their idle and superstitious
Ceremonies, these three aforesayd nights, which amounted in all to
every one of us, to foureteene Chickens of gold, sixe pounds sixe
shillings starling. So that in the whole from the sixe Germanes,
foure French men, and nine Commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria,
Venetians, and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this
nights labour to a hundred and twenty sixe pounds starling.
This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee
found twelve Venerable like Turkes, ready to receive us, sitting in
the Porch without the Doore; who foorthwith opened at randone the two
great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively:
We being within the doore made fast, and the Turkes returned to the
Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction,
which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an yron Reuele, on
which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed;
after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles Joseph of Arimathea,
was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay: from
thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right
hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained
within this glorious edifice.
[The Holy Grave.] The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell,
standing within a round Quiere, in the west ende of the Church:
It hath two low and narrow entries: As we entred the first doore,
three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two roomes are
wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed
a stone, whereupon (he sayd) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen
came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third
day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, we
saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating
our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion,
offered up his prayers to God.
The Sepulchre it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and
advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three
foote five inches broad, being covered with a faire Marble stone of
white colour.
In this Chappell, and about it, I meane without the utter sides of it,
and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere, there are alwayes
burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes,
who stand most of them within incircling bandes of pure Gold, which
is exceeding sumptuous, having the names of those, who sent or gave
them, ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of
them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another,
with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof
was sent thither by King John of England, whereon I saw his Name,
his Title, and crowne curiously indented, I demanded of the Guardiano
if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was;
but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly
moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof,
which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts
of it should alwaies remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is
Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance,
betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to
forty of my pases: [The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.] This
Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15. couple of Marble Pillars,
and of 22. foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same
Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar wood,
covered with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the
same tree. The Chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe
Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East: to the great
body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many
other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.
The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like unto that
auncient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger,
having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with
magnificent Columnes being open at the top, with a large round;
which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place.
In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we
remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious
Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast
of Easter day, being about 6000. persons: from this curious carved
Chappell we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary; To which
we ascended by twenty one steps, eighteene of them were of Marble,
and three of Cedar-wood: where, [The beauty of Mount Calvary.] when
we came I saw a most glorious & magnifick roome, whose covert was
supported all about with rich columnes of the Porphyre stone, and
the oversilings loaden with Mosaick worke, & overgilded with gold,
the floore being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster and
black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformd rocke,
all covered with thicke and ingraven boords of silver; and in it a
hole of a cubits deepe, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon
our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the
good & bad theeves, were then put to death with him. Discending from
Mount Calvarie, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was
the first proclaimed Christian King of Jerusalem, and refused to be
crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the Servants head should
be crowned with gold, where the Maisters head had beene crowned with
thornes; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:
[Two famous Sepulchers.] Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion,
quitotam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat
in pace.
And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother,
which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.
Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus
Spes patriæ, Vigor Ecclesiæ, Virtus, utriusque;
Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.
Cæsar, Ægypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus;
Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.
The other things within the Church they shewed us, were these, a
Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our Saviour was bound, when he
was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place in a low Celler,
about fourteene stone degrees under the ground, where the Crosse was
hid [Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.] by the Jewes, and found
againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thornes,
which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots
for his Garment; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were
making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse, being laid along upon
the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which
(as they say) rent at his crucifying, which is more likely to be
done with hammers, and set one peece a foote from another, for the
slit lookes, as if it had beene cleft with wedges and beetles. And
yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rocke, but the Temple
that did rent in two from the bottome to the top, wherein these silly
soule-sunke Friers are meerely blinded, understanding no more than
leying traditions; perfiting this their nationall Proverb;
Con arte, et con inganno, ci vivono medzo l' anno
Con inganno et con arte, ci vivona l' altera parte.
With guile and craft, they live the one halfe yeare
With craft and guile, the other halfe as cleare.
And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to shew us where the head
of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtfull,
that I doe not register them for trueth (I meane in demonstrating
the particular places) but onely relates them as I was informed.
There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and language,
who continually (induring life) remaine within this Church, having
incloystered lodgings joyning to the walls thereof: their victuals
are brought dayly to them by their familiars, receiving the same at
a great hole in the Church-doore; for the Turkes seldome open the
entry unlesse it be when Pilgrimes come, save one houres space onely
every Saturday in the afternoone, and at some extraordinary Festivall
daies: and yet it doth not stand open then, but onely opened to let
strangers in and shut againe: [Seven religious Families.] For this
purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with
a string reaching from thence to the Church doore, the end whereof
hangeth outwardly, By the which commodity, each furnisher ringing the
Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come receive their necessars,
for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore,
and returne from it, to the cloyster.
The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about
three hundred and fifty persons, being Italians, Greekes, Armenians,
Æthiopians, Jacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians,
and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia.
The day before the Resurrection, about the houre of mid-night,
the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Orientall (that were come
thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Jerusalem) convened together,
which were about the number of sixe thousand men, women, and children:
for being separated by the Patriarkes in two companies, they compassed
the Chappell of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands
burning Candles, made in the beginning pittifull, and lamentable
regreetings, but in the ending, there were touking of kettle-drummes,
sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dauncing, leaping,
and running about the Sepulcher, with an intollerable tumult, as if
they had beene all mad, or distracted of their wits.
Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere
simplicitie, wanting civilitie, and government. But the Turkes have
a care of that; for in the middest of all this hurley burley, they
runne amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with
cruell stroakes: and so these slavish people, even at the height of
their Ceremonious devotion are strangely abused.
But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a greater regard,
because of our tributes: The Turkes meane while guarding us, not
suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular
dottage of the [An abhominable Idolatry.] Romish folly, being after
this manner: First the Guardian, and his Friers brought forth of
a Sacrastia, allotted for the same purpose, the wodden Portracture
of a dead Corpes, representing our Saviour, having the resemblance
of five bloody Wounds, the whole body of which Image, was covered
with a Cambricke vale: Where having therewith thrice compassed the
Chappell of the Holy Grave, it was carried to mount Calvary, and
there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oyle, Balme,
and Odoriferous perfumes.
Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friers kneeled downe, and
kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turkes meanewhile
laughing them to scorne in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence
they returned, and layd the senselesse blocke uppon the Holy Grave,
whence being dismissed, the Papall Ceremony ended.
Truely hereupon, may I say, if the Romane Jesuites, Dominicans
and Franciscans, there Resident in certayne speciall parts of the
Turkes Dominions, had onely behaved themselves as their polliticke
charge required, and dismissed from the Paganisme eyes, onely their
idolatrous images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like
externall superstitious Rites: These Infidels I say, had long agoe
(without any insight of Religion) bene converted to the Christian
Faith. For besides all this blindnesse, what infinite abhominable
Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spaine; in clothing the Pictures
of dead Abbots, Monkes, Priors, Guardians, and the better kind of
officiall Friers and Priests, with robes of Sattin, Velvet, [Damnable
and intolerable superstition.] Damas, Taffaty, long gownes and coules
of cloth, shirts, stockings, and shoes: And what a number of livelesse
portrayed Prioresses, motherlesse Nunnes, yet infinite mothers,
be erected (like the Maskerata of Morice-dancers) in silver, gold,
gilded brasse, yron, stone, tynne, lead, copper, clay, and timber
shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: over-wrought with
silke, silver, and gold-laces, rich bracelets, silke grograine, and
cambricke vales, chaines, smockes, ruffes, cuffes, gloves, collers,
stockings, garters, pumpes, nose-gayes, beeds, and costly head-geire;
setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for
gods, in kneeling, praying, & saying Masses before them: Yet they are
none of their avowed, allowed, and canonized pontificall Saints: for
although they be bastards & wooden blocks, yet are they better clad,
then their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings
daughter alive. Which is a sinfull, odious, and damnable idolatry;
and I freely confesse at some times, and in some parts I have torne a
peeces those rich garments from their senselesse images and blockes,
thinking it a greater sinne not to do it than to stand staring on
such prodigall prophannesse, with any superstitious respect, or with
indifferent forbearance to winke at the wickednesse of Idolaters.
Here the Guardiano offered for ten peeces of gold (although my due
be thirty Chickens sayd he) to make me Knight of the holy Grave,
or of the order of Jerusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition
of that detestable oath I behooved to have sworne; but I saw two of
these other Pilgrimes receive that Order of Knighthood.
[The Knights of the Holy Grave.] The manner whereof is thus: First they
bind themselves with a solemne vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope,
King of Spaine, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receive
their maintenance; and also in speciall, for the French King, by whose
meanes they obtaine their liberty of the great Turke, to frequent these
monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to Protestants,
and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Romane
Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearely some stipend unto the Order
of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a
gilded spurre on his right heele, causing the yong made Knight stoope
downe on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this
he taketh a broad sword from under his gray gowne (being privately
carried for feare of the Turkes) which is (as he sayd) the Sword,
wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered Jerusalem, and giveth this new
upstart Cavaliero, nine blowes upon the right shoulder. Loe here the
fashion of this Papisticall Knighthood, which I forsooke.
Indeed upon the Knight-hood they have certaine priviledges among the
Papists, of which these are two: If a malefactor being condemned and
brought to the Gallows, any of these Knights may straight cut the rope
and releeve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silkes through
all Spaine and Italy, or elsewhere, and pay no Custome, neither in
comming nor going, nor for any silke ware, where the Romish Church
hath any commandement.
After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies,
upon Easter day, before midnight, we returned to the Monastery, having
stayed three dayes within that Church: And the next day thereafter,
the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning backe to
their severall Stations.
About sixe of the clocke, on monday morning, the Padre Viccario, and
the aforesayd John Baptista accompanying us, we travailed abroad in
the hilly Countrey of Judea. In this dayes journey, the places of any
note we saw were these: [Certaine relicts of Monuments.] First, where
the Daughters of Jerusalem came foorth to meete Saul, crying, Saul
hath slaine his thousand, and David his ten thousand: And for memory
of this standeth a certayne olde pillar of Marble. Next, the valley
of Trebin, where David slew the great Goliath. And for remembrance of
that, there are a great heape of stones layd together in the bottome
of the valley, like to the Relickes of an old monument. Thirdly,
Bezura, where Absalom killed his brother Ammon for Thamars sake,
whereof nothing but the name is onely reserved.
[Emaus.] Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, now altogether ruinated, except
only three fire houses of Moores; in which our Saviour was knowne
after his Resurrection, by the two Disciples in breaking of bread;
where now the remanents of that house being vaulted, is turned over for
a shelterage to sheepe; and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goates.
Fifthly, the Valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sunne stood still,
at the voice of Joshua, from his naturall course. Joshua 10. 12.
Sixtly, the Toombe or buriall place of Samuel, that divine Prophet
of the Lord: over the which the Moores have a Moskque erected,
wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found
one of the finest Fountaines in all Judea, and yet not a dwelling
house neere unto it by three miles, in regard of the sassinous and
infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light,
sweete, and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombes of the
valiant Captaine Judas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are
now onely the ruines of an old Chappell, which is converted in a
[The buriall place of the Kings and Queenes of Israel.] hould for
Sheepe and Goates: And last of all, the buriall place of the noble
Family of the Kings and Queenes of Israel, or Jerusalem, being neere
unto the Citty, and within a short halfe mile. The entry whereto was
so straite, that on our backes we behoved to slide downe, above ten
paces under the ground, with light candles in our hands.
In that spacious place we saw twenty foure Chambers hewen out of
a Marble Rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great
thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that
the rarest spirit of tenne thousand cannot know how these doores have
bene made, so to move as they do, being a firme Rocke both below and
above; and the doores have neither iron nor timber-worke about them:
but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where
they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the
most curious Carpenter cannot joyne a peece of boord so neatly, as
these stone doores joyne with the Rocke. In each of these roomes are
two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.
Thursday, the tenth day of my being at Jerusalem, not reckoning the two
dayes we spent in going to Jordan, the weeke before: We I say, ishued
forth of the Citty earely, with our aforesayd guides, riding Westward:
The first remarkeable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where
the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suffered: being reserved by Greekes,
who have a Convent builded over it: That Crosse is sayd to have bene
of foure sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they shewed us
but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have bene of one
peece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched,
by the pregnancy of riper judgements then mine, howsoever opinious.
[The leying vilany of a Rogish Greeke.] And here I cannot forget a
dissembling knavish Greeke, who came here to London some eight yeares
ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the
holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassadour intertained him;
and recommended his cause to our politicque power: A contribution is
granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled,
besides the severall acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers:
Oportunity come, I rancountred with this counterfeit Rascall in White
hall: Whereupon diverse Gentlemen his Majesties servants, desired me
to try him, if he had bene at Jerusalem, or dwelt at the Cloister of
the holy Crosse: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood,
he replied within Jerusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false,
for the Convent is remote from the Citty, about three English miles:
I posed him further about the situation of Jerusalem, &c. The quantity
of this Cloyster, of its Church, of the number of Friers, who lived
in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be tedious:
To any one of which, he could not reply, but stood shivering for feare
and shame; neither had he never bene in Asia nor these parts: whereupon
stealing out of the Court, he was no more seene abroad: for he had got
at Court, and in the Kingdome, above twelve hundreth pounds starling,
besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was
a tricke, that then the Spanish faction put upon us and themselves
also being deceaved by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit,
policy, and lyes.
About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountaine
of Judea, where we saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the
mother of Saint John Baptist dwelt, when Mary came up from Galilee to
salute her; and neare to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary,
wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Elizabeth was delivered: Two
miles further, on a Rocky Mountaine, [Saint John the Baptists Cave.] we
arrived at a Cave, wherein (say they) S. John did his pennance till
he was nineteene yeare of age, after which time, he went downe and
dwelt at Jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a Rocke, to
the which we mounted by twelve steppes, having a window cut through
a great thicknesse of firme stone, whence we had the faire prospect
of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto,
gusheth forth a most delicious Fountaine.
Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountaine, from
whence we saw the most part of Judea; and to the Westward, in the way
of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits
land, lying also betweene Egypt and Jerusalem: This cloudy height, is
called the mountaine of Judea, because it over-toppeth all the rest
of the mountaines, that circumviron Jerusalem, Palestine, Galilee,
Phenicia, or Samaria. Descending on the South side of the same Hill,
we arrived at Phillips Fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch
of Æthiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some
certaine Madins unto the Moores of the Village, for accoasting the
place, and drinking of the water: So did we also for the sight of
every speciall Monument in Judea.
At night, we lodged in Bethleem, in a Monasterie of the same
Fransciscans of Jerusalem, being onely sixe Friers: After Supper we
went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was
borne; over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea,
the most large and royall workmanship that for a Church is in all Asia,
or Affricke, being decored with a hundred and fifty Pillars. But before
we came where the Crub had beene, we passed certaine difficile wayes;
where, being arrived, wee entered in a gorgeous roome, adorned with
Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster stones; and there they shewed us
[Christs Crub at Bethleem.] both the place and the resemblance of
the Crub: over which were hanging lampes of pure Gold, and within
their circles oyle continually burning. Not farre from that place,
and within the body of the admirable Church, they shewed us the
part, over the which the Starre stayed, that conducted the three
Wise-men from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ,
and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Cave
without the Towne, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when
Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by
the Angell) She and Joseph fled downe into Ægypt with the Child.
In this time of her feare, say they, the milke left her blessed
breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but Shee praying to
the Almighty, there came forthwith abundance, which overflowing her
breasts, and falling to the ground, left ever since, as they alledge,
this consequent vertue to this Cave.
[Admirable dust.] The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath
this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any Liquor,
to a Woman, that after her Child-birth is barren of Milke, shall
forthwith give abundance: which is not onely availeable to Christians,
but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come
from farre Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seene the nature
of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to have
the force of a strange vertue: Of the which earth I brought with me a
pound weight, and presented the halfe of it to our sometimes Gracious
Queene Anne of blessed memory, with divers other rare relicts also,
as a Girdle, and a paire of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly
wrought in silke and gold, having this inscription at every end of
them in golden letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word Jerusalem, &c.
Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twenty Moores to conduct us
unto [Salomons Fish-ponds.] Salomons Fish-ponds, which are onely three,
being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the
water in a stone-Conduit, along the Mountaines, that serveth Jerusalem,
which worke was done by Salomon. The Ponds being hewne out, and made
square from the devalling face of a precipitating mountaine; through
which the streame of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the Ponds till
it come to its owne aquadotte.
Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through
the valley of Hebron, where Jacob dwelt, and entered into the fields
of Sychem, where Jacobs Sonnes kept their fathers Sheepe; and not
far hence, they shewed us a dry Pit, which they called Josephs Pit,
that was at Dothan; wherein he was put by his Brethren, before they
sold him to the Ismaelites.
In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desart of
Ziph, wherein David hid himselfe, when he was persecuted by King
Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings
of salvation unto the Sheepheards. Unto all which parts our Moorish
guard and John Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to
Bethleem, where we stayed the second night.
[The Towne of Bethleem.] Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in
all Judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from
Jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and
Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white Wine, wherewith we
were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about
Jerusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day
following, the Viccario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in
which (sayd hee) was the Tombe of Rachel, Jacobs wife, who died in that
place; as shee was travelling from Padan Aram, with her husband Jacob.
The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a
Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say
they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in travelling. We
saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias
oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of
the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body; as though
the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture
on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed us the place,
where the Starre appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod
to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.
Approaching Mount Sion, we saw a quadrangled dry pond; wherein (say
they) Beersheba the Wife of Urias, was Washing, when David looked
forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust,
gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation;
and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was bewitched by her
beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and godlinesse
decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in
the bloody lists of Murther and Adultery.
Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, [King Davids
pallace.] we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which
hath beene one of the Angles of the ancient Citty; and standeth at the
division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North
part of mount Syon, even to the valley Jehosophat, and so Eastward,
being now filled up with fragments of old walles; and the valley
of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of
Sion, till it joyne also with the narrow valley of Jehosophat, which
invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Jerusalem. Neere to this
demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seene
the blessed Messias, sayd: Now Lord let thy Servant depart in peace,
for mine eyes have seene thy Salvation.
And now lastly uppon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on
Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friers, and John Baptista
(because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was
to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of
the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they)
Peter after his deniall of Christ his maister, wept bitterly.
Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley
Gehinnon, [Acaldema.] and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or
field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to
the devalling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are
invironed with a natural rocke, and the fourth square bordering with
the valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is covered, and hath
three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe;
for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe,
I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding
sheets, and newly dead, lying one above another in a lumpe; yeelded
a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save
onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long
time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.
Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a darke Cave, where (say they)
the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foote of
the same valley, we came to [Ponto Nehemia.] Ponto Nehemia, in which
place the Jewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives
to Babylon; walking more downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat,
we saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein
(said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Jewes made a sacrifice of their
children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot,
they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them:
and least their crying should have moved any compassion towards
them, they made a thundring noise with drums, and other instruments,
whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Jer. 7. 31. Hence
we came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the
water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from the City above,
running straight to the valley of Jehosophat; and there we saw
also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this we
saw a fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash
the Babes clothes and linnen clouts. From thence we crossed the
[Brook Cedron.] Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the valley
of Jehosophat) and is alwaies dry, unlesse it be in December, when
the raine falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is
all the winter they have in these parts: during which time none may
labour, nor travell, but forced to keepe themselves within houses:
Having past I say this Brooke wee came to the Tombes of Absolon and
Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. James was wont to hide himselfe
from the persecuting Jewes. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the
way of Bithania, wee saw these places, where Judas hanged himselfe,
over which there is a vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory
of his selfe murther, and hard by they shewed us where the withered
Figge tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone dyke;
and halfe a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Lepar.
[Lazarus Tomb in Bethania.] Arriving at Bithania, we saw the Castle and
Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from
the grave, after hee had beene 4. dayes dead. It is a singular and rare
Alabaster Tombe, and so exquisitely done, that it excelleth (Jerusalem
excepted) all the monuments in Judea, erected for the like purpose,
being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre
thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed house where Martha,
and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say
they) when he sayd to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.
Leaving this moorish Bithania, being now a Village of no qualitie,
we returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about
mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on
our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.
From this place wee had the full prospect of Jerusalem: For the
City standing upon the edge of a hill, can not be seene all at one
sight; save on this Mountaine, which is two times higher then Mount
Sion. These are the Monuments shewne us upon the [Mount Olivet and
the Places of note thereof.] Mount of Olives: First, the print of the
left foote of our Saviour, in an immoveable stone, which he made when
he ascended to Heaven; the Guardiano told us further, that the right
footes print was taken away by the Turkes; and detained by them in
the Temple of Salomon: But who can thinke our Saviour trode so hard at
his ascention, as to have left the impression of his feete behind him.
Next the place where hee foretold the judgement to come, and the
signes, and the wonders, that should be seene in the Heavens before
that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum
was made, which is a fine chamber under the ground, like a Church,
having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught
his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an agony, when
hee sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, James, and John
slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them;
and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixtly, the
Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ used commonly to pray; in the which
place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and it
was also where Judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on
the ground. Seventhly, they shewed us a stone marked with the Head,
Feete, and Elbowes of Jesus, in their throwing of him downe, when
as they bound him, after hee was taken, and ever since (say they)
have these prints remained there.
And lastly, at the foote of mount Olivet, in the valley of Jehosophat,
we descended by a paire of staires of forty three steppes, and sixe
paces large, in a faire Church builded under the ground: Where (say
they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did
show it unto us, whom (they thinke) was borne in Jerusalem, dwelt at
Bethleem, and Nazareth, and dyed uppon mount Syon. [Sacred and singular
Tombes.] I saw also there, the Sepulchers of Joseph her husband,
Joachim her Father, and of Anna her mother. And for which sights
paying sixteene Madins a man, to certaine Moores: we returned to our
Monastery againe night to repose us, having seene all the Antiquities
and places of note, were to be seene, in, and about all Judea.
Loe, I have plainely described all these Monuments, by the order
of these twelve severall dayes: The like heretofore, was never by
a Travailer so punctually, so truly, and so curiously set downe,
and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I sayd in the
beginning of my Description, so say I now also at the Conclusion,
some of these things are Rediculous, some of manifest untruths,
some also doubtfull, and others, somewhat more credible, and of
apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used,
as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian,
Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman John Baptista.
Now in Jerusalem, wee eleaven Frankes stayed three dayes longer,
preparing our selves for a new Voyage to go downe to Egypt with a
Caravan of Grand Cayro: In which time the aforesaid Frier Laurenzo,
whose life I had saved on the Quarantanam, propined me privatly with
twelve Crosses made of the Olive Wood of mount Olivet: Each Crosse
having 24. Relickes indented in them, with fourty paire of Chaplets
made of that same Wood, two Turkish Handkerchiefes, and three paire of
Garters and Girdles of the Holy Grave: All wrought in silke and Gold,
with diverse other things, &c. Which were not so thankfully received,
as they were thankfully given, by a gratefull and unforgetfull
Frier. Meanewhile, the last day of our staying there, we went all of
us Friers and Pilgrimes in againe to the Holy Grave, where we remained
al night. Earely on the morrow there came a fellow to us, one Elias
Areacheros, a Christian inhabitour at Bethleem, and purveier for the
Friers; who did ingrave on [The Armes of Jerusalem.] our severall Armes
upon Christs Sepulcher the name of Jesus, and the Holy Crosse; beeing
our owne option, and desire: and heere is the Modell thereof. But I,
decyphered, and subjoyned below mine, the four incorporate [King James
his foure Crownes.] Crowns of King James, with this Inscription, in
the lower circle of the Crowne, Vivat Jacobus Rex: returning to the
fellow two Piasters for his reward: I fixt these lines for King James.
Long may he live, and long may God above
Confirme, Reward, Encrease his Christian love:
That He (blest King of men) may never cease
To keep this Badge, the sacred Prince of Peace;
And there's the Motto, of His Maiden Crowne,
Hæc nobis invicta miserunt, ne're wonne.
Which when the Guardian understood, what I had done in memory of
my Prince upon that Sacred Tombe, hee was greatly offended with me,
that I should have polluted that Holy place, with the name of such
an Arch-enemy to the Romane Church. But not knowing how to mend
himselfe, and hearing me to recite of the Heroick Vertues of our
matchlesse Monarch: who for Bounty, Wisedome, and Learning, was
not paragonized among all the Princes of the earth: His fury fell;
and begun to intreate me, to make it knowne to his Majesty, that
hee never allowed any support to their afflicted lives, neyther any
gratuity for maintayning of those Sacred Monuments at Jerusalem,
his subjects being as free here as they. Which indeed I performed,
for after my arrivall in England, and having propined his Majesty
with diverse rare things, and a Turpentine rod from Jordan; in the
midst of my Discourses, I told his Highnesse, in the Privy Garden of
Greenewich, the Guardians request. Who indeed gave me a most gracious
answere, saying, They never sought any helpe of him, and if they had,
he would have supported their necessity. Bidding farewell to the Church
of St. Salvatore, and being re incloystred againe, after breakfast,
the reckoning of Stridor Dentium came to us, [Of English money.] for
17. dayes diet, being to each man six shillings a day, amounting for my
part to 5 pounds two shillings. Then the Guardians Secretary, presented
me my Patent under their Great Seale; & that cost me 3. Chickens
of Gold. The beginning whereof I recall, although the principall,
[The Discourse of the Seale is in the page following.] be lost in
the Inquisition of Malaga, was thus: Frater Gaudentius Saybantus
ordinis minorum regularis observantiæ Sancti Antonii Dei & Apostolicæ
sedis gratia, Sacri montis Sion Guardianus, Terræ sanctæ gubernator &
custos; ac in partibus orientis Apostolicus Commissarius, salutem in
Domino sempiternam. Notum vobis facimus, &c. The Contents whereof,
reciting all the memorable things I saw within the Holy Land, there
was thereunto annexed their Great Seale, sticking fast, or locked
in upon the lower face of the Parchment, the impression whereof,
had the Effigies of the twelve Apostles, and Christ in the midst:
having this Circumscription about: Magnum sigillum Sacri montis Sion
Guardianus. The model whereof is affixed in the former page.
Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Interpreter to reward,
every one of us propining him with two Chickens of gold: And lastly wee
gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cymerian Cooke,
and his Ætnean face, with a Chicken of gold the man, from each of us:
amounting in all among the foure Catzocullioni, to twenty foure pounds
fifteene shillings sterling.
Nay this was not all; for even when the Ægyptian Caravan,
was staying for us without the City, the Guardian [Greedy and
flattering Friers.] made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our
bounties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses,
and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other
base & flattering speeches: which indeed nine of us refused, because of
the great Extortion he had imposed uppon us before; but the two Germane
Barons gave him the value of sixe English pounds, or there abouts.
And now finally, or I leave mount Syon, I thinke it not amisse, to give
the itching Travailer a frozen stomacke, who perhaps soweth Words in
the Wind, conceptions in the Ayre, and catcheth Salmond swimming on
Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed
within the Wals of Jerusalem, not reckoning my journall expences
and tributs else where abroad; arising to eighteene pounds sixteene
shillings starling: And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and
imaginary inventions: And it may serve also, to damnifie the blind
conceit of many who thinke that Travellers are at no charges, goe where
they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false,
as an hereticall errour. May the twelfth, and the eighteene day of
my staying there, about mid-day, the other ten and I joyned with the
Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Ægypt,
and to furnish the rest Camels or Dromidories to ride upon, (for I
would never ride any) for nineteene Piasters the man, discharging us
also all tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way;
and so we marched through the South-west part of Judea towards Idumea,
or the Edomits land; and meane-while I gave [The Authors good night
to Jerusalem.] Jerusalem this goodnight, &c.
Thrice sacred Sion, sometimes blazd abrode,
To be the Mansion, of the living God;
For Prophets, Oracles, Apostles deare
And godly Kings, who raisd great glory here:
Where Aarons rod, the Arke, and Tables two,
And Mannaes Pot, fire of sacrifice so
From Heaven that fell: were all inclos'd in Thee
Containing neare, what not contaynd could be:
To thee sweet Sion, and thine eldest daughter,
Which Titus fiercely sackt with Jewish slaughter:
And to thy second birth, raisd to my sight
I prostrate bid, thy blessed bounds goodnight:
Next for the Holy land, which I have trac'd,
From end to end; and all its beauty fac'd;
Where Kings were stall'd, disthron'd, defac'd, renown'd,
Cast downe, erect'd, unscepterd, slayne, and crown'd:
The land of promise, once a Sea of Oyle
Whence milke and honey flowd; yea, too a soyle
Where men, and might, like miracles were raisd
Sprung from a Garden plot: A wonder praisd
Above conceit: whose strength did farre excell
All other lands; take thou my kind farewell.
And last Franciscan Friers, O painted Tombes!
Where vice and lust lurke low, beneath your wombes;
Whose hearts, like Hell, doe gape for greed of gold,
That have Religion, with your conscience sold,
To you I say a poxe, O flattering Friers!
And damn'd deceivers, borne & bred for Leyers,
Whose end my purse implores; O faithlesse fellowes!
And leaves you for your paines, curst Hamans gallowes.
Having bid farewell to Syon, we marched that afternoone in the way
of Gaza; and arrived at night in a [Kind Jewes to us Franks.] goodly
Village, more full of Jewes than Moores, called Hembaluda, situate
on the face of a fruitfull hill, and the last limit of Judea: Here
the Germanes and I were well intertained gratis, by certaine Jewes
that spoke Italian, and much rejoyced to see such strangers in these
bounds, for two of them had beene borne in Venice: The Captaine,
and our company were all Ægyptians, all of them being Christians,
called Copties, viz. beleevers: Their number was about eight hundred
persons, who had come up from Ægypt, to dignify for devotions sake
this Easter time, being the great feast of Jerusalem; Of whom by the
way we received great affability & kind respect without any offence.
That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within
the Towne making merry with our Hebraick friends, earely the next
morning wee imbraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land
sorely distressed by the Arabs, and yet the Inhabitants were subject
to the Turke: In this long dayes journey we found abundance of water,
and all other necessaries for our reliefe, and yet the people were
both rude & extreame barbarous, having no more show of humanity then
the foure footed Leopards of Berdoa.
The Dutch Gentlemen grew affrayed at these savages, as being
unacquainted before with such an awful sight; and to dispell their
feare, tush sayd I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flashd
over these lines in Italian to them;
To gallant mindes, all kind of soyles they be,
Their native land; as fish imbrace the Sea:
For they who would traverse earths variant face,
Must take their hazard, as they finde the place;
And that's my soyle, best meanes can me defray,
But Sirs be glad, wee came not here to stay.
[The auncient City of Gaza.] Againe night we declined towards Gaza,
and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the
whole Caravan, Souldiers, Camels, Dromodores, Mules, and Asses were all
well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan
or market place, and there furnished our selves with provision of
Bread, Hens, Egges, Garlicke, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry
us through the desarts being ten dayes journey. Gaza now is called
Habalello, and is composed of twelve hundred fire-houses, and sensible
against the incursions of Arabs: The ruvid Cittizens, being Turkes,
Moores, Jews, domeseticke Arabians, with a few Georgians, & Nostranes.
There is a Garrison here of Souldiers, and a Turkish Captaine, that
commandeth the Towne and Castle: In the afternoone, we set our faces
forward to that fearefull Wildernesse, and travailed or night twelve
miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our
Guard, kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the
Germanes from langour, cherishing them with joviall merriments, for
they were my inward friends, yet of a faint and fearefull nature. At
the breach of day we set forward, passing through diverse Rockey and
shrubby heights, till afternoone, and then wee declined to a sandy
valley: Where when come, what with the deepnesse [Burning Sands.] of
the Way, and the great heate reflexing upon the sand, and from the
Sand to our faces, we were miserably turmoiled, especially I, who
went alwayes on foote.
Having past this wearisome bottome, and before night marching along
the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broake out upon us from
holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrowes, till
a contribution of sixteene Piasters was sent to them. The halfe of
that night we pitched our Tents, in a pastorable [Wild Arabs selling
water.] plaine, where some scattering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden
Cups, carrying it in Wilde Boare skins upon their naked backes. Two
of which Savages our Captayne hyred, to guide us the next day to
the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turkes, and a
dayes journey distant one from another; beeing each of them strongly
guarded with Souldiers, and that for the reliefe of Caravans, being
the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Desarts.
Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest
places of the Country, where we found certayne profitable parts,
planted with haire-cloath tents, and over-cled heere and there with
spots of Sheepe and Goates: and yet were we not there without the
invasion of stragling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the
Captaine defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so
at Jerusalem. Before night with great heat, and greater drouth, we
approached to the first Castle, where the Captayne thereof received us
kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the Quadrangled
Tower. Here we had abundance of Water (though I would rather have
had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawne out of a Cisterne, and
reposing safely uppon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us,
and our guard watched them.
[Grievous and desertuous travelling.] Thence with a new Guide the
sequell morne, we marched through a fiery faced plaine, scorch'd with
burning heate, and deepe rolling Sand, where diverse of our smallest
Beasts perished, with sixe men and Women also in relieving their
overwhelmed Asses. Long or midday, having got to a hard height, we
pitched our Tents, reposing under their shaddowes till the evening,
for wee were not able to indure the intollerable heate of the Sun;
and so did wee likewise over-umbrate our selves every mid-day. The
vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced
forward to the middle Castle, being led by our Guide, and the pale
Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, wee found neyther
that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captaine so
humane as the other was: Here wee were all offended with the scarcity
of Water, the Captayne playing the Villaine, crossed us, because the
Caravanship were Christians; at last about mid-night some 30. Arabs,
came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backes. To whom we
payed for every Caraff, beeing an English quart, three Aspers of
silver, ten Aspers going to a shilling: Whereof my kinde Dutch-men
drunke too much, the Water being thicke and of a brounish colour;
and hot like pisse, offended their over-wained stomackes; which as I
supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.
After mid-night, the Turkish Captaine, and our Caravan fell at
variance, about Water to our Beasts, who were ready to choake, and
if they had not bin prevented with Souldiers on both sides, it had
drawne us and them, to a finall mischiefe. The discord unpacified,
before the following day, and within night, we imbraced our wilsome
and fastidious Way, journying through many dens, and umbragious
Caves, over-shaded with mouldring heights; [Savage women having their
Child-bed in Caves.] in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in
their Barbarous child-bed: having their bodies naked (the fore-face
of their Wombe excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, and
over-spread with leaves a foote thicke; whose new borne Babes lying
in their armes, were swadled with the same Leaves. And for all their
sicknesse, which was very small, they had none of our Wives sugred
sops, burnt Wines, Venison pasties, Delicate fare, and great Feasting,
nor a moneths lying in, and then Churched, putting their husbands to
incompatible charges. No, no, their food is onely Bread, Garlicke,
Hearbes, and Water, and on the third or fourth day, in stead of their
Churching, they goe with Bowes and Arrowes to the fieldes againe,
hunting for spoiles and booties from passing Caravans.
Advancing in our course, we fell downe from the hils in a long
bottome of Sand, above sixe miles in length: Wherein with sore
Wrestling agaynst the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch
our Tents to over shade us; three of our Germans, the two Barons,
Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio,
tumbled downe from their beasts backes starke dead, being [The death
of three Germane Gentlemen.] suffocated with the vigorous Sunne, for
it was in May, choaked also with extreame drouth, and the reflection
of the burning sand; and besides their faire was growne miserable,
and their Water worse, for they had never beene acquainted with the
like distresse before, though it was alwayes my vade Mecum. Whereupon
the Caravan staied and caused cast on their Corpes againe, on their
owne beasts backes, and carrying them to the side of a hard Hill, we
digged a hollow pit, and disspoyling them of their Turkish cloathes,
I did with my owne hands cast them all three one above another,
in that same hole, and covering the Corpes with mouldring earth,
the Souldiers helped me to role heavy stones above their grave, to
the end, that the bloody Jackals should not devoure their corpes;
and to conclude this woefull and sorrowfull accident, the other
Germanes alive bestowed on me their dead friends Turkish garments,
because of my love and diligent care I ever did show them; which one
of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cairo.
Whence with diverse assaults, and greater paines, accoasting [The third
Castle of the desarts.] the third Castle, with as great bewailing
the losse of our friends, as we had contentment in our owne safety,
we found this third Captayne both humane and hospitable: Who indeede
himselfe in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a
speciall care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captayne
and us eight Frankes before supper, with three roasted Hens, and
two Capons: This Turkish Captayne told us there were three inhabited
Townes in these Desarts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on
the Red Sea, having a harbor and shipping, that Trade both to Ægypt
and Æthiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffes and Spices which
they transport from Meccha, and carrie to Melinda, and the afore-sayd
places in Affricke: But now least I sinke in Prolixity, discoursing of
sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverbe, Chi troppo abbracio,
nulla stringe, viz. That he who would imbrace too much, can hold
nothing fast. I decist from this Journall proceeding, and punctuall
Discourse of my laborious Pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader
(I having layd open more than halfe of the Wildernesse) may (like that
learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foote on the
Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraicture of his whole body thereby)
easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequell sight of these
Desartuous places; and therefore the rest, I will onely Epitomize in
generall till mine arrivall at Saleack on the Confines of Ægypt.
[The bounds of the three Arabias.] Arabia is bounded on the West,
with the Red Sea, and the Ægyptian Istmus: On the North with Canaan,
Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian gulfe,
Caldea, and Assiria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea:
This Countrey lyeth from the East to the West, in length about 900. and
some 3500. miles in compasse. The people generally are addicted
to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanicall
or Civill, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on
foote, scelerate, and seditious, boysterous in speech, of colour
Tauny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry:
Notwithstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare Belly,
their food also semblable, to their ruvid condition, and as savagiously
tame (I protest) as the foure footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not
valourous, nor desperate in assaults without great advantage, for a
100. Turkes is truely esteemed to be sufficient enough to incounter
300. Arabs. Their language extendeth it selfe farre both in Asia,
and Affricke, in the former, through Palestine, Syria, Mesopotamia,
Cilicia, even to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Ægypt,
Libia, and all the Kingdomes of Barbary even to Morocco.
This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandred
forty yeares long, being fed with Manna from Heaven, and with water
out of the driest rocks: In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of
the two [The scurrile Arabian Desarts.] Tables was promulgated. The
most part of these Desarts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage,
being covered over with a dry, and a thicke Sand, which the wind
transporteth whither it listeth, in heapes and mountaines, that often
intercept and indanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here
are few, so are their Cities, their dwellings being in sequestrate
dennes and haire-cloath Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth
in Camels Dromidories, and Goats.
Before our arrivall in Saleak, we passed the little Istmus of ground
which parteth Asia, and Affrica, disjoyning the Mediterranean and the
red Seas: Divers have attempted to digge through this strait to make
both Seas meete for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King
of Ægypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch:
Thirdly, another Ægyptian King, who drew a ditch 100. foote broad,
and 30. and odde miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was
forced to cease, for feare of overflowing all the lower land, the red
Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the ordinary plaine
of Ægypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts,
and fastidious, because of sands to passe over.
At Saleack we overtooke a great Caravan of two thousand people, and
twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware
of Aleppo, and come from Damascus, intending their voyage for Cayro,
whose company we subtilly left, & marchd before them, for receiving
of water by the way for our selves, and beasts out of Cisternes,
which we left dry behind us.
[The nature of Camels and Dromidores.] A Dromidore, and Camel differ
much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth,
and length; save only their heads and feete, which are proportionated
alike; and the difference is such, that the Dromidory hath a quicke
and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80. miles in the day, if
that his rider can indure the paine. But the Camell is of a contrary
disposition: For he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the
one foote from the other, as though he were weighing his feete in
a ballance; neither can he goe faster although he would: But he is
a great deale more tractable then the other: For when his maister
loadeth him, he falleth downe on his knees to the ground, and then
riseth againe with his burthen, which will be marvailous great,
sometimes 600. or 800. weight.
The red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand
is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas:
The reason for which it hath beene called Mare rubrum, is only because
of the bankes, rushes, sands & bushes that grow by the shore side,
which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect
of the Brookes, which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing
the true sense, tooke Seas, for Rivers.
It is vulgarly tearmed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is
1600. miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous passage of the
Israelites through it, and the drowning of Pharaoh and his people:
and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to
Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through
all Europe and the Mediterren coasts of Asia and Affrick: But this
Navigation is now discontinued by the Portugals, English, and Dutch;
which bring such Wares to their severall homes by the backe side
of Affricke: So that the Trafficke [Indian Spices much weakned.] of
Alexandria is almost decayed, and the Riches of the Venetians much
diminished; so is the vertue of the Spices much impayred by too much
moisture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.
This afore-sayd Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and
Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses,
being Walled and fensible against the Arabs, and defended also with a
Castle, and ten troupes of Horse-men being Janizaries. Here we rested
and refreshed our selves two nights, providing us fresh victuals for
Grand-Cairo, being foure dayes journey distant; and at our leaving
of Saleack, I saluted this new seene Countrey, with a greedy conceit
of more curiosities.
THE SEAVENTH PART.
Now well met Egypt, so our fate allots,
For we have appetite, for thy Flesh pots;
But (ah!) the Season, is too hot to eate
Of any viande, Kid, Mutton, or such meate:
Yet for thy Coffa made of Coave seede,
We'le kindly drinke it, feed upon thy bred
And fat our selves, with thy best hearbes and fruits
For like, to our faint stomackes, best besuites:
Then mighty Kingdome, once the Royall Land,
Where Kings were first erect'd, did longest stand;
And letters, Hyeroglophicks, Magicke Arte,
Astrology, had first inventions part.
For wonders, the Piramedes: Balme more good!
The weeping Crocadile, Nyles swelling flood;
Deaths funerall Mommeis; the Sea-horse bred
At Damieta: the Sphynx with grandure cled:
And where base Fortune, play'd the errand whoore,
In making meane men great, and great men poore:
In thee, I'le dive, though deep is thine old ground,
And further far, then I can search or sound:
Yet when men shoot, O all the marke doe eye;
But seldome touch't; enough, if they come nye:
Even so must I, for neerer I'le not claime,
The best director, may mistake his ayme.
But as the Land is now, I hope I shall
Cleare hardest doubts, and give content to all.
Thence sought I Malta, Ætnaes burning flame,
And stately Sicile, Gibels greatest fame.
Whence passing Italy, the Alpes I crost,
And courting France, told Time, how I was tost.
Departing from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which
is our twelve miles, wee reincountred with infinite Villages on both
hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificiall Channels
drawne from Nylus; and these Fabrickes, onely made up of Wood or
Bricke, being one or two Stories high. The Captaine, in diverse
parts at our mid-dayes reposing, was constrayned to buy water from
the Egyptians, to satisfie the Company: yea, and that same night,
the first of foure, or we came to Cayre, at the Village of Bianstare,
he payed five Sultans of gold for Watering all us and the Beasts,
amounting to thirty five shillings sterling.
The next day journying towards a goodly Towne, named Saliabsteck, we
travailed through a fruitful planure, fraught full of fruite Trees,
and abounding in Wheate, [Two seasons of riping graine in Egypt.] Rye,
and Barley, being new cut downe, May 14. For this was their first
Harvest, the Land yeelding twice a yeare Cornes; and the latter,
is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continuall
Summer, and notwithstanding of the burning heate, it produceth alwayes
abundance of Fruites and Hearbes for all the Seasons of the yeare:
So that the whole Kingdome is but a Garden, having ever one Fruite
ready to be plucked downe, and another comming forwards; or like to
the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some Reape, some are growing
greene, others budding forth, and some still in the floorish: Even so
is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Ægypt; which although the
Country be not often troubled with Raine, yet the rank serene or dew
of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kindes of growing things:
betweene Saliabsteck, and Cayre, being two dayes journey: We Francks,
bad farwell to water, and drunke daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coave,
which being taken hot, and is ever kept boyling within Fornaces in
earthen pots, it expelleth the crudity of fruites and hearbes so much
there frequented.
Arriving at last in this little World, the great Cairo, and bidding
farewell to our Caravan, the three Germanes and I, lodged with one
Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other foure
French men, going to their owne Consul, a Marseilian borne and there
stayed. Here with this Venetian for three dayes, the Dutch men and
I had great cheare, but they far greater a dayly swallowing downe of
strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I intreated
them to forbeare, but they would not be requested. The season being
cruell hot, and their stomacks surfeited with burning wine, upon
the fourth day long or noone, [The last three Germanes death in
Cayre.] the three Dutch men were all dead; and yet me thought they
had no sicknesse, the red of their faces staying pleasant, their eyes
staring alwayes on mine, and their tongues were perfit even to the
last of their breath.
He who dyed last, and lived longest, was William Dierganck, who left me
all his owne gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering
me the keyes of their three Clogbags before the Consul, declared
by his mouth that he left me absolute heire to intromet with all,
and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoones the treacherous Consul,
knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at
Jerusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold,
forgd a reason to himselfe and for his owne benefit, that he would
meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would
be answerable to their friends for it, at his returne to Venice: Well,
I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for
them all three in a Copties Chappell, where I interred them: paying to
the Ægyptian Christians for that eight foote of ground, ten Sultans of
gold, besides sixe Piasters for carrying their corps hither, being two
miles in the City distant from the Consuls house. Whence, ere I had
returned, the Venetian Factor seased upon all, and shuting his gate
upon my face, sent me out my owne budget: Whereupon I addressed my
selfe to the French Consul, Monsieur Beauclair, who kindly received
me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged &
oppressed by the other Consul; he straight sent for a Jewish Phisitian,
his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day
earely we went all three, and their followers to the Beglerbeg, or
governour of the City: we soone complained, and were as soone heard:
the Venetian Consul is sent for, and he commeth: where facing the
Judge and [A favourable Turkish judgement.] pleading both our best,
(for there are no Lawyers in Turky every man speaking for him selfe)
the Bassaw with his Counsell upon sight of the keyes of their Clogbags
in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and notwithstanding favouring
the Factor) immediatly determined that I should have the two part
of their moneyes, with all their Jerusalem relicts, and Turkish
cloathes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is
done, and irrevocable, upon which the Jewish Doctor, and I, with
two Janizaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the
Jew the keyes, the Clogbags were opened, and the money being told,
it came just to 1424. Chickens of gold, besides certaine rings &
tablets: The Jew delivered me my part, which came to 942. Chickens,
the rest went to the inconscionable Consul, with the halfe of the
rings & tablets: And packing up all the relicts, moneyes, clothes,
and Clogbags, I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the
French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beauclair, and my
fellow Pilgrimes, were very glad that I had sped so well, none of us
all knowing what was in the Clogbags till they were sighted; & giving
hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten peeces of gold to the Jew and
Janizaries, I sup'd, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my
good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowfull for the losse of these
gallant Gentle-men, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for
familiarity and kindnesse, they were the mirrours of noble mindes,
and vertuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to mee a Hell,
and whose lives had beene my Paradice on earth. To whose memory and
prayse, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their
Heroicke dispositions, deserved at my hands.
But what shall I say, their time was come, which mortality might
sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deafe to
all humane lamentations. Neyther will I relye so much upon my owne
worthinesse, as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my
[Gods provident mercies.] Life, was by any merite of mine deserved,
but that God so much the more, might show his incomprehensible
goodnesse in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected
accidents, and to tye my soule to be thankfull for his mercies. For
all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are eyther
perfited, or disanulled by his Determination: and nothing we possesse
is properly our owne, or gotten by our owne power, but given us onely
through his goodnesse and munificence.
And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we
enjoy, and the excellent faculties wee are indued withall; or what
we can do, say, or thinke, is onely raised, guided, and distributed,
by Gods impenetrable Counsell, Will, and Providence: Which although
the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attribution
thereunto; yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such,
that in it selfe, it proveth an eternall wisdome, and confoundeth
the foolishnesse of the world.
[The great City of Grand Cayre.] This incorporate World of Grand Cairo,
is the most admirable and greatest City, seene upon the earth, being
thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous,
but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plaine, and in
the heart of Ægypt, kissing Nylus at some parts.
The City is divided in five Townes, first and formost, Cairo novo,
the new Caire, which is the principall & chiefest place of all the
other, lying in midst of the rest, having walles and Ports, the
circuit whereof is 22. miles, contayning al the chiefe merchandise
and market places within it.
The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Caire, called formerly Cairo de
Babylonia or Babylon Ægyptiorum: for there were two Babylons, one in
Assiria called now by the Turkes Bagdat, and the other is this that
joyneth with the new Caire: It was also aunciently called Memphis,
and was the furthest place that Ulysses in his travels visited,
so well memorized by Homer: yet a voyage of no such estimation, as
that princely Poet accounted it; for his travels were not answerable,
to the fifteene part of mine.
The third Towne is Medin, joyning to the backe side of the old Caire,
toward the Piramides: The fourth is Boulak, running a great length
downe along and neare the River side, having three market places of
no small account: The fift and last, is the great Towne of Caraffar,
bending Southward, in the way of the red Sea for many miles: All
which are but as Suburbs to the new Caire, that of many smalles make
up a Countrey, rather then a City: And yet all of them are contiguat
one with another, either to the left or right hand, or to them both,
with innumerable streets: [The length of great Cayre and the bounds
thereof.] The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak,
to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deepe experience twenty
eight English miles, and fourteene in breadth; for tryall whereof I
troad it one day on foote from Sun to Sunne, being guided and guarded
with a riding Janizarie, which for my bruised feete on the streets,
was one of the sorest dayes journey that ever I had in my life.
The principall gates of new Caire are Babell Mamstek looking
toward the Wildernesse and the Red Sea: Bebzavillah toward Nylus,
and Babell Eutuch toward the fields: The streets are narrow, being
all of them almost covered to save them from the parching heate with
open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories
high, composed either of mudde or bricke, and platforme on the tops;
whereon usually in the night they use to sleepe to imbrace the fresh
& cooling ayre. Their Bazar or exchange, beginneth at the gate of
Mamsteck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.
At the corners of chiefe streets or market places, there are divers
horses standing ready sadled and bridled, that for a small matter,
or according to the way, a man may hire and ride so where he will,
either to negotiat, or to view this spacious spred City, and change
as many horses as he listeth, having the Maisters which owe them to
convoy them for lesse or longer way, which is a great ease to weary
passengers.
There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations, for by
their concurring hither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite
numbers: for the Countrey aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe,
Honey, and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, besides many
other commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffes of cloth of gold and
silver, and the best Sattins, Damas, Taffaties, and Grograines that
are made in the world are here.
The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreame heate,
is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: insomuch, that
at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have dyed in one day:
Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there dye but one,
or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare,
I meane, when the soare encroaching pestilence, which every third
yeare useth to visite them, is rife here.
[Divers nations residing in Cayre.] In this Towne a Traveller may
ever happily finde all these sorts of Christianes, Italians, French,
Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, Syrians,
Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Slavonians, captivat
Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and
their owne Ægyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be
beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of
Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turkes, tawny Moores, white Moores,
blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians,
Sabuncks, Berdoanes, Jewes, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian
Sarazens. All which are Mahometans, and Idolatrous Pagans.
From the great Palatiat Mansion, where the Begler-Beg, or Vicegerent
hath his residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have
the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the gardens and
Villages bordering on Nylus, and a great part of the lower plaines
of Ægypt. Their Lawes heere and Heathnish Religion, are Turkish and
Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like
unto their birth and breeding, beastly and Barbarous; being great
Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abhominations.
The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom [The Egyptian
decorements.] over, weare Rings of gold or silver, through the hollow
of their noses, both endes of their mouthes, and in their under lips;
hanging rich pearles, and precious stones to them; wearing also about
their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds
of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort can not attayne unto,
then they counterfeit their Betters, with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds
of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not
worthy to live, unlesse they weare these badges.
They also use here, as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women
to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the
like. They weare here linnen breeches and Leather bootes as the men
do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gownes, wee
would hardly know the one from the other. [The Egyptian Christians.] As
for the Religion of the Copties or Ægyptian Christians, they are
Circumcised, after the Judaicall manner, but not after the eight day,
but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of
Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by
Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the
Copties them selves say, they have their Religion from Prester Jehan,
and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and
the other.
They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other,
thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and
then on their breasts, and kissing them, the salutation is done.
[The Copties Religion.] They will not suffer no Images, nor Pictures to
be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse,
sayd in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia, for the reall Body
and Blood of Christ: Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints,
and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is
commonly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the
like, and all the people Orientall.
The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall
Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and
Astrologians, and are yet [The nature of the Egyptian Moores.] indued
with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat sloathfull, and
given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable
Companions; and no wonder, the Land being so plentifull, and their
nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate
affections. Neyther doe they live long, in regard of the great heate
they indure. Ægypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the
Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attayne
to threescore yeares of age.
In all this Land of Ægypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no
running Well or Fountayne, save onely the River Nylus: Neyther do
the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see
any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them,
it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And
yet for abundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth
yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with Ægypt; whereupon it was
called in the time of the Romanes, as well as Sicilia, Horreum populi
Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther
is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of are
brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece. The defect being thus, these
Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcoran,
wil neyther plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting
it a deadly sin to drinke Wine, but for Coffa, and Sherpet, composed
Liquors, they drinke enough of.
[The Garden of Balsamo.] As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein
it groweth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed
with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded
by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Janizary,
they would not suffer me to enter, neyther any Christian, & far lesse
the Jewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this
Balme was brought to confusion; they having the custody of it for
certayne yeares.
The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth
evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe,
which being thrice in the yeare incised in the body and branches;
it yeeldeth a red Water that droppeth downe in earthen Vessels,
which is the naturall Balsamo.
And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called
Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, whereunto
the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which
dead bodies remayne alwayes unputrified, neyther yeeld they a stinking
smell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day, by the whole
Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought
from thence, and doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The
colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.
Now having viewed, and review'd this Microcosmus of the greater World,
the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did [The pyramides of Egypt.] hire
a Janizary to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds
wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing
beside or neare to the bankes of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld
their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller
to the toppe, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part
whereof, are five foote broade, or there abouts, and nine in length,
beeing of pure Marble.
All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply
Recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the Beholder,
may testifie their excessive greatnesse and height. The first and
East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull
Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis,
or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing
every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace
two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide, having outwardly to ascend
upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred foure
score and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foote high,
and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in
height to the afore-sayde Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve
inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest
Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the
broken degrees here and there: I was much ravished, to see such a large
foure squared plat-forme, all of one intyre stone, which covered the
head; each square extending to seaventeene foote of my measure.
It is yet a great marvaile to me, by what Engine, they could bring
it up so safe to such a hight: But as I conceive it, they behoved
certaynely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advanced
the Worke, otherwise the Wit nor power of man, could never have done
it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was
stricken in admiration: For before wee ascended, or came neare to
this Pyramide, the toppe of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond;
but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my
opinion, it would have contayned a hundred men.
[The greatest piramide of the three.] In the bottome whereof we found
a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage,
a foure angled Roome; wherein there was standing the Relickes of
a huge and auncient Toombe, where belike hee that was the first
Founder of this Pyramide was inclosed. From the top of this Pyramide,
our Jannizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force,
thinking thereby it should have fallen to the ground; but as we
discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying uppon the steps,
scarse halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle
Pyramide, which a far off looked somewhat higher then the other two,
but when we came to the roote thereof, wee found it not so, for the
stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height,
is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.
It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend
upon, neyther hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of
time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such
Masses, and (as it were) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The
reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so
diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were
first called Pharaones.
Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops,
who in this worke imployed 100000. men, [The charges of the greatest
pyramide.] the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges
of Garlick, Rootes, and Onions onely, came to 1600. talents of
silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It
is recorded by Josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses,
that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were inforced to make,
were partly imployed about the insides of these Piramides, whose
outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of
that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his
daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his
building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father,
desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one
stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second
Piramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones,
there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome
in the time of her supreame domination.
Betweene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of
an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone,
erected on a round Rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columne)
above 815. foote, and of circuite, 68. Pliny gave it the name Sphingo,
and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it:
but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve my selfe,
it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire
peece) the world affoordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the
rarest wonders: Some say, that aunciently it was an Oracle, the which
so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Egyptians,
of any thing by them demanded.
In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the banke
of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the
ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the
Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene
in that River, whose body was twenty two foote long, and in compasse
of the shoulders, eight foote, who thus was slaine: This beast for
foure yeares together kept alwaies about one place of the River,
being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there
was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him layd wast: and
neverthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome
was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres;
where here and there he would lurke waiting for his prey till ten,
for longer from water he could not stay.
[A resolute Venetian Merchant.] This Venetian leaving his ship
at Alexandria, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul
my adversary of the great spoyle done by this beast: and herewith
generously he undertooke to kill it, the Vicegerent licentiating him:
Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner, and a peece
of Ordonance to Cayre.
The next day in the afternoone, hee being well horsed, and accompanied
with twenty Janizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles
accustomary place, of forthcomming: where straight there was an Asse
slaine, and hung up on two standing and a thwarting tree, with his
open belly to the flood, and some twelve scorepaces therefrom: Behinde
this carkasse, about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and
levelld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of
powder about the touch-hole, and above it a night-house to keepe the
trayne dry from the nights serene: having a cock fastned thereto,
and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty
paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner;
wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head
vayled with a wooden covert.
After this, and about mid-night, the Horse-men retired themselves two
miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile
courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it,
and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make
good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving
his time, drew the string, [The killing of a great Crocodile.] and
giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts:
well, he is deadly wounded, and making a horrible noyse, the Gunner
lay denned, and durst not stirre: meanewhile the beast striving to
recover the water, tyred, and lying close on his belly there he dyed.
After the shot, the Horse-men drew neare, and finding the beast
slaine, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstruous
creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall,
which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service,
the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City
500. Sultans of gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely
offered him, and he as freely refused.
Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low playnes
of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually
in the latter end of July; and continueth to the end of August: Which
furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke
of the vulgar Ægyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius
Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine, What (sayth hee) doe
you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke. And now
because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about
[The true knowledge of the flowing of Nylus.] the flowing of Nylus,
I will both show the manner and quality or cause of its inundation,
and thus. There is a drye pond called Machash digged neare unto the
brinke of the River, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteene
Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the Ditch, whereby
they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shal
have plenty or scarcity of things.
Now betweene the River and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts
digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell,
it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the pond,
and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre, certayne of the
Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred Janizaries, and
pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time
of the Inundation, they make great Feastings, rare Solemnities, with
Dancing, Singing, toucking of kettle Drummes, sounding of Trumpets,
and other ostentations of joy.
Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so
it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar
is marked from the roote to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote,
a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise
but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following there shal be
great Dearth, Pestilence, and famine. And if it amounteth to twelve
Cubites, then the sequell yeare shal be indifferent. And if it swell
to fifteene Brasses, then the next yeare shal be copious and abundant
in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top, eighteen
Brasses, then all the Country of Ægypt, is in danger to be drowned
and destroyed.
[Many Schollers mistaken about Nylus.] Now from the body of Nylus,
there are above three thousand Channels drawne through the playne,
on which passing Ditches, are all the Bourges and Townes builded;
and through which Channels the River spreads it selfe through all the
Kingdome: Which when scoured, of filth and Wormes, and the water become
cleare, then every House openeth their Cisterne window, and receiveth
as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation:
Neyther doth ever the River flow any where above the Bankes, for if
it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.
All which Channels here or there, do make intercourse for their
streames agayne, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fooles
hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land,
then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall,
their Cornes and fruites? for the nature of violent streames, do
ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon,
leaving slime, mood, and Sand behind their breaches, and therefore
such inunding can not be called cherishings.
There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as
Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen Wormes, and
other Monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who
Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three
thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Æquinoctiall Line,
from montes Lunæ, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Æthyopia
interior, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Ægypt, and
in a place of the exterior Æthiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The fall
and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neere to it.
[The reason of the flowing of Nylus.] The infallible reason, why
Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance,
is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer,
and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these
Cynthian mountaynes, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving
in streames, to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the
matter delabiates: For benefit of which River, the great Turke is
inforced, to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sultans of
gold to Prester Jehan, least he impede and withdraw the course of
Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Ægypt to desolation: The ground
and policy whereof, begunne upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon
the Æthiopians by Amurath, which hee was constrayned to give over,
under this pact, and for Nylus sake.
The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Actos, to wit,
Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights:
It was called too, Ægyptus, of a King so named, that communicated
the same to it, and to the Countrey.
Festus, sayth it was called Melos, and Plutarch tearmed it Mela:
Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is, running, or coulant in
gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor or Sihor, to wit, Trouble,
because of the great noyse it bringeth with it to Ægypt; and the same
Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Ægyptians wont to name
it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Ægypt,
name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long course.
[The Ile of Delta.] This River maketh the Ile of Delta in Ægypt;
so likewise in Æthiopia, that Ile of Meroa so renowned. The ancient
Authors, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo,
Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others
nine; and Pliny eleaven. And some moderne Authors affirme it hath
onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleadge, dividing it selfe two
leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two whereof,
are these of Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the
opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes,
and as many branches drawne from its mayne body.
The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweete, above all others in the World,
and that proceedeth of the extreame vigour of the Sunne, beating
continually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer, and Simple;
as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.
And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great, when all
others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So
alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so
increase, when even here, and at home, the river of Rhone, hath the
like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Towne of Geneve,
and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike;
from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.
Ægypt was first inhabited by Misraim, the Sonne of Chus from whom the
Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misroiæ. It was also
named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Osiriana
from Osiris; and now Ægyptus from Ægyptus the surname of Rameses,
once a King of great puissance. [The confines of Egypt.] It bordereth
with Æthiopia, and the Confines of Nubia: on the South. On the North
with the sea Mediterrene: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta,
and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great
Lake Bouchiarah, and a daungerous Wildernesse confining therewith,
supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts,
which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the
Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea,
through which the people of Israel passed.
This Country was governed by Kings first, and longest of all
other Nations: From Osiris (not reckoning his Regall Ancestors)
in whose time Abraham went downe to Ægypt, he and his Successours,
were all called Pharaoes; of whom Amasis, is onely worthy mention,
who instituted such politicke Lawes to the auncient Egyptians, that
he deserveth to be Catalogized, as founder or this Kingdome.
This Race continued till Cambises the second Persian Monarch, made
Ægypt a member of his Empire: and so remayned till Darius Nothus
the sixt Persian King: from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of
themselves. But in the eighteene yeare of Nectanebos the seventh King
thereafter, Ægypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Emperour of Persia.
In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King hereof, after
his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the sonne of Lagi,
from whom the Kings of Ægypt were for a long time called Ptolomeis:
of whom Queene Cleopatra was the last, after whose selfe murther,
it was annexed for many yeares to the Romane Empire, and next to the
Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted,
and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar the third Caliph
of Babylon.
Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of Jerusalem; Noradin
a Turkish King of Damascus sent Saracon a valiant Warriour to aide
them, who made him [The alterations of Egypt.] selfe absolute King
of the whole Countrey; whose ofspring succeeded (of whom Saladine
was one, the glorious conquerour of the East) till Melechsala, who
was slaine by his owne souldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of
the Suldans, as the Jannizaries are to the great Turke, who lately,
Anno 1622. have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire,
as the Mamaluks did in the Ægyptian.
They made of themselves Sultans, whereby the Mamaluke race continued
from the yeare 1250. till the yeare 1517. wherein Tonembius, together
with his predecessour Campson Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the
first; by whom Ægypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire,
and so continueth as yet.
The length of this Kingdome, is foure hundred and fifty English miles,
and two hundred broad: the principal seat whereof is the great Caire,
being distant from Jerusalem sixteene dayes journey, or Caravans
journalls, amounting to 240. of our miles. Some hold that the space
of earth, that lyeth betweene the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta
was called the lower Ægypt; now called Delta under the figure of a
Greeke letter triangular.
The head of this great Delta, where Nylus divideth it selfe was
called Heptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta it selfe was called by the
Romanes Augustamia: Ægypt besides the aforesayd names, it had divers
Epithites of divers Authors; for Appollodorus tearmed it the Religion
of Melampodes, because of the fertility of it: And Plutarch gave it
the name Chimia, because of the holy ceremonies of the Ægyptians in
worshipping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignely
remarked, deriving it from Cham, the sonne of Noah, so that some
hold the opinion, that the Ægyptians had their originall from Misraim
(for so was Ægypt called) the sonne of Chus, that proceeded from Cham
Noahs sonne: The circuit of Delta or the lower Ægypt is thought to
be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.
[The revenews of Egypt.] In the time of the Ptolomeis the revenewes
of this Kingdome were 12000. talents; so also in the time of the
Mamaluks; but now through tyranical government, and discontinuance
of trafficke through the red sea, the Turke receiveth no more than
three millions yearely; one of the which is free to him selfe, the
other two are distributed to support the charge of his Vicegerent
Bassaw, and presidiary souldiers, being 12000. Jannizaries, besides
their thousands of Timariots, which keepe Ægypt from the incursions
and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayro I stayed twelve dayes, and having bid
farewell to Monsieur Beauclair the Consul who courteously intertained
me, the other foure French Pilgrimes and I imbarked at Boulacque in
a boate: And as we went downe the River, the chiefe Townes of note
we saw were these, Salmona, Pharsone, Fova, & Abdan. I remember our
boate was double hooked with forked pikes of iron round about the
sides, for feare of the Crocodiles, who usually leape up on boates,
and will carry the passenger away headlong in the streame: And yet
these beasts themselves are devoured by a water-Rat, of whom they
taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running
into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it down, where
the Rat for disdaine commeth forth at the broad side of his belly
leaving the Crocodile dead. In these parts there is a stone called
Aquiline, which hath the vertue to deliver a woman from her paine
in child-birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to
behold the rare beauty of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes, Ellock;
whose feathers being beautified with the diversity of rarest colours,
yeeld a farre off to the beholder a delectable shew: having also this
propriety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they loose the
beauty of their feathers by reason of the feare they conceive when
they see a man. Upon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over
land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria, being 50. miles distant.
[The Towne of Alexandria.] Alexandria is the second Port in all Turky:
It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the
great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines
therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with
two Castles, which defend both it selfe and also Porto vecchio: The
fields about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious ayre,
especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers
fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying
here, I was advised by a Ragusan Consul, to keepe my stomacke hot, to
abstaine from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate
diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe,
so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a small
diet, and was often too small against my will, by the meanes whereof
(praised be God) I fell never sicke till my returne to France.
This Citty is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices
that were brought through the red Sea, to Ægypt, and so over Land to
Alexandria & its Sea-port: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all
Christendome; but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke,
by the Portugals, English, and Flemings, which maketh both Venice,
and Alexandria fare the worse, for want of their former Trafficke,
and commerce in these Southerne parts: whence Venice grew the mother
nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoyled
thereof, and decayed by our Westerne Adventures, in a longer course
for these Indian soyles.
This Citty was a place of great Merchandize, and in the Nycen Councell
was ordayned to be one of [The foure Patriarchall Seas.] the foure
Patriarchall seas; the other three are Antiochia, Jerusalem, and
Constantinople. Heere in Alexandria was that famous Library which
Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000. volumes: It was he that
also caused the 72. Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against
Alexandria, is the little Ile Pharos, in the which for the commodity
of Saylers the aforesaid King builded a watch-towre of white Marble;
being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the
seven wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramides, the
Tombe Mausolaea, which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused build in
honour of her Husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Wals of Babylon,
the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Statue of Jupiter Olympicus at Elis
in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent worke-master in
Gold and Ivory, being in height 60. Cubites.
Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for passage, great was
the heate the French men and I indured, in so much that in the day
time, we did nought but in a low roome, besprinckle the water upon our
selves, and all the night lye on the top or platforme of the house, to
have the ayre; where at last bidding good-night to our Greekish Host,
we imbarked in a Slavonian shippe, belonging to Ragusa; and so set
our faces North for Christendome; in which ship I was kindly used,
and Christian-like intertayned both for victuals and passage. The
Windes somewhat at the beginning favouring us, wee weighed Anckers,
and set forward to Sea: leaving the Coast of Cyrene Westward from us,
which lyeth betweene Ægypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdome
of Tunnis.
[The fabulous Countrey of Syrene.] The chiefe Cities therein are
Cyrene, Arsinoa, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenean Country taketh
the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politana. The Soyle
is barren of Waters and Fruites, the people rude and theftuous:
yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits of Calimachus the Poet;
Aristippus the Phylosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Symon
of Cyrene, whom the Jewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse.
In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Ægypt, stood
the Oracle of Jupiter Hammon, in the great Wildernesse confining with
Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed, he saw for foure dayes space,
neither man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arrived, the
flattering Priests, professed him to be the sonne of Jupiter: which
afterward (being hurt with an Arrow) hee found false, saying; Omnes
me vocant filium Jovis, sed hæc sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West
from Cyrene all the Kingdomes of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algier, Fesse,
and a part of Morocco even to Gibilterre, or fretum Herculeum, under
a generall name now called Barbary; and hardly can be distinguished
by the barbarous Moores.
In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome, there dyed
seaventeene of our Mariners, and all our foure French Pilgrimes,
two of them being gray hayred, and 60. yeares of age, which bred no
small griefe, and feare to us all, thinking that they had dyed of the
plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came.
The French men had onely left unspent among them all, threescore and
nine Chickens of gold, which the Master of the Ship medled with,
and because they were Papists, and they and I alwayes adverse to
other, I could not clayme it. [Foure French Pilgrimes dead.] Their
dead Corpes were cast over Board, in a boundlesse Grave to feed
the fishes, and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life;
So likewise in our passage, we were five sundry times assayled by
the Cursares and Pyrats of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevailing,
for we were well provided with good Munition, and skilfull, Martiall,
and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.
Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes, did carry twenty eight
peeces of Ordonance, two of them brazen; and foure score strong
and strenuous Saylers, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The
greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runagats, then
any violent defence we made: for they durst never set on us, unlesse
they had beene three together; and yet we little regarded them, in
respect of our long reaching Ordonance, and expert Gunners: In these
Circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, wee would see
[Flying fish.] flockes of flying Fishes, scudding upon the curling
waves, so long as their finnes be wet, which grow from their backe,
as feathred wings doe from Fowles: But when they grow drye, they are
forced to fall downe and wet them agayne, and then flye along. Their
flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and
in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin, is in persuing
them, who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them;
whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels, but greater headed
and shouldered. Meanewhile in these our Courses were we seven weekes
crossed with Northerly Windes, ever Tackling and boarding from the
Affricke Coast, to the Carminian shoare, in all which time wee saw no
Land, except the boysterous billowes of glassie Neptune: And as Ovid
sayde, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et
aer, viz.
Nothing but Waves I view, where ships do floate
And dangers lye: huge Whales do tumbling play;
Above my head, Heavens star-imbroadred coate,
Whose vault containes, two eyes for night and day,
Far from the Maine, or any Marine Coast,
Twixt Borean blasts, and billowes we are tost.
If Ovid, in that strait Ionean deepe
Was tost so hard; much more am I on Seas
Of larger bounds; where staffe and Compasse Keepe
Their strict observance; yet in this unease
Of tackling Boards, we so the way make short,
That still our course, drawes neerer to the Port.
Betweene the streame, and silver spangled skye,
We rolling climbe, then hurling fall beneath;
Our way is Serpent like, in Meeds which lye,
That bowes the Grasse, but never makes no path:
But fitter like yong maides, and youths together,
Run here and there, alwhere, and none Know whether.
Our way we Know, and yet unknowne to other,
And whiles misknowne to us, before we dive;
The hand, and compasse, that governe the Ruther
Doe often erre: although the Pilots strive
With Cart and plot; their reckonings sometimes fall,
Too narrow, short, too high, too wide, too small.
To dascon this, remarke, when they set land,
Some this, some that, doe gesse, this Hill, that Cape;
For many houres, their skill in suspence stand
Tearming, this fore, that headland, points the Mape:
Which when mistooke, this forgd excuse goes cleare,
O such! and such a land, it first did peere.
In all which strife, stress'd Saylers have the paine
By drudging, pulling, hayling, standing to it
In cold and raine, both dry and wet, they straine
Themselves to toile, none else but they must doe it:
We passengers behold, with belching throats
Onely their taske atchievd in quivering boates.
Then since but ayre and water I perceive,
One's hot and moyst, the other moyst and cold;
It's earth that's cold and dry, I longing crave
And fire that's dry and hot, I wishing would;
Then thundring Æole, from thy seven rigged Towres,
Soone waft us o're, forth from these glassy Bowres.
My wish is come, I see each bulging sayle
For pride begins to swell, betweene two sheetes;
She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tayle,
And layes her side, close where the weather beats;
Both prone and puppe, do answere so the Helme,
The Steirsman sings, no griefe his joy can whelm.
By night our watch we set, by day our sight,
And thirle our Sailes, if Pirats but appeare;
We rest resolv'd, it's force, makes Cowards fight,
Though none more dare, then they that have most feare,
It's courage makes us rash, and wisdome cold,
Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lyon bold.
Now we looke out for Land, now we see Malt!
That little famous Ile, though sterrile soile;
Where we'le some Bay, or Creeke seeke to assault
Whence Ancorage, and safety ships recoile:
Now, now, let Anchor fall we're in the Road
Savely arriv'd, by providence of God.
This done, as time avouc'hd, I kindly bad
My Consorts all adew, then came a shoare,
Where I such plenty of great favours had,
That scarse the like, I ever found before.
These white cross'd Knights, with their eight pointed crosses,
Imbrac'd my sight, with it, my toiles, and tosses:
So ends my Verse, and so I'le straight disclose
The Ile, the Folkes, their Manners, in plaine Prose.
The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh
Water that was spent; and therefore constrayned to beare in to this
Ile: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land heere, to see
the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in
the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our [A joyfull arrival
in Malta.] Anchors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the
shoare, I bad farwell to all the Company, and in a singular respect
to my generous Captayne, who would have nothing for my victuales
and transportation from Ægypt; except a few relicts of Jerusalem:
The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a
vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.
This City is divided in two, the old and new Malta, from which the
Ile taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly
fortified with invincible walles, and two impregnable Castles
St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; St. Michael being distant from both:
Here the great Master or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard
made much of me for Jerusalems sake; so did also a number of these
gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my
great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of
mine, being a souldier there, named William Douglas, who afterward
for his long and good service at sea was solemnely Knighted, and
made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene
since as plausibly regarded by the Maltezes, as Monsieur Creichton
his worth, in learning and excellent memory, rests admired in Italy,
but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the
house of Mantua; for whose losse, and accidentall death, they still
heavily bemone: acknowledging that the race of that Princely stock,
by Gods judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.
[The Ile of Malta.] Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts
28. 1. 2. where the Viper leaped on Paules hand; I saw also the Creeke
wherein he was shipwracked: This Iland may properly be termed the
Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds,
for their Cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sycilia: but
it yeeldeth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges,
Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of
Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina; from thence to the
Rhodes, & now exposed to this rocky Ile. They are pertinacious foes
to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making
war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned
also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights
of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome; it is a most
honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part
of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being
intangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to
adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they are
mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath
been when their auncestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having
had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.
This Ile was given in possession to these Knights of St. John,
by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly
expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And
afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all-utterly
to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado, and assayled Malta,
Anno 1565. when Valetta was great [An invincible victory.] maister, who
so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated,
and forced to returne.
This Iland is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof
being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as
the clymat might afford: It containeth besides the City, forty seven
Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants
whereof, are of the Affrican complexion, tanny, and Sun-burnt; and
their language semblable to the Barbarian speech, without any great
difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arabick: And not unlike
therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from
the auncient; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the auncient, then the
Italian is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are extreamely bent,
in all their actions, either to good or evill wanting fortitude of
minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours
of their passions, but as the headstrong-tide, so their dispositions
runne, in the superfluous excesse of affections.
They follow the Romane Church, though ignorant of the way, and
their woemen be lovely faire, going head-covered with blacke vayles,
and much inclined to [The nature of the Maltezes.] licentiousnesse;
their beauties being burrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it
is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time
or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their
owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the
soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and
honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the
beauty and lovely proportion of the body, should be preferred before
the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy:
since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire
and rich wardrope. In this Towne of Malta, there are many Turkish and
Moorish slaves, very rudely treat, yet not answerable to that cruelty
the slavish Christianes indure upon their Gallies in Barbary or Turky:
The discription of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my
second Travells; and after twelve daies staying here, I imbarked in a
Frigat with other passengers, and arrived at Cicly in the South-east
corner of Sicilia, being three score miles distant.
From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa, I rancounterd
by the way, in a clifty Creeke close by the sea side, a Moorish
Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who
had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away
labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them,
I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me,
with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my
long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they
could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I
came: where, when freed, I hastned to the next Watch-tower, marine set,
and there told the Centinell, how a [A Moorish Brigantine.] Moorish
Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how
hardly I escaped their hands: whereupon he making a fire on the top
of the Tower, and from him all the Watch-towers along, gave presently
warning to the contrey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages
came downe on horse and foote, and well armed, and demanding me
seriously of the trueth, I brought them with all possible celerity
to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them,
wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the
Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last
they were all seazed upon, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines,
and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence
they were carried to Syracusa, I went also along with them, where, by
the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me
for discovering them: from Syracusa (being condemned to the galleyes)
upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36. in number.
They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for
this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes,
and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the
friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge
you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a
Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was
once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies,
and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place:
Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites,
and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.
From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at
Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now
I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for
Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience,
deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the
Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.
[An happy arrivall.] From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat
loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred
miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the
Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where
being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my
safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of
Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome,
being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights
lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and
crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the
Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia,
Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities
rest revolv'd in these following verses.
Illustrat Sænas, patriæ facundia Lingua,
Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives;
Libera luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus:
Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem:
Genua habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas:
Excellit studiis, facunda Bononia cunctis,
Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque Butirum,
Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis;
Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra Placentia caris:
Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,
Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum,
Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.
Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke
might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through
Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden
of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola
[The Ligurian Alpes.] di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes:
I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for
a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length
from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which
stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.
After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey
in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria,
over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy;
making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence
it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving
these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate
on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana,
to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in
a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither
from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for
a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well,
in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women,
and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.
[A happy escape from murder.] After I had sup'd and going to bed,
in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where,
when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning
me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for
helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second
their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being
mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe,
and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are
distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if
you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger,
newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and
after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my
flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for
the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe
is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers
that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands
rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should,
were a lamentable thing to do.
This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched
my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my
forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I
had no money, and therefore confirmed my life, which for the former
respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up
my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times
to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready,
they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I
privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well
they sup'd, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to
the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.
All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host
confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of
their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving
him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned [A
guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.] that my Host was suspected
to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards
I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed,
and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth
a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode
free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a
long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring
the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the
most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the
Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places)
entering the Towne wherein I was borne.
Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for
my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to
Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved
from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight,
kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with
Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris:
whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine,
I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding
and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon
and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei
mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited
Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel:
and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there
ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence
shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King
James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present
Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought
from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some
distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.
THE END OF THE FIRST BOOKE, OF MY FIRST TRAVAILES.
THE EIGHT PART, &c.
Contayning the second Booke of my second Travailes.
Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo
projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque
terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria
est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur,
si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.
Let not surmisers thinke, ambition led
My second toyles, more flash flowne praise to wed;
Nay; there was reason, and the cause is Knowne
For Courtly crosses, seldome stay unshowne:
Well, I am sped; through Belgia then I trace;
And footing Rhyne, to Geneve kept my pace,
Thence cross'd I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds,
The hils Appenine, the Ætrurian rounds:
And nighting Rome, Parthenope I past,
Even to Rhegio, of Townes Calabriaes last:
Whence Sicily I view'd, and Ætna Mount;
And Malta too, as I before was wont:
Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood,
And Scipio shed streames of Numidian blood.
Hence Tremizen I trac'd, the Barbars shoare
To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlanticke glore;
The Berdoans Country, and the Lybian sands,
The Garolines parch'd bounds, the Sabunck lands;
And diverse soiles, of Savage Heathnick bounds,
Whose names and stiles, this Affricke story sounds.
Last in the Lybian lists, I'me forc'd to stay,
Whence I return'd, for Tunneis the next way;
And resting there, till Æoles seaven rig'd Towres,
Prest Tritons backe; (crost Neptunes Paramours)
And wish'd me saile; O then with speedy flight
I boord the Ship, and bad the Moores good-night.
True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the
certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and
Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall,
in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first:
Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second:
Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned
the right Canon.
As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that
some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners
of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions
domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions
Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth
under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique,
is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the
Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of
Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious,
as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the
knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most
necessary, to wit, the science of the world.
[The necessary use and honour of Travels.] This is it above all things
that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses
and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of
them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science
is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the
most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a
lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious
consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above
all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and
remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof;
and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and
other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable
being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth;
neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions,
for as judgement is seldome compatible with youth, but reserved to old
age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation,
by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of
deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by
opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time
for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe,
so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching
my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second
perambulation, it is best reserved [The Authors Apology.] to my owne
knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for
their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt
after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy,
and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves,
then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I
leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines
are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my
owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them:
And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come
to the matter it selfe.
Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I
beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the
Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke,
and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.
To view the ruines of thy wasted walles,
Loe! I am come, bewayling thy disgrace,
Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so enstalles
To be the mirrour for a Martiall face:
I, sure its thou, whose bloody bathing bounds,
Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.
What Hostile force, besieg'd thee poore Ostend?
With all Engine, that ever Warre devised:
What Martiall troupes, did valiantly defend
Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurpris'd
By cruell assaults, and desperate defence,
Thine undeserved name, wonne honour thence.
Some deepe interr'd, within thy bosome lye,
Some rot, some rent, some torne in peeces small:
Some warlike maim'd, some lame, some halting crye:
Some blowne through Clouds, some brought to deadly thral,
Whose dire defects, renew'd with ghostly mones,
May match the Thebane, or the Trojan groanes:
Base fisher towne, that fang'd thy nets before,
And drencht into the deepe thy food to win:
Art thou become a Tragicke stage, and more
Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin
To show the world, more then the world would crave,
How all thine intrench'd ground, became one grave.
Thy digged ditches, turn'd a gulfe of blood,
Thy wals defeat, were rear'd with fatall bones:
Thine houses equall with the streetes they stood;
Thy limits come, a Sepulcher of groanes:
Whence Cannons ror'd, from fiery cracking smoake
Twixt two extreames thy desolation broake.
Thou God of War, whose thundring sounds do feare
This circled space, plac'd here below the rounds,
Thou in oblivion hast Sepulchrized here,
Earths dearest life, for now what else redounds
But sighes and sobs, when treason, sword, and fire,
Have throwne al down, when al thought to aspire.
Forth from thy marches, and frontiers about
In sanguine hew, thou dy'd the fragrant fields;
The camped trenches of thy foes without
Were turn'd to blood, for valour never yeelds
So bred ambition, honour, courage, hate,
Long three yeares siege, to overthrow thy state.
At last from threatning terrour of despaire,
Thine hembd defendants, with divided walles
Were forcd to rander, then came mourning care
Of mutuall foes, for friends untimely falles:
Thus lost, and got, by wrong, and lawlesse right
My judgement thinkes thee scarcely worth the sight:
But there's the question, when my Muse hath done,
Whether the victor, or the vanquisht wonne.
To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feete
in two moneths space; the description whereof is so amply set downe by
moderne Authors, that it requireth no more: onely this, for policies,
industries, strong Townes, and fortifications, it is the mirrour of
vertue, and the garden of Mars; yea, and the light of all Europe, that
he who hath exactly trade it, may say [Weisle taken by Spineola.] he
hath seene the mappe of the whole Universe: And now ascending to Cleve,
I came just to Grave Maurice Campe at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken
Weisle; betweene which Armies for five weekes I had free intercourse,
being kindly respected by both the Generalls: for Spineola set me at
his owne table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of
Newenberg, and Don Pietro di Toledo being there both for the time: So
with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the
Marques of Brandeburg, certaine Nobles, and forraine Ambassadours. All
which time, O how it grieved me to see the tyranny of the Spaniards
dayly executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom
they domineered like Divells: for these afflicted Cittizens, being
heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleagured
with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies;
and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walles, though
their mindes were without, and intirely with the assailants.
Bidding adew to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman
David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his Sonne, whom I conducted to
Italy: scarcely had we out-stripd Rhyneberg (where Collonell Edmond
was slaine) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and
pocket-moneys, with five souldiers French and Vallones; and that within
a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us,
they being with Carts serving Spineolaes Campe.
[The fabulous miracles of Culloine.] Whence the next day approaching
Culloine, and bills of change answered, wee visited the falsly supposed
Tombes of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists
say, lye interred there. O filthy and base absurdnesse for their
holy Mother Church to confirme hellish and erronious leyes; for these
Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North:
Or if they wil have them to die there and so buried, surely this is
even such another damnable errour, surpassing tradition, as their
wandring Jew, the Shoomaker of Jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they
have wrot ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the
11000. Virgins heads, Martyres, indeed we saw the Church-walles all
indented about with bare sculles, but whose heads they were, the Lord
knoweth; from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chappell, within a
Vineyard, called the Chappell of miracles; the originall whereof was
thus. Upon a festivall day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to
the Towne, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the
wals) did eate his belly full of the grapes; and thereafter hearing a
Masse, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the
same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, [A forged
and false miracle.] hee fell a vomiting, and casting up with what hee
had eaten the Holy Sacrament, it straight turned in the likenesse of
a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow,
run backe and told his Confessour, what was done, and his offence who
had eaten grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessour
told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates comming to the place,
and beholding as it were an Angell, grew astonished.
In end they wrapped up their little dead god, in a Cambricke vayle,
and there buried it; building this Chappel above the place: where
ever since there is a world of leying miracles done: Loe these are
the novelties of Culloine.
Thence ascending the Rhyne, and coasting Heidleberg, I saluted the
Princesse Palatine, with certayne rare Relickes of the Holy Land. And
leaving Mounsieur Bruce there till my returne, I went for Noorenberg to
discover the sixe Germanes death, whom I had buried in the Desarts, and
Grand-Cayre of Ægypt, for the two Barons were subject to the Marquesse
of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters,
and Kinsmen, and delated to them their deathes, I was presently
carryed to their Prince the Marquesse, to whom I related the whole
Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of
the other, were instantly invested in their Lands; and I likewise,
by them all great regarded and rewarded. And after ten dayes feasting,
reviewing Heidleberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia,
or Switzerland.
This Countrey is divided in thirteene Cantons, sixe whereof are
Protestants, and sixe Papists; the odde Canton being likewise halfe
and halfe. The most puissant whereof is Bierne, whose Territory lying
along the lake reacheth within a League of Geneve. The people, and
their service to most Christian Princes, are well knowne, being Manly,
Martiall and trusty faithfull.
Here in the Canton of Bierne neere to Urbs, wee went and saw a
young Woman, who then had neyther eate, [A woman fasting fourteene
yeares.] nor drunke, nor yet excremented for thirteene yeares,
being truely qualified by her Parents, Friends, Physitians, and
other Visitors. She was alwayes Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that
her Anatomised body carryed nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet
was she alwayes mindefull of God. And the yeare after this time,
her body returned agayne to the naturall vigour, in appetite and
all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, dyed in the
fifth yeare thereafter.
The day following, we entred Geneve, where sighting the Towne, the
chiefe Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the foure Captaines
were all familiarly acquainted with me, with whom in diverse places,
I daily feasted and discoursed. The Ministers one night propining me
with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of them
selves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest sixe Leagues
off, a Curate, of a Village in Madame du longeviles Countrey, who had
gotten in his owne Parish, three Widdowes, and their three severall
Daughters with childe, and all about one time: and for this his
Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to
go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went
hither, and upon the sequell day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallowes,
as high as a stripad: The three mothers and their three Daughters
were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowfull hearts, and
eye-gushing teares for their sinne and shame, were lamentable to
behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for
dividing their legges, and opening their wretched Wombes. Lo there
is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry,
and yet may mis carry themselves in all abhominations, especially in
Sodomy, which is their continuall pleasure and practise. Returning
to Geneve, and acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession,
for they are great Intelligencers, I wrot this literal Distich:
Glance, Glorious Geneve, Gospell-Guiding Gem;
Great God Governe Good Geneves Ghostly Game.
[The Lake of Geneva, and the River Rhone.] The Lake of Geneve is
sixteene Leagues in length, and two broad, at the South-west end
whereof standeth the Towne, through whose middle runneth the River
of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very
houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nylus, for when all
other Rivers decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. Two reasons
proceeding from the excessive Snow that lye upon the Sangalian and
Grisonean Alpes, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that
the force and face of the Sunne dissolve it. And so ingorging the
Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body, that it is the swiftest River in
Europe. The Towne on both sides the flood, is strongly fortified with
rampierd walles, and counter-banding Bulwarkes; the Ditch without
and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for
preventing of suddain Scallets. Many assaults have this handfull of
people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recitall
whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that
Light shining Syon, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of
the Almighty, I step over the Alpes to Torine.
[The first beginning of the Duke of Savoy.] Here is the residence of
the Dukes of Savoy, whose beginning sprung first from the house of
Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a neere Cousen to the Emperour
Otton the third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperour gratified
him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piemont; where he and his
Successors continued foure hundred yeares under the title of Earles:
untill the Emperour Sigismond, at the Counsell of Constance, did Create
Amee, the eight Earle of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to
this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been
only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the
Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept heere, for Gallants,
Gentry, and Knights.
At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with
his owne brother in Law Philip the third, about the Marquesade of
Montferrat, and Dutchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to
the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the
Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piemont is
a marvailous fruitfull and playne Countrey, and wonderfull populous,
like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that
a Venetian damaunding a Piemont Cavalier, what Piemont was? Replyed,
it was a Towne of three hundred miles in circuite, meaning of the
Habitations and populosity of the Soyle.
The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that
of Parma is Fernese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie,
that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francesco Maria, and the
last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Dutchy of Ferrara, being dissolved,
is converted to the Popes patrimony.
Leaving Piemont, and coasting the sassinous shoare of Genoaes revieroe,
I ported Ligorne, the great Dukes Sea-haven; where I left Mr. Bruce
with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier; and inclining alone
to Florence by the [A comfortable crosse.] way at Pestoia, I found
a comfortable crosse; for I sighting the market place after supper,
and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket, the head of it was espied
by a Badgello, Captaine of the Sergeants, who straight gripped me,
bore me to prison, and clapd me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my
moneyes and Poneyard; and posting that night to Florence on the
morrow shew the Justice there a Stilleto of his owne: upon which
I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare, else to pay a
hundred Duckats: He stayed there three dayes, in this time was I
discovered to the governour of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being
brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty
of the Badgello: nor that I never wore a Stilleto, but under pretext
of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of gold:
Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine, and
that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it
belonged, he grew immatulent and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse,
shewing him the trueth of the businesse: Whereupon the Badgello was
sent backe to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved;
and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it:
well, my gold and my Poneyard is restored againe, the Badgello banished
the territorie of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children, and
I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highnesse Chamber
or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crownes of gold, being modified
by the Duke him selfe; whereat I extolled the knave, that wrought his
own wracke in seeking my overthrow, and brought me such a noble reward.
Thanking God for this joyfull crosse and approaching Florence, I
found one John Browne there, whose company I imbraced to Sicilia:
Whence having privatly past Rome, and publickly Naples, we footed
along the marine by [Cousenza in Calabria.] Salerno, and courting
Cousenza, the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth,
we reposed there certaine dayes.
The Towne is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscurenesse
and solitarinesse of the Countrey, the better sort of their Gentry
living at Naples: Having left the lower, and entred the higher
Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allavria; and the next morning
traversing close and covert mountaines, twelve miles along, in the
midst of our passage we were beset with foure Bandits and foure Gunnes:
To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, shewing them
mine adventures and former travells, they unbend their fire-locks,
and reading my patent of Jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did
me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives
and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they tooke us
both in to a great thicket of wood, where their timberd Cabine stood,
and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare their
sequestrate cottage could afford.
And now because there were forty more Bandits their companions among
these mountaines, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along
with us, and as neare Castellucia as he durst; making me sweare that
I should not shew the Baron of that place of their privat residence,
neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave
him many hearty and deserved thanks.
[The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.] These Bandits or men-slayers,
will come into any free Towne in the night when they please, and
recovering either a Church or Hospitall, they stay there as they
list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affaires;
being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any
criminall fact, neither may the power of Justice reach to them,
so long as they keepe themselves within doores.
This is an auncient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so
is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived
at Castellucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, and wondred that
I had safely past the mountaines, for said he when I go for Naples,
I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in traine.
The next day in passing Montecilione, the fairest and fruitfullest
bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior; I saw a distectured house;
which the people told me had beene the Schoole, where Dionisius the
third and last Tyrant of Sicilia (after his flight from the Kingdome
and Crowne) taught Children privatly nine yeares, ere hee was knowne
to be a King, but a poore Schoolemaster.
This higher Calabria though mountainous, aboundeth in delicious
Wines, fine pastorage, and exceeding good Silke: The Peasants alwayes
commonly here are addicted to eate Onions, whence rose this Proverbe,
I Calabrese magniano di Cepoli, the Calabrians feed upon Onions. Their
women weare uncomely habits, being hooded from their browes to their
backes behind, with sixe or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuffe;
whose upper gownes come no further downe than their middle thighes:
And their breaches and stockings being all one, and their legges
halfe booted, they looke like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons.
I remember in passing this higher Countrey, I found divers Cassales
or Terraes, (small Villages) of certaine [Greeke Albaneses fled to
Calabria.] Greekes called Albaneses, whose predecessors had fled from
Albania, when the Turke seased upon Epyre, and this their Province;
and was priviledged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first:
And though exiled from their naturall Patrimonies, (Omne solum forti
patria est) yet are they exceeding kind to strangers, measuring largely
their owne infranchized fortune, with the voluntary exposement of
many unnecessary Viadants: Declining thence to the marine Bourge of
Molino, being by land which we footed distant from Naples 400. miles;
we crossed the narrow Faro, or Sycilian Euripus, to Messina being
two miles broad. Where, when landed, and meeting with a young Scots
Edenburgensen William Wylie, come from Palermo, and bound for Venice,
I fastned John Browne with him to accompany his returne; and on the
following day imbarked them both backe for Calabria.
And now having followed the Italian saying Si meglior a star solo come
mala accompaniato; It is better for a man to be alone, then in ill
company; I traversed the Kingdome to Trapundie seeking transportation
for Affricke, but could get none: And returning thence overthwart
the Iland, I call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza,
belonging to a young Baron, and being bound the way of Castello Francko
eight miles distant and appertaining to another young Noble youth,
I rose and marched by the breach of day; where it was my lucke halfe
way from [Two young Barons killed at combat.] either Towne, to finde
both these beardlesse Barons, lying dead, and new killed in the fields,
and their horses standing tyed to a bush beside them; whereat being
greatly moved, I approached them, and perceiving the bodies to be
richly cled with silken Stuffes facily conjectured what they might be:
My host having told me the former night, that these two Barones were at
great discord, about the love of a young Noble woman; and so it was,
for they had fought the combat for her sake, and for their owne pride
lay slaine here. For as fire is to Gun powder, so is ambition to the
heart of man, which if it be but touched with selfe-love, mounteth
aloft, and never bendeth downeward, till it be turned into ashes.
And here it proved for that Ladies sake, that troppo amore turnd to
Presto dolore: Upon which sight, to speake the trueth, I searched
both their pockets, and found their two silken purses full loaden
with Spanish Pistolls, whereat my heart sprung for joy, and taking
five rings off their foure hands, I hid them and the two purses in
the ground, halfe a mile beyond this place: And returning againe,
leapt to one of their horses, and came galloping backe to Saramutza;
where calling up my host, I told him the accident; who when he saw
the horse gave a shout for sorrow, and running to the Castle told
the Lady the Barons Mother: where in a moment, shee, her children,
and the whole Towne runne all with me to the place, some cled, some
naked, some on foote, and some on horse: where, when come grievous
was it to behold their woefull and sad lamentations. I thus seeing
them all madde and distracted of their wits with sorrow, left them
without good-night: And comming to my Treasure, made speedy way to
Castello Franco, where bearing them the like newes, brought them all
to the like distraction and flight of feet.
Well, in the mutability of time there is aye some fortune falleth
by accident, whether lawfull or not, I will not question, it was now
mine that was last theirs, and to save the thing that was not lost, I
travailed that day thirty miles further to Terra nova. Whence the next
morning beeing earely imbarked for Malta, and there safely Landed;
[A London ship called the Matthew.] I met with a ship of London
called the Mathew, bound for Constantinople lying in the Roade where
indeede with the Company I made merry a shoare for three dayes, and
especially with one George Clarke their Burser, who striving to plant
in my braines a Maltezan Vineyard, had almost perished his owne life.
Upon the fourth day, they hoysing sayle, and I staying a shoare,
it was my good lucke within eight dayes to find a French ship of
Tolon come from the Levante, and bound for Tunneis by the way in
going home. With whom desirously consorted, within three dayes we
touched at our intended Port. And now to reckon the gold that I
found in the aforesayd purses, it amounted to three hundred and odde
double Pistols; and their Rings being set with Dyamonds, were valued
to a hundred Chickens of Malta, eight shillings the peece, which I
dispatched for lesser: But the gold was my best second, which like
Homers Iliades under Alexanders pillow, was my continuall vade Mecum.
Tunneis is the Capitall seate of its owne Territory, and of all
the East and lower Barbary, containing ten thousand fire-houses:
And it is the place where old Carthage stood, that was builded by
the Tyrians and Phenicians of the Holy Land, some three score twelve
yeares before Rome, and had twenty miles in circuit: Which City in
these times, was the soveraigne Queene of Affrick, and the onely envy,
and predominant malice of the Romanes, being more then Romes rivall
mate, in greatnesse, glory, and dominion: Neverthelesse in end, it
was taken, sackt, and burnt by Scipio the Affrican Romane, some sixe
hundred and two yeares after Rome was first founded, and her ruines
and large Territories without, made subject to the ambition of Rome.
[The divers plantations of Carthage.] After which detriment, desolate
Carthage was rebuilded by Cæsar, and a Collony of Italians transported
there, flourished for a time, till it was destroyed and overrunne
by the Gothes and Vandales: And lastly subdued by the Sarazens and
Moores, it was by them transmitted to the Turkish power, who now
is Maister of it, being no way answerable to the sixe part of the
greatnes it had before. This Towne is situate in the bottome of a
Creeke, where the Sea for a mile having cut the bosome of the Land,
maketh a large and safe resting place for ships and galleyes. Which
Haven and Towne is secured from Sea invasions, by the great and strong
Fortresse of Galetto, builded on a high Promontore, that imbraceth the
Sea, and commandeth the mouth of the Bay; wherein a Turkish Bassaw,
and a strong Garrison of Souldiers remaine: the Fort it selfe being
well provided with armes, men, Artillery and munition.
The Kingdome of Tunneis comprehended once the whole Countrey that
the auncients called properly Affrick or little Affrick, being the
old Numidia, and was divided then in these five Provinces, Bugia,
Constantino, that of Tunneis, Tripoly, and Ezzebba. In the Towne
of Bugia, lying halfe way twixt Tunneis and Algeir, and 40. leagues
from either being now called Arradetz, there was auncient beautifull
Temples, Colledges, magnifick buildings, Hospitals, and Convents after
their fashion: but the Towne being taken, and razed Anno 1508. by
Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or
ornament, save a few rusticke Inhabitants.
[The marine provinces twixt Tunneis and Algier.] The province of
Constantine, lyeth twixt Tunneis and Bugia; the Towne Constantine,
now Abirouh, being Capitall, and was surnamed Cortes and Julia:
It is begirded with Rockes, and auncient walles contayning eight
hundred fire-houses, wherein are the relicts of an Arke triumphant,
formerly built by the Romanes; and in this Province sixteene leagues
within land, was the Towne of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine
was Bishop.
The Territory of Tunneis, lyeth betweene the borders of Abirouh
Westward, and the limits of Tripoly Eastward, being of length foure
score miles: and on this Sea-coast lyeth the Towne Biserta, adorned
with a commodious Haven, and sixe Gallies, the most scelerate of
condition, and celerious in flying or following of all the cursares in
Turky: Tripoly in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by
the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more
Southward; which sometimes was beautified with Merchants of Genoa,
Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of theeves, and Sea-Pirats,
and so are all the marine Townes, twixt Ægypt and Morocco.
The last Province of the kingdom of Numidia, is Ezzebba lying East from
Tripoly, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Ægipt: The chiefest
part whereof is Messaicke being twenty foure Leagues from Tripoly,
contayning many Villages, and Townes on the playnes and Mountaynes,
abounding in Silkes, Cornes, and diverse Fruites.
All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not
advancing South-ward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in
Tunneis I met with our [An English Pyrat Captaine Waird.] English
Captayne, generall Waird, once a great Pyrat, and Commaunder at Sea;
who in despight of his denied acceptance in England, had turned
Turke, and built there a faire Palace, beautified with rich Marble
and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domesticke, some fifteene
circumcised English Runagates, whose lives and Countenances were
both alike, even as desperate as disdainfull. Yet old Waird their
maister was placable, and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct
to Algiere; yea, and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there,
I dyned and supped with him, but lay aboord in the French shippe.
At last having obtayned my pasport from the Bassaw there, and surety
taken for my life and moneyes, I imbraced the Land way with this
Conduct, consisting of forty Moores, and a hundred Camels loaden with
Silkes, Dimmeteis, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesayd
Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly
in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country, abounding in
Wines, Rye, Barly, Wheate, and all kinde of fruites, with innumerable
villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had
beene none at all; otherwise that they had beene Christians, and so
more civill.
The greatest enemy this journey designed mee, was the Sunne, whose
exceeding heate was intollerable to indure, being in September
Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine, and Victuals wee had
abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, wee entred in the
[Tremizen in Barbary.] Countrey of Tremizen, formerly Mauritanea
Cæsarea: This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana,
contayning the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or
Desartuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Muluia and Amphlaga,
the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren, opposite
to Sardinia. The Countrey is in length from the East to the West, some
twenty five of their courses, and of our miles about three hundred;
and of breadth betweene the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty
English miles.
This copious Kingdome in all things, hath beene oft and ever
molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling
downe from the Mountaines, do runne their carriere at random upon
the ground-toyled Moores, to satisfie their needy and greedy
desires. Tremizen or Telensim, had of old foure Provinces, but
now onely two [The Towne of Tremizen decayed with Warres.] its
owne Territory, and that of Algier: Whose capitall Towne being
too cognominated Tremizen, contayned once eighteene thousand fire
houses. But in regard of Josephus King or Fez, who besieged it seaven
yeares, over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and
likewise the Turkes investion of it, and finally because of the long
warres, twixt the Seriff or King there, and the Turke; it is become
a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of
that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier.
At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived
at Algier, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed
in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Taverne,
and a ground planked Hospitality. In all this way of twelve score
miles, I payed no Tribute, neyther had I any eminent perrill, the
Country being peaceable, though the people uncivill.
[The theevish Towne of Algier.] This Towne of Algier, was formerly
under subjection to the Kingdome of Tremizen, but because of
insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of
Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine, from
whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515. being now under the Turke, and
is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth
triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with
earth-back'd walles, Bulwarkes, and Artillery, but the semi-squared
land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised;
and three miles in circuite, contayning some thirty thousand persons.
There is a Turkish Bashaw here, and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand
Janizaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pyrats who ever preying
upon Christian Commercers, by their continuall spoyles and prises, have
made the divelish Towne wonderfull rich; and become the inveterate
enemy of Christendome; being now a Kingdome of it selfe, and in
length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Guargola,
some sixe score miles. It hath a long reaching mould in the Sea, that
maketh a safe harbor for their ships agaynst Northerly windes, which
on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part
of the Towne were fled to the mountaynes to shun the parching heate
that beateth violently on the Plaines, and Sea-shore; so doe all the
maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer, for the moneths July,
August, and September: which then being left halfe naked of defence, it
were the onely time for Christianes to invade or surprise their Townes.
I found here abundance of slaves, most of them Spaniards, whom they
dayly constraine within Towne to beare all manner of burdens here and
there, and without Towne to drudge in the fields, amongst their Vines
and Cornes, and other toyling labours, abusing them still with buffets
and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth: Neither durst I leave
my lodging, unlesse I had three or foure Christian slaves to guide
me, and guard me too from scelerate vulgars: who beare no respect
to any stranger nor free Franck. [A naturall sublime policy.] Here I
remarked a wonderfull policy in the Turkish state, concerning these
thiftuous and rapinous Townes of Barbary; who as they are ordained
ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard, yet under that colour they
licentiat them to make havock and seaze upon all other Christiane
ships, goods, and persons as they please, the French Nation excepted:
And so they doe notwithstanding of our several Ambassadours lying
at Constantinople, who rather stay there as Mungrells than absolute
Ambassadours: for why should Christian Princes meditate for peace and
commerce with the Turke, when theirs, with his subjects the Barbarian
Moores have no safety; they being obedient to his lawes, and over-ruled
by Bassawes, as well as these are of Asia and Easterne Europe: from
which I gather, as from all other like examples, that there is a more
sublime over-mastering policy, subtility, and provident foresight,
in meere naturall men as Turkes be, then in our best Grandeurs, for
all their Sciences, & schoole studies can either perceive or perform
farre less prosecute. To which avowed dangers if any small ship,
ruled by rash fellowes, should adventure within the straites, as too
many English doe, beeing unable and unprovided for defence; and so
are taken & Captivated, and afterward redeemed by Contributions over
the Land: I justly affirme it, they deserve rather to be punished,
and remayne there in punishment, then any reliefe or redemption to
be wrought for them, who will nakedly hazard themselves in knowne
perrils, without Ordonance, munition, and a burdenable ship.
But reverting to my purpose, the marine Provinces which lye betweene
Ægypt and Sewty, over agaynst [The Barbarian Provinces twixt Egypt
and Gibelterre.] Gibelterre being the Straits, are these; Cyrene,
Barca Marmorica, Ezzeba, the Trypolian Jurisdiction, the Kingdomes
of Tunneis, Abirouh, Arradetz, Tremizen, Algier, and a part of Fez;
extending to two thousand and three hundred Maritine miles: All which,
by ignorant Sea-men, and ruvide Moores is tearmed Barbary, who can not
distinguish parts nor provinces, but even as the Orientall Turkes doe,
that denominate all Asia minor, under the name Carmania, and know no
further of their ancient nor particular titles.
Now as concerning their Customes, it is the fashion of all these
Barbarian Moores, in marrying of their wives, that after the
Bridegroome and the Bride are inrolled by their Totsecks or Priests in
the Mosque before the Parents of each party, and the Bride presently
brought home to the house of her Husband, accompanied with al their
Friends, Musicke, and Revelling: He immediatly withdraweth her to
a private Chamber, having onely one old woman standing by them in a
corner of the Roome: where hee lying with the Bride, and shee being
found a Mayde, by a certayne cloath layd under her privy place, which
being by the old Hagge drawne out, and found sprinkled with spots
of blood shee presenteth it first to him, as a token of virginity;
and then forthwith runneth through the house, among all the friends
of the new married couple, crying with a loud voyce, and carrying the
bloody napkin in her hand, the Virgine-bride is broken up; whereat
they all rejoyce, giving rewards and good cheare to the Cryer: [The
tryall of Moorish Brides.] But if the bride be not found a Mayd,
then he returneth her backe unto her Parents which they accompt as
an immortall shame, and the nuptiall feast, and all the assistants
thereunto, are suddenly dismissed: But if a Virgine, the banquet
continueth all the first day, with great cheare, dancings, revellings,
with Musicall Instruments of divers sorts.
The second night is onely the feast of women for both parties; and
the third banquet is made on the seventh day after the nuptiall, the
provision of which the father of the Bride sendeth to the house of
his new sonne in law: where after this banquet, and the seventh day,
in the next morning the Bridegroome goeth then abroad from his house
(which hee doth not till the aforesayd time) unto the market place,
where he buyeth a number of fish to carry with him to his dwelling,
as a signe of good lucke, it being an auncient custome through the
most part of all the Notherne Affrick.
The men and women at such meetings dance a part, each of them having
their own Musicke and orders of merriment.
They have also a custome that when Infants beginne to breed teeth,
their Parents will make a solemne feast to all the Children of the
Towne, with divers ceremonies; which custome they reserve yet, in
divers parts of Italy.
The women through all Barbary, weare abundance of Bracelets on their
armes, and Rings in their eares, but not through the nose and lips
as the Ægyptians doe; and turne also the nayles of their hands and
feete to red, accounting it a base thing to see a white naile: The
men here for the most part, are the best Archers, and Horse-men that
are in Affrick, and take great pleasure in breeding of their Barbes:
So are they both active and couragious, and very desperate in all
their attempts, being all of the Mahometanicall Religion, though
more ignorant thereof than the Turkes: some whereof are subject to
the Turke, some to the Emperour of Morocco, and some to their owne
barbarous Princes.
And now it was my fortune here in Algier, after 12. [Monsieur
Chatteline a French Lapidator.] dayes abode, to meete with a French
Lapidator, Monsieur Chatteline borne in Aise du Provance, who intending
to visit Fez, joyned company with me, and we with certaine Merchants
of Algier that were going hither: being in all 30. passengers, with
two Jannizaries and a Dragoman.
Whence advancing our way, some on Mules, and some on foote, with Asses
carrying our baggage and provision; we left the marine Townes of Saly
and Tituana, far to the West on our right hand, and facing the in-land
wee marched for three dayes through a fruitfull and populous soyle:
And although the peoples barbarous and disdainefull countenances were
awfull, yet we two went still free of tributs, as not being a thing
with them accustomary, to execute exaction on Francks as the Turkes and
Moores do in Asia, neither understood they what wee were, being cled
with company, and after their fashion: save onely that nature had set
a fairer stamp on my face, than theirs, which oft I wished had beene
as blacke as their uglines. In this misculat journeying of paine &
pleasure we found every where strong Wines, abundance of excellent
bread, and the best, and greatest Hens bred on the earth, with plenty
of Figges, Fruits, Olives, and delicious oyle, yea, and innumerable
Villages, the houses whereof are all builded with mudde, and platformed
on their tops; and so are they in Asia, and all Affrick over.
Upon the fourth day having past the Plaines, we entered in a hilly
Countrey, yet pastorable; where I beheld here and there clouds of
Tents, filled with maritine people, that were fled hither from the
Sea coast for the fresh and cooling ayre.
And upon these pleasant and umbragious heights, I saw the fields
overcled with flocks of Sheepe and Goats: which Sheepe are wondrous
great, having from their rumpes and hips, broad and thicke tayles
growing, and hanging to the ground, some whereof when sold, will weigh
16. 18. or 20. pounds weight, and upwards. Here among the mountaines,
our company knowing well the Countrey, tooke a great advantage of
the way, and on the seventh day in the morning, [Mine arrival at
Fez.] wee arrived at the great Towne of Fez: where the French man
and I were conducted by some of our company to a great Moorish Inne
or Taverne: & there received, we were as kindly & respectively used,
as ever I was in any part of the Turks Dominions, being now out of
them, & in the Empire of Morocco.
This City of Fez is situate upon the bodies and twice double devalling
faces of two hills, like to Grenada in Andelosia in Spaine; the
intervale, or low valley betweene both (through which the torride River
of Marraheba runneth Southward) being the Center and chiefest place,
is the most beautifull and populous part of the City; the situation
of which, and of the whole, is just set under the Tropick of Cancer.
Over which River, and in this bottome, there are three score and
seaven Bridges of stone and Timber, each of them being a passage for
open streetes on both sides. The intervayle consisteth of two miles
in length, and halfe a mile broad; wherein, besides five Chereaffs
or Market places, there are great Palaces, magnificke Mosquees,
[Great Colledges and Hospitalls.] Colledges, Hospitals, and a hundred
Palatiat Tavernes, the worst whereof, may lodge a Monarchicke trayne:
Most part of all which buildings, are three and foure stories high,
adorned with large and open Windowes, long Galleries, spacious
Chambers, and flat tectures or square platformes.
The streetes being covered above, twixt these plaine-set Fabrickes,
have large Lights cut through the tectur'd tops every where; in whose
lower shoppes or Roomes are infinite Merchandize, and Ware of all
sorts to bee sold.
The people of both kindes are cloathed in long breeches and bare
Ancles, with red or yellow shooes shod with Iron on the Heeles, and
on the Toes with white Horne; and weare on their bodies long Robes
of Linning or Dimmety, and silken Wast-coates of diverse Colours:
The behaviour of the Vulgars being far more civill toward Strangers
then at Constantinople; or else where in all Turkey.
The Women here go unmasked abroad, wearing on their heads, broad,
and round Capes, made of Straw or small Reedes, to shade their faces
from the Sunne; and damnable Libidinous, beeing prepared both wayes
to satisfie the lust of their Luxurious Villaines; neyther are they
so strictly kept as the Turkish Women, marching where they please.
There are some twelve thousand allowed Brothell-houses in this
Towne, the Courtezans being neatly kept, and weekely well looked
to by Physitians; but worst of all, in the Summer time, they openly
Lycentiat three thousand common Stewes of Sodomiticall boyes: Nay I
have seene at mid-day, in the very Market places, the Moores buggering
these filthy Carrions, and without shame or punishment go freely away.
There are severall Seates of Justice heere (though none to vindicate
beastlinesse) occupied by Cadeis and Sanzackes, which twice a
Weeke heare all differences and complaints: their chiefe Seriff,
or Vicegerent, being sent from Morocco, is returned hither agayne
every third yeare.
[The beauty and greatnes of Fez.] The two Hills on both sides the
planur'd Citty, East, and West, are over-cled with streetes and Houses
of two stories high, beeing beautified also with delicate Gardens,
and on their extreame devalling parts, with numbers of Mosquees and
Watch-towers: On which heights, and round about the Towne, there
stand some three hundred Wind-mils; most part whereof pertayne to
the Mosques, and the two magnifick Colledges erected for education
of Children, in the Mahometanicall Law.
One of which Accademies, cost the King Habahennor in building of it,
foure hundred and three score thousand Duckets. Jacob sonne to Abdulach
the first King of the Families of Meennons, divided Fez in three parts,
and with three severall Walles, though now invironed with onely one,
and that broken downe in sundry parts.
The chiefest Mosque in it, is called Mammo-Currarad, signifying the
glory of Mahomet, being an Italian mile in Compasse, and beautified
with seventeene high ground Steeples, besides Turrets and Towers:
having thirty foure entring Doores; beeing supported within, and
by the [The modell of the great City of Fez.] length, with forty
eight pillars, and some twenty three Ranges of pillars in breadth,
besides many Iles, Quires, and circulary Rotundoes: Every Pillar
having a Lampe of Oyle burning thereat; where there, and through the
whole Mosque, there are every night nine hundred Lamps lighted; and
to maintaine them, and a hundred Totsecks and preaching Talsumans,
the rent of it extendeth to two hundred Duccats a day: Neverthelesse
there are in the City besides it, more then foure hundred and
threescore [The magnifick Mosque of Fez.] Mosquees; fifty whereof
are well benefited and superbiously decored within and without, with
glorious and extraordinary workmanship, whose rooffes within are all
Mosaick worke, and curiously indented with Gold, and the walles and
pillars being of grey Marble, interlarded with white Alabaster, and
so is the chiefe Mosque too in which Monsieur Chatteline and I had
three sundry recourses accompanied with our Moorish hoste, who from
their Priests had procured that licence for us. This City aboundeth
in all manner of provision fit for man or beast, & is the goodliest
place of all North Affrick, contayning a hundred and twenty thousand
fire-houses, and in them a million of soules: Truely this is a world
for a City, and may rather second Grand Caire, than subjoyne it selfe
to Constantinople, being farre superior in greatnesse with Aleppo:
For these are the foure greatest Cities, that ever I saw in the world,
either at home or abroad.
The Cittizens here are very modest and zealous at their divine
services, but great dauncers and revellers on their solemne festivall
dayes, wherein they have Bull-beating, Maskerats, singing of rimes,
and processions of Priests. The Moores in times past of Fez and
Morocco, had divers excellent personages, well learned, and very
civill; for amongst the Kings Mahometan one can not praise too much
the Kings Almansor, Maunon, and Hucceph, being most excellent men in
their superstition.
In whose times flourished the most famous medicines, and Philosophers
that were among the Pagans, as A Vicenne, Rasis, Albumazar, Averroes,
&c. with other great numbers maintained by the Kings of Morocco, that
then were Masters of all Barbary and Spaine: As in Spaine may be seene
yet, (though now fallen in decay) a great number of their Colledges,
shewing they were great lovers of their Religion and Doctrine, and
are so to this day, save onely in their drinking of Wine forbidden
by their Alcoran. They were great devisers too of gallant sportings,
exercises, turnaments, and Bull-beating, which Spayne retaineth to
this time; yea, and the Romanes did learne, and follow many of them.
Here in Fez there be a great number of Poets, that make Songs on divers
subjects, especially of Love, and Lovers, whom they openly name in
their rimes, without [Poets among Barbarians in great request.] rebuke
or shame: All which Poets once every yeare, agane Mahomets birth-day,
make rimes to his praise; meanewhile in the after noone of that
festivall day, the whole Poets assembling in the market place, there is
a Dasked chayre prepared for them, whereon they mount one after another
to recite their verses in audience of all the people; and who by them
is judged to be best, is esteemed all that yeare above the rest,
having this Epithite the Prince of Poets, and is by the Vicegerent
and Towne rewarded; But in the time of the Maennon Kings, the Prince
on that day in his owne Pallace did conveine the whole Cittizens, in
whose presence he made a solemne feast to all the best Poets; causing
every one of them to recite the praise of Mahomet before his face,
standing on a high scaffold: And to him that was thought to excell
the rest, the King gave him 100. Sultans of gold, an horse, a woman
slave, & the long Robe that was about him for the time: And to each
one of the rest he caused give fifty Sultans, so that every one should
have some recompense for their paines: Indeed a worthy observance;
and would to God it were now the custome of our Europian Princes to
doe the like, and especially of this Ile, then would bravest wits, and
quickest braines, studdy and strive to show the exquisit ingeniosity
of their best styles, and pregnant invention, which now is ecclipsed,
and smotherd downe, because now a dayes, there is neither regard nor
reward for such excellent Pen-men. Fez was aunciently named Sylda,
whose Kingdome hath Atlas to the South, the River of Burdraga to the
East, and Tremizen: Morocco to the West: And the confynes of Guargula,
and a part of the Sea to the North: Having spent in Fez 17. dayes,
in all which time, we daily conversed with some Christian Abasines,
[Heragens or Ethiopian Negroes.] Heragenes, or Æthiopian Nigroes, some
whereof were Merchands, and some religious; and Monsieur Chattelines
businesse not effected, seeking Diamonds and precious stones to buy;
was seriously advised by them, to goe for Arracon, a great Towne
on the Frontiers of the Northerne Æthiopia: where he would finde
abundance of such at an easie rate, giving him a perfit direction for
his passage hither being 30. daies journey: he concluded with their
counsell his resolution, and perswading me to the same intention,
I yeeld, being over-mastred with the greedy desire of more sights.
Meanewhile for our conduct, we hire a Dragoman Moore that spoke
Italiens to be our Interpreter, and with him a Tent, and two Moorish
drudges to guide, guard, & serve us by the way of fifty eight Sultans
for gold, eighteene pounds foure shillings English: having sixe
of their Kinsmen fast bound to a Sanzak or Justice, for our lives,
liberties, and moneyes.
Hereupon having provided our selves, with all necessary things, and
a Mule to carry our Victuals, Water and Baggage, we discharged our
conscionable Hostage, at twenty Aspers a day the man, being thirty
foure shillings to each of us; and were brought on our way, by the
aforesayd Christian Heragenes some foure Leagues. Where having left
them with dutifull thankes, wee set forward in our journey, and for
seaven dayes together wee were not violently molested by any thing,
save intollerable heate, finding tented people and scattered Villages
all the way.
The eight day, the way being fastidious and Rockey, [Chatteline the
French Lapidator taken sicke.] and Chatteline on foot, he succumb'd,
and could not subsist, not beeing used to pedestriall travayle; and
for our better speed and his reliefe, wee mounted him aloft on the
top of our baggage. At last arriving at Ahetzo (where we reposed)
being the furthest and South-most Towne of the Kingdome of Fez,
composed of a thousand fire-houses, well fortified with Walles, and
a Garrison of Moores in it, subject to the Emperour of Morocco: the
French-man long or day, fell sicke of a burning Feaver: Whereuppon wee
stayed five dayes expecting his health, which growing worse and worse,
and hee mindfull to returne, which I would not: I left him in safe
custody, and one of our Drudges to attend him till Fez. And bearing
the charges of the other two, according to the former condition:
I set forward for my purpose, which ere long turned to sad Repentance.
Leaving Ahetzo behind us, and entring the Countrey of the Agaroes,
we found the best inhabitants halfe cled, the Vulgars naked, the
Countrey voyd of Villages, Rivers, or Cultivage: but the soyle rich
in Bestiall, abounding in Sheep, Goates, Camels, Dromidores, and
passing good horses: Having an Emeere of their owne, being subject
to none, but to his owne passions, and them to the disposition
of his scelerate nature; yet hee, and they had a bastard show of
Mahometanicall Religion: Their Bestiall are watered with sources,
and the pastorable fields, with the nightly Serene, and themselves
with the Watrish concavity of the earth. In our sixe dayes toyle,
traversing this Countrey, we had many troubles and snarlings from
these Savages, who sometimes over-laboured us with Bastinadoes, and
were still inquirous what I was, and whether I went; yea, and enough
for the Dragoman to save my life and liberty.
Having past the perverstnesse of this calamity, upon the seaventh
day, wee rancountred with another soyle, [The Tribe of the Hagans
or Jamnites.] and worser tribe of the Hagans or Jamnites, most part
whereof were white Moores, a people more uglye then the Nigroes, yet
some of the better sort had their members covered, but of condition
farre more wicked then the former.
They are ruled by a Seriff, whose Guard is composed of women, and
young Balars, pages; seeming rather to live without Religion, then
acknowledging any kinde of Deity. Here my Dragoman, doubting of his
passage, and the difficilnesse of the Countrey, which arose from his
ignorantnesse thereof, was inforced to hyre a Hagan guide, to bring
us to the province of Abadud, bordering with Æthiopia. But by your
leave, our guide having led us for five dayes together South-eastward,
and almost contrary to our purpose: in the sixt night of our Repose,
he stole away, eyther for feare or falshood, mistaking our journey,
or deceiving us for despight, the halfe of his Wages being payed
him before. Well, the Villaine gone, and my Dragoman the next day
continuing our faces, in the same Arte, wee were long or night involved
in a dis-inhabited Country, being Desartuous and dangerous for Wilde
beasts, and full of Mountaynes. Pitching our Tent neare to a Rocke,
we burnt all that night shrubs of Tara, to affright the Beasts of
all kinds, and so did we every night of that wofull wandring, which
flaming light their nature cannot abide. Day come, and our comfort
yet fresh, we sought further in, thinking to finde people and Tents
to relieve us with Victuales, and informe us of the Countrey, but we
found none, neither seven daies thereafter. The matter growing hard,
and our victuals and water done, we were forced to relye upon Tobacco,
and to drinke our owne wayning pisse, for the time aforesayd.
The Soyle we daily traced, was covered with hard and soft Sands,
and them full of Serpents, being interlarded with Rockey heights,
faced with Caves and Dens: the very habitacle of Wilde beasts, whose
hollow cryes, as we heard in the night, so we too often sighted
their bodies in the [The Wilde Beasts of the Libian Desarts.] day,
especially Jackals, Beares, and Boares, and sometimes Cymbers, Tygers,
and Leopards, agaynst whom in the day time if they approached us,
we eyther shot off a Harquebuse, or else flashed some powder in the
Ayre; the smell whereof, no ravenous beast can abide.
This vast Wildernesse is a part of the Berdoans Countrey, one of
the foure tribes of the olde Lybians, the Sabuncks, the Carmines,
and the Southerne Garolines, being the other three. And now to helpe
the expression of my grievous distresse and miseries, my Muse must
lament the rest.
Ah! sightlesse desarts! fil'd with barren Sands!
And parched plaines; where huge and hilly lands
Have stone-fac'd scurrile bounds: O monstrous feare!
What destiny, drove my cross'd Fortune here?
By day I'me scoarch'd with heate, by night the grounds
Are cled with beasts; whose rage sends horrid sounds
Of dreadfull death: whence we to shunne their ire,
Are forc'd to fright them, with bright Tara fire:
For if it were not, that they scarr'd at Light,
No man could walke, or rest, safe in the night.
Then next and nigh, the crawling Serpents lurke
Still under foote, some stung-swolne smart to worke;
Which moove the Sands like Seas, in seeking shade,
Where 'mongst their linking roles, I'me forc'd to wade:
Whose neckes like legs are round, their bodies strong,
With blacke-spred backes, their length full two yards long:
Yet whilst I cut, and crush their warbling wombe,
I point their death, their skin, I make their tombe.
But worst I'me hungerbit, and starving slaine
With pinching want, a sore-sunke gnawing paine:
O helplesse torture! second'd with great drouth
And fiery thirst, that scabbe my lips and mouth:
Where for fine lyquor, as my heart would wish,
Stress'd wandring I, am forc'd to drinke my pisse:
So turnes my food to smoake, the smoake to ashes
Which twice a night, we three do spend in flashes:
Last casts my face the skin, my skin the colour,
And spewing forth fled joyes, I drinke in dolour.
Thus with the Torrid Zone, am I opprest,
And lock'd twixt Tropickes two, which me invest.
Where for reliefe, I pierc'd the Heavens with cryes,
And cut the Clouds, to grieve the azure skies
With sighs and grones; yet carefull to regard
My curious drifts, had got their just reward.
But to shorten my Discourse, of barren Wildernesses, supposed to
be a part of the Lybian Desarts, my Dragoman upon the fourth day
of our seaven being there, falling in despaire, and wondring to see
me indure such heate, such hunger, and such toyle, did threaten mee
with death, to make me seeke backe for our nearest refuge: Whereupon
holding our course North-east, my compasse-Dyall being our guide,
we rancountred earely on the eight day, with nine hundred Savages,
naked Lybian Sabunks: five hundred whereof, were women armed with
Bowes and Arrowes; who with their complices, the former night had
put to the sword, three hundred Berdoanes, their neighbour tribe:
carrying away above sixe thousand Sheepe and Goats besides other
bestiall: from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince, we had
first liberty of life, and then reliefe of food; for he came up in the
Reare, with a hundred Horse-men charged with halfe Pikes, headed at
[The prince of the Sabuncks apparrell.] both ends with sharpe Steele:
The person of their Prince was onely clothed from his breasts downe to
his middle thigh with a Crimson vayle of Silke, hanging on his naked
shoulders with coloured Ribans, and on his head a party coloured Shash
set like a Garland: Both his knees were bare, so were his ancles,
the calves of his legges being girded with Crimson Silke, and on his
feet yellow shooes; his beard was like his face, burnt with the Sun,
and his age like to my owne, of 33. yeares, his Religion is damnable,
so is his life, for hee and all the foure tribes of Lybia worship onely
for their God, Garlick, having Altars, Priests, and superstitious
rites annexed to it: Thinking Garlicke, being strong of it selfe,
and the most part of their food, to have a soveraigne vertue in a
herball Deity. All his Courtiers were starke naked saving his Page,
who was even covered like to the King his Master.
And now having dismissed his Army for the way, and falling in a
houres parley with us at his departure, he propyned me with his Bowe,
& a Quiver of Arrowes, which afterward, I presented to his Majesty,
then Prince.
There is a merry secret heere concerning the women, which often
I recited to King James of Blessed memory, showing him also three
Certificates of this my Desartuous wandring: one of which was confirmed
by English Waird at Tunneis upon the Dragomans Report; though now they
with all my other Patents are lost, in the Inquisition of Malaga. This
former savage Prince sent a Guide with us for foure dayes journey,
the condition of his mans Wages being made by himselfe, and franckly
advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest Recourse. Which
being forcibly considered, I was constrayned to renew my bargaine
agayne with the Dragoman, at the rate of forty five Sultans of gold,
to bring me safely hither.
This Sabunck Guide, to whom I gave five Sultans, thirty five shillings,
brought us through the most Habitable vallies, and best cled passages
of the Countrey with Tents: where every day once we found Water, Bread,
Garlicke and Onions, and sometimes Hennes at twenty Aspers the peece,
two shillings; which we would Rost, or scorch dry (if trueth may have
credite) at the very face of the Sunne, and so eate them. Upon the
fift day, our Guide leaving us in the after-noone, well setled among
foure hundred Tents of Numidian Moores, or bastard Arabians, pitched
in a pleasant Valley, betweene two sources of Water, wee stayed still
there Reposing our selves, and Refreshing our bodies with Victuals,
some nine dayes.
[Moorish Smiths forging horse-shooes out of cold Iron without fire,
but the heat of the Sun.] Heere among these Tents, I saw Smiths Worke
out of cold Iron, Horse-shooes, and Nayles, which is onely molified
by the vigorous heate and Raies of the Sunne, and the hard hammering
of hands upon the Anvile: So have I seene it also in Asia. I could
bee more particular here, but Time, Paper, Printing, and charges will
not suffer me. And now from hence, renewing our Guides from place to
place, and discending from Savage Moores to Civill Moores, we arrived
(though with great difficulty and danger) safely at Tunneis.
[The Beglerbegship of Barbary.] And to conclude this Eight Part,
there are three Beglerbergships in the higher and lower Barbary:
The first is at Trypolis, which was taken in by Sinan Bassa from
the Knights of Malta 1551. and commaundeth under him eight thousand
Tymariots, besides sixe thousand Jannizaries. The second is at Tunneis,
the Beglerbeg whereof, being of great Authority, commaundeth under
him twelve Sanzackes, and thirty five thousand Tymariots. The third
is, that of Algier, whose Bassa hath under him fourteene Sanzacks,
and the commaundment of forty thousand Tymariots. These are all the
Beglerbegs, the Great Turke retayneth in Affricke, except the great
Vizier-Bassa of Ægipt: although in Asia major and Minor, he commandeth
in severall Provinces and Kingdomes, thirty Bassaes or Beglerbegs.
THE NINTH PART.
Tunneis beene sightlesse left, I sought the Ile
Of little Malta: famous for the stile
Of honour'd Knight-hood, drawne from great Saint John,
Whose Order and the Manner, I'le expone:
Whence Coasting Sicilie, a tripled view
I tooke of Ætna: Time discussing you
A miracle of Mettall; for its Kind
Is nurs'd by Raine, and suffled up with wind:
And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulfe,
Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe stream'd Dolf;
Head-strong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes Queene,
And Kinde Moravia, set before mine eyne.
To Hungary I came, and Vallechie,
The Transilvanian Soile, and Moldavie.
Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans face,
I Kiss'd Sigismonds hands, at Warsow place:
Whence Swethland I, and Denmarke last bewray,
Noruegia too, in my sought London way;
Where bin arriv'd, safe on the brow of Thames,
To Court I came, and homag'd Royall James.
And now my Wish, and my arrivall, being both desirous for a while
setled in Tunneis, I dispatched my Dragoman, and the other Barbarian
hireling, with a greater consideration, then my two former conditions
allowed me: Yet being urged to it by Captaine Wairds decernitour, I
freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and I staying heere,
Captayne Waird sent twice one of his servants with me to see two
sundry Ovens drawne, beeing [The hatching of Chicken without their
mothers.] full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their
mothers, but in the Fornace, being thus. The Oven is first spred over
with warme Camels dung, and upon it the Egges, closing the Oven.
Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of heate, venting
through a passage beneath the dung, just answerable to the naturall
warmnesse of the Hens belly; upon which moderation, within twenty
dayes they come to naturall perfection. The Oven producing at one time,
three or foure hundred living Chickens, and where defection is, every
sharer beareth a part of the losse; for the Hatcher or Curator, is
onely Recompensed according to the living numbers be delivered. Surely
this is an usuall thing, almost through all Affricke, which maketh
that the Hennes with them are so innumerable every where.
And now it was my good fortune, after five Weekes attendance for
Transportation, being about the 14. of February 1616. to meete here
with a Holland ship called the Marmaide of Amsterdam, beeing come
from Tituana, and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the
[Captaine Dansers imployment.] way. In this time of their staying,
came one Captayne Danser a Fleming, who had beene a great Pyrate and
Commaunder at Seas, and the onely inveterate enemy of the Moores;
beeing imployed by the French King in Ambassage, to relieve two and
twenty French Barkes that were there Captivated, done by the policy
of the Bashaw, to draw Danser hither; notwithstanding that hee was
then Retired, and marryed in Marseilles.
Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Roade, accompanied with two
French Gentlemen: Two of which came a shoare, and saluted the Bashaw in
Dansers behalfe: they are made welcome, and the next day the Bashaw
went franckly a boord of Danser, seconded with twelve followers:
Danser tooke the presence of the Bashaw for a great favour, and mainely
feasted him with good cheare, great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and
Roaring shots, and none more familiar then the dissembling Bashaw,
and over-joyed Danser, that had relieved the Barkes, for they were
all sent to him that morning, not wanting any thing.
After deepe cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a shoare, the day
following, and to dine with him in the Fortresse: To the which unhappy
Danser graunted, and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen,
and nearing the Castle, was met with two Turkes to receive him:
where having past the draw-bridge, & the gate shut behind him, his
company was denied entrance: where forthwith Danser being brought
before the Bassaw, was strictly accused of many ships, spoyles,
and great riches he had taken from the Moores, and the mercilesse
murther of their lives, for he never spared any: [The untimely death of
Captayne Danser a Fleming born.] Whereupon he was straight beheaded,
and his body throwne over the walles in a ditch; which done, off went
the whole Ordonance of the Fort, to have sunke Dansers two ships; but
they cutting their cables, with much adoe escaped, but for the other
Gentlemen a shoare, the Bassaw sent them very courteously and safely
aboord of the redeemed Barks, whence they hoised Sayles for Marseilles.
Loe there was a Turkish policy more sublime and crafty, than the
best Europian alive could have performed. A little while thereafter,
the afore-said Hollander being ready to goe for Sea, I bad goodnight
to Generous Waird, and his froward Runagates, where being imbarked,
with prosperous windes upon the third day, wee landed at Malta, and
there leaving my kind Flemings and their negotiation, I courted the
shoare, saluting againe my former hoste.
The fift day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish Souldier and a
Maltezen boy burnt in ashes, for the publick profession of Sodomy,
and long or night, there were above a hundred Bardassoes, whoorish
boyes that fled away to Sicilie in a Galleyot, for feare of fire
but never one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it:
The Knights that remaine here, as they are of divers howsoever,
they of the better sort, are resolute in their atchievements.
The Maltezes aunciently did adore the Goddesse Juno, whose Temple was
superbiously adorned with rich decorements, and to which for homage
and devotion, came all the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Iles;
bringing rich presents and gifts; and they were also honored with
the Temple of Hercules, the ruines of which appeare to this day.
Now as for their order of Knighthood, the oath which is made at their
receiving, in the order of St. John, or of the [The formall oath of
the Knights of Malta.] Religion of the holy Hospitall of Jerusalem,
is thus: I vow, and promise to God, to the most blessed Virgin Mary,
the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patrone St. John the Baptist,
that by the grace and helpe of Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to
the superiour, that God and this Religion have appointed; and from
henceforth that I shal live chast, forsaking Marriage, and all other
lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing that may
be mine.
After this, the Chappell clarke, a Priest of the order, receiving
him with divers ceremonies, taketh a blacke Cloak in his hand, and
shewing him the white crosse that is fixed thereon; demandeth if he
doth not beleeve that to be the signe of the Crosse, whereon Jesus
Christ was crucified for our sinnes, he confesseth it, kissing the
Crosse: After which, his receiver putteth the crosse of the Cloake
upon the heart and left side of the new made Knight, saying: Receive
this signe in the name of the trinity, the blessed Mother of God,
the Virgin Mary, and of St. John the Baptist, for the augmentation of
the Catholick faith, the defence of the Christian name and service
of the poore: Also we put this crosse on thy left side, to the end,
that thou mayst love it with all thy heart, and with thy right hand
for to defend it: And in fighting against the enemies of Jesus Christ,
thou shalst happen to flee, and leave this holy Signe behind thee,
thou shalst of good right be depraved of this holy religious order,
and of our company: This done, he knitteth the Cordon of the Cloake
about him saying; Receive the yoake of our Lord that is sweet, and
light, and thou shalst find rest for thy soule: This spoke, he kisseth
the Cordon, and so doe all the circumstanding Knights, and there are
made unto him divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Booke
of their Ordinances: They have a Priest-hood too of this same order,
being Masse-Priests that weare this badge of the white Crosse.
Now bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine aforesayd Countrey Gentleman
William Dowglas, I landed the next morning at Sicly in Sicilia,
being twenty leagues distant. And now this being the third time of
my traversing this Kingdome, (triple experience, deeper knowledge)
I begin to give you a perfit description thereof.
[The first denominations of Sicilia.] Sicilia was first named Trinacria
(whose figure is Triquetria) for that being triangular, it butteth
into the Sea with three Promontories: Capo di coro, South, Cap di
passaro West: and Cap di saro East: The length of each triangle from
point to point, being 200. miles.
Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in æquor,
Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.
An Ile with corners three, out-braves the Mayne
From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.
It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it,
and hath beene famous in all former ages:
By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Iles: By Titus
Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was also aunciently called the Grange
of the Romanes, and is never a whit decayed to this day.
The length of the Iland lyeth East and West, in circuit sixe hundred,
large fifty, and in length two hundred fourty Italian miles: [The
fertility of Sicilia.] The soyle is incredible fruitfull, excelling in
all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Ryce, Oyle, Salt,
Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Hearbs, exceeding good Silke,
exquisite mines of mettall, and the best Corall in the world is found
here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water greene and tender,
but when arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof
is sayd to be found in the red-Sea, and gulfe of Persia.
The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are [Townes set on
heights reserve good ayre.] builded on the highest hills and greatest
heights in the Countrie; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them
for strength, and a great defence in time of cursarary invasions,
of which divers bee so strait in ascending, that one man may easily
resist and beat downe five hundred. The second is, because their
dwellings being farre above the parching Plaines, these situations
are good preservatives for their health, whereon they have a sweet
and cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne salve
to prevent sicknesse.
Their Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene, twenty miles
one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house,
unlesse (being a high way) it be a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides
of the hills, whereon their Townes stand, grow all their Wines,
and on the Plaines nothing but red Wheat, which for goodnesse is
unparalelled, and the best bread and abundance of it in the world
is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in [The auncient divisions of
Sicilia.] three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing
Ætna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, of old Pelora:
The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracusa, Terra nova,
and the angle of Cap di Cora of old, of Lilibea; and the third was
the valley of Matzzara contayning Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the
angle of Cap di passero old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia was
rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the generall Deluge,
some by infinit earthquakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to
have proceeded from combustious Ætna, which is meere ridiculous.
There are divers grounds and valleyes in this Ile, that abound so
in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoyle a hundred measures for one,
and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.
[Sicilians are brave Orators.] The Sycilians for the most part are bred
Orators, which made the Apulians tearme them, men of three tongues:
Besides they are full of witty sentences, and pleasant in their
rancounters, yet among themselves, they are full of envy (meaning
their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous
in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready
to take revenge of any injury comitted: But indeed I must confesse,
more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the
night; for they appeale other to single combat, and that manfully
without fraudulent practices.
They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quicknesse
and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences, great intelligencers,
and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the
passages formerly of my Countrey so exquisitly that I was astonished
at their relations, so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The
Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great authority; insomuch
that the Viceroy can not have the free gift (as they call it) which
is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of
any matter concerning the Common-wealth, without the generall consent
of the whole Kingdome: [The great Counsell of Sicilia.] The generall
counsell whereof is composed of three branches, called by them,
the armes of the Kingdome: viz. first the Prelats, and inferiour
Clergy men, named the arme Ecclesiastick: secondly of Barons called
the arme Military: and the third, the Commissioners of Cities and
Townes, intitulated the arme Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this
Kingdome amounteth to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely:
which being disbursed ever for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons
and of Gallies, and cursary ships, the Badgelloes and servants for
the fields, the maintaining of Towers, and watches about the coasts,
the reparations of Colledges, high-wayes, Lords pensions, and other
defrayings, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome, (especially the second
time, wherein I compassed the whole Iland, and thrice traversed the
middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that selfe
Nation, to begge bread, or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude
of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee) that the
porest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in
Christendome doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and
pleasant, their language in many words is nearer the Latine, then the
Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce: somewhat talkative they
are, and effeminate, but generally wonderfull kind to strangers. In
the moneths of July and August, all the Marine Townes every yeare,
are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages and
Bourges, both on foot and horse-backe: who are compelled to lie there
at their owne charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they
feare the incursions of the Turkes; but the rest of the yeare, these
Sea-coast Townes are left to the vigilant custody of the Indwellers.
This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and Bandits, [The
Duke of Sona Viceroy of Sicilia.] untill such time that the military
Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the
first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some
pardoned, and some committed to the Gallies: So that within two yeares
of his foure yeares government, there was not a Bandit left at randon
in all Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Region, nor
one in whom Astreas worth was more honoured, in fortitude of mind, and
execution of true Justice than this Duke, before whose face, the silly
ones did shine, and the proud stiffe-necked oppressours did tremble.
And in a word, he was no suppressour of the subjects (as many now
be) to satisfie either licentious humors, or to inrich light-headed
flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the
equitie of Justice of itselfe, can offend none, neither of any will
it be offended; unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary
Judge, suffer sound judgement to perish for temporary respects; which
this noble Governour could never doe, neither suffer any inferiour
Magistrate to doe the like under him: As it well appeared by his just
proceedings against the Jesuites of Palermo, and his authority upon
them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances whereof
were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my goodwill; and yet
my patience could performe my paines with pleasure.
And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochial [An equitable
Justice for injustice sake.] Priest of that same City, who had killed
a Knights servant in a Brothell-house, the brother of a Shoomaker,
which fellow, the Viceroy caused to Pistoll the Priest in spight of
the Cardinall, and thereupon absolved him for the dead.
The Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, discharged him to say
Masse for a yeare without satisfaction for the mans life: so the Duke
inhibited the Shoomaker to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse
allowed him two shillings a day to mainetayne him for that time.
Many singular observations have I of his government, the which
to recite would prove prolixious, though worthy of note to the
intellective man; hee was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately
deceased in Spaine. It is dangerous to travell by the Marine of the
Sea-coast Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings,
least he finde a Moorish Frigot lodged all night, under colour of
a Fisher-boat, to give him a slavish breakfast: for so they steale
labouring people off the fields, carrying them away captives to
Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers, which are every
one in sight of another round about the whole Iland.
Their arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they
are soone discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the
Sea coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horse-backe:
And oftentimes they advantagiously seaze on the Moores lying in obscure
clifts and bayes. All the Christian Iles in the Mediteeranean Sea,
and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining to Barbary, are thus
chargeably guarded with watch Towres.
The chiefe remarkeable thing in this Ile from all Antiquity is the
burning Hill of Ætna, called now Monte Bello, or Gibello, signifying
a faire Mountayne, so it is, being of height toward Catagna from
the Sea side, fifteene Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The
North side toward Rindatza at the Roote beeing unpassable steepe;
yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had beene
industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the
lower parts whereof, grow exceeding good Wines, Cornes, and Olives.
[My second view of Ætna.] And now in my second Travailes, and
returne from Affricke, I not being satisfied with the former sight,
the kinde Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his
owne charges, to view the Mountayne more strictly. Ascending on the
East and passable part, with tedious toyle, and curious climbing, wee
approached neare to the second fire being twelve miles high; which
is the greatest of the three now burning in Ætna: whose vast mouth,
or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying in a straight
valley betweene a perpendicular height and the mayne Mountayne; whose
terrible flames, and cracking smoake is monstrous fearefull to behold.
Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my Guide durst adventure
(the ground meane while whereon wee stood warming our feete, and is
dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles
higher to the maine top or Cima, from which the other two fires had
their beginning. Where when come, wee found it no way answerable to
the greatnesse of the middle fire; the other two drawing from it the
substance, wherewith it hath beene aunciently furnished; yet betweene
them two upper fires, I found aboundance of Snow (beeing in July)
lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was heere in this
upmost Fornace, that Empedocles the Phylosopher cast himselfe in,
to bee reputed for a god.
----Deus immortalis haberi
Dum cupit Empedocles, ardentem fervidus Ætnam
Insiluit----
To be a god, this curious Wretch desires
And casts himselfe, in the fierce Ætnean fires.
As we discended on the North-east side, we came to the third and
lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountaynes foote,
over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphureat River,
which divideth the Towne and the Hill, it would bee in danger to be
burned. [The lowest and third fire of Ætna.] This last and least
fire, runne downe in a combustible flood, from the middle above,
Anno 1614. June 25. Where the Sulphure streames, before it congealed,
falling in a bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there seased,
and daily augmenteth more and more; having quite spoiled the Lands
of two Barons in Rindatza: But the King of Spaine, in recompence of
their miserable mishapes, did gratifie them with some of his Crowne
lands for their maintenance.
I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these Sulphure
streames, which have burst forth from the upmost tops of Ætna
Westward, above twenty miles in the playne. The reason of such ardent
disgorgements, is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphure, being
put on edge with excessive Raine, and the bituminous substance still
increasing; which by the chaps, slits, and hollow chinkes of the ground
(rent partly by the Sunne, and by the forcing flames) is blowne by the
Wind, as by a payre of Bellowes; the vault or vast bosome, of which
ugly Cell not being able to contayne such a compositure of combustible
matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, in [The combustious devalling of
Ætnaes fire.] an outragious Torrent; which precipitately devalleth,
so long as the heate remayneth: and growing cold, it congealeth in
huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall mettall, and full of small
holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smithes Forge, wherewith
the Houses of nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are builded.
This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee the shop
of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunder-bolts for Jupiter:
Whereof Virgill doeth make his Tract, called Ætna. Under this hill
the Poets faine the Gyant Enceladus to be buried, whose hote breath
fireth the Mountayne, lying on his face; and to conclude of Ætna,
the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.
[Palermo.] The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo, the Seate of
the Viceroy, situate in the North-west part over agaynst Sardinia:
It is a spacious City, and well Watered with delicate Fountaynes,
having goodly buildings, and large streetes, whereof Strado reale is
principall, beeing a mile long. In which I have seene in an evening
march along for Recreation above 60. Coaches; a paire of Mulets, being
tyed to every Coach: The Gallies of Sicilia, which are ten, lye here.
The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in
Calabria, being impregnable, and graced with a famous haven: having
three invincible Castles, the chiefe whereof, is Saint Salvator by
the Sea side; there be divers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals,
that serve for offensive and defensive Forts, which is the cause
(in derision of the Turkes) they never shut their Gates.
[The famous City of Syracusa.] The third is Syracusa, standing on the
Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Ætna, and halfe way twixt Messina
and Malta, a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Metropolitane Seate:
It is famous for the Arathusean springs, and Archimedes that most
ingenious Mathematician: He was the first Author of the Spheere,
of which instruments he made one of that bignesse, and Arte, that
one standing within, might easily perceive, the severall motions,
of every Cælestiall Orbe: And when the Romanes besiedged Siracusa,
he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Shippes lying
in the Road: At last he was slayne by a common Souldier in his studdy,
at the sacke of the Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Roman
Generall; when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground,
how to prevent the assaults of the Romanes.
[Trapundy.] The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over agaynst Biserta
in Barbary, which yeeldeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported
to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made onely in some certayne
Artificiall Salt pooles, by the vigorous beating of the scorching
Sunne, which monthly they empty and fill. The Marine here excelleth
in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the Towne at work, and
when refined, is dispersed over al Christendom.
This City is in great request amongst the Papists because of the
miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Ilands Protector, and sole Governour
of these narrow Seas, for Shippes, Gallies, and Slaves: which indeede
if an image cut out in white Marble were so powerfull, it might be
credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they superstitiously
thereunto annexe a rable of absurd lies.
The fift is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Ætna, that was so
vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt is Matzara South-west, over
against the Barbarian Promontore of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza,
Terra nova, Emma, whence Pluto is sayd to have stolne Proserpina,
Malzara, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agrigentum,
where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen
Bull, which he made for the destruction of others.
[The Sicilian Tyrants.] The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia were
in times past so famous, that they grew unto this Proverbe, Invidia
Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger
Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionisius worst
of all, that when the people powred out continuall execrations on
the last, wishing his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life:
This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his father, and he,
each succeeding worser and worser, and least (said she) he dying,
the divell should come in his place, (for a worser never lived)
I wish him to continue still.
This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romanes, remained in
subjection under the French till the yeare, 1281. in which Peter of
Arragon, contrived his purpose so close, that at the sound of a Bell,
to the evening vespers, all the French men in Sicilia were cruelly
massacred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of
Arragon, and now of Spaine, which exploit masketh under the name of
Vesperi Siculi. For nobility this Iland may compare with Naples, their
styles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenewes wondrous small.
The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of both, [A true
comparison betweene the French and the Spaniards.] that the French are
wiser than they seeme, and the Spaniards seeme wiser then they are:
And even as the Spaniard is extremely proud in the lowest ebbe of
Fortune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, cowardly desperate,
and quite discouraged in the pinch of sterne calamity. The Spaniard
and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditionall
disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different,
and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a
Camell, with his knees and heeles alike aside, sitting on the sadle,
like to a halfe ballast ship, tottering on top-tempestuous waves:
And the French man, hangeth in the stirrop, at the full reach of his
great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse
with neck-stropiat spurres, and beating the wind with his long waving
limbes, even as the Turkes usually do, when they are tossed at their
Byrham, hanging betweene two high trees, reciprocally waving in the
ayre, from the force of two long bending ropes.
[The Sicilian customes.] The women ride here stridling in the sadle,
and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also
after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious mourning twice a
day, for a moneths space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and
clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores:
Yet neither shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will
both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custome for the dead,
the Turkes observe, and all the Orientall people of Asia.
This Iland finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers shee once
produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; Empidocles, the first
inventer of Rhetoricke; Euclide the textuary Geomettrician; Diodorus
Siculus that renowned Historian, and Æshilus the first Tragedian
of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age,
by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rocke, let a
shell-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it beat out his braines.
But to proceed in my itinerary relation, having twice imbarked at
Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Affricke, I have choosed the last
time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of
my departure thence: After a generall surveigh of this Iland and
Monte Bello [Mine arrivall at Messina.] arriving at Messina, Anno
1616. August 20. I encountered with a Worshipfull English Gentleman
Mr. Stydolffe Esquier of his Majesties body, accompanied with my
Countrey man Mr. Wood now servant to James Earle of Carelill, who
instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affabilitie of which
former Gentleman to mee in no small measure was extended; meeting also
afterward at Naples, as in the owne place shall be succinctly touched.
Here I found some 60. Christian Gallies, assembled to the Faire of
Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17. of August: Wherein all sorts
of Merchandize are to be sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: 30
of which Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messina is foure
miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposit
Maine. This Rhegium was that Towne where Saint Paul arrived after his
ship-wracke at Malta in his voyage to Rome: It was miserably sacked
by the Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno, 1609. but now by the
Spaniards it is repaired with stronger walles, and new fortifications,
sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such like accidentall invasions.
In this time of mine abode here, there happily arrived from Italy
my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dowglas his Majesties Chirurgion
extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of
the Christian incursions against the Infidels, whose presence to me
after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable,
and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Ætna)
as the peculiar badge of my innated love.
High stands thy top, but higher lookes mine eye,
High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire,
High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see,
But higher farre this breast, whilst I aspire:
High mounts the fury of thy burning fire,
But higher far mine aimes, transcend above:
High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire,
But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love,
High presse thy flames, the Christall aire to move,
But higher moves the scope of my engine,
High lieth the snow, on thy proud tops I prove,
But higher up ascends, my brave designe.
Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame
But my poore soule, the highest Heavens doth claime,
Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops,
Thy height makes fall from me ten thousand drops.
Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English [The death
of Sir Frances Verney.] Gallant Sr. Frances Verny lying sick in a
Hospitall, whom sixe weekes before I had met in Palermo: Who after many
misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning his Countrey,
and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian
Gallies: In one of which he was two yeares a slave, whence hee was
redeemed by an English Jesuite, upon a promise of his Conversion to
the Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common Souldier,
and here in the extreamest calamity of extreame miseries, contracted
Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably interred in the best manner,
time could affoord me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable
mutability of Fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so
meane a Buriall; and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.
After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, their fortunately
accoasted heere twelve Napolitan Gallies come from Apulia, and bound
for Naples: In one of which, by favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce
the Generall, I imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas,
which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait whereof, is 24. miles in
length, in breadth 6. 4. and 2. miles. This Sea, is called the faro
of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, wee met with
two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken
Seas, did choake the Gallies with a strugling force:
Incidunt in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charibdim.
Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast,
On sandy Scilla, wrestling they are lost.
[A comparison of irrepugnable streames.] Yet of no such eminent perill,
or repugnable Currents, as be in the firths of Stronza and Westra:
especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the
mayne Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from eyther
sides, may quickly loose sight both of Life and Land for ever. As we
entred in the Gulfe of Saint Eufemia, we fetched up the little Ile
of Strombolo: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse,
growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike
the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a
Chimney arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously
casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate,
dare Coast or boord it.
South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily
lye the two Ilands, Vulcan Major, and Minor; whereof the lesser
perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On
the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Ile belonging to
Naples, and 20. miles in Circuite, being strongly begirded with Rockey
heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whether Ferdinando of Naples fled,
being thrust out of his Kingdome by Charles the eight.
[A boyling Fountaine in the Ile of Ischa.] There is a Fountayne here
of that incredible heate, that in short time will boyle any fish
or flesh put in it, and the taste agreeable to digestion. Departing
from thence, and coasting the mayne shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot
in Chase, where seazing on her, we found 16. Moores therein, and sixe
Christians, three men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up,
in going betweene two Townes by the Sea side. The Peasants were set
at liberty, and the Moores immediately preferred to chaynes of Iron,
bloody lashes, tugging of Gally oares, and perpetuall slavery.
Neere the Marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boorded close by the
foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burne, but now
extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his
time in discovering the secrets of Nature; pressing neere to behold
it, was stifled with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place,
which is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles,
by his Nephew the younger.
Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne
to Christendome, and the day following, I went to review the auncient
Monuments of Putzola or Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked
in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English
Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me turne backe to
accompany them hither. When come, we tooke a Guide, and so proceeded
in our sights; the first [The antiquities of Putzolo.] thing of any
note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded
betweene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad:
Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined to
this day: The next, was the new made Mountayne of Sand, which hath
dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an Earth-quake transported hither;
at the foote of this fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes
Village.
Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of
Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted)
are as yet undemolished.
This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with comely heights,
being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short
mile. The West end whereof, is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma,
whether Æneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage,
and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.
Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we [Sybilaes
Cave.] came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of
the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne Rocke,
our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The
first passage was exceeding high Cime, and the further end stopped
with mouldring earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through
a very straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber,
which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially decored with Mosaical
Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell frequented her Company, and where
shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most
intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walke sidling in)
to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full
of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottome.
This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish Water, [The
old dining roome of Sybilla.] and was the dining Roome of Sybilla:
In which hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if
it had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the
bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from
whence such a sound proceeded? Who answered, they were Dragons and
flying Serpents, praying us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily
affrayde: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter;
and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I, leaving the
other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Having more then halfe way
entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water,
and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under
ground, the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide,
but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neyther
would he, nor durst he hazard to support us.
Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult
way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped
downe to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him
on the dry stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted for
my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for
indeed the distracting noyse drew aye nearer and nearer us. At last,
falling neare the voyce of our guide, who never left shouting, wee
returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages,
till wee were in open fields.
Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely requited,
being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous
Sunne disburdned me quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came
to [The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.] the Bagni,
the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of Baia, and the Laborinth
of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the
coverture of which, is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony
earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian
fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, the mother
of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he
was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury:
Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument
we saw, was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for their
Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry of which, is nothing
inferiour to the former.
Meanewhile here arrived the French Gallies, fetching home Chevalier
du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast
of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate
English ship belonging to Captaine Pennington, which they as a
Cursaro or man of Warre confiscated. Their Anchors fallen, I boorded
the Queenes Galley, where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man
of speciall acquaintance, [The Mr. of a Scots ship distressed by
evill misfortune.] George Gib of Burrowtownenes (who was Pylot to the
English) fast chained to an oare, with shaven head and face: Who had
his owne shippe twice seazed on by the Turkes, and Mamora, which ship
he lastly recovered at the Ile Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being
miserably worme-eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable
love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall in England, I
should procure by the helpe of his friends, his Majesties letters to
the Duke of Guyse Admirall, for his deliverance. But soone thereafter,
being of a great spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseils.
Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis,
Et fugiunt fræno, non remorante Dies.
Times slide away, gray haires come posting on,
No reyne can hold, our dayes so swiftly gon.
Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Sulphatara, where the fine
Brimstone is made, which is a pretty incircling Plaine, standing
upon a moderate hight; having three vents, through two of which, the
smoaking flame ariseth, and the other produceth no fire; but after
an excessive raine surgeth sixe foote high with blacke boyling water,
which continueth so long as the rayne lasteth.
From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto di cane;
wherein if a Dogge be cast he will suddenly die, and taken thence,
and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith revive: This Grotto or Cave,
standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago
di Avagno: We desirous to make tryall of a Dog; and finding the fellow
that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable, I adventured in
stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe; Whereupon Maister Stydolffe
holding up the quartered doore, I entered to the further end thereof,
bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence: whereat the
Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: for behold (say they)
there was a French Gentleman the former yeare, who in a Bravado,
would needes goe in: whereupon hee was presently stifled to death,
and here lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a caveat,
to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like.
[The dangerous Dogs Cave neare unto Putzolo.] The relation indeed
was true, but I counting nothing of it, would needes (sore against
the Gentleman and Master Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to
the bottome being ten paces long, the moysty and choaking heat did
so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with much adoe I returned
backe; where receiving the fresh ayre, and a little Wine, I presently
forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an
easie composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a string to
his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave, where
immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell downe dead: And forthwith
his Master repulling him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in
water in his eares, but hee could never recover his life. Whereupon
the poore man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I doe, the Dog
that wonne my dayly food is dead; in compassion whereof the worthy
Gentleman doubled his wages.
In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through Virgils Grot,
being halfe a mile long, and cut through the maine body of a Rocke,
whereby the Mountaine of Cataia by the Sea-side is made passable;
at the East end whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe:
and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of
his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of my adventure in Grotto di Cane,
they could hardly be perswaded to beleeve it: But when avouched,
they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which
never man had done before me reserving life.
Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di
lavoro, and in the way of Saint Germane, and Mount Cassino to Rome;
within ten miles of Capua, [Great poverty under great titles.] I found
the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world affoordeth: having no more
(nor never had he, nor any before him) than dui Carolini or Juletti
twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle,
Baron, and Knight in Italy, who is unable at one time, to keepe a
foote-man at his heeles, a Dog at his foote, a Horse betweene his
legs, a good sute of clothes on his backe, and his belly well fed;
so glorious be their stiles, and so miserable their revenewes.
Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at
the breach of day another houres sight and conference, with my Cousing
Simeon Grahame; who ere the Sunne arose, crossing Ponto flamingo,
brought me on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a Jayle
held us both fast, where leaving our reciprocall loves behind us,
wee divided our bodies East and West.
And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best, to let our Papists here
at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell deaths, of most of their
Popes beyond Seas: which their owne best Authors in France, Italy,
and Spaine, have justly & condignely avouched & recorded; & authorized
also to light by their prime powers civil and spirituall. The papists
generally hold, that in their Popes, is all power; Super omnes
Potestates, tam Cæli quam Terræ; above all powers both in Heaven
and Earth: They tearme him Alter Deus in terris; a second God upon
the Earth: Deus mortalis in terris, et immortalis homo in Cælis;
a mortall god upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the Heavens:
Some of them have allotted, that he is, Non deus, non homo, sed
utrunque; neyther God nor man but both: The Popes former title was
Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium,
King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.
[The false and arrogant titles of the Pope.] Paul the third,
entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany,
had this salutation: Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paule
the third, the best, and greatest God on earth. Then since they will
have them gods, above the God of Gods; tell me I pray you, what a May
pole Dauncer, was John 12. alias 13. of 18. yeares old, who made the
Lateran their great Church in Rome, a playne Stewes or Brothel house.
What a Pope-boy of twelve yeares old, was Benedict the ninth? and after
wrought by inchantments. Another Pope they had, whom they called Unum
pecus, in co quod de mane faciebat gratiam, et de sero revocabat: A
very Asse, for in the morning hee would grant many great kindnesses,
and at night revoake them all agayne. What a thiefe was Pope Boniface
the seventh? who robbed St. Peters Church? What a sodomiticall Pope
was Sixtus the fourth; who builded Stewes of both kindes, granting
his Cardinals the use of Sodomy, for three hote moneths. What an
Atheisticall Pope, was Leo the tenth? who called the Gospell a
Fable. What a Hereticall Pope was Honorius the first? who by sixe
general Counsels, was condemned for a Monothelit: What a perjured Pope
was Gregory the twelfth? and openly forsworne: What a Negromancer
was Silvester the second? who gave himselfe both soule and body to
the divell, to attaine the Popedome: What was Pope John the eleventh,
but a bastardly brat to Pope Sergius? What a sorcerer, Charmer, and
Conjurer, was Hildebrand, called Gregory the seventh? given to all
beastlinesse, and diabolicall practices; this was he that threw the
Sacrament in the fire: What was [A tract of beastly Popes and cruell
Villaines.] Innocent the third? who was branded with this black marke,
non est innocentius, imo nocens vere, he is not innocent; but very
nocent: What a wicked and cruell murtherer was John the twelfth a
Romane borne, who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall, and
the thumbe of another Cardinall; onely because they had wrot the
whole tract of his abhominable vices to the Emperour Otho.
What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was Stephanus the seventh? who
after he had cancelled the decrees of his predecessour Formosus,
caused to deterre his dead body, cut off his fingers, and lay him
in the fields to be devoured with the fowles of the aire: What a
beastly Pope was Sergius the third? that after he had imprisoned
Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw out the corps of
Pope Formosus his old compeditor from the grave, and cut off his head,
as though hee had beene alive.
What a cruelty was shown upon John the 17. who after he was depraved
his Papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his nose cut off and his members,
and was hanged: What a poysonable Pope was Damasus? who poysoned his
predecessour Clemens the second, to attaine the Papality, and yet dyed
within a moneth there after being Pope: What a mercilesse Pope was
Boniface the seventh, that after he had Rob'd Saint Peters Church and
fled to Constantinople, hearing that Pope John the 14. was replaced,
he returned, and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where
he dyed of extreame hunger. What a persecution had Gelase borne in
Gaetta neare Naples, who first by the Romanes was imprisoned, then
stoned through the Citty, miserably dyed. Gregory the 8. succeeding
him, was Deposed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgondy, who
imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made him selfe Pope.
What devotion fell out from the braines of Rome, to stone Pope Lucius
the second to Death: What a shamefull division was in your Papality;
for fifty yeares, when Urbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successours;
and Clemens 7. and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you have had
three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond King of Hungary and
Boheme was elected Emperour, to wit. [Three severall Popes living at
one time.] Benedict 3. at Avigneon; John 23. at Bullogna; and Gregory
the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could every one of them open and
shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell. What an Infidell, was Pope John
22. who denied the immortality of the Soule.
What was Clement the 5. but an open Whore munger and a drunken
sot. What was Boniface the 8. he was called a Theefe, a Robber,
and rooted in all unspeakable sinnes, the eight Nero of Rome. What
a furious and wicked Pope, was Julius the second? who given more to
Warre then to Christ, cast Saint Peters keyes (as they call them) into
Tiber. What a prophaine skoffer of Christ, was Paule the third? who
lying in bed with his owne Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by
her Husband; he lay with his owne Daughter, and poysoned her Husband;
and then lay with his owne sister, and after poysoned both her and his
owne mother. What was Julius the third? an open Sodomite, and horrible
blasphemer. What was Pope Eugenius? a damnable scandalizer of the
Church, and condemned by the Counsel of Basil, for an incorrigible
and wilfull Hereticke. Pope John 23. was deposed by the Counsell of
Constance, for Heresie, Symony, Murther, Enchantment, Adultery, and
[The Papists may looke here upon divellish Popes.] worst of all for
Sodomy. What was Pope John 13. a vilde monster in his life, committing
incest with both his sisters, and fathers Concubine Stephana: Hee
was a gamster, and playing at Dice, did call for helpe to the Divel,
and would drinke to the Divels health; hee was repleate with all
abhominable vices; at last being taken in the acte of Adultery,
was wounded to Death.
Boniface the 8. afore named, came to bee Pope, by cousning his
predecessour Celestine, in speaking through the Wall in a Reed (as
if it had beene a voyce from Heaven) admonished him to surrender his
Papacy; whose Epithit was thus: Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus,
Mortuus est ut Canis: He came in like a Fox, he ruled like a Wolfe,
he dyed like a Dogge.
At the sixt Counsell of Carthage, was not the treachery and falshood
of Pope Zosimus, condignely sifted out, in corrupting for ambitious
government the Counsell of Nyce. Bernard about 500. yeares agoe,
complayned much of the Tyranny of popes in his time, calling them
Defrauders, Raveners, Traytors, darknesse of the world, Pilats,
Wolves, and Divels.
Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now governe their Church,
are for the most part Theeves and Murtherers. And Platina, calleth
some of their popes vile Monsters, uncleane beasts, and strange
creatures. And I remember it was noted by a Historian: Episcopos
Romanos ne peccata quidem sine laude committere: The Popes could do
nothing, were it never so mischievous, but it was commendable.
And even likewise are their prime Pardons, for Noxas preteritas,
aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quo ad commissa, quam
quo ad committenda crimina absolvenda; That his Holinesse hath all
manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as
from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares [A false
cannonized Saint.] ago Paulo Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo,
the late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne to bee
a notorious and scelerate liver: done sooner by fifteene yeares then
their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Duckats;
allotting Prayers, Miracles, Pardons, and Pilgrimages to him, and
erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet
the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver by all reports,
could never, nor cannot attayne to the dignity of a Saint, his meanes
was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive.
And how wonderfull absurd is the Popes Bulla di Santa Cruzada, pro
defunctis in Purgatory; that for one Pater noster, at a Masse saying,
or a Masse sayd for them: Sicavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime
qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall relieve any three soules out
of Purgatory whom you please. Nay, I have seene the Popes Edict so
gracious, that induring one Masse, as many Paters as you can recite,
as many soules you free from thence.
And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might soone empty that
purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant touch with his finger,
during his Prayers, a gaudy beede inraveled betweene five small
fast made irons, placed before the Altar; their Bulla, their payment
for it; their Paters, their Devotion for their friends soules, are
all lost. Then say, if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be
oblivious in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and
Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell Monster,
that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office
in Hell, should detayne any poore soule in such torments, as they
say are in Purgatory.
Infinite passages of the like kind could I Recite, if I had longer
time and larger leisure; and especially of their miraculous leyes, or
leying Miracles; in erecting of falshood, and maintayning of perjury;
but till a fitter occasion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse,
and so proceede. Having left my afore-sayde friend Maister Grahame,
at a Taverne at Bilbo neere to Rome, I set forward through the
vaile of Ombria and the Countrey Romania, [Ravenna the chiefe City
of Romania.] whereof Ravenna is Lady, and the Pope Lord, I arrived
(the way of Ferrara and Padua) at Venice. Who then was levying
an Army against the Croatian Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of
Grasso now Emperour. Of which Army Count Mansfield was Generall, and
with whom I crossed the Gulfe to Pola in Istria, and from thence to
the siege of Gradisca: The discourse whereof, I have here formerly
avouched in the second Part of my first Travailes. Now to speake of
a Souldier, certainely hee is more then prayse-worthy and fortunate,
that hath faced the Low-Countries, reviewed Briscia in Lombardy,
and footed and sighted the Arsenal of Venice, then his eyes have
first seene, the sonnes, the force, the policies and Kingdome of
Mars: Secondly, the fiery shoppe of Vulcan, where rarest Armes and
Weapons are hammer'd out upon the Anvill, for the honour of Mars;
and lastly the incomparable Armory or store-house for Sea and Land,
the Meggazin and treasury of Mars.
Now leaving both the Armies barking at other like to Hircanian wolves,
I traced the fertile soyles of Carindia, Carneola, [Vienne in Austria
no way answerable to common fame.] and Stria even to Vienna: all which
were subject to the Emperour, save a part of Carneola, that groanes
under the Turke. Being arrived at Vienne, I found the Towne, and the
flying fame of it far different, either for greatnesse, strength,
or wealth: for the Towne rising upon a moderat height circular,
is but of small compasse without, not passing two English miles.
The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the Towne; and the
strength of it is no way comparable to a hundred Cities that I have
seene, neither is it for wealth so much to be admired, being depraved
of Seas, shipping, and navigation, having onely the needfull prosperity
of dry land Townes.
Here I found a Turkish Ambassadour, going downe the Champion
Danubio of Europe, for Constantinople; and with him one Gratianus,
a Greeke his Interpreter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged;
and with whom I imbarked downe the River to Presburge a place where
the Hungarian Crowne is kept, and from thence discending the River
to Comorre, the downemost Towne the Emperour retayneth on Danubio,
I left my noble Interpreter, and traversed the Champaine Countrey.
The chiefe Townes whereof I wil briefly touch, and so proceed: Buda
is the capitall Citie of Hungary, wherein the Turkish Bassaw hath
his residence, and was taken in by Solyman the Emperour, the twenty
of August 1526. the other is the aforesaid Presburge, aunciently
Bosonia; the rest are Belgrad or Albegrek, aunciently Taurinum, in
Dutch Griechs: Weissenberge, that was taken by Soliman, 1520. Valpa,
and Singidum, upon the Danubio, both under the Turke, and that of
the seven Churches upon the River Drana taken in, in the yeare one
thousand five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in the
yeare one thousand five hundred sixty sixe.
[The special Townes of Hungary.] Moreover upon the Danubio, the Towne
Strigonium commonly Grana, and Alberoyall otherwise Stulvesenburg,
a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronations of the Kings of
Hungary, and was taken by the Turkes, Anno 1543.
Neare the same place is Stridon, where they say St. Jerome was borne:
And now above all other the strong Towne of Gamorra, standing in an
Ile of the Danuby of that same name, which the Turkes have so oft
besieged, yet never could surprise it.
There is also Tockay, and Januarin or Rab seated too upon Danuby,
a Towne as it were impregnable, yet it was overtaken by the Turkes,
and lastly recovered by the Christians.
[The forces of the Bassa of Buda.] The Beglerbeg of Buda, hath under
his command, eight thousand Timariots, and twelve thousand common
Souldiers which lye in Garrison, in continuall pay on the confines
of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these confines belonging to the
house of Austria: The Bassa hath under his authority 13. Sanzacks,
lying at these thirteene Townes here undernamed, to wit, Novaguard,
Semendria, Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesiæ, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock,
Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zegedin, and Sexard.
The other Beglerbegship of Hungary is at Temesara, who retaineth under
his command eight Sanzacks and as many jurisdictions, spreading his
authoritie over sixe thousand Timariots, and eight thousand foote
souldiers; and these Sanzacks lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad,
Mudania, &c. The great Turke hath eight Beglerbegs or Bassawes under
him in Europe; that of Bosna being one of them, who commandeth ten
Sanzacks and eight thousand Timariots; the residence of which Bassa is
at Bagivialezza, a commodious place lying in the midst of circulating
Provinces; over which he spreads the Ballucco of his power.
[Hungary is a most fertile and fruitfull soyle.] The soyle of Hungary
aboundeth infinitly in all things the earth can produce for the well
of man; and produceth admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow neare
and about the Towne of Sirmia, and so sweet, that they may compare with
the Wines of Candy, yea, and aboundeth in all kind of bestiall, that it
is thought this Kingdome may furnish all Europe with Beefe and Mutton.
The Hungarians are descended of the Hunnes, a people of Scythia or
Tartary. The auncient Inhabitants divided their habitations in nine
circles, which the Germanes named Hagyes, and impaled them with high
walles, made [The first plantation of Hungary.] of earth and wood,
being twenty foote high, and as much in breadth, being rampierd with
divers Bulwarks and Towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hearbes,
and fructiferous trees.
The space from side to side of each one of these circles, amounted
to twenty Dutch miles; the Townes, Villages and houses being within,
and so contrived, that each one was within cry of another: this was
the first admirable plantation of the Hunnes in this Kingdome.
The Hungarians have ever beene thiftuous, treacherous and false,
so that there one brother will hardly trust another, which infidelity
among themselves and distracted deceitfull governours, was the chiefest
cause of their overthrow and subjection under Infidels: And so have
corrupt Counsellors, and insolent Princes beene the ruine of their
owne Kingdomes; for if we would have a Prince fit to governe others,
and to direct him selfe with the square rules of wisdome and judgement,
to know how to become all places, and to use all fortunes; let him
bind his tender youth with a disposition temperd with sadnesse: for
such a man can neither seduce his minority with ill examples, nor
marre his waxen age with a false impression, too common a condition
of these dissolute times.
[The infinite riches of Hungary.] Now as for the Hungar soyle, and
Kingdome it selfe, and for the goodnes of it, it may be tearmed the
girnell of Ceres, the Garden of Bachus, the Pastorage of Pan, and the
richest beauty of Silvan: for I found the Wheat here growing higher
then my head, the Vines over looking the trees, the Grasse jusling
with my knees, and the high-sprung Woods, threatning the clouds:
surely if I should enter on particulars here, I have more subject to
worke upon, than any Kingdome that ever I saw: The Kingdome is divided
in two parts, the higher and the lower, the lowest, largest, and best
is under the Turke, and the other narrow proportion under the Emperour.
The Hungarian miles are the longest upon earth, for every one of
theirs, is sixe of our Scots miles, nine English: so that the most
that ever I could travell there in one day, was but sixe miles: Their
language hath no affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the
greatest part of the Countrey both under the Turke and Emperour are
Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the other being Arians
and Papists.
There is a great Gentry in this Kingdome, but untravelled abroad,
farre lesse mannerly at home, being luxurious and ill taught, and
damnably given to that Masculine misery, the whole Southerne World is
defiled with. Having now traversed all the Countrey to Grana, and so
to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so covered with Woods, and
them full of Murtherers (for I was robbed on these confines, and hardly
saved my life) I was constrayned I say, to returne to Tockai in the
higher Hungary, and from thence in one day I stepped into Transilvania.
[A description of Transilvania.] This Countrey is so environed with
high and unpassable mountaines about, that there is but only five
entries to come into it, which make it so strong and impregnable:
Within there is a rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles long, and
sixe broad, being beautified with six faire Townes; the chiefest
whereof, are Cromestate, Juliastrad, and Hermestat. The sides of the
mountaynes within rise all upward halfe levell way even to the tops,
which maketh a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best mixt
soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine, there groweth nothing
but Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, and Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower
parts of the Hills about, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages;
and toward the extreame circulary heights, only Pastorage for Kine,
Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickets of woods: So fram'd that every
one supplieth another, for they of the Valley furnish the other two
parts with Victuall, and they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter,
and Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one another
as they need. Here I found every where kind and familiar people;
yea, and the very Vulgars speaking frequent Latine, and so commonly
doe all the Hungarians. The Inhabitants here are all Protestants,
but for their Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee
was lying sicke of a Feaver at Juliastrad: This Province is a free
Principality, and notwithstanding adherent in some respect to the
authority of the Turke. But now having left this Religious Country,
and crossing the North passage of the Hils, called the Borean Berger,
or North mountaine, I entred in Moldovia; where for my welcome in the
midst of a border-Wood, I was beset with six murderers, Hungarians and
Moldavians: where having with many prayers saved my life, they robbed
mee of threescore Hungar Duccats of gold, and all my Turkish clothes,
leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned to me my Patents,
Papers, and Seales.
This done, and for their better security, they caryed mee a little
out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an
Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my armes backward so likewise:
swearing to me, that if I cryed for helpe, or marred them of their
designes before the Sun set, they would turne backe and kill me;
promising then to set me free.
[A joyfull deliverance from a desperate thraldome.] But night come,
and I forgotten, was left here in a trembling feare, for Wolves and
wild Boares till the morrow; where at last by Gods providence I was
relieved in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me with
an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat; one of them
caryed me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of
Starhulds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes:
And was more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne bounty, and
Noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would not suffer mee to
goe any further in the Countrey, because of the Turkes jealousie over
strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince,
with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover,
the Ambassadours house.
Well, I yeeld to the Noble mans counsell, and giving him all dutifull
thankes for his kind regards, he sent a guide with mee for two dayes
journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland,
bordering with Tartary.
The halfe of which Countrey I found left disinhabited and desolat
by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined to have entered
in Tartary, but finding no conduct nor assurance of my safety, I
continued my course to Crocavia, situat on the upper Frontiers of
Polland bordering with Hungary.
Tartary is thought to be sixe hundred leagues in length, confining
Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North
with Russia, and to the West with Podolia, and Moldavia.
[The Tartars are mighty oppressours of Podolia in Poland.] The Tartars
are not expert in Warre, neither are they so valerous as the Turkes,
nor so manly as the Polonians, who counter-blow them at rancounters;
neverthelesse by stealth of inroades, they mightily suppresse the
extreamest parts of Polland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or Emperour
of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince, and the Moscovites call
him Catzar Cataiski, to wit, the Cæsar of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed
and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the sonne
of God, the man of God, and the soule of God: yea, and the greatest
Oath that they thinke can be sworne, which they usually doe in matters
of fidelitie and importance, is by his Throne Royall.
This custome of idolatrous obeysance, came first by one Rangavistah,
who being chosen to be their Emperour, would try their promptnesse and
goodwill of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest
Princes, and head Governours under him of the people, to kill their
Infants, with their owne hands.
And notwithstanding the Commandement seemed very rude and intollerable,
yet they fearing the common people, who esteeme their Emperours to
be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats
every one of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes,
and the sight of the people.
Insomuch that ever since, the life and death of the Tartars, depend
upon the good-will and word of the King, which no way they dare
contradict, such is the ignorant [A love not worthy thinks.] reverence
they carry toward him. As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his
Death, in inclosing or interring quicke in a Vault neere to his
Tombe, one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to goe
serve him in Paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the
Vulgars Superstition, who Religiously feast upon the Corpes of their
aged Parents, and then doe burne their bones into ashes, giving them
such a buriall, as we give our Witches; for indeede the Wormes come
short among the dead Tartars of their foode.
Being arrived in Crocko or Crocavia, the capitall City of Polland
(though but of small importance) I met with diverse Scotish Merchants,
who were wonderfull glade of mine arrival there, especially the two
brothers Dicksones, men of singular note for honesty and Wealth. It
was my lucke heere, to bee acquainted with Count du Torne, the first
Noble-man of Boheme, who had newly broake out [The Counte of Torne
fled from Prage to Poland.] of Prison in Prage, and fled hither from
Bohemia for safety. Mathias then being Emperour, against whom hee
had highly offended in boasting him in his Bed-Chamber with hard and
intollerable speeches: Saying to Mathias in his face, and before his
Wife the Empresse: Loe there is the right hand that helped to put the
Imperial Crowne on thy head, and behold now there is my foote shall
strike it off againe.
This Fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes to discourse, and
beare him Company, for then hee had but onely one follower that came
post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very
familiar in his cariage: [This Sigismond King of Polland did marry two
sisters of Ferdinando now Emperour.] At last his trayne and treasure
comming with many other Bohemian Barons and Gentlemen his friends,
I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina where the Judges of
Polland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at Warsow, the resident
place for the King Sigismond who had newly married the other Sister of
his former Wife being both Sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour:
A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than
for a Christian Prince or shepheard.
But it is no matter Pope Paulus Quintus gave him licence, and in that
liberty, a wide passage to Purgatory: who, when dead that incestuous
guilt will bee royally purged; loe there his pontificall absolution.
Betweene Crocavia, and Warsow Lubilina; lying halfe way it is a hundred
Pollonian miles or French leagues: Here I found abundance of gallant
rich Merchants my Countrey-men, who were all very kind to me, and
so were they by the way in every place where I came, the conclusion
being ever sealed with deepe draughts, and God be with you.
Polland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in Horse-men, and
populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar
and manly Gentry, and a ruvidous vulgarity: They are all for the most
part, of square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighes
and legs, grim and broad faces, and commonly their shaven heads are
finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked shables: for they,
and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thicknesse the biggest,
and grossest people the world affoordeth.
The soyle is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this Countrey
is become the Girnell of Westerne Europe for all sorts of graine,
besides Honey, Waxe, Flaxe, Iron, and other commodities: And for
auspicuousnesse, I may rather [Polland is the Nurse of Scotlands
common younglings.] tearme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the
youth and younglings of Scotland, who are yearely sent hither in
great numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in cloathing,
feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse of her best things;
besides thirty thousand Scots families, that live incorporate in
her bowells. And certainely Polland may be tearmed in this kind,
to be the mother of our Commons, and the first commencement of all
our best Merchants wealth, or at the least most part of them.
And now ceasing to peramble through any moe particulars of this
familiar Nation to us, I was kindly transported from Warsow upon
a Waggon to Dansick, being fifty leagues distant, with a Generous
young Merchant William Bailey my cliddisdale Countrey man, to whose
courtesies I still rest thankfull.
Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three weekes space, insomuch
that my Grave and Tombe was prepared by my Countrey-men there.
Neverthelesse in end (it pleased almighty God) I recovered my health,
and then imbarked for Alseynure in Denmarke, where being better
convalessed, I recoursed backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem:
where after five or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse
like to returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made hast for England.
At last finding the commodity of an English shippe belonging to
Ratcliffe, wee hoysed sayle, and set forward through the sound, or
Belticke Sea for Alseynure agayne: Whence after three dayes abode,
bidding farwell to that tributary Towne and Castle, wee Coasted the
scurrile and Rockey face of Norway, at two severall parts, but not
without great stormes, and contrary Windes, yea and once finally
indangered with a threatening shipwracke, which with good lucke we
happily escaped.
These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seaventh day the winds
refavouring us, wee safely arrived at London, from whence I first
began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregination.
Magnum virtutis principium est, ut dixit paulatim exercitatus animus
visibilia & transitoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit
derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhuc, cui patria dulcis est, fortis
autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus vero, cui mundus
exilium est.
THE END OF THE SECOND BOOKE, OF MY SECOND TRAVAILES.
THE TENTH PART
Contayning the third Booke, of my third Travailes.
Now swolne ambition, bred from curious toile
Invites my feet, to tread parch'd Æthiops Soile,
To sight great Prester Jehan, and his Empire;
That mighty King, their Prince, their Priest, their Sire;
Their Lawes, Religion, Manners, Life and frame,
And Amais, mount-rais'd, Library of Fame.
Well, I am sped, bids Englands Court adiew,
And by the way the Hiberne bounds I view;
In whose defects, the truth like Razor sharpe
Shall sadly tune, my new-string'd Irish Harpe:
Then scud I France, and crossed the Pyrheneise
At the Columbian heights, which threat the skies;
And coasting Pampelon, I trac'd all Spaine,
From Behobia, to Jubile Taure againe.
Then rest'd at Malaga, where I was shent
And taken for a Spie, crush'd, rackt, and rent.
Where ah! (when Treason tride) by fals position;
They wrest'd on me their lawlesse Inquisition:
Which after Tortures, Hunger, Vermine gnashes,
Condemn'd me quick, stake-bound, to burn in ashes:
Gods Providence comes in, and I'me discovered
By Merchants meanes, by Aston last delivered:
Where noble Maunsell, Generall of that Fleete,
That I was rack't for; did kind Halkins greete
With strict command, to send me home for Court,
To show King James, my torments, pangs, and tort:
Loe I am come, to Bath I'me sent, and more
Mine hoplesse life, made Worlds my sight deplore;
Which here I'le sing, in Tragicke tune to all
That love the Truth, and looke for Babels fall.
But now having finished the two Descriptions, of my first and second
adventures; it rests now most necessary, to relate the meritorious
designe, and miserable effect of my third Voyage. After I had (I say)
by the great Providence of God, escaped infinite dangers, by Seas
suffering thrice shipwracke, by Land, in Woods and on Mountaynes
often invaded; by ravenous Beasts, crawling and venemous Wormes daily
incombred; by home-bred Robbers, and remote Savages; five times stripd
to the skin; excessive fastidiousnesse, unspeakable adversities,
parching heates, scorching drouth, intollerable distresses of hunger,
imprisonments, and cold; yet all these almost incredible sufferings
past, could never abate the flame of mine austiere affection conceived;
but ambitious curiosity, exposing me to a third Voyage, I may say as
Æneas did in his penetentiall mood:
O socii neque enim ignari sumus ante malorum,
O passi graviora, dabit Deus his quoque finem.
O Socials! we're not ignorant of losses;
O suffrings sad, God too, will end these crosses.
But to observe a methodicall order, I thinke it best to show the
unacquainted Reader, a reasonable satisfaction for undertaking this
third, and almost invincible attempt.
First, the most speciall and urgent cause, proceeded from a necessary
good (the necessity of knowledge) in the requisite perfection, of
Europes full and spacious sight, the ancient Tierce, and now most
Christian world; wanting formerly no part thereof unseene, as well
under the Turke as Christian, except Ireland and the halfe of Spaine.
[Certaine approved reasons.] The second cause was mooved, from a more
insatiate content, that when I had, and having compassed all Europe,
my Resolution, was to borrow a larger dimmense of ground in Affricke
then formerly I had done in twice before, even to Æthiopia, Prester
Jehans Dominions. For the same effect, and a greater impression to
my Resolution, I set Pen to Paper, drawing from the distaffe of the
Retractable Muses, a Poeticall Pamphelet; Dedicated to themselves,
to their profound Apollo, his then hopefull Heire, and diverse Noble
Peeres of both Kingdomes.
And having from a Royall favour obtayned his Majesties Letters and
Seales of safe Conduct, and Regall recommendation, to all Kings,
Princes and Dukes, &c. I in all obsequious humility, bad farewell, to
this sequestrate and most auspicuous Monarchy; and arriving at Dublin
in Ireland, August the two and twenty, one thousand sixe hundred and
nineteene, I saluted the Right Honorable Sir Oliver St Johns late
Lord Grandison, and then Lord Deputy there, from whom for regard and
singular courtesies, I was greatly obliged: So was I also to many of
the English Nobility and Knight hood there: who through the whole
Countrey where ever I came intertayned mee kindly, sending Guides
with mee from place to place; yea, and sometimes safe-guards also;
beside in their houses great good-cheere and welcome: But in speciall
a dutifull remembrance I owe, to the memory of that sometimes [The
matchlesse Lord Cichester for vertue, wisdome, & valour.] judicious
and Religious Lord Arthur, late Lord Cichester, Baron of Belfast,
&c. Who in his time for Vertue, Wisedome, and Valour, wore the Dyademe
of Love, and Garland of true Noblenesse: Of whom, and for whose losse,
if I should more praise, and longer lament, my Inke would turne to
brinish teares, and I to helpelesse sorrow: But leaving him who lived
in goodnesse here, and now in glory for ever, I celebrate these Lines,
to his eternall Fame.
If ever Bounty shin'd in loyall Brest?
If ever Judgment, flow'd from generous mouth?
If ever Vice-Roy, rul'd this Kingdome best?
If ever Valour, honour'd hopefull youth?
If ever Wisdome, Astreas worth possest?
If ever Vertue, was inclin'd to rueth?
If ever Justice, enormities redrest?
If ever Patron, paterne was of truth?
Then noble Cichester, the Heavens assigne,
These gifts (thy honour'd parts) were truely thine.
And now after a generall surveigh of the whole Kingdome, (the
North-west part of Canoch excepted) accomplished: from the 1. of
September til the last of February; I found the goodnesse of the Soyle,
more then answerable to mine expectation, the defect only remayning
(not speaking of our Collonies) in the people, and from them, in the
bosome of two gracelesse sisters, Ignorance and Sluggishnesse.
[The foure Provinces of Ireland.] This Kingdome is divided in
foure Provinces, although some allude five, that is, Easterne and
Westerne Maith, but they are understood to be annexed to Leinster:
Their names are these, Leinster, Munster, Ulster, and Canoch:
The South-most whereof, is Munster a soile (and so is Leinster in
most parts) nothing inferiour, if seasonably manured, to the best
grounds in England. The Iland lyeth almost in a Rotundo, being every
way spacious; the greatest River whereof is Shannon, whose course,
amounteth to eight score miles, inclosing within it many little Iles.
And this I dare avow, there are moe Rivers, Lakes, Brookes,
Strands, Quagmires, Bogs, and Marishes, in this Countrey, then
in all Christendome besides; for Travalling there in the Winter,
all my dayly solace, was sincke down comfort; whiles Boggy-plunging
deepes kissing my horse belly; whiles over-mired Saddle, Body, and
all; and often or ever set a swimming, in great danger, both I, and
my Guides of our Lives: That for cloudy and fountayne-bred perils,
I was never before reducted to such a floting Laborinth. Considering
that in five moneths space, I quite spoyled sixe horses, and my selfe
as tyred as the worst of them.
And now I call to memory (not without derision) though I conceale
the particular place and Prelate; it was my Fortune in the County
of Dunagale, to bee joviall with a Bishop at his Table, where
after diverse Discourses, my ghostly Father grew offended with mee,
for tearming of his Wife Mistresse: which, when understood, I both
called her Madame, and Lady Bishop: Whereupon he grew more incensed;
and leaving him unsatisfied; resolve me Lector? if it be the Custome
heere or not? and if, amends shall repay over-sight, a ghostly Wife,
shall be still Madam Lady with me; if not, mine observed manner shall
be Mistresse.
But now to come to my punctuall Discourse of Ireland; true it is,
to make a fit comparison, the Barbarian Moore, the Moorish Spaniard,
the Turke, and the Irish-man, are [The ignorant and sluggish life of
the common Irish.] the least industrious, and most sluggish livers
under the Sunne, for the vulgar Irish I protest, live more miserably
in their brutish fashion, then the undaunted, or untamed Arabian,
the Divelish-idolatrous Turcoman, or the Moone-worshipping Caramines:
showing thereby a greater necessity they have to live, then any
pleasure they have, or can have in their living.
There Fabrickes are advanced three or foure yardes high, Pavillion-like
incircling, erected in a singular Frame, of smoake-torne straw,
greene long prick'd truff, and Raine-dropping watles. Their several
Roomes of Palatiat divisions, as Chambers, Halls, Parlors, Kitchins,
Barnes, and Stables, are all inclosed in one, and that one (perhaps)
in the midst of a Mire; where, when in foule weather, scarcely can
they finde a drye part, whereupon to Repose, their cloud-baptized
heads. Their shirts be woven, of the wooll or Linnen of their owne
nature, and their penurious foode semblable, to their ruvid condition.
And lastly, these onely titular Christians, are so ignorant in
their superstitious profession of Popery, that neither they, nor the
greatest part of their Priests know, or understand, what the mistery
of the Masse is, which they dayly see, and the other celebrat, nor
what the name of Jesus is, either in his divine, or humane nature:
Aske him of his Religion? he replyeth, what his father, his great
grand-father were, that will he be also: And hundreds of better
then the common sort, have demanded mee, if Jerusalem, and Christs
sepulcher were in Ireland, and if the Holy Land was contiguat with
Saint Patrickes purgatory.
[A foolish and superstitious errour.] They also at the sight of
each new Moone, (I speake it credibly) bequeath their Cattell to
her protection, obnixiously imploring the pale Lady of the night,
that shee will leave their Bestiall in as good plight, as shee found
them: And if sicke, scabbed, or sore, they solicitat her mayden-fac'd
Majesty to restore them to their health, in which absurdity, they
far surmount the silly Sabuncks, and Garolinean Moores of Lybia:
Indeed of all things (besides their ignorance) I onely lamented their
heavie bondage under three kind of Masters; the Land-lord for his Rent,
the Minister for his Tythes, and the Romish Priest for his Fees: And
remarke when their owne Irish Rent masters have any voyage for Dublin,
or peradventure superspended at home in feasting of strangers, then
must these poore ones be taxed and afflicted with the supply of the
devasted provision of their prodigall houses; otherwise in supporting
their superfluous charges for Dublin.
O? what a slavish servitude doe these silly wretches indure, the
most part of whom in all their lives, have never third part food,
Natures clothing, nor a secure shelter for the Winter cold.
The miserable sight whereof, and their sad sounding groanes, have
often drawne a sorrowful remorse from my humane compassion.
As for their Gentry such as are brought up here at London, learne
to become a great deale more civill, than these who are brought up
at home, after their owne rude and accustomable manner: And this
I observed, in my traversing the whole Kingdome, I never saw one,
or other, neither could move any of that selfe Nation, to pledge
or present his Majesties health; but as many other healths as you
list; they will both fasten, and receive from you, till they fall
in the muddy hotch potch of their dead Grandfathers understanding:
Indeed for entertainment of strangers they are freely disposed,
and there Gentlemen of any good sort, reserve ever in their houses,
Spanish Sack, and Irish Uscova, and will be as tipsy with their wives,
their Priests, and their friends, as though they were naturaly infeft,
in the eleven royall Tavernes of Naples.
[Two intollerable abuses in Ireland.] And now amongst many, there
are two intollerable abuses of protections in that Kingdome: The
one of Theeves and Woodcarnes, the other of Priests and Papists:
I discourse of these corruptions now, as I found them then.
The first is prejudiciall to all Christian civillnesse tranquill
government, and a great discouragment for our collonizd plantators
there, belonging to both soyles of this Iland, being dayly molested,
and nightly incombered with these blood-sucking Rebells.
And notwithstanding of their barbarous crueltie, ever executed
at all advantages, with slaughter and murder upon the Scots and
English dwellers there; yet they have and find at their owne wills
Symonaicall protections, for lesser or longer times; ever as the
confused disposers, have their law-sold hands, filled with the bloody
bribes of slaughtered lives, high-way, and house-robbed people: And
then thereafter their ill got meanes being spent, like unto dogs,
they returne backe to their former vomit; so jugling with their in,
and outgoings, like to the restlesse Ocean, that they cannot, nor
never did, become true [The filthy corruption of Irish Priests and
Wood-Carnes, theevish Rebells.] subjects to our King, nor faithfull
friends to their Countrey: Unlesse by extremity of Justice, the
one still hanged before the other, the remanent by the gallowes may
examplifie amendment, contrarywise that Land shall never be quiet:
for these villanous Woodcarnes are but the Hounds of their hunting
Priests, against what faction soever, their malicious malignity is
intended: Partly for intertaynement, partly for particular splenes,
and lastly, for a general disturbance of the Countrey, for the Priests
greater security and stay.
The other abuse is, their Libertinous Masses, the redresse whereof,
I first to the Heavens, and then to my Prince bequeath: whose Sabboth
recusant mony, whereof they bragge (as they say) in derision of
our luke-warme dispensation, tendeth to none other purpose, but to
obumbrat the true light of the Gospell, and to feed their absurd,
and almost irrevocable ignorance.
And neverthelesse at their dayly meetings (experience taught mee) there
was never a more repining people against our Prince and Church as they
be: for in this presumption a twofold cause arriseth, want of zeale,
and Church discipline in our part, and the officious nine penny Masse
on their part: yea, all, and each of them, so exacted and compounded
with at higher or lower rates, as the officers in this nature please.
The distribution whereof I nowaies paralell to the sleight concaviating
veynes of the earth, nor the sole supply of high-rising Atlas, neither
to invelope the Perpendiculars of long-reaching Caucasus: howsoever
tect-demolished Churches, unpassable Bridges, indigent Schollers,
and distressed Families be supported there-with, I am as cleare of
it as they, although I smart by the contrary confusion.
But leaving this and observing my Method, I remember I saw in
Irelands North-parts, two remarkable sights: [A bad and uncivill
Husbandry in Ireland.] The one was their manner of Tillage, Ploughes
drawne by Horse-tayles, wanting garnishing, they are only fastned,
with straw, or wooden Ropes to their bare Rumps, marching all side
for side, three or foure in a Ranke, and as many men hanging by
the ends of that untoward Labour. It is as bad a Husbandry I say,
as ever I found among the wildest Savages alive; for the Caramins,
who understand not the civill forme of Agriculture; yet they delve,
hollow, and turne over the ground, with manuall and Wooden instruments:
but they the Irish have thousands of both Kingdomes daily labouring
beside them; yet they can not learne, because they wil not learne, to
use garnishing, so obstinate they are in their barbarous consuetude,
unlesse punishment and penalties were inflicted; and yet most of them
are content to pay twenty shillings a yeare, before they wil change
their Custome.
[Northerne Irish women giving sucke to their Babes behind their
shoulders.] The other as goodly sight I saw, was women travayling
the way, or toyling at home, carry their Infants about their neckes,
and laying the dugges over their shoulders, would give sucke to the
Babes behinde their backes, without taking them in their armes: Such
kind of breasts, me thinketh were very fit, to be made money bags for
East or West-Indian Merchants, being more then halfe a yard long,
and as wel wrought, as any Tanner, in the like charge, could ever
mollifie such Leather.
As for any other customes they have, to avoyd prolixitie I spare;
onely, before my pen flee over Seas, I would gladly shake hands with
some of our Churchmen there, for better are the wounds of a friend,
than the sweet smiles of a flatterer, for love and trueth can not
dissemble.
Many dissembling impudents intrude themselves in this high calling
of God, who are not truely, neither worthily thereunto called; the
ground here arrising either from a carnall or carelesse presumption,
otherwise from needy greed, and lacke of bodily maintenance.
[An Ecclesiasticke corruption in unlawfull Preachers.] Such is now the
corruption of time, that I know here even Mechanick men admitted in the
place of Pastors: yea, and rude bred Souldiers whose education was at
the Musket mouth, are become there, both Lybian grave, and unlearned
Church-men: Nay; besides them professed; indeed professed Schollers:
whose warbling mouthes ingorged with spoonefuls of bruised Latine,
seldome or never expressed, unlesse the force of quaffing, spew it
forth from their empty sculles: Such I say, interclude their doctrine,
betweene the thatch and the Church-wall tops; and yet their smallest
stipends shall amount to one, two, three, or foure hundred pounds
a yeare.
Whereupon you may demand mee, how spend they, or how deserve they
this? I answer, their deserts are nought, and the fruite thereof
as naughtily spent: for Sermons and Prayers they never have any,
neither never preached any, nor can preach.
And although some could, as perhaps they seeming would, they shall
have no Auditour (as they say) but bare walles, the plants of their
Parishes, being the rootes of mere Irish. As concerning their cariage,
in spending such sacrilegious fees, the course is thus.
The Alehouse is their Church, the Irish Priests their Consorts,
their Auditors be fill and fetch more, their Text Spanish Sacke,
their Prayers carrousing, their singing of Psalmes the whiffing
of Tobacco, their last blessing Aqua vitæ, and all their doctrine,
sound drunkenesse.
[A flattering covenant twixt Ministers and Masse Priests.] And
whensoever these parties meete, their parting is Dane-like from a Dutch
Pot, and the Minister stil purse bearer defrayeth all charges for the
Priest: Arguments of Religion, like Podolian Polonians they succumbe;
their conference onely pleading mutuall forbearance; the Minister
affrayed of the Priests Wood-Carnes, and the Priests as fearefull
of the Ministers apprehending, or denoting them; contracting thereby
a Gibeonized covenant, yea, and for more submissions sake, hee will
give way to the Priest to mumble Masse in his Church, where hee in
all his life made never Prayer nor Sermon.
Loe there are some of the abuses of our late weake, and stragling
Ecclesiasticks there, and the soule-sunke sorrow of godlesse Epicures
and Hypocrites.
To all which, and much more have I beene an occular Testator, and
sometimes a constrayned consociat to their companeonry; yet not so
much inforced, as desirous to know the behaviour and conversation of
such mercenary Jebusites.
Great God amend it, for it is great pitty to behold it, and if
it continue so still, as when I saw them last; O farre better it
were! that these ill bestowed Tythes, and Church-wall Rents, were
distributed to the poore, and needy, than to suffocate the swine-fed
bellies of such idle and prophane Parasits.
And here another generall abuse, I observed that whensoever any
Irish dye, the friend of the defunct (besides other fees) paying
twenty shillings to the English Curat, shall get the corpes of the
disceased to be buryed within the Church, yea often, even under the
Pulpit foote: And for lucre interred in Gods Sanctuary when dead,
who when alive would never approach, nor enter the gates of Sion;
to worshipe the Lord, nor conforme themselves to true Religion.
Truely such and the like abuses, and evill examples of lewd lives,
have beene the greatest hinderance of that Lands conversion; for
such like wolves have beene from time to time, but stumbling blocks
before them; regarding more their owne sensuall and licentious ends,
than the glory of God, in converting of one soule unto his Church.
[Ministeriall offices strangely abused.] Now as concerning the
conscionable carriage of the Hybernian Clergy, aske mee, and there
my reply: As many of them (for the most part) as are Protestant
Ministers, have their Wives, children, and servants invested Papists;
and many of these Church-men at the houre of their death (like dogges)
returne backe to their former vomit: Witnesse the late Viccar of Calin
(belonging to the late and last, Richard, Earle of Desmond,) who being
on death bed, and having two hundred pounds a yeare; finding him selfe
to forsake both life and stipend, send straight for a Romish Priest,
and received the Papall Sacrament: Confessing freely in my audience,
that hee had beene a Romane Catholick all his life, dissembling
onely with his Religion, for the better maintaining of his wife and
children. And being brought to his buriall place, hee was interred in
the Church, with the which hee had played the Ruffian all his life;
being openly carryed at mid-day with Jesuits, Priests, and Friers of
his owne Nation, and after a contemptible manner in derision of our
profession, and Lawes of the Kingdome.
Infinite moe examples of this kind could I recite, and the like
resemblances of some being alive; but I respectively suspend (wishing
a reformation of such deformation) and so concludeth this Clergicall
corruption there. Yet I would not have the Reader to thinke that I
condemne all our Clergie there, no God forbid, for I know there are
many sound and Religious Preachers of both Kingdomes among them,
who make conscience of their calling, and live as Lanthorns to
uncapable ignorants, and to those stragling Stoicks I complayne of,
condemnatory Judges; for it is a grievous thing to see incapable men,
to jugle with the high mysteries of mans salvation.
[My departure from Ireland to France.] And now after the fastidious
ending of a tempestuous raine-sacking toyle, I imbarked at Yoghall
in Munster, February 27. 1620. in a little French Pinke bound for
St. Mallo in Bretagne. Where, when transported, I set face to Paris,
where I found the workes of two scelerat and perverst Authors: the
one of which had disdainefully wrot against the life and raigne of
Queene Elizabeth of sempiternall renowne: the other ignominiously,
upon the death of our late Queene Anne of ever blessed memory. The
circumstances whereof, I will not avouch, since Malaga detaineth the
notes of their abjured names, and perfidiat paines.
A just reward (may I say) refounded, upon these fond conceites,
you have of the fantasticke French: Especially these superstitious
straglers heere; who, when they have sucked the milke of their selfe
ends, and your lavish Liberalities without desert; returne a kicke with
their heeles (like to the Colt of an Asse) in your teeth agayne. And
there your meritorious thankes, and their shamefull slaunders, in
acquittance of your vayne Expence.
[The fantastick foolery of the French.] Tell me, if you be tyed like
Apes to imitate their ever-changing humours? and can you draw from
them (in any Art or cariage) a greater draught, then they draw from
the Italian, for first they be Imitators; next, Mutators; thirdly,
Temptators; and lastly, your Plantators, in all the varieties of
vanity. Have you a desire to learne modestly to Daunce, skilfully
to Fence, dexteriously to manage Great Horses, view Forraine sights,
learne Languages, Humane policies, and the like conducements:
Then rather reach, the Fountaine, whence they flow,
Whence Science, Arts, and Practise lively grow;
Than sucke the streames, of separate distasts,
He well derives, his labour never wasts;
Fond Fooles affect, what foolery Fooles effect,
The sequell sight, than sense, doth more infect.
Besides these two infamous Authors, what hath Edee, the Idea of a
Knave, (and Gentle man of the French Privy Chamber) done; who like
a Wood weather cocke, and giddy headed Foole, (full of deficient
Vapours) hath shamefully stayned with his shamelesse Pen, the light
of this Kingdome, which now I omit to avouch till a fitter time.
Thus, they fondly Write, thus they pratle, thus they sing, thus they
Daunce, thus they brangle, thus they dally in capritziat humours,
and thus they vary, in the fleering conceite of sa, sa, sa, sa, sa,
far beyond the inconstancy of all female inconstancies.
But to conclude this Epitome of France, three things [Certaine caveats
for strangers, that goe to France.] I wish the way-faring man to
prevent there: First, the eating of Victuals, and drinking of Wine
without price making; least (when he hath done) for the stridor of
his teeth his charges be redoubled. Next to choose his lodging (if
it fall out in any way-standing Taverne) far from palludiat Ditches,
least the vehemency of chirking frogs, vexe the wish'd-for Repose of
his fatigated body, and cast him in a vigilant perplexity.
And lastly, unlesse earely hee would arise, I never wish him to lye
neere the fore-streetes of a Towne; because of the disturbant clamours
of the Peasant samboies or nayle-woodden shoes: whose noyse like an
æquivox, resembleth the clashing armour of Armies; or the clangour
of the Ulyssen-tumbling Horse to fatall Troy.
But now to my purpose, leaving Paris behind me, I arrived at Pau in
Bearne. This Province is a principality of it selfe, anciently annexed
to the Kingdom of Navarre: lying betweene the higher Gascony of Guyan,
and the Pyrhenei Mountaynes of Baske, bordering with the North parts of
Navarre: Both of which, belongeth to the French King, except a little
of Baske toward the Columbian Alpes, and that the Spaniard commandeth.
Pau is the Justice seate of Bearne, having a goodly Castle, situate
on an artificiall Rocke; and in this place was that Martial Henry du
Burbone la Quatriesme borne, than King of Navarre.
Here be the finest Gardens in Christendome, the Gardens of Pretolino
(5. miles from Florence) only excepted. Yet for faire Arbors, spacious
over-siling walkes, and incorporate Trees of interchanging growths,
it surpasseth Pretolino: but the other for the variety of fructiferous
Trees, rare and admirable ponds, artificial fountaynes; Diana, and
her Allabaster Nymphly-portrayed trayne, the counter-banding force of
Agvadotti, and the exquisite banqueting Roome, contrived among sounding
unseene waters, in forme of Gargantus body, it much excelleth Pau.
[Biscai in Spayne is a scurrile Countrey.] Hence, I discended the
River of Orthes to Baion, and crossing the River Behobia, which
divideth France and Spaine, I entered in Biscai June 19. 1620. This
is a Mountaynous and invincible Countrey, (of which Victoria is
the chiefe City) being a barren and almost unprofitable Soyle. The
speciall commodities whereof, are Sheep, Woole as soft as silke,
Goates, and excellent good Iron: Cornes they have none, or little at
all, neither wine, but what is brought from Navarre in Pelagoes or
Swineskins, carried on Mulets backes.
Leaving Biscai, I entred Navarre, and came to Pampelona its
Metropolitane Citty: Here I found the poorest Viceroy (nomen sine
re) with the least meanes to maintaine him, that ever the World
affoorded such a stile. Navarre is but a little Kingdome, amounting
in length (with the South Pendicles of the high Pirhenese) to twenty
three leagues: That is, betweene Porto di St. Joanne in Baske, and
Grono upon the River Hebro, dividing the old Castilia and Navarre. In
breadth it extendeth to seaventeene Leagues, that is betweene Varen in
Biscai, and Terrafranca in Arragon: The soyle is indifferent fertile
of Cornes and Wines. From thence I set East-ward to Syragusa, the
Capitall Seate of Arragon.
Arragon, hath Navarre to the West, South Valentia Kingdome, East, and
South-east Catalogna; and on the North the Alpes Pyrhenese. It is an
auncient and famous Kingdome, under whose Jurisdiction, were both the
petty Kingdomes of Valentia, & Barselona: And not long ago traduced
to the Castilian King by marriage. For although Castilia hath the
language, they have the lineall dissent of the Romans; the Inhabitants
whereof being instinctively endued with all humane affabilities. From
thence returning through the old Castilia, or Kingdome of Burgos,
in the way to St. Iago of Compostella in Galitia: It was my fortune,
at St. Domingo to enter the Towne-Church: accompanied with two French
Puppies, mindfull to shew me a miraculous matter.
Where, when come, I espied over my head opposit to the great Altar,
two milke white Hennes, enraveled in [A leying miracle.] an iron Cage,
on the inner side of the Porches Promontore. And demanding why they
were kept? Or what they signified? Certaine Spaniards replyed come
along with us, and you shall see the Storie, and being brought to the
(Choro) it was drawne thereon as followeth. The father and the sonne,
two Burboneons of France; going in Pilgrimage to St. James, it was
their lot to lodge here in an Inne: Where supper ended, and reckoning
payed, the Host perceiving their denariat charge, he entered their
Chamber, when they were a sleepe, and in bed, conveying his owne
purse in the young mans Budget.
To morrow earely; the two innocent Pilgrimes, footing the hard
bruising way, were quickly over-hied by the Justice; where the Host
making search for his purse, found it in the sonnes bagge. Whereupon
instantly, and in the same place hee was hanged, and left hanging
there, seazing on their money be a sententiall forfeiture.
The sorrowfull Father (notwithstanding) continued his Pilgrimage
to Compostella. Where, when come, and devotion made, our Lady of
Mount Serata appeared to him saying: Thy prayers are heard, and thy
groanes have pierced my heart, arise, and returne to Saint Domingo
for thy sonne liveth. And hee accordingly returned, found it so,
and the sonne-hanged Monster, after 30. dayes absence, spoke thus
from the Gallowes, Father, goe to our Host, and shew him I live, then
speedily returne. By which direction the old man entred the Towne,
and finding the Host at Table, in breaking up of two roasted Pullets,
[A damnable delusion of a divellish miracle.] told him, and sayd:
My sonne liveth, come and see. To which the smiling Host replyed,
he is as surely alive on the Gallowes, as these two Pullets be alive
in the dish. At which protestation, the two fire-scorched fowles
leapt out suddainly alive, with heads, wings, feathers, and feet,
and kekling, tooke flight thrice about the Table. The which amazing
sight, made the astonished Host to confesse his guiltines; and the
other relieved from the rope, he was hung up in his place, allotting
his house for an Hospitality to Pilgrimes for ever.
There are still two Hennes reserved here, in memory of this miracle,
and aye changed, as they grow fat for the Priests chops, being
freely given to the place. And I dare swearing say, these Priests
eate fatter Hennes, than Don Phillipo him selfe, they being fed by
the peoples devotion, at their enterance to the morning and evening
sacrifices, and are tearmed holy Hennes. Infinite paper could I blot,
with relating the like absurdities, and miraculous lies of the Romane
Church, but leaving them till a fitter occasion, I proceed. From thence
traversing a great part of the higher Asturia, I entred in Galitia,
and found the Countrey so barren, the people so poore, and victuals so
scarce, that this importunate inforcement, withdrew me from S. Jacques,
to Portugale: Where I found little better, or lesser reliefe, their
soyles being absolute sterile, desartuous, and mountainous.
[The Kingdome of Portugale.] Portugale was formerly called Lusitania,
and Hispania, ulteriora: It is in length 320. miles, large 68. and
sometimes under: In the Moorish domination it was divided in two
Kingdomes, the one reserveth the name of all; the other was called
Agarbas: A word Arabick that signifieth the part Occidentall: And
were divided with the River Guadion, and the two Castles Odebera,
and Aleotino: Agarbas was toward the South, & Portugale Northward.
Portugale is now confined on the South, and South-East with Andolusia:
West and South-West, the maine Ocean. Galitia to the North: And
Eastward the old and new Castilia. After twenty dayes fastidious
climbing in this Kingdome, I returned to Salamancha in Castilia
Vecchia; the Sacerdotall University of Spaine, whence springeth these
Flockes of Studientes, that over-swarme the whole land with rogueries,
robberies, and begging. From thence traversing the Alpes of Siera de
Caderama, (which divide the two Castilias) I discended the South side
of the mountaines, and arrived at the Escurial; where then late King
Phillip the third, had his residence.
[The palace of Escuriall.] This Pallace standeth alone, and founded
upon the skirt of a perpendicular hill of Caderama, squared out from
a devalling steepnesse, having a large prospect Southwardly towards
the Evenise mountaines beyond Toledo. This palatiat cloyster is
quadrangled foure stories high, the uppermost whereof, is window-set
in the blew tecture: The stone worke below, having three rankes of
larger windowes, incircling the whole quadrangles, and French-like high
rigged. At every spacious squadrat corner, there is an high Turret
erected, above the coverture, whose tops beare each of them a golden
Globe. In the middle court standeth a round incorporate Church, arising
outward in a rotundo, with a wide leaden top, and on each side thereof
a squadrat Steeple, higher then the round, making a goodly shew. It
hath neither outward walles nor gates, but the two selfe doores of
the eleven incloystered petty Courts, save onely some office houses
without, and they stand alone by the hill broken side. [Escurial is
rather a Monastery than Palace.] I may rather tearme it a Monastery,
then a Kingly Pallace, having a hundred and fifty Monkes, Chartuzians,
of St. Hieronimoes order living within it; the King onely remaining
in a private corner, at his comming thither. Nay at that instant,
he was so private that before I saw his face, I could not beleeve,
that the Patrone of so great a Monarchy, could be so quiet; yea,
as quiet as a Countrey Baron is with us, and had lived so nine
weekes before. The house it selfe I confesse, excelleth in beauty,
that Constantinopolitan Seralia, of the great Turke: though not in
divisions, and ground distances, yet for a maine incorporate house,
and was builded by King Philip the second, standing seven leagues
from Madrile, to which I arrived.
Here is the residence of the Court though formerly at Valladoli:
Madrid or Madrile, is the Center or middle part of Spaine, situate
in the Kingdome of Toledo, the new Castilia. And distant from Lisbone
in Portugale Westward one hundred leagues: From Sevilia in Andoluzia
ninety leagues: From Grenada Southward, sixty eight leagues: Barselona
in Catalogna, East, South-eastward one hundred leagues: From Valentia
fifty leagues: From Siragusa in Arragon Eastward fifty three leagues:
From Saint Sebastian in Biscai North-westward seventy leagues: And
from Pampelona in Navarre, North-eastward, forty nine leagues. Spaine
generally, is a masse of mountaines, a barren ill manured soyle:
Neither well inhabited nor populous: Yea, so desartuous that in
the very heart of Spaine, I have gone eighteene leagues, (two dayes
journey) unseeing house or Village, except two Ventas, Tavernes. And
commonly eight leagues without any house: Villages be so farre distant,
the Rockie Seraes or Alpes so innumerable.
[It is miserable travelling in Spaine.] It is miserable travelling,
lesse profitable, in these ten Provinces, or petty Kingdomes, hard
lodging and poore, great scarcity of beds and deare: And no ready
drest diet, unlesse you buy it raw; and cause dresse, or dresse it
your selfe, buying first in one place your fire, your meate from
the Butcher, your bread from the Baker, your Wine from the Taverne,
your Fruites, Oyle, and Hearbes from the Botega, carying all to the
last place, your bed-lodging: Thus must the weary Stranger toile,
or else fast: And in infinite places for Gold nor money can have no
victuals; but restrained to a relenting jejunation. The high-minded
Spaniard and their high topped mountaines, have an infused contention
together. The one through arrogant ambition, would invade the whole
earth to inlarge his dominions: The other by a steepe swolne hight,
seeme to threaten the Heavens to pull down Jupiter from his throne. And
as I take it, the Spaniard being of a low stature, borroweth his
high-minded breast from the high topped mountaines, for the one in
quality, and the other in quantity, be extraordinarily infounded.
Certaine it is, as the Spaniard in all things standeth mainely upon his
reputation (but never to avouch it with single combat) so he vaunteth
not a little of his antiquity, deriving his pedegree from Tubal,
the Nephew of Noe. But (especially as they draw it) how often hath
the Line of Tubal, beene bastarded, degenerated, and quite expelled,
by invasions of Phænicians, oppressions of the Greekes, incursiones
of the Carthaginians, the Conquest and planting of Provinces, and
Colonies of the Romanes, the general deluge of the Gothes, Hunnes,
and Vandales: and lastly, [The long captivity of the Spaniards under
the Mores.] by the long and intolerable Tyranny of the Moores, whose
slavish yoake and bondage in 800. yeares, hee could scarcely shake
off; his owne Histories beare sufficient testimony and Record. Then
it is manifest, that this mixture of Nations, must of necessity
make a compounded Nature, such as having affinity with many, have no
perfection in any one.
Their Manners are conformable to their discent, and their conditionall
Vertues semblable to their last and longest Conquerors, of whom they
retayne the truest stampe.
The most penurious Peasants in the World be heere, whose Quotidian
moanes, might draw teares from stones. Their Villages stand as
wast like as the Sabunck, Garamont, or Arabian Pavilleons, wanting
Gardens, Hedges, Closses, Barnes, or Backe-sides: This sluggish
and idle husbandry, being a natural instinct of their neighbour or
paternal Moores.
As for industrious Artes, Inventions, and Vertues, they are as dull
thereof, as their late Predecessours: and truely I confesse for the
Spanish Nunne, she is more holy then the Italian; the former are onely
Reserved to the Friers, and Priests: The latter being more Noble,
have most affinity with Gentle-men. The Spaniard is of a spare dyet
and temperate, if at his owne cost he spend; but if given Gratis,
he hath the longest Tuskes that ever stroke at Table.
After a doubtfull and dangerous departure from Madrid (as Sir Walter
Aston his Majesties Ambassador can testifie with his Followers, as
some of his people have already here done the same,) being the drift
of my owne Country-men, I came to Toledo twelve Leagues distant from
thence: This Citty is situate on a ragged Rocke upon the River Tagus,
being an Arch-bishops seate, the Primat and Metropolitan Sea of all
Spaine: Yet a miserably impoverished and deformed place.
[Naked ambition conferred upon poore Toledo.] And although the
Spaniard, of all Townes in Spaine, braggeth most of Toledo, it
is neyther (doubtlesse I know) for beauty, bounds, nor Wealth,
if not for the Intrado belongeth to it, amounting yearely (as they
affirme) to 200000 Duckats; for there is no other Episcopal Seate,
in all Castilia, or Kingdome of Toledo. Giving backe to Toledo, I
crossed the crossing Siera de Morada, (which divideth the Kingdome of
Grenada, from the Mansha of the new Castilia) and arrived at Grenada,
the Capital of Andolusia.
Here had the Moores their last residence in Spaine, and was
magnanimously recovered, Anno 1499. yeares, by Ferdinando the Castilian
King, and his wife Isabella. It standeth at the foote of Siera de
Nevada (the Snowy Alpes,) who reserve continually Snow on their tops,
and partly inclosed betweene two Snow-melting Rivers. In this Citty is
the principall Seate, and Colledge of Justice, of all South Spaine:
As Valladoli is for the North of Spaine, the high Court of Madrid
having Prerogative over both.
It hath a spacious and strong Castle, which was builded by the Moores,
and indeede a Kingly mansion: Where I saw the Hals and Bed-Chambers
of the Moorish Kings, most exquisitly, over-siled, and indented with
Mosaicall worke; excelling farre any moderne industry whatsoever.
The Emperour Charles the fift, and King of Spaine; after his returne
from that misfortunate voyage of Algier, left a monument here, never
likely to have beene accomplished, that is, the foundation of an
admirable worke advanced two stories high: without it is quadrangled,
and within round; having two degrees of incircling promontores,
supported by Marble pillars, and Allabaster arches.
Being dismissed here, it was my fortune at Antecara to [Mr. Woodson a
London Merchant.] encounter with a Merchant, (M. Woodson a Londoner,)
newly come from Venice, and bound to Malaga. With whom desirously
accompanied, the day following being Sunday, with sore travayle wee
came within night to Malaga, and thereafter parting to our severall
Lodgings, the next morning I addressed my selfe to the shoare side;
where I had notice given me, of a French ship belonging to Tolon
in Provance, that was lying in the Mould, and shortly bound for
Alexandria: And finding that Transportation most convenient for my
designe (my safest course lying through Ægypt and the Red Sea, for
Prester Jehans Dominions and Court) I presently made bargaine with
the Ships-master, for my passage and Victuals.
And now attending my departure thence, uppon the fift day after my
comming hither Anno 1620. October 27. the English Fleete that went
agaynst the Pyrats of Algier, gave Anchor at mid-night in the Roade:
Whose suddaine comming, yeelded no small feare to the affrighted Towne,
mistaking them for Turkes; for the two Castle-bells Ringing backe-ward,
the thundring Drums resounding, and the Towne all the latter night in
Armes, bred such [Malaga affrighted with the English Fleet.] disturbant
despaire to their families, and distraction to themselves, that their
wives and children fled to the higher Castle without the Towne; and I
a stayd Consort with the Defendants till day light. But morning come,
and the English Colours discovered, Don Jaspar Ruiz de Peredas the
Governour, went aboord of the English Generall Sir Robert Maunsell;
where after congratulating complements, he being returned a shoare,
dismissed the Burgers and their Armes. In that afternoone, and the
day following beeing Satturday, there came hundreds a shoare of my
speciall friends, and olde familiars, Londoners, and Courtiers,
with whom desirously met, we were joviall together, till Sunday
morning: where then I went aboord of the Lyon, his Majesties ship,
and saluted the Generall, who kindly intertained mee to the next day,
that the Fleete was divided in three Squaders, and he under Sayle,
and then unhappily came I a shoare in a Fisher boate, to my deare
bought destruction, beeing sore agaynst the Generals will, but that
I should have gone with him to Algier: Save onely that my Linnen,
Letters, and Sacket was lying in my hostery, and so could not go:
but what shal I say?
Quod fortuna dedit, nemo tollere potest.
And so now followeth the sorrowfull Relations of my Tragicall
sufferings, which as briefly as I may, I shall succinctly avouch,
although the larger, the better to be understood.
Sad soule mixe truth, with grave and prompe discourse
Let passiones be, this Tragicke stile must rest
On Faith and Patience, Columnes of secourse,
Which underprop'd my sufferings here exprest:
Lord weigh my words, with wisdome, give me grace
In all this Worke, to give thy glory place.
I was no sooner entred the Towne, and drawing up a private way to
my lodging, to shunne company and acquaintance, for that night was
I to have imbarked for Alexandria, but I was suddenly surprised in
that narrow depopulated street, with nine Alguozilos, Sergeants, who
inclosing mee on both sides layd violent hands on mee, wrapping me up
in a blacke frizado cloake, and gripping my throat to stop my crying,
they carryed me on their armes to the governours house, and inclosed
me in a low Parlour.
[A sad request to a mercilesse Governour.] To which when the Governour
came, for I was acquainted with him before I sadly spoke, saying, My
most noble Governour, and worthy Lord, I humbly beseech your goodnes
to shew me, for what offence or cause, I am thus violently brought
before you, knowing that in me, and from my carriage, there is no
injury committed. Whereat, without answer, and shaking his head,
he caused inclose mee in a little Cabinet within the Parlour, till
he went for Masse, commanding them with all possible dilligence to
fetch hither, the Captaine of the Towne Don Francesco, di Cordova,
the Alcade major, and the States Scrivan, enjoyning them to conceale
my apprehending till further tryal under the paine of death.
At last he from the Masse, and they come hither, the Sergeants were
dismissed, the doores made fast, and I was brought forth before these
foure Cavalliers, all placed in chayres, and the Scrivan-table set,
with pen and paper to write my confession. Where after long silence,
the Governour asked mee of my Nation, and how long, and how often I
had beene out of my Country: and whether I was bound? and how long
I had beene in Spaine.
To whom I punctually returned my dividuat answers:
Whereupon being inclosed in my former Cabinet, within a while Don
Francesco entred my roome, demanding mee if I had beene in Civilia,
or was come from it; and clapping my cheeks with a Judas-smile made
this entreaty. My deare brother, and gallant Companion, confesse freely
that you have beene in Civilia, for your countenance bewrayeth, there
are some hidden purposes in the closet of your breast; and Para fuyr
mas malo, you had best in time relate to mee the trueth.
Whereat I saying no, as truth acquired, he went back, resolving them
of my stiffe denyall, and they therewith incensed, I was invited to
their former presence, and maine accusations ensuing. [A tyrannical
constrayned Oath.] First the Governour made me sweare and hold up
my hand, that I should tell the particular trueth of every thing hee
was to demand of mee; which indeed I did according to my knowledge.
Then he inquired if the English Generall, was a Duke, or great
Signior, and what could be the reason, that he refused to come
a shoare there; for that was the first impression of their false
conceived jealousie. Next; he asked mee, if I knew his name, and the
other Captaines and what their names were? and what their intention
was? or if I had knowne of their comming abroad, or preparation for
it, before my departure from England.
The Scrivan writing downe meanewhile every word he spoke and what
I answered: well; to all the former particulars giving condigne
satisfaction, and to the last, denying that I knew of the forth comming
of the fleet, they all foure gave a shout in the contrary. Whereupon
the Governour swearing, cursed and said, thou leyest like a Villane,
thou art a spy and a traytor, and camest directly from England of
purpose to Spaine; and hath beene lying nine moneths in Sivilia,
getting sure intelligence, when the Spanish Navy was looked for
from the Indies; and that thou expressely heere, came to meete with
the English Armado, (knowing of their dyet) to give them credible
knowledge thereof: And that by thy information, they might the more
readily compasse their endes, and thus thy treachery and subtilty,
hath beene imployed.
Whereat I being astonished, and seriously answering for the intention
of the English Fleete, and my owne [The English acquaintaynce, my
greatest hinderance.] innocency concerning them: He threatning sayd,
I was seene familiar a Boord and a shoare, with the whole Captaines,
and knowne to be of their speciall acquaintance: besides three hundred
other Gentle-men, and Mariners with whom, and they with thee, were
so inward, that it far exceeded the kindnes of accidentall meeting.
All this we saw, and hourely remarked (sayd hee) and thou art newly
come from the Generall, when thou wast taken, where consulting
with their Counsell of Warre this morning, (concerning what they
assigned thee to accomplish) thou hast delivered thy opinion, and the
expectation of Sivilia, touching the returne of his Majesties Armado
di Plato; and therefore thou art a Spiono, a Traytor, and a scelerate
Velacco: for wee are not ignorant (sayd he) of the burning of St. Thome
in the West Indies; for there and then, wee had a certaine evidence of
the English infidelity, and treacherous exploytes in time of Peace:
Wherefore these Lutheranes and Sonnes of the Divell, ought not from
us good Catholickes to receive no credit.
Whereupon I besought him, to send for some sufficient English Factors,
there sojourning, who would testifie the contrary in my behalfe,
their Countrey, and their Fleete, but that he would not, for my being
discovered. At last seeing his damnable opinion, and to cleare my
selfe of such false imputations: I requested him to send a Sergeant
to my Posado or Lodging for my Clogbag, where hee should see a more
evident Testimony of my carriage and honest purpose, and thereupon
the approbation of my Prince.
This demaund liked him well, thinking thereby to finde out all the
secrets and practises of my Negotiation with the English Fleete:
Whereupon forthwith, and with close Circumspection he had it
brought unto him, my hostage [His Majesties Letters and Seales
misregarded.] House not knowing where I was. The Clogbag I opened my
selfe, and showing him his Majesties Letters in parchment, and under
his Hand and Seale, dated at Theobals 1619. July 17. and compiled and
wrot by M. Thomas Red, then Secretary for the Latine Tongue, done in
my behalfe, and my intended Resolution for Æthiopia, the Kings safe
Conduct he mis-regarded, giving it neyther Respect nor trust.
After which, I show'd him divers Patents, Seales, and the great
Seale of Jerusalem, Pasports, and my Booke of Armes, called Liber
amicorum, wherein, I had the hand-writs, and Armes of sundry Kings,
Dukes, Princes, Vice-Royes, Marquesses, Earles, Lords, and Governors,
&c. done in Prose and Verse, in Greeke, Latine, or their maternall
tongues, being as propitious pledges of their favour, in commendation
of me, and of my Travailes.
But all these would not satisfie him, nay, rather confirming a
greater jealousie of his former suspition: whereupon misconstruing
all, they seased absolutely upon my Clog-bag, viewing, and detayning
all I had at their pleasure; including me the third time. This done,
and within night, beeing Represented againe, the Governour commaunded
me to subscribe my Confession, which I voluntarily obeyed; though
they still urged me further and further to confesse. Meanewhile
these foure Complices consulting about my Imprisonment, the Alcalde
or chiefe Justice would have had me along with him to the Town Jayle,
but the Corrigidor refused saying, Para non star visto con sus Pesanos:
That hee may not bee seene by his Country-men, it behoveth me to have
a care of his concealement: and I warrant you (sayd he) I shal lodge
him well enough.
[An injust robbery by unjust Judges.] Upon the knowledge of this,
that I was secretly to be incarcerate in the Governours Palace,
entred the M. Sergeant, and begged my mony, and Lycence to search
it: and liberty granted hee found in my pockets eleaven Philippoes
or Ducatons; and then uncloathing me before their eyes, even to my
shirt, and searching my breeches, he found in my Doublet necke, fast
shut betweene two Canvesses, 137. double peeces of gold. Whereat the
Corrigidor arose and counting my gold, being 548. duccats, he sayd to
the Sergeant, cloath him againe, and inclose him there in the Cabinet
till after Supper. Meanewhile the Sergeant got the 11. duccatons of
Silver; and my gold, which was to take me for Æthiopia, the Governour
seased upon; giving afterwards 200. Crownes of it to supply the new
layd Foundation of a Capuschine Monastery there, reserving the rest
(being 348. duccats) for his owne avaricious ends.
This done, and mid-night come, the Sergeant and two Turkish slaves
releasing mee from the inferiour Roome, brought mee through certayne
ascending passages, to a chamber, in a sequestrate side of the Palace,
toward the Garden, and right above his Summer Kitchen: Where there,
and then, the Sergeants, and the two slaves, thrust [And here is the
embleme of my misery.] on every ancle an heavy bolt, my legs being
put to the full stride, by a mayne gad of iron far above a yard long,
upon the endes of which the two bolts depended, that were fastned
about my legs. Insomuch, that I could never sit up, nor walke, nor
stand, nor turne me; but lay continually on my backe, the irons being
thrice heavier then my body.
[A miserable & helplesse Lamentation.] Whereupon beholding my
inevitable misery, and such monster-made irons my sighing soule
deplored thus: Alas Sergeant, and you two Slaves, remarke in me the
just Judgements of God; and loe how the Heavens have reducted me to
this meritorious reward, and truely deserved; for I have dearely and
truly bought it; that I whose legges and feete the whole Universe
could scarcely contayne, now these bolts and irons keepe them
fast, in a body length, of a stone-paved Floore. O foolish pride,
O suppressing ambition! and vaporous curiosity! woe worth the fury of
your aspiring vanities; you have taken mee over the face of the earth,
and now left me in a Dungeon hole: My soule, O my soule is leager unto
this Proverbe, Man proposeth, and God disposeth: O happy had I beene,
thrice happy in a Shepheards life.
Thus, and more lamenting the destiny of nature, they left mee with
solacious words, and straight returned againe with Victuals; being a
pound of boyl'd Mutton, a wheat bread, and a small Pint of Wine: which
was the first, the best, and the last of this kinde, that ever I got in
that woefull Mansion. The Sergeant leaving me (never seeing him more,
till a more unwelcomed sight) hee directed the Slaves, that after I had
contented my discontented appetite, they should locke the doore, and
carry the keyes to Areta, a Spaniard and keeper of the silver plate.
A little while after he was gone, the other Drudge left me also,
who was newly turned Christian: where being alone with Hazier the
naturall Turke, who was to attend me, feede me, and keepe me, lying
nightly a constrayned Centinell, without the doore of my imprisonment;
hee demanded me for what cause I was committed, and what malefact
I was guilty of? to whom I answered, onely for a naked suspition,
mistaking the honorable intention of the English Armado, I am as a
spy apprehended, and falsely accused.
[The mourning of Hazier a Turkish slave.] Whereupon the silly Slave
falling downe on his knees, held up his hands, crying, Hermano,
Hermano, es muy grand menester, par a tomar pacenza, &c. Brother,
Brother, it is much needfull for you to take all in patience,
for it is impossible now you can escape, some fearefull tryall,
and thereupon a horrible punishment even unto death; and alasse to
relieve you, if I durst, (as I dare not under death) to discover you
to your Countrey-men, I would doe it upon my knees, and leaving me
with a weeping good night, he made fast the doore, and transported
the keyes, as he was directed.
The day following the Governour entered my Prison alone, intreating me
to confesse that I was a spy, and he would be my friend, and procure
my pardon, neither should I lacke (interim) any needfull thing:
But I still attesting my innocency, hee wrathfully swore I should
see his face no more, till grievous torments should make me doe it;
and leaving mee in a rage, he observed too well his condition.
But withall in my audience, he commanded Areta, that none should
come neare mee except the slave, nor no food should be given mee
but three ounces of moosted browne bread, every second day, and a
Fuleto or English Pint of water, neither any bed, pillow, or coverlet
to be allowed mee: And close up sayd he, this window in his roome,
with lyme and stone, stop the holes of the doore with double Matts,
hanging another locking to it; and to withdraw all visible and sensible
comfort from him, let no tongue, nor feet be heard neare him, till
I have my designes accomplished: And thou Hazier I charge thee, at
thy incommings to have no conference with him, nor at thy out-goings
abroad to discover him to the English Factors, as thou wilt answer
upon thy life, and the highest torments can be devised.
These directions delivered, and alas too accessary to me in the
performance: my roome was made a darke-drawne Dungeon, my belly the
anatomy of mercilesse hunger, my comfortlesse hearing, the receptacle
of sounding Bells, my eye wanting light, a loathsome languishing in
despaire, and my ground lying body, the woefull mirrour of misfortunes:
every houre wishing anothers comming, every day the night, and every
night the morning.
[A speedy expedition for a mercilesse mischeife.] And now being
every second or third day attended with the twinckling of an eye,
and my sustenance agreeable to my attendance, my body grew exceeding
debile and infirme; insomuch that the Governour (after his answers
receaved from Madrile) made haste to put in execution, his bloody
and mercilesse purpose before Christmas Holy-dayes: least ere the
expiring of the twelfth day, I should be utterly famished, and unable
to undergoe my tryall, without present perishing, yet unknowne to
me, save onely in this knowledge, that I was confident to dye a
fearefull and unacquainted death: for it is a current custome with
the Spaniard, that if a stranger be apprehended upon any suspicion,
he is never brought to open tryall, and common Jayle, but clapd up
in a Dungeon, and there tortured, impoysoned, or starved to death:
Such meritorious deeds, accompany these onely titular Christians:
for the Spaniard accounteth it more to be called a Christian, than
either to beleeve what hee professeth, or to conforme him selfe to the
life of Christianity: yea, I sparingly avouch it, hee is the worst
and baddest creature of the Christian name; having no more Religion
(and lesse respective to devotion) than an externall presumptuous
show; which perfiteth this ancient Proverbe, The Spaniard; est bonus
Catholicus, sed malus Christianus.
In end, by Gods permission, the scourge of my fiery tryall approaching;
upon the forty seventh day after my first imprisonment, and five dayes
before Christmas; about two a clocke in the morning, I heard the noyse
of a Coach in the fore-street, marvelling much what it might meane.
[My transportation from prison to the fields to be racked.] Within
a pretty while I heard the locks of my Prison-doore in opening;
whereupon bequeathing my soule to God, I humbly implored his gracious
mercie and pardon for my sinnes: for neither in the former night nor
this, could I get any sleepe, such was the force of gnawing hunger,
and the portending heavinesse of my presaging soule.
Meanewhile the former nine Sergeants, accompanied with the Scrivan,
entered the roome without word speaking, and carrying mee thence, with
irons and all, on their armes through the house, to the street, they
layd mee on my backe in the Coach: where two of them sat up beside mee,
(the rest using great silence) went softly along by the Coach side.
Then Baptista the Coach-man, an Indian Negro droving out at the
Sea-gate, the way of the shoare-side, I was brought Westward almost a
league from the Towne, to a Vine-presse house, standing alone amongst
Vineyards, where they inclosed mee in a roome till day light, for
hither was the Racke brought the night before, and privately placed
in the ende of a Trance.
And all this secresie was used, that neyther English, French, or
Flemings, should see or get any knowledge of my Tryall, my grievous
Tortures, and dreadfull dispatch, because of their treacherous and
cruel proceedings.
At the breach of day the Governour, Don Francesco, and the Alcalde,
came foorth in another Coach: where when arrived, and I invited to
their presence, I pleaded [A stranger ought not to be accused with
strangers without an Interpreter.] for a Trench man, being against
their Law, to accuse or condemne a Stranger, without a sufficient
Interpreter. The which they absolutely refused, neyther would they
suffer or grant mee an Appellation to Madrid.
And now after long and new Examinations, from morning to darke night,
they finding my first and second Confession so runne in one, that the
Governour swore, I had learned the Arte of Memory: Saying further,
is it possible hee can in such distresse, and so long a time, observe
so strictly in every manner the poynts of his first Confession,
and I so often shifting him too and fro.
Well, the Governours interrogation and my Confession being mutually
subscribed: He and Don Francesco besought me earnestly to acknowledge
and confesse my guiltinesse in time: if not, he would deliver me in
the Alcaldes hands there present: Saying moreover, thou art as yet
in my power, and I may spare or pardon thee; providing thou wilt
confesse thy selfe a Spie, and a Traytour against our Nation.
But finding mee stand fast to the marke of my spotlesse innocency,
he, invective, and malicious hee, after many tremenduous threatnings,
commanded the Scrivan to draw up a Warrant for the chiefe Justice:
And done, he set his hand to it, and taking me by the hand, delivered
me and the Warrant in the Alcalde Majors hands, to cause mee bee
Tortured, broken, and cruelly Tormented.
Whence being carried along on the Sergeants armes, to the end of
a Trance or stone Gallery, where the Pottaro or Racke was placed:
The Encarnador or Tormentor, begunne to disburden me of my irons,
which beeing very hard inbolted he could not Ram-verse the Wedges for
a long time: Whereat the Chiefe Justice being offended, the malicious
Villaine with the Hammer which he had in his hand, stroake away above
an inch of my left heele with [A mercilesse hurt, before they begun
to Racke mee.] the Bolt. Whereupon I grievously groaning, beeing
exceeding faint, and without my three ounces of bread, and a little
Water for three dayes together: The Alcalde sayd, O Traytor all this
is nothing, but the earnest of a greater bargaine you have in hand.
Now the irons being dissolved, and my Torments approaching, I fell
prostrate on my knees, crying to the Heavens:
O Great and Gracious GOD, it is truely knowne to thy all-seeing
Eye, that I am innocent of these false and fearefull accusations,
and since therefore it is thy Good will and pleasure, that I must
suffer now by the scelerate hands of mercilesse men: Lord furnish mee,
with Courage, Strength, and Patience least by an impatient Minde, and
feebling Spirit, I become my owne Murtherer, in Confessing my selfe
guilty of Death, to shunne present punishment. And according to the
Multitude of thy Mercies, O Lord, bee mercifull to my sinfull soule,
and that for Jesus thy Sonne and my Redeemer his sake.
After this, the Alcalde, and Scrivan, being both chaire-set, the one
to examine, the other to write downe my Confession and Tortures: I
was by the Executioner stripped to the skin, brought to the Racke, and
then mounted by him on the top of it: Where eftsoones I was hung by the
bare shoulders, with two small Cords, which went under both mine armes,
running on two Rings of iron that were fixed in the Wall above my head.
Thus being hoysed, to the appoynted height, the Tormentor discended
below, and drawing downe my Legs, through the two sides of the
three-planked Racke, hee tyed a Cord about each of my ancles: And
then ascending upon the Racke, hee drew the Cords upward, and bending
[The hammes and lids of my knees were both broken.] forward with
maine force, my two knees, against the two plankes; the sinewes of
my hammes burst a sunder, and the lids of my knees beeing crushed,
and the Cords made fast, I hung so demayned, for a large houre.
At last the Encarnador, informing the Governor, that I had the marke
of Jerusalem on my right arme, joyned with the name and Crowne of
King James, and done upon the Holy Grave. The Corrigidor came out
of his adjoyning stance, and gave direction, to teare a sunder, the
name, and Crowne (as hee sayd) of that Hereticke King, and arch-enemy
to the Holy Catholicke Church: Then the Tormentor, laying the right
arme above the left, and the Crowne upmost, did cast a Cord over both
armes, seaven distant times: And then lying downe upon his backe, and
setting both his feete on my hollow-pinched belly, he charged; and
drew violently with his hands, making my Wombe support the force of
his feete, till the seaven severall Cords combind in one place of my
arme, (and cutting the Crowne, sinewes, and flesh to the bare bones)
did pull in my fingers close to the palme of my hands: the left hand
of which is Lame so still, and will be for ever.
Now mine eyes begun to startle, my mouth to foame and froath, and
my teeth to chatter like to the doubling of [O cruell and inhumane
murder.] Drummers stickes. O strange inhumanity of Men-monster
Manglers! surpassing the limits of their nationall Law; three score
Tortures beeing the tryall of Treason, which I had, and was to indure:
yet thus to inflict a seaven-fold surplussage of more intolerable
cruelties: And notwithstanding of my shivering lippes, in this fiery
passion, my vehement groaning, and blood-springing fonts, from armes,
broake sinewes, hammes, and knees; yea, and my depending weight on
flesh-cutting Cords; yet they stroke mee on the face with Cudgels,
to abate and cease the thundring noyse of my wrestling voyce.
At last being loosed from these Pinnacles of paine, I was hand-fast
set on the floore, with this their incessant imploration: Confesse,
confesse, confesse in time, for thine inevitable torments ensue:
where finding nothing from me, but still innocent, O I am innocent,
O Jesus! the Lambe of God have mercy upon mee, and strengthen mee
with patience, to undergoe this barbarous murder.
[Here begun my mayne tortures.] Then by command of the Justice, was
my trembling body layd above, and along upon the face of the Racke,
with my head downe-ward, inclosed within a circled hole, my belly
upmost, and my heeles upward toward the top of the Racke: my legs
and armes being drawne a sunder, were fastned with pinnes and Cords,
to both sides of the outward plankes; for now was I to receive my
maine torments.
Now what a Pottaro or Racke is (for it stood by the wall declining
downe-ward) it is made of three plankes of Timber, the upmost end
whereof is larger then a ful [Loe here is the manner how I was
mainly Racked.] stride; the lower end being narrow, and the three
planks joyning together, are made conformable to a Mans shoulders:
in the downe-most end of the middle planke there was a hole, wherein
my head was layd: in length it is longer than a man, being interlaced
with small cords from planke to planke, which divided my supported
thighes from the middle plank: Through the sides of which exteriour
planks there were three distant holes in every one of them; the use
wherefore you shall presently heare.
[The manner how my body was first fastned to the Racke before my
tortures were inflicted.] Now the Alcalde giving commission, the
executioner layd first a cord over the calfe of my leg, then another
on the middle of my thigh, and the third cord over the great of my
arme; which was severally done, on both sides of my body receaving
the ends of the cords, from these sixe severall places through the
holes made in the outward planks, which were fastned to pinnes, and
the pinnes made fast with a device: for he was to charge on the out
side of the planks, with as many pinnes, as there were holes and cords;
the cords being first laid meet to my skin: And on every one of these
sixe parts of my body, I was to receave seven severall tortures:
each torture consisting of three winding throwes, of every pinne;
which amounted to twenty one throwes, in every one of these sixe parts.
Then the Tormentor having charged the first passage about my body
(making fast by a device each torture as they were multiplied) he went
to an earthen Jarre standing full of water, a little beneath my head:
from whence carrying a pot full of water; in the bottome whereof, there
was an incised hole, which being stopd by his thumb, till it came to
my mouth, hee did powre it in my bellie; the measure being a Spanish
Sombre, which is an English Potle: The first and second services I
gladly receaved, such was the scorching drouth of my tormenting payne,
and likewise I had drunke none for three dayes before.
But afterward, at the third charge, perceiving these measures of water
to be inflicted upon me as tortures, O strangling tortures! I closed
my lips, gaine-standing that eager crudelity.
[A cruelty beyond cruelties.] Whereat the Alcalde inraging, set my
teeth asunder with a payre of iron cadges, detayning them there,
at every severall turne, both mainely and manually; whereupon my
hunger-clungd bellie waxing great, grew Drum-like imbolstered: for
it being a suffocating payne, in regard of my head hanging downeward,
and the water reingorging it selfe in my throat with a strugling force;
it strangled and swallowed up my breath from youling and groaning.
And now to prevent my renewing griefe (for presently my heart fayleth
and forsaketh me) I will onely briefly avouch, that betweene each one
of these seven circular charges, I was aye reexamined, each examination
continuing halfe an houre; each halfe houre a hell of infernall paine,
and betweene each torment, a long distance of life quelling time.
[A hellish and insupportable payne.] Thus lay I sixe houres upon
the Racke, betweene foure a clocke afternoone, and ten a clocke
at night, having had inflicted upon me three score seven torments:
Neverthelesse they continued me a large halfe houre (after all my
tortures) at the full bending; where my body being all begored with
blood, and cut through in every part, to the crushed and bruised bones,
I pittifully remayned, stil roaring, howling, foaming, bellowing,
and gnashing my teeth, with insupportable cryes, before the pinnes
were undone, and my body loosed.
True it is, it passeth the capacity of man, either sensibly to
conceave, or I patiently to expresse the intollerable anxiety of mind,
and affliction of body in that dreadfull time I sustayned.
At last my head being by their armes advanced, and my body taken
from the Rack, the water regushed abundantly from my mouth; then
they recloathing my broken, bloody, and cold trembling body, being
all this time starke naked, I fell twice in a sounding trance: which
they againe refreshed with a little Wine, and two warme Egges, not
for charity done, but that I should be reserved to further punishment;
and if it were not too truely knowne these sufferings to be of trueth,
it would almost seeme incredible to many, that a man being brought
so low, with starving hunger, and extreame cruelties, could have
subsisted any longer reserving life.
And now at last they charged my broken legs, with my former
eye-frighting irons, and done, I was lamentably carryed on their
armes to the Coach, being after mid-night, and secretly transported
to my former Dungeon without any knowledge of the Towne, save onely
these my [A lamentable remembrance of inhumane cruelty.] lawlesse,
and mercilesse Tormentors: where, when come, I was layd with my head
and my heeles alike high, on my former stones.
The latter end of this woefull night poore mourning Hazier the Turke,
was set to keepe me, and on the morrow, the Governour entred my roome
threatning me still with moe tortures to confesse, and so caused he
every morning long before day, his Coach to be rumbled at his gate,
and about me where I lay, a great noyse of tongues, [A dreadfull
affrighting for more tortures.] and opening of doores: and all this
they did of purpose to affright and distract me, and to make me beleeve
I was going to be rackt againe, to make me confesse an untrueth;
still thus they continued every day of five dayes till Christmas.
Upon Christmas day Mariana the Ladies Gentlewoman got permission
to visit me, and with her licence, she brought abundance of teares
presenting me also with a dish of Honey and Sugar, some confections,
and Rasins in a great plenty to my no small comfort, besides using
many sweet speeches for consolations sake.
Shee gone, and the next morning of Saint Johns day come, long ere
day the Towne was in Armes, the Bells ringing backward, the people
shouting, and Drummes beating; whereat my soule was over-joyed,
thinking that the Moores had seazed upon all: And in the after noone
the Turke comming to me with bread and water, being by chance the
second day, I asked him what the fray was? [Alas too good newes
not to have been true.] who replyed, be of good courage, I hope in
God and Mahomet, that you and I ere long shall be set at liberty;
for your Countrey-men, the English Armado, and mine the Moores, are
joyned together, and comming to sacke Malaga: And this morning Post
came from Allagant to premonish the Governour thereof; whereupon he
and the Towne have instantly pulled downe, all the Cowper shops,
and dwelling houses that were builded without by the shoare side,
adjoyning to the Townes Wall: But yet sayd he it is no matter, the
Towne may easily be surprised, and I hope we shall be merry in Algier,
for there is above a hundred sayle seene comming hither; and therewith
kissing my cheeke, hee kindly left mee.
Indeed, as for such newes from Allagant; the detriment of twenty
eight houses, the shoare-planted Cannon, the suspicion they had of
the English, and the Towne foure dayes in Armes were all true, save
onely the confederacy of the English with the Moores, that was false.
Witnesse Sir Richard Halkins, and the Captaines of his Squader, who
a little after Christmas, comming to the Road, went to the Governour
to cleere himselfe, and the Fleete of that absurd imputation layde to
their charge. The twelfth day of Christmasse expired, they beganne
to threaten me on still with moe Tortures, even till Candlemasse:
In all which comfortlesse time, I was miserably afflicted with the
beastly plague of gnawing Vermin, which lay crawling in lumps, within,
without, and about my body: yea, hanging in clusters about my beard,
my lips, my nostriles, and my eye-browes, almost inclosing my sight.
And for a greater satisfaction to their mercilesse mindes, the
Governour caused Areta, his silver plate keeper, to gather and swipe
the Vermine upon me twice in eight dayes, which tormented me to the
death, beeing a perpetuall punishment; for mine armes being broake,
my hands lucken and sticking fast to the palmes of both hands,
[No payne so grievous, as a lame man to be still tormented with
gnawing vermine.] by reason of the shrunke sinewes; I was unable
to lift mine armes, or stir my fingers, much-lesse to avoyde the
filthy Vermine: neyther could my legges and feete performe it beeing
impotent in all. Yet I acknowledge the poore Infidell, some few times,
and when opportunity served, would steale the keyes from Areta, and
about mid-night would enter my Roome, with stickes and burning oyle,
and sweeping them together in heapes, would burne the greatest part,
to my great Releafe; or doubtlesse I had beene miserably eaten up,
and devoured by them.
And now some eight dayes before Candlemasse, the slave informed me
that an English Seminary Priest, borne in London, and belonging to the
Bishops Colledge of Malaga; and a Scottish Cowper, named Alexander
Ley, borne in Dunbar, and there married; were in Translating all
my Bookes and Observations out of English, in the Spanish tongue,
bringing every other day numbers of wrot Papers to the Governour,
and for their paines had thirty duccats allowed, and that they were
saying, I was an Arch-Hereticke to the Pope and the Virgin Mary.
Having redounded him concealed thankes, I was assured of their bloody
Inquisition, preparing my selfe in God, with Faith, and Patience to
Receive and gane-stand it: for my spirituall Resolution, was surely
founded, being sightlesse of company, and humane faces, I had intirely
the light of my Soule celebrate to God Almighty.
[A politick enquiry of a damnable inquisition.] And hereupon the second
day after Candlemas, the Governour, the Inquisitor a Canonicall Priest,
entered my Dungeon, accompanied with two Jesuites, one of which was
Predicator, and Superiour of the Tiatinean Colledge of Malaga: Where
being Chaire set, Candle-lighted, and doore locked; the Inquisitor
after diverse frivolous questions, demaunded me if I was a Romane
Catholicke, and acknowledged the Popes Supremacy. To whom I answered,
I was neyther the one, nor did the other. And what power (sayd I,)
have you to challenge me of my Religion, since it is a chiefe Article,
of the former concluded peace, that none of our Kings subjects should
be troubled by your Inquisition; but as you have murdered me for
alledged Treason; so you meane to Martyre me for Religion.
And you Governour, as you have Tortured and hunger-starved this
helplesse body, consumed with cold and vermine to the last of my life;
the Almighty God who revealeth the secrets of all things (although I
bee never relieved) will certainely discover it, to my Countrey and to
the World. And is this the best of your good deeds? you repay to our
mercifull King, who then being onely King of Scotland, in the time
of your just over-throw of Eighty Eight, gave secourse to thousands
of your Shipwracked people for many moneths; and in the end, caused
transport them safely to their desired Ports. Leaving to the Worlds
memory an eternall stampe of Christian Bounty, Mercy, and royall
Charity, and your acquittance to him, is an imputation of Treachery
to his Fleete, detayning and mis-regarding his Letters and Seales,
and now imposing to a tormented Innocent, your lawlesse Inquisition.
To which the Governour answered, all that was true, but it was
done more through feare then love, and therefore deserved the lesser
thankes; but (interim) wee will follow the utter-most of our ends. And
the Jesuite Predicator to confirme his words, sayd, there was no
faith to be kept with Heretickes, which directly or indirectly is
the sublime policy of Conquerours, which our mighty and invincible
Nation evermore taketh notice of and observeth.
[A damnable Inquisitor applying false attributs to our blessed
Lady.] Then the Inquisitor arrising, expressed himselfe thus: Behold
the powerfull majesty of Gods mother, Commaunder of her Sonne, equall
to the Father, Wife to the Holy Ghost, Queene of Heaven, Protector of
Angels, and sole Gubernatrix of the earth, &c. How thou being first
taken as a Spye, accused for Treachery, and innocently Tortured (as we
acknowledge we were better informed lately from Madrile of the English
intention) yet it was her power, her Divine power, which brought these
judgements upon thee; in that thou hast wrot calumniously against
her blessed miracles of Loretta: and against his Holinesse, the great
Agent, and Christs Viccar on earth: Therefore thou hast justly fallen
into our hands, by her speciall appointment; thy Bookes and papers,
are miraculously Translated by her speciall providence with thy owne
Countrey-men: wherefore thou maist clearely see, the impenetrable
Misteries of our glorious Lady in punishing her offenders: and for a
humble satisfaction, Repent thee of thy wickednesse, and be converted
to the Holy mother Church. And after many such like exhortations of all
the foure, the Inquisitor assigned me eight dayes for my Conversion:
Saying, that hee, and the Tiatines would twice a day visite mee
in that time, intreating me to be advised againe the next morning,
of these doubts and difficulties that withstood my Conscience.
[A Sicophaniticall Oration from a jugling Jebusite.] Then in leaving
mee, the Jesuite Predicator making a a Crosse upon my crossed breast,
sayd, My sonne, beholde you deserve to be burnt quicke, but by the
grace of our Lady of Loretta, whom you have blasphemed, wee will both
save your Soule and Body: Spewing forth also this Fæminine Latine;
Nam mansueta et misericordiosa est Ecclesia, O Ecclesia Romana! extra
quem non est salus: They gone and I alone, all this night, was I
instant with my God, imploring his Grace, to Rectifie my thoughts,
illuminate my understanding, confirme my confidence, beatifie my
memory, to sanctifie my knowledge, to expell the servile feare of
Death, and to save my soule, from the intangling corruption of any
private ends, illusions, or mundane Respects whatsoever.
The next morning, the three Ecclesiastickes returned, and being placed
with Chaires and Candles, the Inquisitor made interrogation, of what
difficulties, errors, or mis-beliefe I had. To whom ingenuously I
answered I had none, neyther any difficulty, errour, nor mis-beliefe;
but was confident in the promises of Jesus Christ, and assuredly
believed his Revealed will in the Gospell, professed in the Reformed
Catholicke Church; which being confirmed by Grace, I had the infallible
assurance in my Soule, of the true Christian Faith.
To these words, he answered, thou art no Christian, but an absurd
Hereticke, and without Conversion, a member of perdition. Whereupon
I replied, Reverend Sir, the nature of Charity and Religion, doe not
consist in opprobious speeches; wherefore if you would convert me
(as you say) convince mee by Argument: if not, all your threatenings
of fire, Death, nor Torments, shall make me shrinke from the truth
of Gods Word in Sacred Scriptures. [The fury of a mad inquisitor
to have almost slain me.] Whereupon the mad Inquisitor clapd mee on
the face with his foote, abusing me with many Raylings, and if the
jesuites had not intercepted him, he had stobbed me with a knife;
where, when dismissed, I never saw him more.
The third day insuing (and having broake their promise) the two
Jesuites returned, and after a frowning silence, the Superiour asked
me of my Resolution: I told him I was Resolved already, unlesse hee
could show me good Reasons in the contrary. Whereupon having past
with me some few superficial Arguments of their seaven Sacraments,
Intercession, Transubstantiation, Images, Purgatory, Miracles, Merit,
&c. he begun to brag of their Church her Antiquity, Universality,
and Uniformity. Auncient no (sayd I) for the Profession of my Faith,
hath beene ever since the first time of the Apostles; And Christ
had ever his owne Church (howsoever obscure) in the greatest time of
your darknesse.
So Rome foure hundred yeares and upward, was the true Church; but
afterward falling in apostacy by meanes of her corrupt leaders,
wee have left her in nothing, but what shee hath left her former
selfe. Universall no; although shee assumeth a Catholicke name, was
not the Church in the East, a greater Church than yours in the West for
hundreds of yeares, and I pray you what are now the Orientall Churches
in Asia, (besides the Greeks) and the Æthiopian Affricans that doe
not so much as know, or heare of your Pope, far lesse his profession.
With no small adoe, Boniface the third, obtained of Phocas the Emperour
to be called universall Bishop: which was asisted afterward by Puppin
the French King, and ratified by Paleologus, the father of Constantine
who lost Constantinople: [The Romish Church falls short of true
antiquity, universality, and uniformity.] And what long contraversies
about this new power, was betweene your Popes, and the counsells of
Carthage, Calcedon, Ephesus, Alexandria, and Nice. Uniformable no;
some of your Priests give the Sacrament onely in Bread, for reall
flesh and blood, some in Wine without Bread, and some in both.
The Bavarians in their owne language sing the Psalmes in prose at
their Masses, and not else where done: The second Commandement goeth
current amongst some of your Catholicks in France, yet not in Bretagne,
nor Provance; so doth it in Austria and Bavaria, but not in Italy
and Spaine.
It is most evident, what your former Popes have confirmed, the
succeeding Popes have disanulled, and dayly doe, as their present
lives, and your auncient Histories beare a true record.
And was there not at one time, three Popes in three severall
places? and oftentimes two at once: One professing one Heresie,
and another Atheisme: What mutinies and malice, are dayly among your
Monasteries, each envying anothers priviledge, anothers preferment,
anothers wealth: And your order (father) by all the other Monasticks,
is hated and vilipended to death; besides diversities of Doctrine,
betweene your professors and the Dominicans: and hundreds of like
disunities you have both in ceremony and order which now I suspend:
So I pray you (father) where your uniformity, much lesse your
universality, and worst of all your antiquity.
Having thus concluded, the fiery fac'd Jesuits, with boisterous
menacings left mee; and the eight day thereafter, being the last day of
their Inquisition, they returned againe, in a more milder disposition:
where after divers arguments on both sides, the two Jesuits with
teares distilling from their eyes, solidly protested, they were
sorry from their heart, for that terrible death I was to undergo,
and above all the loosing of my soule: [The Jesuits last allurements
for my conversion to their sect.] And falling downe on their knees,
cryed, convert, convert, O deare brother! for our blessed Ladies sake
convert: To whom I replyed, that neither death nor fire I feared;
for I was resolved for both, yet thinking my selfe unworthy to suffer
for Christ and the Gospells sake, considering my vildnesse and my
owne unworthinesse: yet the Spirit of God assureth my faith, it is
his divine pleasure it should be so that I must suffer. Wherefore if
I should divert, trust mee not, for I would but dissemble with you
(through feare, flattery, or force) to shunne present death.
Whereupon they called the Governour, and after their privy consulting,
hee thus spoke; Deare brother, my greatest desire is, to have thee a
good Christian, a Romane Catholick, to which if thy conscience will
yeeld, I will shew thee as great courtesie, as thou hast receaved
cruelty: for pitty it were, that such an invincible spirit, and endued
with so many good parts, should perish in both worlds for ever. Plucke
up thy heart, and let the love of our blessed Lady enter in thy soule:
Let not thy former sufferings dismay thee, (for thy sores being
yet greene and curable) I shall transport thee to a fine Chamber,
and there thou shalst have all needfull things for the recovery of
thy health and strength. Thy money and Patents shall be refounded,
but thy hereticall Bookes are already burned: And lastly sayd he,
I will send thee with my owne Servant to Court, Counsel, and King,
with letters from the holy Inquisition, and from mee, faithfully
promising thou shalt enjoy a Pension of three hundred Duccats a yeare.
But having satisfied his bewitching policy with a Christian constancy;
they all three left mee in a thundering rage; vowing, I should that
night have the first seale of my long sorrowes: And directing their
course to the Bishop and Inquisitor (for the Governour had wrested
the Inquisition upon mee, to free him of his former aspersion layd
upon the English Fleet, and my tryall therefore, converting it
all to matters of Religion) the Inquisition (I say) sat forthwith,
[A condemnatory sentence to death by the Inquisition.] where first I
was condemned to receave that night eleven strangling torments in my
Dungeon: and then after Easter Holy dayes, I should be transported
privatly to Grenada, and there about mid-night to be burnt body
and bones into ashes, and my ashes to be flung into the ayre: Well,
that same night the Scrivan, Sergeants, and the young English Priest
entered my melancholly staunce: where the Priest in the English tongue
urging mee all that he could (though little it was hee could doe)
and unprevailing, I was disburdened of mine irones, unclothed to
my skin, set on my knees and held up fast with their hands: where
instantly setting my teeth asunder with iron Cadges, they filled my
belly full of water, even gorgeing to my throat: Then with a garter
they bound fast my throat, till the white of mine eye turned upward;
and being laid on my side, I was by two Sergeants tumbled to and
fro seven times through the roome; even till I was almost strangled:
This done, they fastned a small cord about each one of my great toes,
and hoysing me therewith to the roofe of a high loft (for the cords
runne on two rings of iron fastned above) they cut the garter, and
there I hung, with my head downward, in my tormented weight, till
all the gushing water dissolved: This done, I was let downe from the
loft, quite senslesse, lying a long time cold dead among their hands:
whereof the Governour being informed, came running up stayres, crying,
Is he dead, O fie villanes goe fetch me Wine, which they powred in
my mouth, regayning thereby a slender sparke of breath.
[A Turkish slaves charity in the bowels of compassion.] These
strangling torments ended, and I reclothed, and fast bolted againe
they left mee lying on the cold floore praysing my God, and singing
of a Psalme. The next morning the pittifull Turke visiting mee with
bread and water, brought me also secretly in his shirt sleeve, two
handfull of Rasins and figges, laying them on the floore amongst
the crawling vermine, for having no use of armes nor hands, I was
constrayned by hunger and impotency of time, to licke one up with
another with my tongue: This charity of figs the slave did once every
weeke or fortnight, or else I had long or then famished.
After which sorrowfull distresse, and inhumane usage, the eye-melting
Turke taking displeasure, fell five dayes sicke, and bedfast: but
the house Spaniards understanding his disease made him beleeve I was
a Divell, a Sorcerer, a Nigromancer, and a blasphemous miscreant,
against their Pope, their Lady, and their Church; giving him such a
distast, that for thirty dayes, he never durst looke me in the face,
being affraid of witchcraft.
All this time of his absence, one Ellinor the Cooke, an Indian
Negro woman, attended mee, for she being a Christian drudge, had
more liberty to visit mee, than the slavish Infidell: who certainly
(under God) prolonged then my languishing life, conveighing me for
foure weekes space, once a day some lesse or more nourishment, and in
[The deceitfulness of female inconstancies.] her pocket a bottle glasse
of Wine. Being no wayes semblable to the soule betraying teares of
her Crocodilean sex which the Spanish Proverbe prettily avoucheth:
las mugeres, engannan a los hombres, dellas lastimandoles, con sus
lagrimas fingidas; dellas hallagandoles, con Palabras lesongeras:
to wit, Women deceave men, some of them, grieving them with their
fayned teares, and other fawning on them with flattering words. But;
Kind Ellenor though blacke by nature borne,
Made bounty (not her beauty) to adorne
Her new chang'd Pagan life (though vail'd by night
Of Romish shades) to shine on mee more bright,
Then Sun scorched Æthiope beames; Art-glancing spangles:
Or that Ægyptian Bird, mans sight intangles
With rarest colours: for her loving sight
Though black as pitch, gave me transparent light:
Food, and stolne-food, though little, yet enough;
(The finer soile, the ebber tilles the Plough,)
Second with Wine, a mutchkin, thrice a weeke
Pack'd in her pocket, for it might not speeke:
Thus Females have extreames, and two we see,
Eyther too wicked, or too good they be;
For being good no Creature can excell them,
And being bad, no ill can paralell them:
But sure this gift, from course of nature came,
Rais'd up by Heaven to be my nursing Dame;
For she a Savage bred, yet shew more Love
And humane pitty, then desert could moove:
Wherein shee stain'd the Spaniards; they did nought
But what revenge, on slaughter'd sorrow wrought:
Thus, they who turn'd her, went themselves astray,
And shee though ignorant, trac'd the Christian way:
For which great God reward her make her Soule
As white within, as she without is foule;
And if I might, as reason knowes I would
Her love, and praise, my deeds should crowne with gold.
Now about the middle of Lent, Hazier, my former Friend, was appoynted
to attend me agayne, suspecting Ellenors compassion; but as my miseries
were multiplied, my Patience in God was redoubled: For men are rather
killed with the impatience they have in adversity, then adversity
it selfe: And of all men, that man is most [An impatient man in
trouble is a triple torture.] unhappy, to whom God in his troubles
hath not given Patience; for as the violent enemy of age is griefe,
so is the mindes impatiency, the arch-corruptor of all our troubles:
But indeede in the weakenesse of judgement, when men seeme lost by long
affliction to themselves, then they are often and ever neerest to God:
for who would have thought, that I who had seene so many sects and
varieties of Religion, dispersed over the face of the earth, could
have stucke fast to any religion at all; Travailers being reputed to
be Ubique et omnibus parati. But I will tell thee Christian, it was
the grace of God in me, and not mine: For as fire lying hid under
ashes, and touch'd will flame; so I seeming to my selfe carelesse of
Christianity, then God pricking my Conscience made tryall of my Faith:
For Christ forbid, that every Shippe which coasteth the rockey shoare,
should leave her ruines there.
This I speake not for any selfe-prayse, but to glorifie God, and to
condemne the rash censures of opinion, and with Phocion, I mistrust
my selfe, because of popular applause: Erubuit quasi peccasset
quod placuerit: But now to abbreviate a thousand Circumstances
of my Lamentable sufferings, which this Volume may not suffer to
containe: By Gods great providence, about a fortnight before Easter,
Anno 1621. there came a Spanish Cavaliere of Grenada to Malaga, whom
the Governour one night invited to Supper, being of old acquaintance:
where after Supper to intertayne Discourse, the Governour related and
[Gods great mercy in my first discovery by a stranger.] disclosed to
the stranger (God working thereby my discovery and deliverance) all
the proceedings and causes of my first apprehending, my Confessions,
Torments, starvings, their mistaking of the English Fleete, and finally
the wresting of the Inquisition upon me, and their Condemnatory
Sentence seeming also much to Lament my mis-fortunes, and praysing
my Travailes and Deserts.
Now all this while, the Gentlemans servant, a Flandrish Fleming,
standing at his Maisters backe, and adhering to all the Governours
Relations, was astonished, to heare of a sakelesse Stranger, to have
indured, and to indure such damnable Murther and Cruelty. Whereupon,
the Discourse ending and mid-night past, the stranger returned to his
Lodging; where the Fleming having bedded his Maister, and himselfe
also in another Roome, he could not sleepe all that night, and if hee
slumbered, still hee thought hee saw a man Torturing, and burning in
the fire: which hee confessed to M. Wilds when morning came.
Well, he longed for day, and it being come, and hee cloathed,
hee quietly left his Lodging, inquiring for an English Factor, and
comming to the House of M. Richard Wilds, the chiefe English Consull:
Hee told him all what hee heard the Governour tell his Master, but
could not tell my name: only Maister Wilds conjectur'd it was I,
because of the others report of a Traveller, and of his first and
former acquaintance with me there.
[These are the English Factors which first wrought my
reliefe.] Whereupon the Fleming being dismissed, he straight sent for
the other English Factors, Mr. Richard Busbitche, Mr. John Corney,
Mr. Hanger, Mr. Stanton, Mr. Cooke, Mr. Rowley, and Mr. Woodson:
where advising with them, what was best to be done for my reliefe;
they sent letters away immediatly with all post dilligence, to Sir
Walter Aston, his Majesties Ambassadour lying at Madrile: Upon which
hee mediating with the King and Counsell of Spaine, obtained a strait
warrant to command the Governour of Malaga, to deliver mee over in
the English hands: which being come, to their great disliking, I was
released on Easter-satturday before midnight, and carryed uppon Hazier
the slaves backe to Master Busbitches house, where I was carefully
attended till day light.
Meanewhile (by great fortune) there being a Squader of his Majesties
Ships lying in the Road, Sir Richard Halkins came earely a shoare,
accompanied with a strong trayne, and receaved mee from the Merchants:
Whence I was carryed on mens armes in a payre of blanquets, to [I
durst not stay a shoare for feare of the Inquisition.] the Vangard
his Majesties ship. And three dayes thereafter, I was transported to
a ship bound for England, the Fleets victualler, named the goodwill
of Harwich; by direction of the Generall Sir Robert Maunsell: where
being well placed, and charge given by Sir Richard Halkins to the ships
master William Westerdale, for his carefulnes toward the preservation
of my life, which then was brought so low & miserable. The foresaid
Merchants sent mee from shoare (besides the ships victuals) a sute
of Spanish apparrell, twelve Hennes, a barrell of Wine, a basket
full of Egges, two Roves of Figges and Rasins, two hundred Orenges
and Lemmons, eight pounds of Sugar, a number of excellent good Bread,
and two hundred Realls in Silver and Gold; besides two double Pistolls
Sir Richard Halkins sent mee as a token of his love.
The kindnesses of whom to bury in oblivion, were in me the very shame
of ingratitude, I being then a lost man and hopelesse of life, which
argued in them a greater singularitie of kindnesse and compassion. Yet
I remember [Religious Sir Richard Halkins my speciall friend.] for
all my lamenes and distraction, I intreated Sir Richard Halkins to
goe a shoare to the Governour, and demand him for my gold, my eight
Patents, my Booke of Armes, and his Majesties Letters and Seales; the
which he willingly obeyed, (being accompanied with Captaine Cave, and
Captaine Raymond) but could obtaine nothing at all, save blandements
and leying excuses.
And now on the twelfth day of our lying in the Road, our ship weighing
her Anchors, and hoysing her Sailes, wee passed through the straits
of Gibelterre, or fretum Herculeum; for this was the furthest Land
that Hercules could attayne unto; which made him erect a Pillar,
and indent thereon, nil ultra; but when Charles the fift, returned
from that untoward voyage of Algier, hee caused to set up in the same
place, Plus ultra.
Here in this Channell, I remarked a perpetuall current; flowing from
the Ocean to the Mediterrene Sea without any regresse: which indeed
is admirable the Mediterranean Seas being hembd in, and environed
with the mayne Continent of South Europe; the North and North west
coasts of Asia, and the Northerne parts of Affricke; save onely the
narrow passage of Hellespont, which from Mare Propontis bendeth his
course to Mare Euxinum: And yet the Euxine, or blacke Sea, hath no
affinity with any other moving waters, being likewise incompassed with
the mayne continent: And from it also runneth a continuall current,
through Bosphorus Thraicus, to the Mediterraneum.
[The strait of Gibelterre five leagues broad.] This narrow Sea on
Affricke, or side of Fez, consisteth betweene Cap di Sprat, and the
Promontore of Sewty, and upon the coast of Spayne, betweene Cap de
Trafolger, and the butting forehead-land of Gibelterre, or Jubile
Tauro; the passage being five leagues broad, and nine in length.
And to be briefe, upon the fifty day after my departure from Malaga, I
arrived at Datford upon Thames; whence the next morning I was carried
to Theoballs on a feather-bed, and brought to the privy Gallery,
for the Kings comming from Parke. Witnesse all the Court of England,
even from the King to the Kitchin, what a martyrd anatomy I was, at
then of me their first sight; and what small hope was either expected
of my life or recovery.
Where, when immediatly having made my most humble and grievous
complaints unto his sacred Majesty, his gracious consideration (in
the meane time) was such, for the recovery of my health, that I was
twice sent to the Bath at the charges of his Royall love, during
the space of twenty seven weekes, where by the Divine providence,
and his Princely clemency, I have recovered for the time in a large
measure, the health and strength of my body, although my left Arme,
and crushed bones be incurable.
Meane while, in the first Weeke of my Arrivall in England, I was
conveyed from Theobalds (by his Majesties direction) to Don Diego
Surmento de Gundamore, the Spanish Ambassadour, then Resident in
Holborne. [A false promise unperformed.] Where he votally undertooke,
before then the two Lord Marquesses, Hammilton and Buckingham,
(confirming it the day following to his Majesty at Greenewich) that
after a condigne tryall had from Spaine, concerning my grievances:
I should have all my money, Cloathes, Observations, Testimoniall
Patents, and his Majesties Seales restored me agayne, with a thousand
pound sterling also, (beeing modified by his Royall pleasure) of
the Governour of Malagaes meanes, for the maintayning of my Lame and
Racked body.
These promises were made the sixt of June 1621. and were to be
performed againe Michaelmasse day insuing: But this day come, hee
continued his drifts to the Prima vera; and it also arrived, he
deferred time, with new protestations, onely to Easter or Pascua:
And that Season come, he turned my Pascua to Prison: For a little
before his departure (seeing his policy too strong for mine oppressed
patience) I told him flatly in his face, from the griefe of my soule,
what he was, and what he went about; which afterward proved true:
Whereupon in the Chamber of Presence, before the Emperours Ambassadour,
and diverse Knights and Gentle-men, his Majesties servants: [A single
combat betweene a Spanish Earle and a Scottish Traveller.] he rashly
adventured the credite of Leager honour, in a single Combat against
me a retorted Plaintive: Where indeed his Fistula was contra-banded
with a fist, and for Victory, favour lent him authority; because of
my Commitment, for I lay nine Weekes incarcerate in the Marshall-Sea
at Southwarke: Whence I returned with more credite, then hee left
England with honesty; beeing both Vanquish'd and Victor. And my Muse
left to mourne for my Liberty, deplored thus.
Low levell'd lie, my lofty staring aymes,
Low droupes the flight, of my swift wing'd designe;
Low bowes that top, whose hight true merit claimes:
Low head-long fals the scope of my Engine:
Low turnes my round, harsh grow the sacred nine;
Low sinke my joyes, pale griefe, converts in care:
Low lurkes Ambition, in this breast of mine:
Low stoupe these smiles, that Fortune wont to share;
Low rest my drifts, my curious Travailes rare:
Low scude the limits, of my high-bred thought:
Low plunge my hopes, in darke deepes of despaire;
Low I o'erthrowne, with crosses low am brought:
Low live I here, in sad restraint and strife:
Low then the lower of the lowest life:
Low as I am, I'le lowly Sacrifice:
Low deep fetch'd sighes, to heaven on my low Knees.
But I remember in the aforesayd time of this my [A false aspersion
laid on me by Papists.] imprisonment, there were two Papists my
Countrey-men, who wrot to me a Letter; not like to a familiar
Epistle of Cicero: No, but they would have fastned an untruth upon
me; affirming that I was a Romane Catholicke in my heart; and that
they would justifie it, that I received the Sacrament at Rome, in
the first yeare that Paulus (Burgesius) Papa Quintus, came to his
triple Crowne: to whom in a true and Christian defence, my serious
and approbable reply was thus:
This is your Papall marke,
that as you runne astray,
You eyther would, or needes will have,
Christs Flocke to loose their way:
Can you avouch this point,
and dare you blaze your shame,
Thus Painter-like to portray'd so,
a figure for a name:
Shall Symbolizing I,
by Paragraphs defind,
In Paradoxicke passages,
Equivocate my minde.
No tincture shall ingrosse,
my Senses so delude,
To maculate my Splendant path,
with positives intrude:
In this Aversion I,
I more then Victor live,
Let Crittickes sterne aspersions spew,
this project I'le Atchieve:
My words shall Seale the truth,
my heart reserves the stamp,
Wherein my Characters of Faith,
as zealous shall incampe:
That desuetude of Soule,
I never did imbrace,
Nor shall; nor did, God is my Judge,
Such was his Heavenly grace:
No secondary meane,
shall aggrevate my hope,
The auncient Rule of Primacy,
shall be my moderne scope:
Can such occurrents stand,
as ominous in me,
When you detract and falsly wrest,
the truth in perjury:
It is your lineall straine,
Collusions to induct,
With Misticke Contradictories,
your implies you Construct:
No inference can prye,
nor strange illation proove,
In your exorbitanting braines,
my period I did moove:
This microcosmos mine,
such imputation scornes;
And turnes this grim demoniat spight,
on your Hell-forked hornes.
My name you presse to staine,
by base abortive leyes,
To circumcise my recent fame,
with sharpe edg'd Calumnies:
And labour to depresse,
that Confluence I have
From Heaven ascrib'd, confirmed by Grace,
the pledge my Spirit doth crave:
That strife can not avayle,
I so assume the right;
Your doubled darkned eies perceive,
I triumph in the light:
It's not your bloody Priests,
nor Tortures can prevaile,
I past your Purgatory ones,
the rest must you impale.
For what by dread or straine,
you can not worke nor do,
You wrest, you leye, you paint, you faine,
and add illusions too:
These Latent Forgeries,
annexed to your Faith,
As pendicles precipitate,
inhaunce your Soules to death:
With shrew'd Acerbious speech,
you Anathematize
My will Reciprocall to yours,
such guile you Moralize:
But this reflexing heart,
in a transparent flame,
Can by experience conster well,
your Churches Sire and Dame:
No Tort I introduct,
to damnifie your Sexe,
Whose empty Sculles (illuding feare)
your selves perverstly vexe:
I Organize the Truth,
you Allegate the Sense,
Disbending cominous defects,
in your absurd pretence:
Your immateriall proofes,
I wish you would detect,
My Processe craves Sedulity,
for what you Gulles Suspect.
After this, their sequell answere being mortified, and I set at liberty
by a just favour of the Privy Councell, my formalists durst never
attempt any further dispute with me, neither any passing countenance
in our rancounters: But what shall I say concerning my grievances,
Sed qui Patitur vincit: Since there is no helpe or Redresse to bee had
for wrongs past, no, neither (alasse) for any present in either meane,
or mighty falls: for when the Starres of great states, decline under
the selfe-same constellation of my sorrowes, and made the deplored
for spectacles, of the inconstancy of fortune; what shall I then in a
privat life, and publicke pilgrimage expect, but the common calamity
of this age, and the irrevocable redresse of my miseries sustayned,
for this Crowne and Kingdome of England, which shall be presently
cleared: yet would to God, I might doe, as Xerxes the Persian King
did, that when the Greekes had taken Sardis, the Metropole of Lydia,
he commanded one of his servants to stand before him everyday at
dinner, and cry aloud, saying; the Grecians have taken Sardis:
whereby he was never at quiet, till it was recovered.
[Incompatible griefe without deserved reliefe.] So would I, oppressed
I, by mighty powers; (though not a King, yet the faythfull subject
of a King) cry dayly from the heart-broken sorrow of my incompatible
injuries; O barbarous, and inhumane Malaga! when shall my soule be
revenged on thy cruell murther, and when shall mine eyes see thy
mercilesse destruction? But tush, what dreame I? now a dayes griefe
can find no reliefe, far lesse compassion, and meaner revenge,
and so farewell satisfaction, when flattering feare dare challenge
obsequiousnesse, to the alteration of any thing.
But afterward when death, Heavens fatall messenger, and enemy to
nature, had darted King James of matchlesse memory; who sometimes
(besides my soveraigne) in some respects, and for the former cause,
was a father to me; then was I forcibly (I say) constrayned to
preferre a bill of grievance to the upper house of Parliament Anno
1626. which I dayly followed 17. weekes: Well; my grievances were
heard and considered, and thereupon an order graunted me (bearing the
Lords reference and pleasure concerning my suite) unto Sir Thomas
Coventrey, Lord keeper of Englands great Seale; and through whose
office my businesse should have passed: which order was delivered
unto him, by Mr. James Maxwell Knight of the blacke Rode, and one
of his Majesties Bed-chamber, in behalfe of the Lords of the upper
house: The order thus being reserved then with the Lord-keeper for
a moneth, hee appointed me to fetch him (because of a Warrant to his
[A direction for Certificats by the Lord Keeper.] State office) the
Certificats of Sir Walter Aston, Sir Robert Maunsell, and Sir Thomas
Button, to cleare my sufferings, and the causes wherefore: which I
gladly obeyed, and brought all their three Certificates unto him:
yea, and Sir Walter Aston, (besides his hand-writ) spoke seriously
face to face with him thereanent.
Meane-while the house breaking up abruptly (because of soveraigne
disliking) their order for my suite could take none effect as then,
nor yet since, in regard it was no Session Parliament; and so my
order and reliefe lyeth suspended till some hapy time.
But now to confound the calumnious and vituperious Papists, the
miscreant and miserable Atheists, the peevish and selfe-opiniating
Puritanes, the faithles misbeleeving Mungrells of true Religion, and
of this trueth: And the very objections have beene sayd sometimes
in my face, by irreligious and disdainefull Nullifidians: who have
sayd and thought that I could neither be so constant, nor they so
cruell: I thinke it not amisse, to set downe verbally one of their
Certificats here, being all of one style, and to one purpose; and
thus it followeth.
To the Right Honorable, Sir Thomas Coventry Knight, Lord Keeper of
the great Seale of England, &c.
May it please your Honour: I have taken boldnesse to certifie your
good Lordship, of the trueth concerning the grievous sufferings of
this heavily injured man, William Lithgow: true it is, that this
bearer, being bound for Alexandria in Egypt, having with him Letters
of safe Conduct, under the Hand and Seale of his late Majesty King
James of blessed memory; ran-countred with us, and our Fleete at
Malaga: Whereof I was imployed as Vice-Admirall against the Pyrats
of Algier; where he repayring a Boord of us, and frequenting our
Company a shoare, was presently (after we had set Sayle) apprehended
by Command of the Governour and Magistrates there as a Spie; whom
they suspected, had of purpose beene left behind by our Generall,
and us of the Counsell of Warre, for the Discovery of that place,
and other adjacent parts: Whereupon beeing secretly imprisoned in the
Governours Palace; and after serious examination of our intention;
hee was without any cause done, or offered by him, most unjustly put
to the cruell Racke and tortures; besides all other his unspeakable
miseries, which for a long time he sustained thereafter: whereof I
was credibly and infallibly informed by M. Richard Wilds, to whom
he was first discovered, and by other English Factors of good note
then resident there: in my repayring diverse times to the Roade of
that towne with my Squadron of shippes, during the time of his long
imprisonment, and after his deliverance. And afterward the Governour
there beeing better informed of our loyall proceedings in those parts,
and to colour their former cruelties, and suspition had of us, hee
did wrest the Inquisition upon him, where being condemned to Death,
he had doubtlesse undergone (as I was likewise truely informed by the
afore-said Merchants) the finall Sentence of their Inquisition: if it
had not beene, for the Religious care, and speedy prevention of Sir
Walter Aston, then Leiger Ambassadour there: By whose earnest mediation
he being delivered, and afterwards sent home by direction of Sir Robert
Maunsell Generall: I now commend his grievous and lamentable cause,
unto your Lordshippes tender and Religious Consideration. Resting,
Your Lordships to Command,
to serve You:
From Fulham this tenth
of July. 1626.
Sir Thomas Button.
And now to conclude this Tragicall discourse, the Religious eye, may
perceive Gods compassionate love, foure wayes here extended. First,
his powerfull providence in my long and admirable preservation
in Prison: hunger, Vermine, and Tortures, being my comfortlesse
Companions. Secondly, the pittifull kindnesse of his All-seeing [Gods
miraculous mercy in my deliverances.] Eye, in the miraculous Wonder
of my Discovery, when the perverted policy of subtile Serpents, had
sceleratly suggested my concealement. Thirdly, his unspeakable mercy
in my unlooked-for deliverance, beeing by hopelesse me, not thought,
nor sought; and yet by his munificence was wrought. And lastly,
his gracious goodnesse, in the recovery (after some large measure)
of my health and use of body againe; all prayse and glory be to his
infinite Majesty therefore.
And finally, merit beeing masked, with the darkenesse of ingratitude,
and the morning Spring-tide of 1627. come: I set face from Court for
Scotland, suiting my discontents, with a pedestriall Progresse, and my
feete with the palludiat way; where fixing mine eyes on Edenbrugh,
and prosecuting the Tennor of a Regall Commission (which partly
beeing some where obeyed, and other-where suspended) it gave mee a
large sight of the whole Kingdome, both Continent, and Iles. The
particular Description whereof, in all parts, and of all places,
besides Ports and Rivers: I must referre to the owne Volume already
perfected, Intitulated Lithgowes Surveigh of Scotland: which this
Worke may not Containe, nor time suffer to publish till a fitter
occasion. Only Commenting a little upon some generalls. I hasten to
be at Finis. Traversing the Westerne Iles (whose inhabitants, like to
as many Bulwarkes, are abler and apter to preserve and defend, their
libertie and Precincts from incursive invasions; then any neede of
Forts or Fortified places they have, or can be required there: Such is
the [The kindnes I received from the illustrious Lord the Marques of
Hammilton.] desperate courage of these awfull Hebridians:) I arrived
(I say) at the Ile of Arrane, Anno 1628. where for certayne dayes, in
the Castle of Braidwicke, I was kindly intertayned, by the illustrious
Lord, James Marquesse of Hammilton, Earle of Arrane and Cambridge, &c.
Whom GOD may strengthen, with the liveliest Heart,
And fearelesse Minde, of all, e'vr fac'd that Art
For Bohems Queene: Heavens prosper His intent!
With Glorious Successe, and a Brave event:
That by a King beene Sped, for a Kings Sake,
To helpe a King; all Three from Him may take
Auspicuous Service, Friendship, Faithfull Love,
'Gainst whom, and his, no time can breach improove.
Let then (great God) blest Sparkes of Favour fall
On his Designes, and Theirs, our Friends, and All;
And Angels Guard Him, let Thy Mighty hand
(Partition-like) 'twixt Him, and dangers stand:
That Martiall ends, and Victory may Crowne
His happy Hopes, his Life, with Love Renowne.
This Ile of Arrane, is thirty miles long, eight in breadth, and distant
from the Maine, twenty foure miles; beeing sur-clouded with Goatfield
Hill: which with wide-eyes, over-looketh our Westerne Continent, and
the Northerne Countrey of Ireland: bringing also to sight in a cleare
Summers day, the Ile of Manne, and the higher Coast of Cumberland:
A larger prospect no Mountaine in the World can show, poynting out
three Kingdomes at one sight: Neither any like Ile or braver Gentry,
for good Archers, and hill-hovering Hunters. Having agayne re-shoared
the Maine, I coasted Galloway even to the Mould that butteth into
the Sea, with a large Promontore, being the South-most part of the
Kingdome. And thence footing all that large Countrey to Dumfries, and
so to Carlile: I found heere in Galloway in diverse Rode-way Innes,
as good Cheare, Hospitality, and Serviceable attendance, as though
I had beene ingrafted in Lombardy or Naples.
[The nobility and commodities of Galloway excell in goodnesse.] The
Wooll of which Countrey, is nothing inferiour to that in Biscai of
Spaine: providing they had skill, to fine, Spin, Weave, and labour it
as they should. Nay, the Calabrian silke, had never a better luster,
and softer gripe, then I have seene and touched this growing wooll
there on Sheepes backes: the Mutton whereof excelleth in sweetnesse. So
this Country aboundeth in Bestiall, especially in little Horses,
which for mettall and Riding, may rather be tearmed bastard Barbs,
then Gallowedian Nagges.
Likewise their Nobility and Gentry are as courteous, and every way
generously disposed, as eyther discretion would wish, and honour
Command: that (Cunningham being excepted, which may bee called the
Accademy of Religion, for a sanctified Clergy, and a godly people)
certainly Galloway is become more civill of late, then any Maritine
Country, bordering with the Westerne Sea. But now to observe my former
Summary condition, the length of the Kingdome lyeth South and North:
That is, betweene Dungsby head in Cathnes, and the afore-sayde Mould
of Galloway; beeing distant per rectam lineam, which my weary feet
troad over from poynt to poynt (the way of Lochreall, Carrick, Kyle,
Aire, Glasgow, Stirveling, St. Johns Towne, Stormount, the Blair of
Atholl, the Bra of Mar, Badeynoh, Innernes, Rosse, Sutherland, and so
to the North Promontore of Cathnes) extending to three hundred twenty
miles: which I reckon to be foure hundred and fifty English miles:
Confounding hereby the ignorant presumption of blind Cosmographers,
who [Scotland is 120. miles longer than England.] in their Mappes
make England longer than Scotland; when contrariwise Scotland out
strippeth the other in length, a hundred and twenty miles. The breadth
whereof I grant is narrower than England; yet extending betweene the
extremities of both Coasts in divers parts to threescore, fourscore,
and a hundred of our miles: But because of the Sea ingulfing the
Land, and cutting it in so many Angles, making great Lakes, Bayes,
and dangerous Firths, on both sides of the Kingdome, the true breadth
thereof can not justly be conjectured, nor soundly set downe.
Our chiefest fresh water Lakes are these, Lochlomond, contayning
twenty foure Iles, and in length as many miles: divers whereof are
inriched with Woods, Deere, and other Bestiall: The large and long
Lake of Loch-Tay, in Atholl, the Mother and Godmother of Headstrong
Tay, the greatest River in the Kingdome: And Lochnes, in the higher
parts of Murray, the River whereof (that graceth the pleasant and
commodious situation of Innernes) no frost can freize: The propriety
of which water will quickly melt and dissolve any hard congealed
lumps of frozen Ice, be it on Man or Beast, stone or timber.
The chiefest Rivers are Clyde, Tay, Tweed, Forth, Dee, Spay, Nith,
Nesse, and Dingwells flood-ingorging Lake, that confirmeth Porta
salutis; being all of them, where they returne their tributs to
their father Ocean portable; and as it were resting places for
turmoyled seas and ships: And the principall Townes are Edenbrugh,
Perth, Glasgow, Dundie, Abirdene, St. Andrewes, Aire, Stirveling,
Lithgow, Dumfries, Innernes, Elgin, Minros, Jedbrugh, Hadington,
Leith, &c. and for antiquity, old Lanerk, &c.
So the most delicious soiles of the Kingdome are these following:
first, the bounds of Clyde, or Cliddisdale, betweene Lanerk and
Dunbertan, distanced twenty sixe miles; and thence downeward to Rossay
that kisseth the devulgements of the River: the beginning whereof is
at Arick stone sixteene miles above Lanerk, whose course contendeth
for threescore miles: All which, being the best mixed Countrey for
Cornes, Meeds, Pastorage, Woods, Parks, Orchards, Castles, Pallaces,
divers kinds of Coale, and earth-fewell, that our included Albion
[Cliddisdale is the Paradice of Scotland.] produceth: And may justly
be surnamed the Paradice of Scotland: Besides, it is adorned on both
borders along, with the greatest Peeres, and Nobility in the Kingdome:
The Duke of Lennox, the Marques of Hammilton, the Earle of Angus, the
Earle of Argyle, and the Earles of Glencairne, Wigton, and Abircorne.
And for Lord Barons, Semple, Rosse, Blantyre, and Dalliell:
The chiefest Gentry whereof are the Knights and Lairds of Luce,
Skellmurelie, Blakhall, Greenock, Newwark, Houston, Pook-maxwell,
Sir George Elpingston of Blythswood, Minto, Cambusnethen, Calderwood,
the two Knights of Lieye, and Castel-hill, Sir James Lokharts elder &
yonger, Lamington, Westraw, his Majesties Gentleman Sewer, Blakwood,
Cobinton, Stanebyres, and Corhous, &c. All which in each degree,
as they illuminat the soyle with grandure, so the soyle reflecteth
on them againe with beauty, bounty, and riches.
But least I partiall prove, because my breath
First sprung from Lanerk, so my christian faith;
Where thence (O natall place) my soule did coyle,
Blood, sprit, and sense, flesh, birth, life, love, and soyle;
I'le leave Clydes fragrant fields, resplendant banks,
Bedeckt with Silvans, stately beauteous ranks
Of Pandedalian sparks; which lend the sight
Of variable colours, best Natures light;
And close these silver shades, that dazeling bloome
Mongst thickest Groaves, with many brae-fac'd broome;
Strict in the records of eternall fame,
For sight, for gaine, for birth, for noble name.
And now the second soyle for pleasure, is the platformd [Carse
and Murray two pleasant Soyles.] Carse of Gowry, twelve miles long
(Wheat, Rye, Cornes, Fruit yards, being its onely commodity) which
I may tearme for its levelld face, to be the Garden of Angus; yea,
the Diamond-plot of Tay, or rather the youngest Sister of matchlesse
Piemont: The Inhabitants being onely defective in affablenesse,
and communicating courtesies of naturall things, whence sprung this
Proverbe, The kearlles of the Carse.
The third, and beautifull soyle, is the delectable planure of Murray,
thirty miles long, and sixe in breadth: whose comely grounds,
inriched with Cornes, Plantings, Pastorage, stately dwellings,
overfaced with a generous Octavian Gentrye, and topped with a Noble
Earle, its chiefest Patrone; it may be surstyled, a second Lombardy,
or pleasant Meaddow of the North.
Neither may I (abandoning eye-pleasing grounds) seclude here that
sudaick bottome, reaching thirty miles twixt Perth and Minros;
involving the halfe of Angus, within a fruitfull, populous, and
nobilitat planure, the heart whereof saluting Glames, kisseth Cowper:
So likewise, as thrice divided Louthiane, is a girnell of graine,
for forrane Nations; and Fiffe twixt Carraill and Largo, the Ceren
trenches of a Royall Camp, the incircling coast a nest of Corporations;
and Meandring Forth from tip-toed Snadoun, the prospicuous mirrour
for matchlesse Majesty: Even so is melting Tweed, and weeping Tiviot,
the Ægyptian Strands, that irriguat the fertile fields, which imbolster
both bosomes, sending their bordering breath of dayly necessaries to
strengthen the life of Barwick.
[The Nobility and Gentry of Scotland, are the best house-keepers, and
generous Gentlemen in the World.] Now as for the Nobility and Gentry
of the Kingdome; certainely, as they are generous, manly, and full
of courage; so are they courteous, discreet, learned Schollers, well
read in best Histories, delicatly linguishd, the most part of them,
being brought up in France or Italy: That for a generall compleat
worthinesse, I never found their matches amongst the best people of
forrane Nations: being also good house-keepers, affable to strangers,
and full of Hospitality.
And in a word the Seas of Scotland, and the Iles abound plentifully
in all kind of Fishes, the Rivers are ingorged with Salmond, the
high-landish mountaines overcled with Firre-trees, infinite Deere,
and all sorts of other Bestiall, the Valleyes full of Pasture,
and Wild fowle; the low layd Playnes inriched with beds of grayne;
Justice all where administred, Lawes obeyed, malefactors punished,
Oppressors curbed, the Clergy religious, the people sincere Professors,
and the Country peaceable to all men.
The chiefest commodities whereof, transported beyond sea, are these,
Wheat, Cornes, Hides, Skins, Tallow, Yearn, Linnen, Salt, Coale,
Herrings, Salmond, Wooll, Keilling, Ling, Turbet and Seaths. And last,
and worst, all the Gold of the Kingdome, is daily Transported away with
superfluous posting for Court. Whence they never returne any thing,
save spend all, End all, then farewell Fortune: So that numbers of
our Nobility and Gentry now, become with idle projects, downe-drawers
of destruction, upon their owne neckes, their children, and their
estates: and posting Postilions by dissolute courses, to [Prodigall
and superfluous posting from Scotland to Court.] inrich Strangers,
leave themselves deservingly desolate, of Lands, Meanes, and Honesty
for ever. Doing even with their former Vertue, long continuance, and
memory of their noble Ancestors, as M. Knoxe did with our glorious
Churches of Abbocies, and Monasteries (which were the greatest beauty
of the Kingdome,) knocking all down to desolation; leaving nought
to be seene of admirable Edifices, but like to the Ruines of Troy,
Tyrus, and Thebes, lumpes of Wals, and heapes of stones.
So do our ignoble Gallants (though nobly borne) swallow up the honour
of their famous Predecessours, with posting foolery, boy-winding
Hornes, cormandizing Gluttony, Lust, and vaine Apparrell; making a
Transmigration of perpetuity to their present Belly, and Backe. O
lashivious ends: which I have condignely sisted, in my last Worke
Intitulated Scotlands welcome to King Charles: with all the abuses
and grievances of the whole Kingdome besides.
But now leaving Prodigalls to their Purgatoriall Postings, I come to
Trace through Rosse, Sutherland, and Cathnes: Soiles so abundant in all
things, fit to illustrate greatnesse, Resplendour Gentry, and succour
Commons; that their fertile goodnesse far exceeded my expectation, and
the affability of the better sort my deservings: beeing all of them the
best, and most bountifull Christmasse-keepers (the Greekes excepted)
that ever I saw in the Christian World: Whose continuall incorporate
Feastings one with another, beginning at Saint Andrewes day, never
end til Shrovetide: which Ravished me, to behold, such great and
daily cheare, familiar fellow-ship, and joviall chearefulnesse; that
me thought the whole Winter there, seemed to me, but the Jubilee of
one day. And now beeing arrived at Maii, to imbarke for Orknay, sight,
[A dutifull remembrance of two Noble persons.] time, and duty, command
me to celebrate these following Lines, to gratifie the kindnesse of
that noble Lord, George Earle of Cathnes, with his Honorable Cousing,
and first Accadent of his House, the Right worshipful Sir William
Sinclair of Catboll Knight, Laird of Maii.
Sir! sighting now thy Selfe, and Pallace Faire,
I find a novelty, and that most rare,
The time though cold and stormy, sharper Sun,
And far to Summer, scarce the Spring begun;
Yet with good lucke, in Februar, Saturnes prey
Have I not sought, and found out Fruitfull May,
Flank'd with the Marine Coast, prospective stands,
Right opposite to the Orcade Iles and Lands:
Where I for floures, ingorg'd strong grapes of Spaine,
And liquor'd French, both Red and white amaine:
Which Pallace doth containe, two foure-squar'd Courts,
Graft with brave Works, where th' Art-drawne pensile sports
On Hals, high Chambers, Galleries, office Bowres,
Cells, Roomes, and Turrets, Plat-formes, stately Towres:
Where greene-fac'd gardens, set at Floraes feet,
Make Natures beauty, quicke Appelles greet:
All which surveigh'd, at last the mid-most gate
Design'd to me, the Armes of that great state,
The Earles of Cathnes; to whose praise inbag'd,
My Muse must mount, and here's my pen incadg'd:
First then their Armes, a Crosse, did me produce
Limbd like a Scallet, trac'd with fleur du Luce;
The Lyon, red, and rag'd, two times divided
From coyne to coyne, as Heraulds have decyded:
The third joynd Staunce denotes to me a Galley,
That on their sea-rapt foes, dare make assailley:
The fourth a gallant Ship, pust with taunt saile
Gainst them, their Ocean dare, or Coast assaile:
On whose bent Creist, a Pelican doth sit
An Embleme, for like love, drawne wondrous fit:
Who as shee feeds her young, with her heart blood
Denotes these Lords, to theirs, like kind, like good:
Whose best Supporters, guard both Sea, and Land,
Two sterne drawne Griffons, in their strength to stand:
Their Dictum beares this verdict, for Heavens Ode
Ascribd this clause; commit thy worke to God:
O sacred Motto! Bishop Sinclairs straine,
Who turnd Fiffes Lord, on Scotlands foes agayne:
Loe! here's the Armes of Cathnes, here's the Stock!
On which branch'd-boughes relye, as on a Rocke.
But further in, I found like Armes more patent;
To kind Sir William, and his line as latent;
The Primier Accade, of that noble race
Who for his vertue, may reclayme the place;
Whose Armes, with tongue and buckle, now they make
Fast crosse, signe ty'd, for a faire Lesslyes sake.
The Lyon hunts o're Land, the Ship, the Sea,
The ragged Crosse can scale high walles wee see;
The wing-layd Galley, with her factious oares
Both Havens and Floods command, and circling shoares:
The feathred Griffon flees, O grim-limbd beast!
That winging Sea and Land, upholds this Creist:
But for the Pelicans, life-sprung kind Story,
[Sir William Sinclairs Motto.] Makes honour sing, Virtute,
et Amore.
Nay, not by blood, as she her selfe can do,
But by her paterne, feeding younglings too;
For which this Patrones Crescent stands so stay,
That neither Spight, nor Tempest, can shake Maii:
Whose Cutchions cleave so fast, to top, and side,
Portends to mee, his Armes shall ever bide.
So Murckles Armes are so, except the Rose
Spred on the Crosse, which Bothwels Armes disclose;
Whose Uterine blood he is, and present Brother
To Cathnes Lord; all three sprung from one Mother.
Bothwels prime Heretrix, plight to Hepburnes Race,
From whom Religious Murckles Rose I trace,
This Countries instant Shrieve: whose Vertue rais'd
His honoured worth, his godly life more prais'd.
But now to rouze their Rootes, and how they Sprung,
See how Antiquity, Times triumph Sung.
This Scallet, worth them blanch'd, for endeavour
And Service done, to Englands Conquerour;
With whom from France, they first to Britaine came,
Sprung from a Towne St. Claire, now turn'd their name.
Whose Predecessours, by their Val'rous hand,
Wonne endlesse Fame, twice in the Holy Land:
Where in that Christian Warre, their blood beene lost,
They loath'd of Gaule, and sought our Albion Coast.
Themselves to Scotland came, in Cammoires Raigne
With good Queene Margret, and her English traine.
The Ship from Orknay Sayl'd, now rul'd by Charles,
Whereof they Sinclairs, long time, had beene Earles.
Whose Lord then William, was by Scotlands King,
(Call'd Robert Second, First, whence Stewarts spring)
Sent with his second Sonne, to France, cross'd James
Who eighteene yeares, liv'd Captivate at Thames.
This Prisner last turn'd King, call'd James the First,
Who Sinclairs Credit, kept in Honours thirst:
The Galley was the Badge of Cathnes Lords,
As Malcome Cammoirs raigne at length Records:
Which was to Magnus given, for Service done,
Against Mackbaith, usurper of his Crowne.
The Lyon came, by an Heretrix to passe,
By Marriage; whose Sire, was surnam'd Dowglas.
Where after him, the Sinclair now Record,
Was Shirefe of Dumfreis, and Nidsdales Lord:
Whose wife was Neece, to good King James the Third;
Who for exchange, 'twixt Wicke and Southerne Nidde
Did Lands incambiat: whence this Cathnes Soile
Stands fast for them, the rest, their Friends recoile.
Then Circle-bounded Cathnes, Sinclairs ground,
Which Pentland Firth invirones, Orknayes sound;
Whose top is Dunkanes Bay, the Roote the Ord;
Long may it long, stand fast for their true Lord:
And as long too, Heavens grant what I require,
The Race of Maii, may in that Stocke aspire;
Till my Age may last, Times glasse be runne,
For Earths last darke Ecclipse, of no more Sunne.
Forsaking Cathnes, I imbraced the trembling Surges (at Dungsby)
of strugling Neptune, which ingorgeth Pentland or Pitland Firth
with nine contrarious Tides: each Tide over-thwarting another with
repugnant courses, have such violent streames, and combustious waves,
that if these dangerous Births be not rightly taken in passing over,
the Passengers shall quickely loose sight of life and land for ever:
yea, and one of these tides so forcible, at the backe of Stromaii,
that it will carry any Vessell backward, in despight of the winds,
the length of its rapinous current.
[A dangerous place in Pentland Firth.] This dreadfull Firth is
in breadth betweene the Continent of Cathnes, and the Ile of South
Rannald-shaw in Orknay twelve miles: And I denote this credibly, in a
part of the North-west end of this Gulfe, there is a certaine place of
sea, where these destracted tydes make their rancountering Randevouze,
that whirleth ever about: cutting in the middle circle a devalling
hole, with which if either Ship or Boat shall happen to encroach,
they must quickly either throw over some thing into it, as a Barrell,
a piece of timber, and such like, or that fatall Euripus shall then
suddenly become their swallowing Sepulcher. A custome which these
bordering Cathenians and Orcadians have ever heretofore observed.
Arriv'd at South Rannaldshaw an Ile of five miles long, and thwarting
the Ile of Burray, I sighted Kirkwall, the Metropole of Pomonia, the
mayne Land of Orknay, and the onely Mistresse of all the circumjacent
Iles being thirty in number. The chiefest whereof (besides this
tract of ground, in length twenty sixe, and broad five, sixe and
seven miles) are the Iles of Sanda, Westra, and Stronza: Kirkwall it
selfe is adorned with the stately and magnifick Church of St. Magnus
built by the Danes, whose Signiory with the Iles lately it was; but
indeed for the time present, more beautified with the godly life of
a most venerable and religious Bishop Mr. George Grahame: whom now I
may tearme (Soveraignity excepted) to be the Father of the Countries
government, then an Ecclesiasticke Prelat: The Inhabitants being left
void of a Governour, or solid Patrone, are just become like to a broken
battell, a scattered people without a head: having but a Burges Shreive
to administer Justice, and he too an Aliene to them, and a Resider in
Edenburgh: So that in most differences, and questions of importance,
the Plaintives are inforced to implore the Bishop for their Judge,
and hee, the adverse Party for redresse.
[Zetland mightily impoverished by corrupt governement.] But the more
remote parts of this auncient little Kingdome, as Zetland, and the
adjacent Iles there; have found such a sting of deoccular government
within these few yeares; that these once happy Iles, which long agoe
my feet traded over, are Metamorphosed in the Anatomy of succourlesse
oppression, and the felicity of the Inhabitants, reinvolved within
the closet of a Cittadinean cluster.
But now referring the whole particulars, and dividuall descriptions
of these Septentrion Iles, the mayne Continent, and the Gigantick
Hebridian Iles, to my aforesayd worke to be published, intitulated
Lithgows surveigh of Scotland, I send this generall verdict to
the World:
Now having seene most part of thy selfe glore
Great Kingdomes, Ilands, stately Courts, rich Townes,
Most gorgeous showes, pomp-glory deckt renownes,
Hearbagious fields, the Pelage-beating shoare
Propitious Princes, Prelats, potent Crownes:
Smoake shadow'd times, curst Churles, Misers, Clownes.
Impregnate Forts, devalling floods, and more
Earth-gazing heights, Vayle-curling Plaines in store:
Court-rising honours, throwne on envies frownes;
Worme-vestur'd workes, Enamild Arts, wits lore:
Masse-marbled Mansions, Mineralls, coynd Ore,
State-superficiall showes, swift-glyding Moones:
I loath thy sight, pale streames, staine wattry eyne,
Whose glorious shades evanish, no more seene.
And now to conclude, as a Painter, may spoyle a Picture, but not
the face; so may some Stoicall Reader misconster and misconceave
some parts of this eye-set History, though not able to marre the
trueth of it: yet howsoever, here is the just relation of nineteene
yeares travells, perfited in three deare-bought voyages: The generall
computation of which dimmensious spaces, in my goings, traversings,
and returnings, through Kingdomes, Continents, and Ilands, which my
paynefull feet traced over (besides my passages of Seas and Rivers)
amounteth to thirty six thousand and odde miles, which draweth neare
to twice the circumference of the whole Earth. And so farewell.
FINIS.
NOTES
[1] Somers Tracts, Vol. IV. p. 535, Ed. 1810.
[2] Ibid.
[3] Lithgow himself says nine weeks, but in the 'Supplication of Aquila
Wykes,' Keeper of the Marshalsea (Calendar of State Papers, Domestic,
Vol. CLIII, No. 26), dated October 9th, 1623, Lithgow is mentioned as
'committed close prisoner 2 Febr. 1622' and still remaining in custody.
[4] He had already published in 1614 a short account of his travels,
and of this a second impression was printed in 1616. Both these
editions are extremely rare.
[5] Calendar of State Papers, Domestic, Vol. CCXXIX. No. 42.
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